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Creative HEAD Christmas 2019

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£4.50 CHRISTMAS <strong>2019</strong><br />

It’s playtime!<br />

COLOUR TO THRILL EVERYONE THIS SEASON…


Tempting<br />

TRANSFORMATIONS<br />

WELLA PROFESSIONALS NO STRINGS ATTACHED COLOUR<br />

OFFERS BEAUTIFUL COLOUR WITH MINIMAL COMMITMENT


No Strings Attached Colour from<br />

Wella Professionals allows you<br />

to transform your client in just<br />

10 minutes. Hair is infused using<br />

Koleston Perfect ME+ then deeply<br />

conditioned for a gorgeous finish.<br />

It’s the ultimate in cost-effective<br />

colour services, ideal for tempting<br />

the colour-shy or offering a twist on<br />

a regular client’s look.<br />

CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong> ADVERTORIAL<br />

Hair by Robert Eaton, Wella Professionals UK & Ireland technical director. Make-up by Lucy Flower. Styling by Clare Frith. Photography by Ben Ottewell<br />

“I love quick colour services as they<br />

open doors for so many types of<br />

clients. No Strings Attached Colour is<br />

quick, affordable and low commitment.<br />

Mixing is super-simple and it’s perfect<br />

for those who want to experiment as<br />

well as colour-shy clients you’ve been<br />

trying to win over, or even those in<br />

need of a quick colour refresh”<br />

ROBERT EATON,<br />

WELLA PROFESSIONALS UK & IRELAND TECHNICAL DIRECTOR<br />

1 part Koleston Perfect ME+<br />

1 part Welloxon Perfect 1.9% Pastel Developer<br />

1 part INVIGO Post Color Treatment<br />

Get the look<br />

STEP ONE – CHOOSE<br />

Choose your colour and shampoo the hair<br />

STEP THREE – MIX AND APPLY<br />

One part Koleston Perfect ME+, one part<br />

Welloxon Perfect 1.9% Pastel Developer,<br />

one part INVIGO Post Color Treatment<br />

STEP TWO – SECTION<br />

Section the hair<br />

STEP FOUR – DEVELOP<br />

Develop for between five and 10 minutes<br />

FORMULATIONS<br />

FORMULA A<br />

● 9g Koleston Perfect ME+ 10/95+1g 0/65<br />

● 10ml Welloxon Perfect 1.9% Pastel Developer<br />

● 10ml INVIGO Post Color Treatment<br />

FORMULA B<br />

● 20g Koleston Perfect ME+ 10/95 full head and<br />

hairline<br />

● 20ml Welloxon Perfect 1.9% Pastel Developer<br />

● 20ml INVIGO Post Color Treatment<br />

FORMULA C<br />

@wellahairuk #WellaColour #ColourFlirt<br />

● 10g Koleston Perfect ME+ 9/04<br />

● 10ml Welloxon Perfect 1.9% Pastel Developer<br />

● 10ml INVIGO Post Color Treatment<br />

ROB’S<br />

TOP TIP<br />

Leave a small section of the hairline to<br />

finish your application. This will create a<br />

point of interest and soften the result<br />

STEP FIVE – RINSE<br />

No need to shampoo, simply rinse and style<br />

Wella Professionals


Refresh<br />

FOR SUCCESS<br />

REINVIGORATE YOUR COLOUR MENU, LEARN NEW SKILLS AND ADVANCE<br />

YOUR COLOUR CREATIONS WITH THESE INSPIRING WELLA COURSES<br />

Colour Clinic<br />

Book in for an appointment to the Colour<br />

Clinic and enjoy an advanced craft session<br />

with a Wella technical educator to solve any<br />

colour conundrum you might have. The oneon-one<br />

sessions will diagnose and prescribe<br />

the perfect formula to help you create colour<br />

you can’t quite crack.<br />

HOW? Bring your client and complete the<br />

colour service at the Wella Studio and get<br />

bespoke recommendations and specific<br />

guidance for the perfect finish.<br />

WHO? Any confident stylist or colourist<br />

frustrated by a colour challenge they<br />

can’t overcome.<br />

Master Color Programme<br />

This course has transformed the lives of thousands of colourists across the<br />

globe, helping them grow their professional skills and business. It takes six to<br />

nine months to complete and is designed to elevate you from a good colourist<br />

to an industry-leading colour creative. Stretch your creative mind and gain<br />

practical skills to give your salon colour business a serious boost.<br />

HOW? It’s taught through a mix of face-to-face sessions<br />

with top educators supported by the innovative<br />

eEducation online platform.<br />

WHO? You need a minimum five years’ colour experience<br />

and to have completed Essential Colour, Corrective Colour<br />

and <strong>Creative</strong> & Freehand Colouring courses.


