Nomad issue #22

DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE 

ISSUE 22| SEPTEMBER | FREE COPY 

BY THE SEASHORE 

BEAUTIFUL, SWEET, UNADULTERATED MALINDI 

FROM PRAGUE 

WITH LOVE 

HOME OF 

AFRICAN ART 

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NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 1

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EDITOR’S NOTE 

NAIROBI’S REVENGE 

I 

like to joke that my favourite thing to do in Nairobi is to get out of Nairobi. This 

should however not be mistaken for a dislike for the capital, though, because I’ve 

come to realize that the best thing about going to our beautiful coastal beaches 

or heading north to the mountains is that I get to come back to Nairobi. Oh my 

life is a paradox. 

Recently, I’ve been particularly vocal about my disdain for Nairobi. I’ve mentioned how, 

after living here for 10 years, I’ve simply exhausted the list of things that I could possibly 

do in this city. Besides going out to restaurants, of which there are some excellent ones 

continuously cropping up, what else is left to do for a restless soul that has ticked everything 

off her list tenfold? 

In a bout of karma…wait, does it come in bouts? And when do you know when it is in 

fact karma instead of just a series of unfortunate coincidences? Being a Christian, I don’t 

exactly prescribe to that brand of spirituality, but the writer in me does quite like how that 

word rolls off the tongue. Anyway, in a series of unfortunate events, Nairobi decided that it 

had had enough and decided to exert its revenge. It struck at the right time too, when I had 

booked a flight out of the country and was excited about that for weeks. 

On the said day, I missed my flight because the road we decided to take had been 

blocked off for the day, and when we finally got out of that situation, it sent its agents, the 

police, to derail my driver for a further 30 minutes due to a minor traffic violation. By the 

time I got to the airport, the check-in counter had been shut off despite there still being some 

30 minutes to flight time; I was simply too late. Determined not to spend another night in 

Nairobi, I booked the evening flight, and after hanging around the airport all day, got to 

the immigration desk only to be turned back due to an issue with my passport which I had 

used only one week prior. 

I then had to go back to my apartment and spend another night in Nairobi. It had won 

the fight, and just for the record, just so we’re back on good terms going forward, my dear 

Nairobi, I’m sorry for all the bad things I’ve said about you. Most of them, at least. 

wattaonthego 

Wendy Watta 

NOMAD ISSUE 21 · SEP/OCT 2019 · PUBLISHED BY WEBSIMBA LIMITED, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 

MANAGING DIRECTOR MIKUL SHAH EDITOR WENDY WATTA DESIGN BRIAN SIAMBI SALES VANESSA WANJIKU DIGITAL FAITH KANJA 

CONTRIBUTORS SAMANTHA DU TOIT, KARI MUTU, DIANE MCLEISH, SABINA VIVALDI, FAITH KANJA, MAURICE SCHUTGENS, ERIKA KOSS 

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS BRIAN SIAMBI, JAMILA HASSAN EL-JABRY, TREVOR MAINGI, RAHIM MANDVIWALLA 

MARKETING & OPERATIONS DANIEL MUTHIANI, JANE NAITORE 

SALES ENQUIRIES CALL NOMAD 0711 22 22 22 EMAIL EDITOR@NOMADMAGAZINE.CO 

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ON THE COVER 

MALINDI PIER 

PHOTOGRAPHED BY TREVOR MAINGI 

CONTENTS 

26 

MALINDI, MAMMA MIA! 

Having spent a glorious 

week exploring its beaches, 

sampling local and Italian 

food, following strangers on 

impromptu adventures and 

diving head-first into an array 

of excursions, Wendy Watta 

makes a case for why you 

should visit Malindi. 


48 

24 

In this issue 

10. TOP SHOTS 

This month’s featured photographers 

capture a boy swimming against the tide 

near Fort Jesus, Mombasa, and more. 

14. NEWS 

New ground broken in an effort to save 

the northern white rhinos while Rwanda's 

most luxurious hotel launches in mountain 

gorilla territory. 

16. WHATS ON 

From Afri-love Fest to the Zanzibar Beach 

& Watersports Festival, find a roundup of 

must-attend events this season. 

24. GLOBETROTTERS 

Muthoni Maingi talks about her trips 

across the globe, talking to strangers in 

pubs and accepting invitations that no 

sensible person would. 

52. WHAT I PACK FOR MY TRAVELS 

Our Head of Sales, Vanessa Wanjiku, 

gives us a peek inside her travel bag. 

FEATURES 

46. ON THE RADAR: EBURU FOREST 

Eburu Forest is a treasure of the Great Rift 

Valley and that is why the Rhino Ark 

Charitable Trust stepped in and 

is engaged in a major long-term 

conservation exercise to preserve and 

sustainably manage it, writes Diane 

McLeish 

44 

36. MALINDI DREAM 

From Malindi Dream Garden and Sandies 

Tropical Village to Diamonds Dream of 

Africa, discover some of the places where 

we stayed during our one week trip to 

Malindi. 

38. WHERE TO STAY 

Suggestions of beautiful properties in 

Malindi to book on your next trip. 

40. COZY POINT HOMES 

Immerse yourself in the local vibe in 

Malindi in a charming home setting where 

you never have to worry about what’s for 

dinner! 

REGULARS 

20. BIRTHDAYS ARE FOR WILD CAMPING 

It seemed a slightly strange request from 

their soon-to-be eight-year-old; to take 

her ‘proper’ camping for her birthday 

when she had spent most of her life 

growing up in a tent, writes Samantha du 

Toit. However, missing ‘proper’ camping 

themselves, the family happily obliged. 

22. FROM PRAGUE WITH LOVE 

Kari Mutu spends time in the capital city 

of the Czech Republic, walking around 

Prague’s old town which is an immersion 

into history, varied architecture, cultural 

attractions, beer and food...lots of food. 

44. LUANDA: A CITY ON THE MOVE 

Maurice Schutgens heads to Angola and 

with only a day to spare, explores what 

he describes as ‘one of Africa’s greatest 

mysteries’. 

48. HOME IS WHERE THE ART IS 

With an array of African art collected 

from over 20 African countries, coupled 

with its unique architecture inspired by 

the traditional mud houses across the 

continent, African Heritage House is 

indeed an art lover’s paradise. 



WHICH PLACE IN THE WORLD FEELS MOST LIKE HOME RIGHT NOW? 

KARI MUTU 

Kenyan Traveler, Page - 22 

Although I live in Nairobi, the place that feels 

most like home right now is Nanyuki town. 

There are still wide open spaces and natural 

landscapes not far away so you can easily 

escape from urban noise, traffic and general 

stress. Beautiful Mt Kenya is always hovering 

in the background. I love the peaceful 

countryside views of farms, livestock grazing 

in the fields and people working the land, 

and yet knowing that modern conveniences 

are nearby. Plus, it’s just a few hours away 

from Nairobi. 

DIANE MCLEISH 

Conservation, page - 46 

Living on a farm on the shores of Lake 

Naivasha definitely feels like home. Being 

retired, we moved here three years ago 

and the experience of raising chickens, 

cultivating and eating from the vegetable 

garden, harvesting rainwater, heating water 

only by solar power and supporting local 

businesses has been invigorating. We also 

have the pleasure of walking the dogs to 

the lakeshore daily where we can enjoy 

sundowners, watch glorious sunsets and the 

abundant wildlife. 

MAURICE SCHUTGENS 

Dispatch, page - 44 

Africa has always been my ‘home’, whether 

it was the rural eastern Uganda village where 

I grew up, the tea estates of Malawi where I 

spent my transformative teenage years or the 

metropolitan city of Cape Town where I did 

my masters degree in Conservation Biology. 

Now, having been based in Nanyuki for 

the last 5 years I’d have to say nothing has 

changed! I consider this whole continent my 

home and I hope to see much more of it in 

future. 

SAROVA HOTELS & RESORTS REFURBISHES 

THE LIDO LOUNGE & RESTAURANT 

The largest indigenous collection of hotels in East Africa, Sarova 

Hotels & Resorts, has officially opened the Lido Lounge and 

Restaurant within the Sarova Whitesands Beach Resort & Spa. 

The newly refurbished restaurant now exemplifies an elegant and 

stylish seaside restaurant that will offer a unique dining experience 

coupled with magnificent panoramic views of the Indian Ocean. 

The renovation is part of the ongoing full refurbishment of Sarova 

Whitesands Beach Resort & Spa that started three years ago. 

There is a large iconic bar in cool white terrazzo with light slots 

that goes from the deck into the water, allowing for a swim up bar 

seating. Rustic and rugged tropical textures are at play at the openair 

lounge. 

Lido certainly lives up to its name. The world class cuisine 

available combined with friendly service makes the experience in 

food and beverage exceptional at every encounter. The lounge is 

a chill out spot where guests can listen to contemporary music. It 

will offer a vast array of seafood and feature the catch of the day 

delivered by the local fishermen from the nearby reefs. The open 

kitchen also provides guests the fun theatrics of watching their food 

being prepared. 



TOP SHOTS 

JAMILA HASSAN EL-JABRY 

Instagram: @jammy.eljabry 

This photo was taken near Fort Jesus. The 

boy was swimming against the tide and 

was really enjoying himself, so I decided 

to capture the moment. I used a Canon 5D 

Mark III with a 24 -105 mm lens, and my 

settings were F/8, 1/400 and ISO 100. 

TIPS: Always capture a moment that tells 

a story. Framing and composition are also 

very important to take into consideration. 


RAHIM MANDVIWALLA 

Instagram: @r.m_wild 

I used a Canon 5D Mark III with a 

Sigma 150-600mm lens set to shutter 

speed 1/320, F/6.3and ISO 200. 

The image is titled Brotherly Love. These 

brothers are part of the Kingfisher pride 

at Nairobi National Park and may be 

the future kings there. This shot was 

captured as they rested under a tree in 

the afternoon.

