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THE LOW-DOWN ON MALINDI<br />
HIDDEN GEM<br />
SABAKI RIVER ESTUARY<br />
We had heard that the Sabaki River is a haven for flamingos, and<br />
that the best spot to take in the view was at the bridge, and so we<br />
ask our regular tuk tuk driver Mohamed to take us there. This place<br />
turns out to be exactly as advertised, but as Trevor is setting up his<br />
drone, a man runs up to us, introduces himself as a guide and tells us<br />
that there is an even better secret spot, one where the river meets the<br />
sea and where the view is tenfold. This man, Karisa, tells us that it is<br />
about 10 minutes off the main road, and that our tuk tuk can make<br />
it there, so without much convincing, we follow him. We turn into a<br />
blink-and-you-will-miss-it-path and follow the meandering river whose<br />
banks are so muddy that I think we will certainly tumble over in this<br />
rickshaw, but we only ever get stuck.<br />
Moments later we come to the base of a huge sand dune where<br />
the tuk tuk can’t go any further, and as we follow Karisa up one sand<br />
dune and the next, I can’t help but wonder if I’m a lamb walking<br />
altogether too willingly into slaughter. Mohamed, too, says he has<br />
never been to this place, and while I’m starting to panic inside whilst<br />
wondering if he might be in on whatever this is, on the outside, I am<br />
the definition of calm and collected.<br />
Then our group walks up to the most beautiful enclave I’ve seen<br />
in Malindi, where the river stretches a hand out to greet the sea<br />
but ever so slightly misses - so near yet so far! The ocean forcefully<br />
crashes into the land as if it has a personal vendetta that the wind<br />
is egging on. There are ridges left in the sand by the tide, and I<br />
quite enjoy sinking my feet into the little pools scattered all over. A<br />
big flock of flamingos paint the shoreline white in their plumage,<br />
and as we approach, they flap their wings as though part of a wellrehearsed<br />
orchestra and fly off to the other shore. Karisa informs us<br />
that this is an important birding area, and that hippos are also found<br />
in this region. This estuary, which overlooks Malindi town, is certainly<br />
worth the trip. Karisa Benjamin (Guide)- 0711849742<br />
WHERE TO EAT<br />
BEACHSIDE: Osteria Beach House - This English colonial-style house<br />
is set right on Silversand beach, and when we stopped by for lunch,<br />
we dined al fresco under the cool shade of a tree. If you dine at only<br />
two places in town, stop by this spot or their other outlet in town<br />
which has the best ice creams around.<br />
There is a swimming pool but you can also dip in the sea then<br />
lounge on the sunbeds. Service is fast and friendly and the food is<br />
worth writing home about, especially the deep fried calamari, and<br />
our group also tried tuna and a salad, pasta and pizza crowned<br />
with ice cream. There’s a stand where a local man selling handmade<br />
souvenirs. He is so convincing that weeks after my trip, I still don’t<br />
remember how I bought four brass rings from him.<br />
FOR DINNER: Bar Bar Restaurant & Bar - Bar Bar came<br />
recommended several times by residents, so we made a reservation.<br />
Set right next to the road, it is open to the front side ( imagine the<br />
great people watching during the day!) and is also quite spacious.<br />
There was a lively game of football showing on the screens. As soon<br />
as we sat down, an elderly Italian guy, presumably the manager,<br />
brought menus to our table, handing them to the ladies first - what a<br />
gentleman! The menu is very Italian, so expect pasta, pizza, gelato,<br />
tiramisu and the works. The ragu pizza is highly recommended.<br />
FOR LOCAL FOOD: Taheri Fast Foods - This is a small but prominent<br />
restaurant run by Tasneem Mohsin and her husband and sons. It is<br />
always bustling, which speaks to its popularity. The food is good<br />
and cheerfully affordable. Tasneem makes a mean baked mutton<br />
leg, and the menu being Indian and Swahili, I like to pass by for their<br />
mandazi, viazi, bhajia, kaimati and the works.<br />
FOR SEAFOOD: Che Shale - 20 km North of Malindi, this spot might<br />
be popular for kitesurfing, but foodies will know it for its organic<br />
crab farm to plate experience. In an environment best described as<br />
castaway-chic, this passion project by owner Justin offers massive<br />
mangrove crab served in various ways blended with local flavours<br />
and spices. If you’ve never had soft shell crab fried until golden<br />
crispy with a dab of mango salsa, or the perfect crab cakes, this<br />
place is it.<br />
NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 31
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