Dom Capel<br />

CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong> ADVERTORIAL<br />

Colour Genius<br />

This is an opportunity to push your creativity beyond its<br />

current limits and expand your skillset with of-the-moment<br />

techniques. Learn how to effectively match colour placement<br />

to haircut, face shape and skin tone and get to know the<br />

trending colour palettes to stay ahead of the competition.<br />

HOW? A two-day interactive course with head blocks as well<br />

as live models in interactive workshops.<br />

WHO? If you’re competent with colour but itching to challenge<br />

yourself then Colour Genius is for you.<br />

Leonardo Rizzo<br />

Jayson Gray<br />

Colour Masterclass<br />

This Master Craft course is all about exploring editorial colour.<br />

Think fashion-forward techniques from magazines and on<br />

stage. This is your opportunity to have your creativity sparked<br />

by top colourists including Clayde Baumann, Edward Darley,<br />

Robert Eaton, Siobhan Golden and Jayson Gray.<br />

HOW? A one-day course of interactive tutorials and<br />

demonstrations including workshops with live models.<br />

WHO? Anyone who is in need of some inspiration or those<br />

looking to move into more session or editorial work.<br />

VISIT EDUCATION.WELLA.COM OR CONTACT YOUR LOCAL WELLA STUDIO FOR MORE INFORMATION


Fancy a<br />

CHANGE?<br />

NO STRINGS ATTACHED<br />

COLOUR IS SIMPLE.<br />

IN JUST THREE STEPS<br />

YOUR GUEST CAN HAVE<br />

EVERYTHING FROM A NEW<br />

COLOUR TO A REFRESH.<br />

BUT DON’T JUST TAKE OUR<br />

WORD FOR IT…<br />

“It’s an exciting<br />

opportunity to grow<br />

our business because<br />

not every client wants<br />

to commit – and not<br />

everyone has time!”<br />

LEANNE FERGUSON,<br />

STARLIGHT, INVERURIE<br />

“It’s given us an<br />

opportunity to attract<br />

younger clients with<br />

smaller budgets and<br />

more desire for colour<br />

experimentation”<br />

DYMPNA COYNE,<br />

BELLISSIMO, GALWAY<br />

“This service is sheer<br />

luxury for tired hair<br />

that’s lacking colour,<br />

shine and lustre.<br />

My team love<br />

getting involved!”<br />

SARAH MASON, SARAH MASON<br />

PROFESSIONAL, GALWAY<br />

DISCOVER HOW NO STRINGS ATTACHED COLOUR CAN TRANSFORM YOUR BUSINESS AND THRILL CLIENTS.<br />

CONTACT YOUR WELLA PROFESSIONALS SALES REP OR CALL YOUR LOCAL WELLA STUDIO:<br />

LONDON – 020 3650 4700 MANCHESTER – 0161 8342645 DUBLIN – 01 416 0900<br />

@wellahairuk #WellaColour #ColourFlirt<br />

Wella Professionals<br />

DISCOVER THE PRODUCTS AT UK.WELLASTORE.COM


CREATIVE<strong>HEAD</strong>MAG.COM<br />

MAGAZINE EDUCATION EVENTS INSPIRATION CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong> STORE COMPETITIONS<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Exploring the link between image and attitude, CHAINED<br />

by Alex Azurmendi evokes the spirit of Spain’s ‘cani’ culture<br />

In conversation with… Sarah Mason.<br />

Press play on the latest in our series of<br />

films, where we chat all things huerelated<br />

with Wella Guest Artists<br />

Get the date in your diary – The Coterie<br />

returns on 27 January 2020 with a<br />

London line-up hot enough to thaw<br />

even the most winter-numbed creativity<br />

Disappointing. Disrespectful. And<br />

downright sub-standard. Stay tuned on<br />

18 November as Ky Wilson opens the<br />

doors to a unique event…<br />

creativeheadmag.com<br />

creativeheadmagofficial<br />

@creativeheadmag


A NEW ERA IN<br />

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Powered by lithium-ion, this cordless<br />

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For more information email<br />

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FOR MORE DETAILS CONTACT CUSTOMER SERVICES<br />

UK 020 7391 7440 Customersevice.uk@revlon.com<br />

IRELAND 018869300 Customerservice.ire@revlon.com<br />

REVLONPROFESSIONALUK<br />

AQUAMARIS<br />

COMPLEX<br />

Eksperience is the first professional<br />

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Editor’s letter<br />

62<br />

22<br />

73<br />

AS VITAL AS your creative and technical skills are, to be a<br />

successful hairdresser with a loyal clientele you need to be able to<br />

make a real connection. When clients are in your chair, they’re putting<br />

their trust in you (you’re the one holding the sharpened blades near their<br />

head, after all). An appointment at the salon is actually an incredibly intimate<br />

exchange, with long periods of time where your hands are physically on them,<br />

your eyes examining their face in the mirror. Build the right rapport, and it’s no<br />

surprise that many stylists become a trusted confidante. Our Most Wanted Best<br />

Salon Experience winner, Michael Van Clarke, excels at the personal touch, never<br />

one to say no (find out more on page 54). And it’s this trust, this relationship, that<br />

can help clients experiencing confidence issues due to thinning hair and hair loss,<br />

to share their worries and the impact it has on their wellbeing with you. On page<br />