TOP SHOTS 


WHAT’S ON 

AFRICA HOTEL INVESTMENT 

FORUM (AHIF) 2019 

This annual event brings together the who’s 

who of the hotel investment community 

that drive investment into tourism projects, 

infrastructure and hotel development across 

Africa. AHIF has proven to be Africa’s annual 

meeting place for the region’s most senior 

hotel investors, developers, operators and 

advisors. It is the conference that connects 

business leaders from international and 

local markets to do deals across the region. 

Meet the investors panel who will share the 

main hurdles and opportunities available 

in the region. Themed Unlocking Tourism 

Opportunities across the continent, this event 

takes place from 23rd to 25th September 

2019 at Sheraton Addis in Ethiopia. 

www.AHIF.com 

THE ZANZIBAR BEACH & 

WATERSPORTS FESTIVAL 

This annual event, now in its 9th edition, is a celebration of beach 

life, culture and music, spanning three days. Taking place from 6th 

to 9th December, the main location this year will be in Jambiani on 

Mfumbwi beach, on the South-East Coast of Zanzibar. The festival 

comprises different sports including goat racing, dhow racing , 

'nage' for women, a beach soccer tournament, beach run, kayak 

racing, kite surfing, touch rugby, tug of war, a paintball fight, Maasai 

high jump, beach volleyball tournament, music from famous local and 

international musicians and more. For more information please visit 

www.zanzibarfestival.com 

AFRI-LOVE FEST 

Fun, interactive and fresh, Afri-love Fest returns! Save the date 

for another day of creative play on Sunday 3rd November, in 

Nairobi. There will be plenty to enjoy for people of all ages. 

Try your hand at something new with a variety of creative 

workshops, talks and interactive experiences. Discover some of 

East Africa's most innovative makers and designers spanning 

home, fashion, beauty and more! Relax with friends, food and 

drink in the beautiful Ikigai Westlands garden. Find out more at 

www.afri-love.com/fest. 



NEWS 

NEW GROUND BROKEN IN EFFORT 

TO SAVE THE NORTHERN WHITE 

RHINOS 

Great news as scientists carry out a successful egg 

harvest from Ol Pejeta’s Najin and Fatu, the only two 

female northern white rhinos left in the world. This 

breaks new ground in the effort to save the species. On 

22nd August 2019, a team of veterinarians successfully 

harvested eggs from the two females — a procedure 

that has never been attempted in northern white rhinos 

before. The scientists artificially inseminated the eggs 

with frozen sperm from a northern white rhino bull. By 

September 11, two embryos from Fatu were successfully 

matured and in the near future the embryo will be 

transferred to a southern white rhino surrogate mother. 

The successful procedure was a joint effort by the 

Leibniz Institute for Zoo and Wildlife Research (Leibniz- 

IZW) Berlin, Avantea, Dvůr Králové Zoo, Ol Pejeta 

Conservancy and the Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS). 

RWANDA’S MOST LUXURIOUS 

HOTEL LAUNCHES IN MOUNTAIN 

GORILLA TERRITORY 

Rwanda launched one of its most luxurious hotels 

in Kinigi sector, Musanze district in Northern 

Province, right at the habitat of the rare mountain 

gorillas. The facility, Singita Kwitonda Lodge 

and Kataza House, is set within a landscape of 

wetlands and lush meadows with magnificent 

views of the Sabyinyo, Gahinga and Muhabura 

volcanoes. Designed around local materials, the 

buildings have been crafted using volcanic rock, 

river stone, handmade ceramic tiles and oven-red 

clay bricks made by surrounding communities. The 

interiors have been carefully curated with a focus 

on handcrafted details, including woven panels, 

tiles and clay pots. Catering for the unique climate 

and conditions in Rwanda’s northwest, all the suites 

feature indoor and outdoor fireplaces and outdoor 

heated plunge pools. The cost of a stay ranges 

from $1750 per night to $8000. 

KURIFTU RESORTS & SPA OPEN 

THE BIGGEST WATER PARK IN EAST 

AFRICA 

Set in the lake town of Bishoftu in Ethiopia, the park 

which has water playgrounds, swimming pools, about 

123 shops and three banks is the first of its kind in East 

Africa. Opened on 31st August, the park has 12 facilities 

designated for different recreational activities such as two 

water houses, a boomerang slide, a spiral slide, a wave 

pool and a performance center. There is a designated 

area that will host concerts and events complete with a 

lit-up stage, and it has beach-like features including the 

sand. Kuriftu currently has five operational resorts and 

hotels in Bishoftu, Bahir Dar, Afar, Langano and Adama, 

and in Moucha Island, Djibouti. 


SILVERPALM SPA & RESORT 

Bofa Road, Kilifi P.O. Box 41247-80100, 

Mombasa | Tel: +254-780745837 /+254 707745837 

Email: info@silverpalmkilifi.co.ke | www.silverpalmkilifi.com 


SUSTAINABLE TRAVEL 

WILL TRAVEL 

FOR COFFEE 

You may be an avid lover of coffee, but have you ever considered going on a coffee 

tour to find out more about how it ends up in your cup at a cafe, or how farmers are 

learning to sustain their business through coffee tourism? Text: Erika Koss 

In 1994, during my first summerlong 

visit to Kenya, I cannot 

recall visiting a coffee shop in 

Nairobi. Twenty-five years later, 

it isn’t hard to find such cafes to 

conduct business interviews or 

meet with friends, complete with 

a knowledgeable barista showcasing the 

special quality of Kenyan coffee. 

Among these coffee drinkers, however, 

how many know that it takes more than 

three dozen pairs of hands for a tiny coffee 

seed to transform into a liquid beverage? 

Sometimes even those who drink the most 

coffee in the world – per capita consumption 

is highest in Scandinavia and the United 

States – may not know that coffee is a tree 

and a cherry. And who can explain the 

labour-intensive process that coffee takes 

from farm to cup? 

To help bridge this gap, some farms 

have launched coffee tours to teach visitors 

about the lengthy coffee chain, where it first 

begins as a seed and grows into a tall tree 

that produces flowers, green unripe cherries 

and finally red cherries. Only when these 

cherries are bright red are they ready to 

be picked and sorted, a time-consuming 

job often accomplished by women. These 

cherries can be processed in different ways 

depending on the machines or technical 

capacity at various farms. After processing, 

the “parchment” coffee is ready to be dried 

in the sun, then taken to the mill where it 

transforms again to “green coffee”—usually 

the form in which it is then exported to North 

America or Europe. Only after all these steps 

will green coffee be roasted into a darkbrown 

hue, then be ground, brewed and 

prized as a beverage. 

Coffee tours can offer a way for farmers 

to diversify their income. From climate 

change to coffee-berry diseases, many 

challenges lead young people to migrate 

to cities and older farmers to uproot their 

coffee trees to plant other crops. For many 

coffee farmers in the more than 70 coffeeproducing 

countries in Latin America, Africa 

and Asia, coffee has been an unprofitable 

business for decades. 

I always learn something new every time 

I visit a new coffee plantation, estate or 

farm. I’ve joined coffee tours on farms from 

Nicaragua to Rwanda. Some family estates, 

such as Greenwell Farms on Kona island, 

Hawaii or Hacienda San Pedro in Puerto 

Rico, have been giving public coffee tours 

for many years, allowing survival despite 

market fluctuations and climate disasters, 

such as hurricanes. 

Yet in East Africa as a whole, it is still 

relatively harder to find a coffee estate, 

plantation or cooperative that publicly 

welcomes guests to learn about the whole 

process of coffee from seed to cup. In Kenya, 

however, there are several opportunities to 

learn about coffee production. For those 

near Nairobi, one of the best options is the 

educational experience offered at Fairview 

Estate in Kiambu, where day-time coffee 

tours are possible most days except Sundays, 

which is the weekly agricultural holiday. 

When I visited in June, I was given an 

enriching tour by Mary, an experienced 

barista, coffee taster and tour guide. As we 

walked through part of the estate’s 150 acres 

of land, she talked about the importance of 

coffee varietals, such as those now popular 

in Kenya (Batian, Ruiru 11, SL28), and she 

shared that in addition to several families 

who live and work year-round on the 

estate, during the harvest, more than 400 

people are given work picking, sorting and 

processing coffee. The tour ended with a 

tasting of three different roasts of the same 

coffee—emphasizing that coffee’s unique 

flavor has as much to do with its production 

on the farm, as it does when it is roasted and 

brewed. 

Last month, I flew from Nairobi to Kitale 

to visit Sakami Coffee in Trans Nzoia county 

on the slopes of Mt. Elgon. With 70 acres in 

production—50,000 coffee trees—Sakami’s 

husband/wife co-owners, Gloria and Jarmo 

Gummerus, are focused on sustainability 

and transparency at every step of their 

coffee’s production. And while they are not 

yet ready to host coffee tourists, it is part of 

their overall vision for the future after they 

complete their next phase of planting 30 

more acres of coffee trees from the seedlings 

growing in their coffee nursery. 

From California to Cape Town, owners 

of vineyards have offered wine tours and 

wine tastings for decades. In the twenty-first 

century, coffee may be the one of the world’s 

most desired beverages, but its consumption 

will only be possible if coffee farmers and 

producers find it financially profitable. For 

those who can, Coffee Tourism may be one 

strategy to sustain a future with coffee for us 

all. 

Author bio: 

Erika is a writer, teacher and researcher 

living in Nairobi, Kenya. She is a Research 

Associate at the University of Nairobi; a 

PhD candidate in International Development 

Studies at Saint Mary’s University in 

Canada, and an Authorized Trainer of the 

Specialty Coffee Association. Instagram: @ 

AWorldinYourCup. 


