30 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE
THE LOW-DOWN ON MALINDI HIDDEN GEM SABAKI RIVER ESTUARY We had heard that the Sabaki River is a haven for flamingos, and that the best spot to take in the view was at the bridge, and so we ask our regular tuk tuk driver Mohamed to take us there. This place turns out to be exactly as advertised, but as Trevor is setting up his drone, a man runs up to us, introduces himself as a guide and tells us that there is an even better secret spot, one where the river meets the sea and where the view is tenfold. This man, Karisa, tells us that it is about 10 minutes off the main road, and that our tuk tuk can make it there, so without much convincing, we follow him. We turn into a blink-and-you-will-miss-it-path and follow the meandering river whose banks are so muddy that I think we will certainly tumble over in this rickshaw, but we only ever get stuck. Moments later we come to the base of a huge sand dune where the tuk tuk can’t go any further, and as we follow Karisa up one sand dune and the next, I can’t help but wonder if I’m a lamb walking altogether too willingly into slaughter. Mohamed, too, says he has never been to this place, and while I’m starting to panic inside whilst wondering if he might be in on whatever this is, on the outside, I am the definition of calm and collected. Then our group walks up to the most beautiful enclave I’ve seen in Malindi, where the river stretches a hand out to greet the sea but ever so slightly misses - so near yet so far! The ocean forcefully crashes into the land as if it has a personal vendetta that the wind is egging on. There are ridges left in the sand by the tide, and I quite enjoy sinking my feet into the little pools scattered all over. A big flock of flamingos paint the shoreline white in their plumage, and as we approach, they flap their wings as though part of a wellrehearsed orchestra and fly off to the other shore. Karisa informs us that this is an important birding area, and that hippos are also found in this region. This estuary, which overlooks Malindi town, is certainly worth the trip. Karisa Benjamin (Guide)- 0711849742 WHERE TO EAT BEACHSIDE: Osteria Beach House - This English colonial-style house is set right on Silversand beach, and when we stopped by for lunch, we dined al fresco under the cool shade of a tree. If you dine at only two places in town, stop by this spot or their other outlet in town which has the best ice creams around. There is a swimming pool but you can also dip in the sea then lounge on the sunbeds. Service is fast and friendly and the food is worth writing home about, especially the deep fried calamari, and our group also tried tuna and a salad, pasta and pizza crowned with ice cream. There’s a stand where a local man selling handmade souvenirs. He is so convincing that weeks after my trip, I still don’t remember how I bought four brass rings from him. FOR DINNER: Bar Bar Restaurant & Bar - Bar Bar came recommended several times by residents, so we made a reservation. Set right next to the road, it is open to the front side ( imagine the great people watching during the day!) and is also quite spacious. There was a lively game of football showing on the screens. As soon as we sat down, an elderly Italian guy, presumably the manager, brought menus to our table, handing them to the ladies first - what a gentleman! The menu is very Italian, so expect pasta, pizza, gelato, tiramisu and the works. The ragu pizza is highly recommended. FOR LOCAL FOOD: Taheri Fast Foods - This is a small but prominent restaurant run by Tasneem Mohsin and her husband and sons. It is always bustling, which speaks to its popularity. The food is good and cheerfully affordable. Tasneem makes a mean baked mutton leg, and the menu being Indian and Swahili, I like to pass by for their mandazi, viazi, bhajia, kaimati and the works. FOR SEAFOOD: Che Shale - 20 km North of Malindi, this spot might be popular for kitesurfing, but foodies will know it for its organic crab farm to plate experience. In an environment best described as castaway-chic, this passion project by owner Justin offers massive mangrove crab served in various ways blended with local flavours and spices. If you’ve never had soft shell crab fried until golden crispy with a dab of mango salsa, or the perfect crab cakes, this place is it. NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 31