56 we examine how you can repay that trust with the right advice, services,<br />

products and understanding, to help those clients suffering win back their<br />

smiles. Perhaps it’s an area for your team to build upon in 2020, and as<br />

you start the busiest of times in the salon, the team at <strong>Creative</strong> <strong>HEAD</strong><br />

wishes you a merry <strong>Christmas</strong> and a prosperous New Year.<br />

Amanda Nottage<br />

Editor<br />

JOIN US!<br />

After a packed year of <strong>Creative</strong><br />

<strong>HEAD</strong> events, we thought<br />

why not round things off<br />

with Something substandard?<br />

An evening<br />

to underwhelm and<br />

unimpress in equal<br />

measure. And who<br />

better to mediate feelings<br />

of mediocrity than Ky<br />

Wilson. Bothered? Then<br />

head to page 50. On<br />

29 and 30 March 2020,<br />

our business networking<br />

event Salon Smart is back in<br />

London and this time the hot<br />

topic is progress! If you want to<br />

re-energise business body and<br />

mind, we suggest you secure<br />

your place now, turn to pages<br />

33 and 35 to 37. See more at<br />

creativeheadmag.com/events<br />

amanda@alfol.co.uk creativeheadmag.com creativeheadmagofficial<br />

@creativeheadmag


ASPhair.com


001 Outliers_Issue3_Cover_GW4.indd 1 10/10/<strong>2019</strong> 15:02<br />

<strong>Christmas</strong><br />

WHAT’S INSIDE<br />

66<br />

FASHION<br />

Christabel Legrand<br />

and Luka Chitty<br />

channel a future<br />

grunge aesthetic<br />

68<br />

54<br />

MICHAEL VAN CLARKE<br />

We talk to the salon supremo about how<br />

to make the most luxurious journey for<br />

your client<br />

SCENE<br />

Goldwell’s Global<br />

Zoom goes to<br />

Vienna, Aveda<br />

Worldhood 2.0<br />

begins and The<br />

Coterie heads<br />

to Liverpool<br />

ON THE COVER<br />

Hair by Robert Eaton for<br />

Wella Professionals<br />

Outliers<br />

THE<br />

The innovators and salons<br />

disrupting the status quo<br />

Issue 03/<strong>2019</strong><br />

EDITOR<br />

AMANDA NOTTAGE<br />

DEPUTY EDITOR<br />

DEBORAH MURTHA<br />

STAFF WRITER<br />

ANNA SAMSON<br />

COMMERCIAL EDITOR<br />

EVE WAGSTAFF<br />

ART DIRECTOR<br />

NICK JABBAL<br />

CHIEF SUB EDITOR<br />

ADAM WOOD<br />

DIGITAL DESIGNER<br />

EVA VESTMANN<br />

ONLINE AND<br />

DIGITAL ASSISTANT<br />

KELSEY DRING<br />

ONLINE AND<br />

DIGITAL EDITOR<br />

ALISON ROWLEY<br />

CLASSIFIED EXECUTIVE<br />

DAVID HAMMOND<br />

SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER<br />

JENNY BROOKS<br />

SPECIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR<br />

JOANNA ANDERSEN<br />

PUBLISHER<br />

CATHERINE HANDCOCK<br />

<strong>Creative</strong> <strong>HEAD</strong> is printed on<br />

paper certifi ed as being from<br />

sustainable sources using only<br />

vegetable-based inks. Printed<br />

by Buxton Press, Environmental<br />

Printer of the Year and Printing<br />

Company of the Year.<br />

WRITE TO US AT:<br />

<strong>Creative</strong> <strong>HEAD</strong>,<br />

21 The Timberyard,<br />

Drysdale Street,<br />

London, N1 6ND<br />

020 7324 7540<br />

enquiries@alfol.co.uk<br />

<strong>Creative</strong> <strong>HEAD</strong> is published<br />

10 times a year by Alfol Ltd.<br />

<strong>Creative</strong> <strong>HEAD</strong> is a registered<br />

trademark. No part of this<br />

magazine may be reproduced<br />

without prior permission of the<br />

publisher. All information correct<br />

at time of going to press.<br />

Printing by Buxton Press<br />

creativeheadmag.com<br />

creativeheadmagofficial<br />

@creativeheadmag


World leading<br />

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To enquire about joining the elite and becoming a Great Lengths certified stylist visit<br />