NOTES FROM THE BUSH 

BIRTHDAYS ARE FOR 

WILD CAMPING 

It seemed a slightly strange request from our soon-to-be eight-year-old; 

to take her ‘proper’ camping for her birthday when she had spent most 

of her life growing up in a tent, writes Samantha du Toit. However, 

missing ‘proper’ camping themselves, the family happily obliged. 

Preparation started with 

digging out old tin trunks 

full of slightly rusty pots and 

pans, dusting out camping 

tents, relocating the grill, 

deciding on bedding 

options and, of course, 

creating campfire-friendly food menus. At 

last, with the car heaving under the weight 

of our outdoor equipment, we set off to our 

new campsite; a short journey of a mere 

kilometre or so from camp but, nonetheless, 

a different world. Located right on the river, 

and a few feet from a small sandy valley 

which we knew from past experience was a 

key drinking point for many wild animals, our 

new campsite was just the right size. Nestled 

in the bushes, we had enough space for our 

cooking area and two tents; one for us and 

one for Auntie and Uncle, who were joining 

our birthday fun. 

As the camp came to life with a washingup 

station in place, tents and beds made 

up and tables and chairs put around the 

campfire, preparations for dinner started. 

The children rose to the occasion, delighted 

to help with all the chores and preparations 

as it all seemed novel and fun. As the light 

was fading, we almost could not believe our 

eyes as, in the distance, a small family of 

elephants made their way carefully down to 

the river to drink. They could not see us, and 

dinner preparations on hold, we watched 

them until the light faded. Later, we sat 

with a delicious meal on the plates on our 

laps, tasting all the better for the time and 

campfire smoke it had taken to get it there. 

The night noises seemed closer than 

usual. As we fell asleep we could hear the 

distant bark of baboons, the closer whoop 

of the hyenas and perhaps some more 

elephants splashing in the cool river. 

In the morning we started our day by 

reading the ‘morning news’ or in other 

words, looking for who had come to drink 

in the night. A plethora of tracks greeted us 

including leopard, hyena, various gazelles 

and a porcupine. Seyia shrieked with 

surprise when she noticed our washing up 

sponge in the bushes with a few chunks 

missing from it. A hungry genet had done 

that, we all assumed. As we stood and 

turned around from the river to walk back 

to the campsite, we gasped to see a lioness 

with her four small cubs looking at us, very 

surprised to see us on their way to drink. 

She stared at us for what seemed like a long 

time, but in reality was probably a splitsecond, 

before heading off at a fast trot in 

the opposite direction. Her cubs followed, 

and we could track their progress away 

from us by the warning calls of the baboons 

and vervet monkeys. 

We spent the rest of the day by the 

river, relaxing, swimming, cooking and 

bird watching. We returned to main camp 

the following day, tired and dirty but with 

blissful memories of our ‘proper’ camping 

trip and with a family pact not to leave it so 

long until the next time. 

Samantha du Toit is a wildlife 

conservationist, working with SORALO, a 

Maasai land trust. She lives with her 

husband, Johann, and their two children at 

Shompole Wilderness, a tented camp in the 

Shompole Conservancy. 


KOBE SUITE RESORT, WATAMU 

Nested in the heart of Watamu Marine National Park, Kobe Suite Resort 

offers a unique stay, endless opportunities to relax and reconnect with 

nature and the special people in your life, this is a place you don’t want to 

leave. The resort features a tropical garden, two outdoor pools & a private 

beach area. Come & discover the beauty of the best beach in Kenya. 

WELCOME 

It is our pleasure to welcome you to Kobe Suite Resort, Watamu. Our 

helpful, friendly personnel eagerly await your arrival and are committed 

to ensuring that your stay is enjoyable and unique. As soon as you arrive 

you’ll be greeted with the warm embrace of our perfect tropical climate 

and feel instantly relaxed with the natural beauty of our spectacular 

location. 

Our team always ensures to go the extra mile to make sure your visit 

is an extraordinary experience. The resort’s twenty three suites, two 

swimming pools, luscious gardens, beach bar and beach restaurant make a 

relaxing lounging area with direct access to the beach, where we provide 

exclusive services for Kobe Suite Resort guests. 

The pure and peaceful character of Kobe Suite Resort is ideal for just 

relaxing and connecting with nature. The warm, turquoise blue waters 

and the majestic sand bar are soothing and alluring offering themselves 

as your own therapeutic spa while also providing a spectacular place for 

snorkeling, scuba diving, fishing and kite surfing. 

SUITES 

The resort consists of 23 suites of which; 18 Garden View Suites and 5 

Ocean View Suites. All suites have all the necessary amenities to make 

your stay as enjoyable as possible. 

WELLNESS & BEAUTY 

Every facet of daily life is aligned with the purpose of nurturing health, 

harmony, and spiritual growth and provides a complete 

experiential education in holistic living. Hence we offer, three types of 

massages as well as manicure and pedicure. 

FOOD & DRINK 

Dining at the beach with a gentle breeze is one of life’s great pleasures. 

Whether it be breakfast, lunch or dinner, our signature menus focus on 

fresh produce cooked simply and served expertly. 

www.kobesuiteresort.com || info@kobesuiteresort.com +254 722 658951 

KobeSuiteResort kobesuiteresortkenya 


FROM PRAGUE 

WITH LOVE 

Kari Mutu spends time in the capital city of 

the Czech Republic, walking around Prague’s 

old town which is an immersion into history, 

varied architecture, cultural attractions, beer 

and food...lots of food. 

Established in the 9th century, Prague 

has become so popular that one resident 

told us that she leaves the city during the 

summertime. I travelled in the spring when 

the weather was still chilly but the streets 

were less crowded and therefore pleasant to 

walk around. Communication is not difficult 

because English is spoken by many locals, 

although you might struggle with the names 

of places. Each morning we strolled down 

the celebrated Wenceslas Square, named 

after an old king whose good deeds are 

immortalised in a famous Christmas carol. 

Here, many important events have taken 

place like the founding of Czechoslovakia 

and anti-communist protests. 

Today this ancient city is a 

mix of old and new, where 

businesses and retail shops 

sit next to monasteries and 

palace gardens. At the 

bottom of a cobble-stoned 

street we found an outdoor 

market that has apparently been running for 

almost 800 years. There were stalls selling 

mouth-watering fruits, sweets, souvenirs 

and colourful figurines of the famous Infant 

Jesus of Prague. Just beyond the market 

was the St Gallen Church, and inside the 

quiet softly light sanctuary, I marvelled at 

the rich paintings, gilding, carved pews and 

sculptures. 

Much of the city's architecture is like 

works of art and at every turn there is 

something captivating to see: pink, blue and 

green facades, sculptures at street corners, 

fascinating sewer gratings, large doors 

with amazing details, decorative wrought 

iron grills, buildings with bas relief art and 

more. Yet Prague wasn’t always beautiful. 

Czechoslovakia rose from the ashes of the 

Austro-Hungarian empire at the end of 

World War I then split into two countries in 

1993. Prague’s complicated story includes 

bombings during World War II and 

occupation by Germany and communist 

Russia. A wall around a construction site 

was covered with photographs of Prague 

between the 19th and 20th centuries. 

Near the town square we stopped to 

view the Astronomical Clock, a 600-year 

old medieval timepiece that is the oldest 

operating clock in the world. Its two blueand-gold 

clock faces are decorated with 

Zodiac signs, carved figures and Roman 

numerals, and it looks like something out of a 

fairy tale. When the clock chimes at the top 

of every hour the animated statuettes come 

to life, much to the amazement of gathered 

onlookers. 

We passed street performers in gold 

costumes and face paint. Somebody cruised 

slowly along in a long red vintage vehicle. 

Down a narrow street we were shocked 

to see a man dangling by his hand from a 

building. It is the renowned Man Hanging 

Out sculpture of the celebrated physiologist 

Sigmund Freud, created by Czech artist 

David Cerny. 

Czech Republic is renowned for beers 

such as Budweiser, Pilsner Urquell and the 

non-alcoholic Birell, so a visit to the Prague 

Beer Museum was not to be missed. An 

unusual attraction was the Museum of Senses 

which had all kinds of optical illusions and 

intriguing displays. 

Food is quite affordable here with 

a variety of cuisine available. We had 

Vietnamese lunch at the Banh-mi-Ba, a 

busy Vietnamese bistro where big portions 

of soup, noodles, shrimp and vegetables 

arrived at our table promptly. I was 

surprised to learn that Prague has a sizeable 

Vietnamese population, a legacy of the 

communist era when students came to study in 

the former Czechoslovakia. 

Down a narrow street we discovered the 

Choco Café that specialises in flavoured hot 

chocolate made from real chocolate bars. 

Mine had fresh raspberries and whipped 

cream and was smooth, creamy and incredibly 

rich. 

We had planned to take an evening river 

cruise but decided against it because there was 

rain in the forecast. Instead, we dined at the 

stylish Hergotova Cihelna Restaurant located 

along the banks of the Vltava River. Near the 

restaurant is another legendary David Cerny 

statue called Piss. It depicts to two mechanical 

brass men urinating into a water fountain! 

Under the imposing vaulted ceilings of the 

restaurant we enjoyed beautifully presented 

plates of baked goat cheese, beef tartare and 

venison accompanied by fine Czech wines. 

The service was wonderful too. 

On another day we strolled across the 

beautiful historic Charles Bridge, the most 

well-known of the 18 bridges across the 

Vtlava River. From the middle you gaze at the 

broad blue river flanked by historic buildings, 

spires, church steeples and clock towers. In the 

distance was the setting sun and forest-covered 

hills. 

That evening we happened upon the U 

Tri Ruzi Resturant off the main town square. 

