The plan is to join our photographers Brian and Trevor on a sunrise-chasing mission, but when I get a call from the former at about 5:15 am the next morning saying that our tuk tuk is waiting at the hotel gate, I seriously contemplate shutting off my phone and sinking deeper into the warm bosom of my comfortable double bed at Malindi Dream Garden. I often find it easy to catch the sunset, because if I’m at the coast, I am likely to be strategically placed at the best seat in some beachside or cliff-top bar with two daiquiris singing a catchy pop song in my head. A sunrise is often caught if it so happens to wash through the large windows of a cozy room I’m staying in, but actually having to rise up early for one is a concept I’ve never understood. Yet, I’ve seen enough photographers nearfanatically plan for one with the seriousness of Jack Bauer trying to find a bomb hidden somewhere in the city in 24. Walking down the Malindi pier barely 10 minutes after getting up, I am instantly sucked into vibe here. A man holding the hands of his two little daughters on either side strolls past me and the trio position themselves at the end of the pier facing the water in wait of the sun. Another rides his bicycle back and forth as though either restless or exercising. Two tall guys, abs in full display, do their burpees on the pavement, and let’s just say that I can see how a tourist from a faraway land would be drawn to these ‘oh so exotic’ beach boys. At this point, the sky is yellow and orange and pink but the sun is still playing peekaboo, so I decide to walk down to the sand which, much like the rest of Malindi, has black deposits and is speckled with micah, aka fools gold, which glitters in the sand. A group of boys play football close to the water, and every so often, the ball is kicked into the sea and someone has to dive in and body-surf the waves to retrieve it. When the blazing ball of orange does take to the skies with such boldness and aplomb, we all come to a standstill as though watching the ultimate flag being raised. Malindi sunrises are incredible, and as an apology to photographers for everything I said before this mission, I get it. Really, I do. In some rather stark ways, this town has changed from what it was three years ago when I spent quite a bit of time here on a family holiday. If ever there was a place where the hotel industry took a hit along the coast, it would be this. Once-popular spots like Coral Key, one of the oldest hotels in the town and where I remember us struggling to find space and thereafter stuffing our faces with heaps of cheese-packed pasta, are no more. Others like Eden Roc, Beverly key and more also closed down. Italians, who would come down in large numbers, have also reduced from this town which was once deemed as ‘Kenya’s little Italy’. Still, their influence is just as tangibly noticeable in the food and even signage language Things seem to be looking up, particularly this year, as Malindi seeks to return to its former glory. Keen to rediscover the town, I hop on a boda boda to the Vasco da Gama pillar which I first visited during a history class field trip as a teenager. During a candid conversation, a hotelier at one spot we passed by had confided that they thought it was a run down place that they hadn’t taken their guests to for years, a sentiment I heard echoed a few times. On personal inspection, however, I thought it to be fine, and a tunnel underneath it led us to a beach where we were lucky to spot some starfish. Gede Ruins, the remnants of an ancient Swahili town, are still a worthwhile visit for culture buffs. Keen to find out some history, I head to the museum which proves to be a rather underwhelming experience. It is 5:00 pm and there is no one to show me around as all the guides have apparently gone home. I am instructed to ‘just walk around and see’, and when I ask about the history, get the noncommittal ‘if you know about the popular history of Mombasa then that’s pretty much it”. Still, the charm of this quaint town is not lost on me, and for the discerning traveler, Malindi has a lot to offer. As of this year, tourism is looking up yet again and spots like Malindi Dream Garden where we stayed are bustling with guests. Having spent one glorious week exploring its beaches and tucking into its food (both at the nice restaurants in town and that roadside kibanda where a lovely Swahili woman sold me viazi karai with tangy tamarind sauce), what follows are some things that we did during our trip and that are worth adding to your itinerary. 28 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE
A group of boys play football close to the water, and every so often, the ball is kicked into the sea and someone has to dive in to retrieve it NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 29
Change language