GREATLENGTHSHAIR.CO.UK/BECOME-A-CERTIFIED-STYLIST


The edit<br />

THE NEWS AND KNOW-HOW FROM YOUR INDUSTRY<br />

GOVERNMENT<br />

‘MUST GO<br />

FURTHER’<br />

TO TACKLE<br />

BLACK ECONOMY<br />

E\S Project<br />

Tom Connell<br />

Tim Hartley<br />

Nick Irwin<br />

THE NHF/NBF has called for a proposed<br />

government employment body to do far more<br />

in terms of effective enforcement action<br />

against salons and individuals operating in<br />

the so-called black economy. The group was<br />

responding to news that the government has<br />

closed a consultation into the creation of a new<br />

‘Single Enforcement Body’ that would deal<br />

with employment rights including benefits<br />

and enforcing laws related to minimum wage.<br />

Hilary Hall, chief executive of the NHF/NBF,<br />

said: “We want to see the authorities targeting<br />

businesses that break all the rules and yet<br />

appear to get away with it. Our members<br />

feel that enforcement is too heavily focused<br />

on employers who make small mistakes<br />

when calculating minimum wages. We hear<br />

from members of competing with ‘cash in<br />

hand’ businesses, firms which employ illegal<br />

workers or even appear to be fronts for<br />

criminal activity.”<br />

The recent Queen’s speech also laid out<br />

a host of proposed new bills, including a<br />

pensions dashboard for gathering details of<br />

all previous pensions together in one place<br />

online, which won the NHF/NBF’s approval, as<br />

did added measures to help the environment.<br />

A statutory Code of Practice for tipping<br />

was also announced to replace the current<br />

voluntary code to standardise the practice.<br />

The NHF/NBF added it continues to work<br />

with other trade bodies to oppose a proposal<br />

for a minimum salary requirement of<br />

£30,000 for foreign workers in a post-Brexit<br />

immigration system.<br />

M.I.B<br />

Hairfucker<br />

NOISE show<br />

raises the roof<br />

RICHARD ASHFORTH’S guerrilla hairdressing event NOISE always brings<br />

bold and mind-bending hairdressing into the spotlight, and its latest London<br />

stop-off was no exception. The secret location was only revealed two hours<br />

before the show, building excitement for the seven incredible presentations.<br />

Anglo-French duo E\S Project, the Chinese team of M.I.B led by Robbie Liu,<br />

and Russian hair anarchists Hairfucker took avant-garde to new heights,<br />

before Tom Connell of Trevor Sorbie demonstrated stunning progressive<br />

shapes, adorned with veils of beaded metal. Nick Irwin also made his NOISE<br />

debut, before Tim Hartley and Tina Anderson’s presentation bared all. Peter<br />

Gray wrapped up the night with architectural hair structures which<br />

exuded conceptual chic and literal smoke.<br />

Pro hairdressers have fallen in love with the BaByliss 9000 cordless<br />

straightener as much as consumers! With a 30-minute run time at full power<br />

on just a three-hour charge, it’s perfect for session styling under pressure and<br />