Inside the busy, double-storey establishment, 

the wood panelled walls and booth seating 

give the ambience of an old tavern. The 

menu offered home-style dishes like ribs, 

beef goulash and pork knuckles with mashed 

potatoes and gravy. Ruzi also operates a 

popular micro-brewery and I found red ale 

beer more to my taste than the dark lager. 

With some extra time I would have liked to 

visit the old Jewish Quarter and Prague Castle 

that looks over the city. 


KENYAN TRAVELER 


GLOBETROTTERS 

Faith Kanja talks to travel blogger 

Muthoni Maingi about her trips across 

the globe, talking to strangers in pubs 

and accepting invitations that 

no sensible person would. 

Twitter @NonieMG 

What inspires you to travel? 

I have always loved to disappear and immerse myself in the novelty 

of ‘undiscovered to me’ territories. This started when I was a small 

child who would climb into cupboards and hide for hours, to the 

present when I sometimes book spontaneous trips 

and disappear into weekends of pure silence. I like to 

walk in spaces that are familiar and comfortable to 

others because it is their home, but that are unfamiliar 

to me. In many ways, a penchant for discovery and 

disappearing are not solely tied to the traveling 

experience; these are inherent drives that come with 

certain personality traits. 

I also like to engage in the banal difference and 

nuance of everyday existence in a different place, 

because a morning commute in Kuala Lumpur 

and one in Nairobi essentially holds the same tension; working hard to get 

somewhere on time, in style and in one piece (the mundane) but the difference is 

in the sounds, smells, transport options and directional signage languages. 

What are some of your favourite destinations that you’ve been to? 

Malaysia, Mexico, Scotland, Madagascar and Turkey 

are my favourite travel destinations for their amazing 

people, food, one-of-a-kind views and experiences 

overall. 

How have other cultures influenced you during your 

travels? 

I always come back with recipes and cultural practices that I love to 

replicate at home. I do Ethiopian coffee ceremonies for friends and make 

Malagasy iced tea. The latter is pretty simple: boil black tea, lavender, 

vanilla, honey, cloves, cinnamon and cardamom, add lemon juice when 

cool, add ice then serve. I also have a tradition with a close friend where 

I bring the country’s alcohol back and we enjoy it in my garden as we 

gossip and catch up. 

What’s your favourite thing to do in a new town? 

Walking into bars and cafes and striking up deep conversations with 

strangers. I have friendships that have grown having started off from this, 

as well as heaps of stories on adventures that this led to! 

What’s one tip you’ve learned thanks to frequent travel? 

Please buy travel insurance. So much can go wrong with your health, missing flights, theft or loss 

of property. 

Essential items to pack... 

My packing list always has sweaters, scarves, sundresses, shorts, sunscreen, sunglasses, sneakers 

and sandals. I call them ‘the big S’, and those are the essentials. Everything else is not as 

important. 

How do you prepare for a trip? 

A lot of research goes into the tourist traps and how to discover the path less travelled. I make 

sure I have insurance, extra money (make sure you have 1/3 more than you think you need) 

then take care of cultural sensitivities to avoid offending anyone by reading up on the place. I’d 

suggest following local bloggers and voices for insight on that. 

Which three destinations are currently on your bucket list? 

Jamaica, Japan and Colombia. 


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PHOTOGRAPHS BRIAN SIAMBI 

MALINDI, 

Having spent a glorious week exploring 

its beaches, sampling local and Italian 

food, following strangers on impromptu 

adventures and diving head first into an 

array of excursions, Wendy Watta makes a 

case for why you should visit Malindi. 

MAMMA MIA! 


The plan is to join our photographers Brian and 

Trevor on a sunrise-chasing mission, but when I 

get a call from the former at about 5:15 am the 

next morning saying that our tuk tuk is waiting at 

the hotel gate, I seriously contemplate shutting 

off my phone and sinking deeper into the warm 

bosom of my comfortable double bed at Malindi 

Dream Garden. I often find it easy to catch the sunset, because if 

I’m at the coast, I am likely to be strategically placed at the best 

seat in some beachside or cliff-top bar with two daiquiris singing 

a catchy pop song in my head. A sunrise is often caught if it so 

happens to wash through the large windows of a cozy room I’m 

staying in, but actually having to rise up early for one is a concept 

I’ve never understood. Yet, I’ve seen enough photographers nearfanatically 

plan for one with the seriousness of Jack Bauer trying to 

find a bomb hidden somewhere in the city in 24. 

Walking down the Malindi pier barely 10 minutes after getting 

up, I am instantly sucked into vibe here. A man holding the hands 

of his two little daughters on either side strolls past me and the trio 

position themselves at the end of the pier facing the water in wait of 

the sun. Another rides his bicycle back and forth as though either 

restless or exercising. Two tall guys, abs in full display, do their 

burpees on the pavement, and let’s just say that I can see how a 

tourist from a faraway land would be drawn to these ‘oh so exotic’ 

beach boys. At this point, the sky is yellow and orange and pink but 

the sun is still playing peekaboo, so I decide to walk down to the 

sand which, much like the rest of Malindi, has black deposits and is 

speckled with micah, aka fools gold, which glitters in the sand. 

A group of boys play football close to the water, and every 

so often, the ball is kicked into the sea and someone has to dive 

in and body-surf the waves to retrieve it. When the blazing ball 

of orange does take to the skies with such boldness and aplomb, 

we all come to a standstill as though watching the ultimate flag 

being raised. Malindi sunrises are incredible, and as an apology 

to photographers for everything I said before this mission, I get it. 

Really, I do. 

In some rather stark ways, this town has changed from what it 

was three years ago when I spent quite a bit of time here on a family 

holiday. If ever there was a place where the hotel industry took a 

hit along the coast, it would be this. Once-popular spots like Coral 

Key, one of the oldest hotels in the town and where I remember us 

struggling to find space and thereafter stuffing our faces with heaps of 

cheese-packed pasta, are no more. Others like Eden Roc, Beverly key 

and more also closed down. Italians, who would come down in large 

numbers, have also reduced from this town which was once deemed 

as ‘Kenya’s little Italy’. Still, their influence is just as tangibly noticeable 

in the food and even signage language 

Things seem to be looking up, particularly this year, as Malindi 

seeks to return to its former glory. Keen to rediscover the town, I hop 

on a boda boda to the Vasco da Gama pillar which I first visited 

during a history class field trip as a teenager. During a candid 

conversation, a hotelier at one spot we passed by had confided that 

they thought it was a run down place that they hadn’t taken their 

guests to for years, a sentiment I heard echoed a few times. On 

personal inspection, however, I thought it to be fine, and a tunnel 

underneath it led us to a beach where we were lucky to spot some 

starfish. Gede Ruins, the remnants of an ancient Swahili town, are 

still a worthwhile visit for culture buffs. Keen to find out some history, 

I head to the museum which proves to be a rather underwhelming 

experience. It is 5:00 pm and there is no one to show me around as 

all the guides have apparently gone home. I am instructed to ‘just 

walk around and see’, and when I ask about the history, get the noncommittal 

‘if you know about the popular history of Mombasa then 

that’s pretty much it”. 

Still, the charm of this quaint town is not lost on me, and for the 

discerning traveler, Malindi has a lot to offer. As of this year, tourism 

is looking up yet again and spots like Malindi Dream Garden where 

we stayed are bustling with guests. Having spent one glorious week 

exploring its beaches and tucking into its food (both at the nice 

restaurants in town and that roadside kibanda where a lovely Swahili 

woman sold me viazi karai with tangy tamarind sauce), what follows 

are some things that we did during our trip and that are worth adding 

to your itinerary. 


A group of boys play 

football close to the 

water, and every 

so often, the ball is 

kicked into the sea 

and someone has to 

dive in to retrieve it 



THE LOW-DOWN ON MALINDI 

HIDDEN GEM 

SABAKI RIVER ESTUARY 

We had heard that the Sabaki River is a haven for flamingos, and 

that the best spot to take in the view was at the bridge, and so we 

ask our regular tuk tuk driver Mohamed to take us there. This place 

turns out to be exactly as advertised, but as Trevor is setting up his 

drone, a man runs up to us, introduces himself as a guide and tells us 

that there is an even better secret spot, one where the river meets the 

sea and where the view is tenfold. This man, Karisa, tells us that it is 

about 10 minutes off the main road, and that our tuk tuk can make 

it there, so without much convincing, we follow him. We turn into a 

blink-and-you-will-miss-it-path and follow the meandering river whose 

banks are so muddy that I think we will certainly tumble over in this 

rickshaw, but we only ever get stuck. 

Moments later we come to the base of a huge sand dune where 

the tuk tuk can’t go any further, and as we follow Karisa up one sand 

dune and the next, I can’t help but wonder if I’m a lamb walking 

altogether too willingly into slaughter. Mohamed, too, says he has 

never been to this place, and while I’m starting to panic inside whilst 

wondering if he might be in on whatever this is, on the outside, I am 

the definition of calm and collected. 

Then our group walks up to the most beautiful enclave I’ve seen 

in Malindi, where the river stretches a hand out to greet the sea 

but ever so slightly misses - so near yet so far! The ocean forcefully 

crashes into the land as if it has a personal vendetta that the wind 

is egging on. There are ridges left in the sand by the tide, and I 

quite enjoy sinking my feet into the little pools scattered all over. A 

big flock of flamingos paint the shoreline white in their plumage, 

and as we approach, they flap their wings as though part of a wellrehearsed 

orchestra and fly off to the other shore. Karisa informs us 

that this is an important birding area, and that hippos are also found 

in this region. This estuary, which overlooks Malindi town, is certainly 

worth the trip. Karisa Benjamin (Guide)- 0711849742 

WHERE TO EAT 

BEACHSIDE: Osteria Beach House - This English colonial-style house 

is set right on Silversand beach, and when we stopped by for lunch, 

we dined al fresco under the cool shade of a tree. If you dine at only 

two places in town, stop by this spot or their other outlet in town 

which has the best ice creams around. 

There is a swimming pool but you can also dip in the sea then 

lounge on the sunbeds. Service is fast and friendly and the food is 

worth writing home about, especially the deep fried calamari, and 

our group also tried tuna and a salad, pasta and pizza crowned 

with ice cream. There’s a stand where a local man selling handmade 

souvenirs. He is so convincing that weeks after my trip, I still don’t 

remember how I bought four brass rings from him. 

FOR DINNER: Bar Bar Restaurant & Bar - Bar Bar came 

recommended several times by residents, so we made a reservation. 

Set right next to the road, it is open to the front side ( imagine the 

great people watching during the day!) and is also quite spacious. 

There was a lively game of football showing on the screens. As soon 

as we sat down, an elderly Italian guy, presumably the manager, 

brought menus to our table, handing them to the ladies first - what a 

gentleman! The menu is very Italian, so expect pasta, pizza, gelato, 

tiramisu and the works. The ragu pizza is highly recommended. 

FOR LOCAL FOOD: Taheri Fast Foods - This is a small but prominent 

restaurant run by Tasneem Mohsin and her husband and sons. It is 

always bustling, which speaks to its popularity. The food is good 

and cheerfully affordable. Tasneem makes a mean baked mutton 

leg, and the menu being Indian and Swahili, I like to pass by for their 

mandazi, viazi, bhajia, kaimati and the works. 

FOR SEAFOOD: Che Shale - 20 km North of Malindi, this spot might 

be popular for kitesurfing, but foodies will know it for its organic 

crab farm to plate experience. In an environment best described as 

castaway-chic, this passion project by owner Justin offers massive 

mangrove crab served in various ways blended with local flavours 

and spices. If you’ve never had soft shell crab fried until golden 

crispy with a dab of mango salsa, or the perfect crab cakes, this 

place is it. 


THE OCEAN FORCEFULLY CRASHES INTO THE LAND AS IF IT HAS A PERSONAL 

VENDETTA THAT THE WIND IS EGGING ON. A BIG FLOCK OF FLAMINGOS 

PAINT THE SHORELINE WHITE IN THEIR PLUMAGE, AND AS WE APPROACH, THEY 

FLAP THEIR WINGS AS THOUGH PART OF A WELL-REHEARSED ORCHESTRA 

AND FLY OFF TO THE OTHER SHORE. 


Aerial Photographs Trevor Maingi 


FUN IN THE SUN 

DHOW CRUISE 

A sunset dhow cruise is my all-time 

favourite thing to do at the coast, and 

I therefore always seek it. Our crew of 

two is waiting when we finally get to the 

family-run Driftwood Beach Hotel, and 

we quickly hop on a speedboat which 

takes us to a traditional Mozambican-style 

dhow. After we all climb the ladder and 

get on board, we set sail. These cruises 

can be as laid back or extravagant as 

you want them to be. Desired drinks and 

snacks are always advised, and I always 

remember to pack some ciders or a bottle 

of wine. We even carry a bluetooth 

speaker so we can play our favourite 

songs as we are lulled up and down the waves, in and out of the 

winds. If you wish, you can even stop on a secluded beach for a 

private beachside seafood barbeque. 

Book a cruise with Driftwood Beach Club: 

www.driftwoodclub.com 

SCUBA DIVING 

Plan Hotels overlook Malindi Marine Park which is located south of 

the town extending to Mida Creek. It stands out for its fringing reefs, 

coral gardens in the lagoons, diversity of fish, mudflats and more 

making it ideal for scuba diving and snorkelling, both of which we 

try. Brian, who goes diving, reports seeing octopus, lionfish, turtle, 

stingray and more. 

Dive with Blue-Fin Diving: www.bluefindiving.com 

OUT OF TOWN EXCURSION 

MARAFA HELL’S KITCHEN 

About an hour from Malindi Dream Garden where we are staying, 

we make a return trip to this intriguing sandstone canyon which, 

according to science, formed through erosion over thousands of 

years. The soil is so brittle that if you kick it it breaks apart so this 

isn’t exactly a far fetched notion. Its daunting name comes from the 

structure and colour which resembles flames jutting out of the bottom 

of the earth, and if you visit in the daytime you might just pass out 

from the heat. There are a variety of rather bizarre local folklore 

surrounding its formation, including one which claims that it came to 

be as a result of heavy rains which God sent down to punish a rich 

family who had a lot of cattle and so much produce that they would 

even bathe in milk, and yet would not mind their poor neighbours. 

A friend, on the other hand, mentioned that he thought it may have 

formed during the flood in Noah’s day... 

Whatever the case, this canyon is indeed fascinating to see. 

The white, yellow and red pigment 

in the soil are so vibrant that 

according to our guide, Maasai 

and Giriama women collect and 

use it cosmetically or as paint 

during traditional ceremonies. Wear 

comfortable walking shoes if you 

intend to go down into the valley. 

Evenings are the best time for a visit 

as the sunsets here just photogenic. 

This excursion was organised by 

Intra Safaris Ltd. 

www. intrasafaris.com. 

RESIDENT KNOW-HOW 

Sabina Vivaldi, Owner, 

Cozy Point Homes 

Malindi resident for the past 20 years. 

What are your favourite places to eat in town? 

I quite like Osteria Beach Bar for their good Italian food. In the 

town center, I like to have breakfast with friends at Karen Blixen or 

Bar Bar where I’m likely to have a cappuccino and brioche. 

Favourite thing to do in town… 

I like going around the fabric shops because I enjoy making my 

own clothes and sometimes for friends and guests. I work with a 

few tailors in town for that. I especially like the Indian shops and 

once in a while they will bring something new and will let me know 

beforehand so there is always that excitement of waiting for their 

stock to arrive. I even take my guests to explore the shops. I also 

really love the beaches, and Silversands beach is a nice spot for an 

evening walk. Mayungu, which is 20 minutes out of town, is one of 

the best and if you fly over it you will realize that it is a natural pool 

because you can see the reef and the coast underneath its clear 

waters. 

Best kept secret... 

In the dry season, I go to this secret spot near Arabuko Sokoke forest, 

and it has a natural water pond where elephants come to drink. 

ON YOGA... 

Morris Kalama, yoga teacher 

I’ve been teaching yoga for the past 10 years and currently spend 

a lot of time between Watamu and Malindi. My favourite spot is a 

beach which we call Obuntwane in Bajuni...it is close to Vasco da 

Gama and sometimes I go there with friends. My favourite thing is 

however to teach different types of yoga such as ashtanga, power 

vinyasa, hatha, vinyasa flow and restorative yoga. I get all levels of 

people, and we have some really beautiful homes which are perfect 

for sessions in the mornings or evenings. Malindi is also ideal for 

retreats so it would be a good spot for teachers to look into. 

morriskalamayoga@gmail.com 



MALINDI DREAM 

GARDEN 

Run by the Planhotel Hospitality Group which also owns Sandies Tropical Village 

and Diamond Dream of Africa , this cozy gem is a real slice of paradise on the coast. 

Text: Nomad Photography: Brian Siambi 

USE THE CODE: PLAN NOMAD 10 % OFF 

VALID UNTIL 30TH NOVEMBER 2019 


O 

wned by the Planhotel 

Hospitality Group which 

has stunning properties 

around Africa and the 

Maldives, there are 

technically three unique 

boutique hotels set along 

the powder-white backdrop of one of 

Malindi’s best beaches. First there is Sandies 

Tropical Village, one of the key and longestrunning 

successful hotels in town, with a 

locally influenced Swahili architecture and 

decor. There is also the Indo-Arab style 

Diamonds Dream of Africa which is one of 

the most luxurious offerings in this part of 

the coast. Finally, there is Malindi Dream 

Garden which is where our team stayed, 

checking in through a reception which used 

to be an old English house before being 

extended and renovated, outfitted with 

attractive art accented by whitewashed 

wooden furniture which blends seamlessly 

into the coastal atmosphere. Guests have 

access to all spaces, and there is a different 

ambiance throughout the property. 

At Malindi Dream Garden, there are 44 

deluxe suites and four stylish superior suites 

spread across two floors and semi-circling 

a lush green garden dotted with palm trees, 

and in whose center sits a large swimming 

pool. Much to my delight given our allinclusive 

status, a pool bar is only a stone’s 

throw away from my room, and those rumand-passion 

cocktails aren’t going to drink 

themselves. Walking in through the front 

door of my room, there is an air-conditioner 

and a fan, a large en-suite bathroom, double 

bed, refrigerator, safe, working area and 

the usual conveniences found in spaces 

of a similar standards. Large glass doors 

lead to an open terrace with sun loungers, 

overlooking the garden and pool. For art 

lovers, the exterior walls of each suite has a 

vibrant tropical painting, a pleasant addition 

to the decor. 

For lunch we meet at the beach which 

has daybeds facing the blue water where 

guests take turns dipping in the sea or 

basking in the sun. As far as set-ups go, 

this is as special as it gets. Tucked in the 

more secluded end of the beach, a rustic 

white-washed wooden table with four chairs 

sits in the shade of a white sailing canvas 

which billows gently in the afternoon breeze. 

The white backdrop is offset by a colourful 

wreath made out of palm and accessorized 

by bougainvillea flowers. There is a bottle of 

white wine chilling in an ice bucket, and this 

is served as soon as we settle in. Chef Ayaz 

then comes to take us through his menu; 

most of the dishes are either from the sea or 

sourced from their organic farm, making for 

the absolute farm-to-table dining. The amusebouche 

is a bite-sized California roll with a 

side of smoked sailfish and tomato-topped 

bruschetta. This is followed by delicious 

seafood paella which comes topped with 

lobster and served in a wok. The star of 

the show, however, is a miniature wooden 

‘seafood boat’ laden with all sorts of grilled 

seafood, and I don’t care where we’re 

sailing to...I’m jumping aboard and jostling 

for space! I spot lobster, octopus, prawns 

and tuna, and after grabbing a few pieces 

of lime, we tuck in! 