in small venues.<br />

babylisspro.co.uk<br />

Peter Gray<br />

16


#CHedit<br />

MY months<br />

A<strong>HEAD</strong><br />

What <strong>Christmas</strong><br />

has in store for...<br />

<strong>2019</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

LADIES NIGHT AT<br />

LINTON & MAC<br />

WOMEN TOOK CENTRE STAGE at Linton &<br />

Mac’s Women Inspire event. The Linton & Mac<br />

team opened the salon to other small local<br />

businesses and more than 100 women turned<br />

up for an evening of girl power featuring a panel<br />

talk of inspiring leaders and a catwalk show. The<br />

gathering was a prime example of why this team<br />

won Most Wanted Best Local Salon <strong>2019</strong>, with<br />

their continual efforts to reach out to clients and<br />

local businesses.<br />

+4,004%<br />

The<br />

Lions Barbers Collective<br />

makes history<br />

THE LIONS BARBERS COLLECTIVE held<br />

a special Barbers Saving Lives event at the<br />

Barbers-Surgeons’ Hall in London – marking<br />

the first time in centuries hair had been cut<br />

at the historic site. MPs, the Lord Mayor of<br />

London and more were present to pledge<br />

support for the provision of spaces for men to<br />

talk, as well as enjoy a showcase of the work<br />

of The Lions Barber Collective, winner of the<br />

<strong>2019</strong> Most Wanted Award for Innovation.<br />

rise in searches<br />

for ‘braided hairstyles<br />

videos’ in the past 12<br />

months, according to<br />

a Pinterest report. Braids and braid tutorials are now some of the<br />

most searched-for topics, including bubble and hair scarf braids.<br />

SIMON HILL<br />

SESH HAIRDRESSING<br />

We are hosting a birthday<br />

party, #SESH15, to celebrate<br />

our 15th anniversary. In line<br />

with our brand ethos, all<br />

profi ts from the event will go<br />

to MND Scotland, the Motor<br />

Neurone Disease charity, as<br />

this is a cause very close to<br />

our hearts. The<br />

festive period<br />

brings a real<br />

buzz to the<br />

salon, it’s my<br />

favourite time<br />

of year!<br />

MELENIE TUDOR<br />

EN ROUTE HAIR & BEAUTY<br />

We’re launching a ‘reuse,<br />

recycle, refi ll’ green initiative.<br />

My target is to save 1,000<br />

product bottles from going<br />

to landfi ll by <strong>Christmas</strong>, so<br />

now we offer a product refi ll<br />

station. We’ve also launched<br />

the ‘En Route<br />

to Sustainability<br />

Promise’ for<br />

clients to<br />

pledge one<br />

new task to<br />

help the planet.<br />

The class of #MWIT19 dine out<br />

THE WINNERS OF the <strong>2019</strong> Most Wanted and The It List<br />

Awards gathered together at the super-cool Coal Drops<br />

Yard to celebrate their achievements. A month to the day<br />

following the awards, the dinner at Hicce was a chance for<br />

the attendees to get to know their fellow trophy holders,<br />

including Legends Dylan Bradshaw, Sophia Hilton and<br />

Lloyds Hair. The group tucked into sharing plates, snapped<br />

Polaroid keepsakes and toasted their achievements.<br />

IT’S BACK!<br />

OUR GAME-CHANGING<br />

BUSINESS NETWORKING<br />

EVENT IS BACK IN<br />

LONDON FOR 2020 –<br />

SEE MORE FROM PAGE 33<br />

MOVERS AND<br />

SHAKERS<br />

Grant Williams has<br />

joined ghd as regional<br />

key account educator<br />

for the UK and<br />

Republic of Ireland.<br />

The Hairdressers’<br />

Charity, previously<br />

known as the Hair And<br />

Beauty Benevolent<br />

(Habb), has rebranded<br />

as The Hair & Beauty<br />

Charity.<br />

18


DON’T GET IN A TANGLE<br />

Freelancing means taking charge on your finances,<br />

education, stock upkeep and more, all while working<br />

your socks off to build a business. It’s a lot!<br />

SELF/STYLED is our hub for freelance creatives and<br />

collaborators, full of business advice, product picks and<br />

inspiration to keep you running smoothly<br />

www.creativeheadmag.com/selfstyled


C H R I S T M A S<br />

S P E C I A L<br />

You’re spoilt for choice by<br />

Redken, with five <strong>Christmas</strong><br />

gift sets laying on<br />

the compliments!<br />

RRP FROM £36<br />

0800 085 4956<br />

redken.co.uk<br />

Tick all your client’s party hair needs with<br />

Aveda’s go-to styling cracker.<br />

RRP £18<br />

0800 0512979<br />

aveda.co.uk<br />

Clients buying<br />

a Kitoko Oil<br />

Treatment from<br />

ASP will be<br />

gifted this free<br />

luxury cosmetics<br />

bag. Slick!<br />

RRP £26.90<br />

01794 527111<br />

asphair.com<br />

Go shiny with a Gold Leaf<br />

or Smashed Holo Compact<br />

Styler from Tangle Teezer.<br />

RRP £14 EACH<br />

020 7274 6128<br />

tangleteezer.com<br />

Meet Mr Strong and Mr<br />

Amazing, great gifts for<br />

guys from MITCH.<br />

This Royal Dynasty deluxe<br />

gift set from ghd has both<br />

the rose gold platinum+<br />

and air hairdryer, and is its<br />

most luxurious set ever!<br />

RRP £298<br />

01924 423400<br />

ghdhair.com<br />

The Kérastase <strong>Christmas</strong> Coffrets feature three fullsized<br />

products to target specific hair types.<br />

RRP FROM £66<br />

0845 600 0122<br />

kerastase.co.uk<br />

RRP FROM £24<br />

0845 659 0011<br />

salon-success.co.uk<br />

To celebrate its<br />

25th anniversary,<br />

American Crew<br />

is inviting guys<br />

to Get the Look<br />

with its three duo<br />

gift sets.<br />

RRP £22 EACH<br />

020 7391 7440<br />

american<br />

crew.com<br />

Bring on the twinkle with JOICO Stars of JOI<br />

<strong>Christmas</strong> gift sets, in four brand varieties.<br />

Santa, can we have Defy Damage, please?<br />

RRP FROM £24.61<br />

0845 071 2326<br />

joicoeurope.com<br />

The System Repair Gift<br />

Set from System Professional<br />

is perfect for sprinkling<br />

some high gloss shine onto<br />

fragile hair.<br />

RRP £39.95<br />

020 3901 1163<br />

systemprofessional.com<br />

20<br />

CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong>


#CHedit<br />

There are four BC sets from<br />

Schwarzkopf Professional;<br />

each one contains a shampoo,<br />

conditioner and a treatment in a<br />

cosmetic bag.<br />

RRP £26.95<br />

0800 526741<br />

schwarzkopfpro.com<br />

Pop these pouches, stuffed with<br />

L’Oréal Professionnel Serie Expert<br />

mini goodies, onto your shelves!<br />

RRP £10<br />

0800 030 4034<br />

lorealprofessionnel.co.uk<br />

STOCK<br />

OPTIONS<br />