After dessert, fresh fruit dipped in 

chocolate fondue, I all but waddle to 

Mvua African Rain Spa for a relaxing 

30 minute massage in which I fall sound 

asleep, followed by a soothing dip in the 

thalassotherapy center which has pools lined 

with water jets said to boost circulation. The 

rest of the afternoon passes by in a glorious 

blur of cocktails, sleep and a rented kayak 

from the adjacent diving and watersports 

center taken out to sea: it’s not a bad day to 

be a travel writer. 

For business travelers, this spot has just 

opened the biggest hotel conferencing 

facility in Malindi with a capacity of about 

500 people. Two restaurants and three 

bars complete the idyllic vacation setting, 

and there is also a gym on site which I 

actually don’t set foot in as I am altogether 

too content to be a beach bum. We tuck 

into themed gourmet dinners ranging from 

African to Mongolian, and on our second of 

five nights, an animation team provides the 

evening entertainment. 

The hotel helps set up most of our 

excursions around Malindi, from diving 

and snorkelling to out-of-town excursions 

to Marafa Hell’s Kitchen. What stands out 

the most is however the friendly staff with 

whom I can tell that every interaction is truly 

genuine. Whether they are whipping up a 

cocktail at the pool bar, offering a bottle 

of water at the lunch buffet or ensuring the 

rooms remain fresh and polished, truly enjoy 

what they are doing and just want to ensure 

that we are having the best time. At these 

three hotels set just off Malindi’s Casuarina 

Road, we arrive as guests but leave as 

friends, having had a good ol’ time by the 

beach. www.planhotel.com 

Email: reservations.kenya@planhotel.com 


WHERE TO STAY 

MALINDI 

WHITE ELEPHANT SEA & ART LODGE 

This lodge is a fusion of nature and 

art having 19 rooms and four two-and 

three-bedroom apartments. Each room is 

personally adorned by the master artist 

Armando Tanzini’s creations, and each 

furniture piece handcrafted at the White 

Elephant Creativity Centre. The outdoor areas 

are intricately designed with nature and art in 

mind. Three guest-accessible art galleries are 

nestled in the beach forest which is not only 

dotted by Armando Tanzini’s monumental 

sculptures but is home to an array of small 

animals and birds. The Lodge has two 

restaurants, individual gazebos, lounging 

areas and meeting rooms. 

www.whiteelephantmalindi.com 

DRIFTWOOD BEACH CLUB 

These family-run cottages and villas can 

accommodate just 70 guests. The dwellings 

are constructed in the traditional coastal style 

and brought up to date with air-conditioning 

and other modern amenities. The rooms are 

designed to be private while still being close 

to the open-air bar and dining area. For 

those who simply want to relax, they have 

four miles of white beach perfect for long 

walks, a treatment room as well as plenty 

of lounging areas. Driftwood Beach Club's 

experienced team are on hand to offer some 

of the best food in Malindi. 

www.driftwoodclub.com 

OCEAN BEACH RESORT 

Expect a five star resort that takes hospitality 

back to its essence. Luxuriously appointed 

rooms are spread around the beautiful 

gardens creating a private and secluded 

atmosphere. The hotel offers 20 rooms and 

15 suites showcasing early 20th century 

tropical style with wooden beamed roofs and 

elegant wooden floors. Surrounded by green 

lawns and palm trees, spend four nights in 

a deluxe suite beachfront room and the fifth 

night is on them. Relax at the beachfront 

restaurant, Dunes, sample the chef’s menu at 

Victoria Restaurant or simply enjoy the sunset 

and an evening cocktail at Finch Hatton’s 

Bar. www.oceanbeachkenya.com 


Photography: Brian Siambi and Respective Properties 

WHITE NYUMBA 

This all-white house has four double rooms 

spread across two flours. The ground 

floor has the kitchen which comes with an 

experienced chef and a small team who go 

out of their way to make sure your stay is 

comfortable. The main terrace has a large 

dining table which can hold eight people, 

a spacious lounge where your group can 

hang out in the evenings, complete with a 

swinging hammock. It overlooks a large 

pool tucked in the garden, perfect for 

cooling off on those hot Malindi afternoons. 

From Ksh 20,000. Book via AirBnb. 

BELLA AZZURA VILLA 

This is a lovely family vacation house 

set in the heart of Casuarina and which 

comfortably sleeps up to 12 guests. Located 

in a secure gated compound of four villas, 

the property has two apartments with a 

shared terrace. It can be booked as one 

villa for a large group, or each villa booked 

separately by up to six people. It has a 

beautiful pool with a gazebo, lush mature 

gardens and is only a five minute walk to 

the beach. A chef is available at an extra 

cost. Rates start from Ksh 3,400 per night. 

Book via AirBnb. 

KILILI BAHARINI 

This resort has 29 comfortable airconditioned 

rooms, three prestigious suites, 

three junior suites, five pools, two bars, a 

restaurant, spa and wellness center called 

Medicallife, and is set along the beach. 

The rooms – all furnished in Swahili style 

with whitewashed walls, draped mosquito 

nets and subtle lighting – overlook one of 

the swimming pools, and each has its own 

fully furnished private veranda. Deck chairs 

and comfortable day beds can be arranged 

at the beach for guests to use, as required. 

Simply put, the team here goes above and 

beyond to offer the very best. 

www.kililibaharini.com 


COZY POINT 

HOMES 

Immerse yourself in the local vibe in Malindi 

in a charming home setting where you never 

have to worry about what’s for dinner! 

Text: Sabina Vivaldi 

I would describe this spot as a charming, ownerrun 

villa where we love to invite people to explore, 

enjoy themselves, eat, drink, sing, dance, swim, 

bask in the sun and simply BE TOGETHER. 

Create lifetime memories in a comfortable 

home where your curiosity, desires, needs and 

passions can be explored. We offer a heartfelt and 

personalized experience where: 

• The Indian Ocean is at our front door 

• We have an intimate local understanding 

coupled with hands-on curating of 

whatever you’re seeking during your stay 

• Friendly service with a neighborhood 

and community vibe that includes dining, 

drinking and dancing 

• Retreat and quiet reflection services 

including a spa, massage, yoga and nature 

gazing. 

When I thought about how to decorate this 

house, I took Malindi as a reference. Every piece 

of furniture or art therefore draws inspiration 

from something specific. There is a striking 

painting by the artist Giampaolo Tomasi who 

portrays the head of the Mijikenda tribe, seats 

made from traditional dhows or fishing boats, 

Armando Tanzini sculptures which portray 

African subjects in the shapes and colours of the 

surrounding landscape here, and more. 

We also used Indian fabrics and objects to 

respect the colourful traditions of its people, 

the Italian taste of Lalla Spagnoll's decor is 

unmissable, paintings full of life and passion 

showcasing African expressions by the talented 

Alexandra Spyratos adorn the walls, complete 

with the paintings born of travels in the savannah 

by the artist Mariangela Verriello. In short, there 

is an air that unites Kenya, India and Italy in a 

harmonious and elegant mix that appeals to the 

eyes and truly speaks to the heart. 

Six guests can occupy the main house 

which has three spacious rooms. The spot is 

ideal for those looking to rent an entire place 

for themselves, couples or a family in search of 

exclusivity, privacy and serenity. It is the ideal 

place to use as a base from which to set off every 

day to discover numerous experiences that I 

organize to surprise the guests. 

There are two spacious verandahs and a big 

swimming pool which are ideal places to relax, 

have a drink or enjoy a meal. Coupled with the 

pool deck, these spots are great for practising 

yoga, and the home would be perfect for a 

wellness retreat. It is actually the excellent cuisine 

and soothing music which make the evenings 

a time to cherish, as guests and hosts come 

together to trade beautiful stories which has been 

known to lead to long-lasting friendships. 

AS A GUEST, YOU CAN EXPECT: 

The rates start from Ksh 45,000 and include breakfast, 

WiFi, laundry, daily cleaning and a local advisor. 

Contact via www.cozypointhomes.com 

• Three master bedrooms with bathrooms 

and walk-in closets. There are air 

conditioners, mosquito nets, linens and 

towels in all rooms. 

• The entrance has a relatively large 

reading area. A wide verandah with a 

living room and dining table are on the 

first floor. The main verandah is on the 

ground floor and has a lounge and a big 

dining table. 

• Spacious kitchen with a local chef 

• Store for sports gear 

• Swimming pool with sun beds and towels 

• Daily cleaning services and laundry are 

available. 

• Guard and Security services 24 hours 

• Local advisor and assistance all day at the 

residence 

• Masseuse (there is a massage room), 

personal trainer and yoga instructor can 

be arranged on request 

• Recommended minimum stay is three 

nights, and children under the age of 15 

are not admitted in the main house but 

are welcome at the beach. 

DAILY ACTIVITIES 

• Visit local communities 

• Explore the surrounding beaches 

• Shop from the town’s tailors, shoemakers, 

basket makers, craftsmen and fabric sellers. 

• Check out Malindi’s art and meet the 

artists 

• Excursions like diving, horse riding, golfing 

and deep-sea fishing 

• We organise lunches and dinners 

(personalized menus, shopping lists and 

cooking) and have a convenient formula of 

sharing the shopping costs 

• We can set up any type of events such as 

honeymoons, birthdays, anniversaries, 

marriage proposal, small weddings, private 

dinners with music, yoga and wellness 

retreats and more. 

I have international experience having planned 

events all over the world, and can help you 

organise whatever event you want.

@cozypointhomes 

Travel without feeling foreign 

info@cozypointhomes.com || +25 472 6313101 

www.cozypointhomes.com 


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With years of experience in this industry we have 

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P.O Box: 579 – 80200, Malindi, Kenya. 

Phone: +254 717 340 333, +254 715 096 099 

@acheche NOMAD MAGAZINE @achechetours 

2019 43

LUANDA: A CITY ON 

THE MOVE 

Maurice Schutgens heads to Angola and with only a day to spare, 

explores what he describes as ‘one of Africa’s greatest mysteries’. 

Luanda’s cuisine 

is famous for its 

strong Portuguese 

and Brazilian 

influences, with 

signature seafood 

dishes. 


DISPATCH 

F 

or many, Angola is the last piece 

of Africa’s travel puzzle. Once 

known as the mighty Kingdom 

of Ndongo ruled by Ngola 

(kings) it is a country that has 

been virtually ‘closed’ to the 

outside world since it cast off the 

shackles of Portuguese colonial rule. It is a 

country that has been shaped by a painful 

history of war and conflict, and yet today 

it is experiencing transformative change as 

certain as it is unpredictable. 

For most, knowledge about Angola starts 

and ends with war. This is unfortunate but 

unsurprising for a country that was embroiled 

in a bitter complex civil war that spanned 27 

years and caused immeasurable damage. 

While the war ended in 2002, its scars are 

yet to fully heal. Tourists, therefore, haven’t 

flocked to Angola’s shores in great numbers 

and it is this that has transformed the country 

into one of Africa’s greatest mysteries. 

The plane banked steeply over the 

dazzling waters of the Atlantic Ocean 

below us, the sun casting blinding reflections 

of the newly built skyscrapers rising from 

Luanda’s central business district. But it was 

something else altogether that caught my 

eye - the sprawling shanty towns (locally 

known as Musseques) home to the majority 

of Luanda’s eight million souls. It was literally 

a sea of humanity contained in a chaotic 

maze of corrugated iron dwellings. I knew, 

well before the tyres kissed the tarmac, that 

Luanda would be a city of unfathomable 

contrasts. 

Luanda was undeniably hot and 

somewhat humid, probably a climate not 

too different from when it was founded in 

1576 by Portuguese explorer Paulo Dia 

de Novais under the flowery name of São 

Paulo da Assunção de Loanda. From the 

moment of its birth and for centuries after, 

Luanda’s existence was inextricably linked 

to the movement of human cargo: the slave 

trade. Some three million souls destined for 

the plantations of South America and the 

Caribbean passed through its port. It was 

something to contemplate as the taxi whisked 

me through traffic. 

I parked myself in the Hotel Continental 

just a stone's throw away from the Baía de 

Luanda (Bay of Luanda) and situated directly 

next to crumbling facades of houses built 

some 400 years ago. Luanda is however 

more than a few crumbling buildings; new 

construction projects are springing up 

across the city with an insatiable appetite, 

from modern gated condominiums in 

the Talatona neighborhood and Chinese 

financed (and built) skyscrapers to fine 

dining establishments along the bay. There 

is no doubt that this city is Angola’s heart; 

a cosmopolitan and frenetic city, alive and 

heaving just below the surface. 

The next morning at sunrise, I hit the 

Avenida 4 de Fevereiro, situated along 

the bay, for a run. I swept past the Banco 

Nacional de Angola, a stunning relic of 

architecture with its perfect pink dome 

designed by Vasco Regaleira and inaugurated 

in 1956, before backtracking and heading for 

the Ilha do Cabo (Cape Island), a long spit of 

land jutting out into the Atlantic and lined with 

restaurants. By the time I got back to my hotel, 

Luanda was starting to wake from its slumbers 

and I prepared to head down the coast. 

Nearly half a century ago Parque 

Nacional da Quiçama (Kissama) was 

teeming with an abundance of wildlife, from 

the critically endangered Giant Sable to a 

nationally important population of elephants 

roaming freely in this 12,000 km² park. 

Initially established as a hunting reserve, its 

birth as a national park in 1975 coincided 

with the eruption of civil war and like many 

of Angola’s National Parks, Quiçama was 

abandoned. Today, driving through the park, 

it is clear that while Quiçama no longer hosts 

the multitudes of wildlife like it did in the past 

it is experiencing a resurgence of sorts and 

offers the best opportunity for spotting wildlife 

close to Luanda. 

In the late afternoon we left Quiçama 

behind us and headed back towards the 

capital, with one brief stop. The Miradouro 

da Lua (Viewpoint of the Moon) is one of 

Angola’s most spectacular natural sights, a 

lunar-martian landscape of deep shades of 

red and pink and earthy browns intricately 

carved by rain and wind over time. The cliffs 

tumble down to Angola’s wild coast in the 

distance. It is one of Angola’s most easily 

accessible sights just an hour (40km) out of 

Luanda. 

I returned to the city just in time to head 

up to the imposing Fortaleza de São Miguel 

guarding the entrance to Luanda Bay, 

constructed by the Portuguese in 1576. It is 

Luanda's oldest surviving building and home 

to the National Military Museum. Along 

with several planes and artillery housed in 

the courtyard it offers sweeping views of the 

surrounding. 

As night fell, I headed out in search of 

a meal. Luanda’s cuisine is famous for its 

strong Portuguese and Brazilian influences, 

with signature seafood dishes. For those on 

a culinary adventure, sampling traditional 

Angolan dishes like Funge ( dish made with 

cassava flour) and Muamba de Galinha 

(aromatic chicken stew) are a must. I played it 

safe with the fresh lobster curry eaten on the 

rugged wooden deck of the contemporary 

Cafe del Mar, situated near the end of the 

Ilha do Cabo. 

Make no mistake, Angola is outrageously 

expensive and difficult to travel around, 

but is absolutely raw in every sense of the 

word. Hidden within its borders lie mystical 

waterfalls, impenetrable equatorial rainforests 

and isolated beaches. It is an unexplored 

paradise and so as the Angolan Proverb 

goes: “The mysterious road beckons the 

young man”. I know I will return; sooner rather 

than later. 



CONSERVATION 

E 

buru Forest was gazetted 

in 1936 and falls under 

the Mau Forests Complex 

which is fully managed 

by the Kenya Forestry 

Services (KFS). Compared 

to other forests, Eburu is a 

small forest of 8,700 hectares on the rolling 

foothills, deep valleys and steep slopes 

of little known Mount Eburu. This prime 

indigenous forest nestles within the folds of a 

geologically active volcanic mountain which 

overlooks Lake Naivasha, Lake Elementaita 

and Lake Nakuru, and is the source of the 

Ndabibi River, numerous streams and ground 

springs. 

Most motorists zoom past on the Nakuru 

highway not realising that travelling along 

the North Lake Road towards the Rift 

Valley Lodge, on the northern side of Lake 

Naivasha, it is easy to get to the Eburu 

Forest. Those of us who have visited have 

been delighted to find this tranquil forest and 

have spent a relaxed day either exploring, 

bird watching, hiking or picnicking in the 

glade. 

Leaving the tarmac close to the Rift Valley 

Lodge you head continually uphill for 12km 

on a reasonable dirt road, following the 

KenGen Eburu Geothermal Power Station 

signs, passing through farmlands growing a 

wide range of food-crops. The countryside 

is dotted with dwellings, village shops and 

rural schools. It comes as a surprise to see 

the steam bellowing from the geothermal 

plant just inside the Eburu Gate, making you 

realise just how active this mountain really is. 

Entering the calm, green forest the track 

narrows considerably and you drive down 

fern-lined tracks and through tree tunnels 

into the heart of the reserve. Stepping into 

the forest is like entering another world. You 

leave all the fuss and stresses of a busy life 

behind, to be greeted with the tranquillity 

and fragrance of nature. Branches covered 

in lichen hang over ferns and vines tangle 

themselves around the majestic trees 

towering above. The earthy smell of damp 

ground combined with fallen leaves has an 

instant calming effect. 

Continuing along the track it leads you 

into thick upland forest and down scenic 

valleys until you reach the forest glade. Pack 

a picnic, bring binoculars, a book or simply 

ON THE RADAR: 

EBURU FOREST 

Eburu Forest is a treasure of the Great Rift Valley and that is why the Rhino Ark 

Charitable Trust stepped in and is engaged in a major long-term conservation exercise to 

preserve and sustainably manage it, writes Diane McLeish 

doze off for an afternoon nap in the dappled 

light of the forest canopy. While a day trip is 

wonderful, a weekend is better as you can 

camp overnight. There are no facilities so 

everything needs to be brought in, including 

water. For those who don’t want to camp, 

there are plenty of accommodation options 

around Lake Naivasha. 

The forest is a paradise for bird watchers 

as it has a rich variety of upland birds. The 

delightful walking trails plus the opportunity 

of having knowledgeable birding guides 

makes this forest an appealing destination. It 

is also the home to an extraordinary diversity 

of butterflies, moths and insects as well as 

over 40 species of mammals. 

As rich and diverse as this ecosystem is, 

the forest hasn’t always been so blessed. 

Deforestation had been ruthless especially in 

the 90s. It was heavily damaged due to 50% 

deforestation from unauthorised logging, 

charcoal production and fires and by 

bushmeat poaching and livestock invasion. 

Eburu Forest is a treasure of the Great 

Rift Valley and that is why the Rhino Ark 

Charitable Trust stepped in and is engaged 

in a major long-term conservation exercise 

to preserve and sustainably manage it. 

Forests are the water towers of Kenya 

and since the 43.3 km electric fence 

was completed in 2014 there have been 

significant improvements in natural forest 

regeneration in Eburu. The partners of KFS: 

Rhino Ark Charitable Trust, Kenya Wildlife 

Services, M-PESA Foundation and Flamingo 

Horticulture have been instrumental in 

fundraising and promoting conservation of 

Eburu Forest. 