OUR PICK OF THE COOLEST CHRISTMAS<br />

GIFT SETS TO STACK ON SHELVES, AND<br />

STUFF IN SEASONAL STOCKINGS<br />

Join the book club with one of these<br />

sets from Paul Mitchell, and focus on the<br />

story of giving.<br />

RRP FROM £23<br />

0845 659 0011<br />

salon-success.co.uk<br />

One to watch...<br />

The thank goodness set from evo is<br />

all about hair, while highly gifted has<br />

some face products in there, too!<br />

RRP FROM £37<br />

0800 955 4285<br />

astonandfincher.co.uk<br />

Protect any colour clients with the Kerasilk<br />

Color <strong>Christmas</strong> bag from Goldwell.<br />

RRP £40<br />

0330 123 9530<br />

goldwell.co.uk<br />

LEAF SCISSORS<br />

GIVEN THE CURRENT climate crisis and catalogue<br />

of ecological disasters, we’re realising now more<br />

than ever that we all need to do our bit. While many<br />

hairdressing brands have chosen to go down a<br />

sustainable route, Leaf Scissors – the brainchild of<br />

hairdresser Stephen McManus – is giving back in a<br />

very tangible way.<br />

For every pair of the high-quality Japanese scissors<br />

sold, the company plants 10 trees in association with One<br />

Tree Planted, a non-profi t organisation on a mission of<br />

global reforestation.<br />

“I had wanted to create a tool for years but didn’t want<br />

to just do what everyone else was doing,” says Stephen.<br />

“I learned more about One Tree Planted and realised I<br />

could use this to really make a diff erence.”<br />

Since its inception Leaf Scissors has been taking its<br />

responsibilities seriously by helping off set carbon and<br />

reforest the earth. In fact, the past month alone has seen<br />

it plant nearly 500 trees! Leaf Scissors are designed ‘for<br />

hairdressers, by hairdressers’ and each order is<br />

presented in plastic-free packaging with an eco<br />

box made from a minimum of 90 per cent recycled<br />

material that is also fully recyclable.<br />

Retailing at £220, the Black Edition is designed to<br />

suit all hairdressers no matter their level of experience.<br />

Its ergonomic design makes the scissor feel like an<br />

extension of your hand and allows the user to explore<br />

their creativity with freedom and expression.<br />

Available in 5 inch, 5.5 inch and 6 inch models, they<br />

also can be bought in both left handed and right handed<br />

designs. “I created Leaf Scissors as I wanted a tool that<br />

was both stylish and sustainable,” says Stephen. “The<br />

brand is creative and has a sustainable impact. I’m so<br />

proud that we’re able to plant 10 trees every time somebody<br />

buys a pair.”<br />

PRICE £220<br />

07891 435088<br />

leafscissors.com<br />

CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong><br />

21


#CHedit<br />

Inside<br />

story<br />

EDWARD JAMES LONDON BALHAM<br />

Set in an old dairy, the latest outpost of Edward James London invites<br />

guests into a ‘stylish home’ concept. For founder Edward Shortall, that<br />

translates into texture, pattern, comfort and colour – stone, tree bark,<br />

marble, ceramic, metals and ikat prints offering bold colour and pattern.<br />

“Our goal with the materials we use is to be as natural, recycled and<br />

upcycled as possible – all timber is from sustainably sourced manufacturers<br />

and we don’t use plastics or toxic paints that contain volatile organic<br />

compounds,” explains Edward. So it makes sense that you’ll fi nd Aveda<br />

in the salon, too. His love of “mixing things up and having fun” is evident –<br />

kids are fascinated by the internal forest of tree trunks, and an enormous<br />

bunch of Edison bulbs look like a tangled knot of eccentric hair. Pooky<br />

supplied all the lampshades and you’ll spot Timothy Oulton light fi ttings,<br />

too. Lamps from Graham and Green and upcycled retail storage and some<br />

seating from Barker and Stonehouse round things off nicely.<br />

HOT BUYS<br />

TAKE A VOYAGE<br />

Does your reception<br />

area need a shake-up?<br />

Then this Discovery<br />

desk might just open<br />

up new possibilities –<br />

it’s modern, innovative,<br />

functional and offers<br />

plenty of space.<br />

£949 until 31 December<br />

(usually £1,189)<br />

07554 990965<br />

salonambience.com<br />

now open<br />

BOND SHOREDITCH<br />

A bespoke hair salon for women only, this<br />

Milk-designed London location was crafted<br />

with comfort in mind and uses vegan haircare.<br />

22<br />

CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong>


ALFAPARFMILANO.COM<br />

COMING SOON<br />

NEW SEMI DI LINO VOLUMIZING RANGE


EDDIE PARKER<br />

AGE: 20<br />

SALON: STUART HOLMES SALON<br />

WHY DID YOU WANT TO BECOME A HAIRDRESSER?<br />

When I was a child I would play with my<br />

sister’s dolls’ hair, then I began doing<br />

mannequin heads – I got through<br />

a lot of them! So, the passion to<br />

become a hairdresser has been there<br />

from a young age. But what really<br />

got me excited about the industry<br />

was when I got an apprenticeship at<br />

Stuart Holmes in Cheltenham. Once<br />

I began colouring, cutting and<br />

seeing colleagues entering<br />

competitions, shows and<br />

events, I really found<br />

a hunger, drive and<br />

passion to do more.<br />

WHAT HAVE YOU BEEN YOUR<br />

HIGHLIGHTS SO FAR?<br />

Being part of the L’Oréal<br />

Professionnel ID Artist<br />

programme; I’ve completed the<br />

first year. It’s been so amazing<br />

doing shows with Jason Hall,<br />

having a three-day workshop with<br />

Brooks & Brooks, being mentored<br />

in presentation skills by Simon Shaw<br />

and getting to go to Barcelona!<br />

Another highlight was winning<br />

the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Star<br />

Award <strong>2019</strong> for the Western<br />

Region. This was such a big<br />

moment for me.<br />

WHERE DO YOU SEE YOUR SELF IN 10 YEARS’ TIME?<br />

I don’t know, but I hope it’s doing creative<br />

and education work around colour. I still<br />

want to be inspired by the latest trends<br />

and continue to improve, making sure I’m<br />

keeping up-to-date with techniques.<br />

WHAT WOULD YOUR DREAM HAIRDRESSING GIG BE?<br />

To learn and work alongside leading<br />

colourists in the UK, absorbing as much<br />

information as possible. I’d also love to<br />

be creating my own collection of work,<br />

which would allow me to present on stage,<br />

educating and inspiring hairdressers.