Local communities have benefitted from 

the success of the fence through activities 

such as eco-tourism, honey production from 

the 1,000 beehives within the forest and 

other conservation-related activities. Farmers 

have reported less human-wildlife conflict 

as crop raiding animals like the buffaloes 

and bush pigs are confined to the forest. 

This has resulted in safer living conditions 

and improved crops. A wildlife corridor and 

dispersal area has been opened up through 

Loldia farm to the shores of Lake Naivasha. 

There are no more cattle in the forest and no 

dead wood is allowed out. 

What you will now see is commitment, not 

just from the conservationists and donors but 

from the local Eburu communities who are 

proud of its revival and growing reputation. 

Communities who were once seen as 

opposing conservation are now important 

partners and see themselves to be custodians 

of the forest. 

And there is more good news…… 

The habitat of undisturbed mountain 

forest, steep valleys, springs and waterfalls 

make this precious ecosystem the ideal home 

for about 12 mountain bongo thought to be 

surviving here. This represents 10% of global 

wild population of the critically endangered 

bongo. While still far from secure, the bongo 

is being given every chance to bounce back 

from the brink of extinction. 

Patrols have removed hundreds of snares 

and traps. Remote camera “traps” and 

GPS devices have been placed and are 

being monitored by the Bongo Surveillance 

Project. They patrol the forest checking the 

40 cameras and give feedback on their 

findings. Translocation into the forest of other 

mountain bongo may be the only way to 

preserve this species. 

Eburu Rafiki, the forest community group, 

supports the rejuvenation of the forest 

reserve. During May 2019, they planted 

11000 seedlings on the lower slopes of 

the denuded mountain. They don’t just 

plant seedlings but husband the plants by 

weeding, watering, inspecting and replacing 

any damaged ones. 

The attraction of this forest is to walk in 

it while taking in the remarkable natural 

scenery. There are six trails, all of special 

interest, which take in some of the most 

beautiful scenery within the forest. The trails 

vary in distance covered and steepness as 

well as difficulty. The two longest trails are 

the summit routes which are about 6km long 

taking between four to six hours to complete. 

There are four other trails taking from two 

to four hours to complete as well as shorter 

walks to the crater and around the glade. 

TIP: Get The Mau Eburu Forest Guide, which 

can be purchased at the entrance as well 

as other locations, to help you navigate this 

forest. 


With an array of African 

art, textiles, jewellery, 

music instruments and 

more collected from over 

20 African countries, 

coupled with its unique 

architecture inspired by 

the traditional mud houses 

across the continent, 

African Heritage House 

is indeed an art lover’s 

paradise. 

HOME IS WHERE 

THE ART IS 

Text: Wendy Watta Photography: Brian Siambi

SPOTLIGHT 

This property overlooks the 

Nairobi National Park where 

a pair of binoculars reveal 

a dazzle of zebra pottering 

about in the distance. A cargo 

train chugs across. Our host, 

dressed in a kofia and bright 

red tye-dye African print shirt befitting of the 

surroundings, plays a recording of owner 

Alan Donovan’s voice on a portable radio. 

By Alan’s account, the shade under which 

we presently stand is cast by a so-called 

wedding tree, because love-birds would 

get off the train to come get married in this 

very spot. I momentarily zone off and start 

to daydream about a couple that may have 

eloped to come get hitched here in the early 

2000s... 

Our group of four 

then moves to the 

mazeras-lined pool 

where I’m instantly 

drawn to a metallic 

‘Roaming Lady’ 

sculpture which stands 

out because it has some 

of the older handheld 

mobile phones. I 

remember having 

one of those in high 

school, and sending a 

text message was like 

thumb wrestling. Across 

from it stands a blue 

human-sized sculpture 

called ‘Three in One’ by 

Ugandan artist Francis 

Nnaggenda. The pool itself is surrounded 

by smaller sculptures, a favourite being a 

crested crane (the bird found in Uganda’s 

flag, done by an artist paying homage to his 

country) which overlooks the park. 

The structure of this building is Swahili, 

and it is adorned in everything from sisalwoven 

fishing nets which were used along 

the coast, a Luo spear and a Maasai shield 

made from real buffalo hide. The adjacent 

pool changing house is equally as striking, 

with Kisii soapstone pieces, a Lamu door, 

Tinga Tinga art whose origins are in 

Tanzania, and much more. 

We then shuffle to the mustard-yellow 

main house which is the main attraction. It 

is based on the pre-colonial mud houses 

of Africa, drawing inspiration from all 

over. The part facing the road is based on 

Northern Nigeria and the park-facing side 

is inspired by Mali, specifically the mud 

mosques of Timbuktu and the Grand Mosque 

in Djenne. Etched on the exterior walls are 

geometric designs apparently drawn from 

Ghana. Stepping inside, you can understand 

why African Heritage House claims to be 

the most photographed house in Africa 

having appeared on the cover of Marie 

Claire, being the first house in Africa to be 

featured in Architectural Digest, among other 

accolades. 

The house is filled with instruments, 

fabrics, jewellery, tools and other artifacts 

collected everywhere from Congo to Egypt 

and beyond. Standout pieces are from 

Turkana, curved by women who only had 

shields and knives to work with yet the 

craftsmanship is remarkable. I also find the 

ibeji dolls handmade by Yoruba women 

rather fascinating, as is the peculiar history 

of multiple births surrounding them. 

We head upstairs to talk to Alan, an 

American who first arrived in Africa in 

1967 as an army officer during the Nigeria- 

Biafra war. He says he was actually made 

a Yoruba chief in Nigeria and has the 

photos and accompanying paraphenalia to 

prove it. He then resigned two years later, 

bought a volkswagen in Paris which he then 

drove across the Sahara back to Nigeria, 

collecting art from everywhere he went. 

Later selling the car, he made a collection of 

everything he had curated and brought them 

to Nairobi. Friends at the embassy urged 

him to set up a collection because a lot of 

people had not seen those items, not even in 

the Nairobi Museum. His first exhibition was 

therefore in 1970. 

He would then team up with Joseph 

Murumbi, Kenya’s second vice president and 

an avid private collector, whose dream it 

was to open a Pan-African center in Nairobi 

where all the creativity of the continent could 

be seen. Together they opened African 

Heritage Gallery in the CBD along Kenyatta 

Avenue (where the I&M building currently 

stands) and for years, it was a huge success. 

“We always had at least 600 people 

everyday, and that’s only because the fire 

department wouldn't allow us to have more,” 

says Alan. 

The museum burned down in 1996 

and just like that, all the stock was gone 

and it took some years to rebuild. When 

Alan finally bought the current property in 

Kitengela, he slept on the floor of his house 

for a year because he had to go to 20 

countries to curate again. The process of 

buying stock and building the main house 

took five years to complete. 

He is currently working on a magnificent 

museum beside the house, and it is based on 

the last oasis in the sahara desert where the 

salt caravans passed through...it was one of 

the few routes where people entered africa, 

long before ships. 

African Heritage House is available for 

tours, meals (breakfast, lunch, and dinners 

on the rooftop or by the refreshing pool), 

conferences/functions, as well as overnight 

stays in its luxurious rooms filled with African 

art and furnished with modern appointments. 



ORNELLA HOUSE is a 5 bedroom villa located in Malindi. 

Just 2.6 km from Malindi Marine National Park and a few 

kilometrese from the old Portuguese Chapel, as and Vasco da 

Gama Pillar. This villa is suitable for groups of friends or family 

who want a quiet escape thats 5 minutes from the beach. 

WHITE 

NYUMBA 

LUXURY PEARL WHITE VILLA! 

Hear nothing but sounds of nature in this elegant 4 bedroom 

villa, there’s a spacious outside living area and a pool. A lovely 

outside seating area on the top floor of the villa that gives 

just the perfect blend of indoor and outdoor. 

White Nyumba offers you a private pool, a personal butler on 

request and a bbq station. 

DECEMBER BOOKINGS ACCEPTED 

Tel: +254722166613 & +254722688026 

rashmi_raipal@hotmail.com shalinirajpal@yahoo.com 

White Nyumba.indd 1 12/09/2019 18:23 

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EARLY BIRD RATES 

ADVERTISE 

WITH US 

Email for special rates. 

vanessa@nomadmagazineafrica.com 


WHAT I PACK 

Vanessa Wanjiku is a vivacious and laid back personality, and when she’s not 

traveling, she works as the Head of Sales at Nomad. 

MISS DIOR PERFUME - This is one of my favourite scents! I love roses and 

this is very floral, which I like. It’s also small enough to carry around in my 

travel bag. 

MAC BOOK AIR - Being a salesperson, the work never stops. In any new 

town when I’m meeting clients, I find moments in between when I go to a 

quiet cafe or if I’m lucky, hang out at a beach and enjoy some sunshine 

while catching up on emails. 

WALLET - I have this really durable wallet that I got from Mr Price and I 

carry it around to organise business cards as well as hold some of mine 

because I get to meet so many people on the job 

BOUNTY CHOCOLATE BAR - I love to snack and when I’ve been running 

around all day, it’s always nice to have a quick pick me up 

MAYBELLINE MASCARA - You have to look presentable on the job, and this 

volumizing mascara is always a go-to 

WHITE NGOMA SHOES FROM BATA - They class up any outfit and are 

perfect for running around, whether I’m working or hiking up a hill. 

LOUBOUTIN NUDE HEELS - When the work is done, the heels come out. 

JBL HEADPHONES - I love music and I’m constantly listening to 2pac...that 

gets me through the day. 

BLACK LEATHER JACKET FROM TOI MARKET - It’s a staple item in my 

wardrobe and goes with so many of my outfits. 

BIBLE - Mine is golden covered and was gifted to me by my mum. I like 

taking some time in the day to read a verse or two. 



Book your next beach break. 

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