MAKE IT A<br />

CRACKER<br />

THE FESTIVE SEASON IS ALSO A GIFT FOR SALONS. THE NHF/NBF SHARES<br />

TIPS ON HOW TO GIVE YOUR PROFITS A SERIOUS END-OF-YEAR BOOST<br />

HOW THE NHF/NBF<br />

CAN HELP YOU<br />

Not yet an NHF/NBF<br />

Member? For less than<br />

75p a day, benefits<br />

include:<br />

• Valuable discounts<br />

on industry-specific<br />

insurance<br />

BEFORE THE CHRISTMAS madness<br />

begins, make sure you have the whole<br />

team on board for what will undoubtedly<br />

be a manic few weeks. “Involve all of your<br />

employees in your <strong>Christmas</strong> preparations,”<br />

advises NHF/NBF chief executive Hilary<br />

Hall. “Organise a ‘<strong>Christmas</strong> brainstorming<br />

session’ to get as many ideas as possible.”<br />

IT’S A WRAP…<br />

Inspire your team to really push retail sales,<br />

says Hilary. “You could offer a prize for<br />

best <strong>Christmas</strong> sales. Staff recommending<br />

products they love to clients is effective as<br />

their enthusiasm is infectious.”<br />

MOTIVATE YOUR TEAM<br />

“<strong>Christmas</strong> can be a good time to judge<br />

annual schemes such as ‘employee of the<br />

year’ and present the winner with their<br />

prize,” says Hilary. Salon software can be<br />

used to provide objective measurements of<br />

employee performance, and the NHF/NBF<br />

has a number of trade members who supply<br />

specialist salon software to help you out.<br />

SHOW YOUR APPRECIATION<br />

“Your employees will be working really hard<br />

as <strong>Christmas</strong> approaches, so find different<br />

ways to show your appreciation,” says Hilary.<br />

See what works best for them – whether it’s<br />

discounts on retail products, extra time off,<br />

a staff day out or a special treat during the<br />

usually quieter January. If your staff feel<br />

valued they’ll be far more committed to the<br />

success of your <strong>Christmas</strong> plans.<br />

NOT JUST FOR CHRISTMAS…<br />

“Taking steps to motivate and incentivise<br />

your team is, of course, important for the<br />

success of your salon throughout the year,”<br />

says Hilary. Members can download an indepth<br />

guide to managing staff full of advice<br />

and insight: nhf.info/performance-guide<br />

• Free health & safety<br />

advice<br />

• Free 24/7 legal and<br />

commercial helplines<br />

• Membership helpline<br />

for everyday business<br />

advice<br />

• Free employment and<br />

chair renting contracts<br />

JOIN<br />

THE NHF/NBF<br />

BEFORE THE END<br />

OF DECEMBER <strong>2019</strong><br />

AND QUOTE CHD25 TO<br />

GET £25 OFF YOUR<br />

MEMBERSHIP FEE<br />

Make this a <strong>Christmas</strong> to remember with the NHF/NBF’s advice. Call 01234 831965 or visit nhf.info/join<br />

CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong><br />

25


THE BUSINESS EDIT<br />

CAROLYN<br />

ARONSON<br />

ITʼS A 10<br />

WHY DID YOU LAUNCH IT’S<br />

A 10?<br />

We started with just one<br />

bottle, and the concept was<br />

to create the product I always<br />

wished I’d had when I was a<br />

salon owner. I used to cherrypick<br />

products because I<br />

never found a range that had<br />

everything I needed when<br />

I was behind the chair. My<br />

mission was to create a line<br />

where every product was a<br />

10 that really gave instant,<br />

miracle results and were also<br />

multi-functional.<br />

TELL US MORE ABOUT THE<br />

RANGE’S HERO…<br />

The Miracle Leave-In product<br />

sells more than 13 million a<br />

year in the US. On the bottle,<br />

there are 10 simple bullet<br />

points about what it can be<br />

used for. Its purpose is to<br />

bring hair to an immensely<br />

healthy state so that no<br />

matter how you want to style<br />

it, it will behave in the way<br />

you want it to. It’s expanded<br />

into seven different variations<br />

and I build the collections<br />

around this original product.<br />

HOW ARE YOU SPREADING<br />

THE WORD?<br />

I really believe in sampling<br />

– I started off by going in to<br />

salons and giving them fullsized<br />

products! Once stylists<br />

started using it, it became<br />

almost a cult-like product<br />

as they started telling other<br />

hairdressers, who told their<br />

clients. We created a national<br />

holiday – 10 October, 10/10,<br />

Love Your Hair Day. Well, it’s<br />

now it’s International Love<br />

Your Hair Day!<br />

CAN REFRESHMENTS<br />

REFRESH YOUR<br />

BOTTOM LINE?<br />

NOTHING SETS OFF the salon experience<br />

quite like something delicious to sip or<br />

snack on while in the chair – especially at<br />

<strong>Christmas</strong> time. But can food and drink<br />

actually serve to grow your business further?<br />

It’s important to follow the appropriate<br />

regulations to ensure everything is hygienic<br />

and on the right side of the law. You don’t<br />

need a food handlers’ certificate to sell<br />

food, but the Food Safety Act 1990 outlines<br />

the standards required to serve food to the<br />

public, and you must ensure that everything<br />

is kept clean, stored correctly and staff follow<br />

instructions closely. And if you’re regularly<br />

serving alcohol, even if you’re not charging<br />

for it, then you’ll need both a personal and<br />

premises licence.<br />

When Gatsby & Miller in Amersham<br />

relaunched in January, it opened the<br />

in-salon Cafe 67. “Blending services and<br />

hospitality under one roof followed a<br />

requirement from our clients for good coffee<br />

and quality food,” explains owner John<br />

Roads. “We have created a premium service<br />

and social space that encourages clients to<br />

visit even between their appointments.”<br />

All clients are offered complimentary filter<br />

coffee, which they can upgrade to for an<br />

additional charge. As a licensed premises,<br />

the cafe also offers alcoholic drinks.<br />

Everything can be ordered from their chair<br />

and added onto their bill, helping to provide<br />

a seamless service. “We want to enhance<br />

a client’s visit and to be an enjoyable,<br />

accessible experience.”<br />

Q Hair & Beauty’s Kain Lawrence believes<br />

the key is to offer an easily achievable menu.<br />

At his salon, it comes pre-prepared and<br />

individually packaged. “This means we can<br />

offer drinks at an affordable price without<br />

worrying about wastage either.”<br />

It also serves drinks in its Courtyard<br />

Garden, and it’s had a positive impact on<br />

business. “The uptake has been hugely<br />

successful. The financial benefit is a double<br />

header; not only is there a profit margin<br />

in the alcohol we sell, but there is also<br />

then no absorbed costs in providing our<br />

complimentary refreshments menu.”<br />

Owner of RE:NU salon, Leigh-Anne Regan,<br />

has built a relationship with a local gin bar<br />

in order to promote both businesses. “We<br />

wanted to do a collaboration with interaction<br />

on social media from our clients and use<br />

drinks as a marketing tool,” she explains.<br />

“They have to post on their Stories to<br />

get a free drink and tag the bar, us and the<br />

location. When they’ve done this, then they<br />

get the drink free – clients love it.”<br />

“If you get it right and listen to what your<br />

clients want,” says John Roads, “offering<br />

food and drink can enhance their overall<br />

experience and they’ll reward you with<br />

continued loyalty.”<br />

MICHAEL VAN CLARKE<br />

MICHAEL VAN CLARKE<br />

The Marylebone Deli was created in our salon, where we<br />

run a seasonal menu available to clients and staff. There are<br />

specials made by head chef Luis each day, and we aim for the<br />

quality to be comparable with The Ivy. All catering costs are added<br />

to clients’ final salon bill and about 45 per cent of our visitors choose something from our<br />

catering options – this ranges from a single cappuccino to a full meal with champagne.<br />

Catering bills will vary from £4.50 to about £40, but the average spend is just under £10.<br />

Salons should ensure they’re able to develop their<br />

<strong>2019</strong><br />

offerings. There is no point in offering a service and<br />

then withdrawing it because it wasn’t well thought out.<br />

26<br />

CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong>


#BusinessEdit<br />

BUSINESS BUILDER<br />

ASK ME<br />

ANYTHING<br />

THERE ARE EXPERTS INSIDE<br />

EVERY BRANCH OF SALON<br />

SERVICES WITH KNOWLEDGE<br />

TO SHARE, SO JUST ASK!<br />

With Black Friday just weeks away and<br />

the festive season round the corner, it’s<br />

important you’re prepared for the spike in<br />

business. So make sure you’ve stocked up<br />

on all the essentials – from products (for<br />

both professional use and retailing) and<br />

electricals to gift cards and festive bundles.<br />

After all, the last thing you want to do is<br />

run out of stock during the busiest season!<br />

ON RIGHT NOW<br />

We understand how important it is for<br />

beauty professionals to stock up and save<br />

money ahead of the busy festive months.<br />

That’s why we’ve got loads of exciting<br />

deals in the pipeline this November and<br />

December. Be sure to keep an eye on our<br />

website, salon-services.com, so you don’t<br />

miss out!<br />

Help your clients<br />

get ready for party<br />

season with Training Solutions’<br />

Blow It In Style Essential Blow-drying Course<br />

(£85 exc. VAT). It’s ideal for creating voluminous<br />

and frizz-free hair styles for all social occasions.<br />

THE SERVICE STATION<br />

In association with<br />

Innovative launches, expert advice and business<br />

boosting ideas – drop in and feel the buzz!<br />

WELL-GROOMED<br />

BUYS FOR THE BOYS AT<br />

The new Wahl<br />

Stealth Beretto<br />

Clipper Kit (£109.99<br />

exc. VAT) is now<br />

available at Salon<br />

Services. Featuring<br />

a speed comb that’s<br />

great for creating<br />

flat tops, tapering<br />

and clipper-overcomb<br />

techniques,<br />

as well as a Durable<br />

Diamond Blade,<br />

this is a must-have!<br />

Joanne Etherson<br />

Marketing manager<br />

at Salon Services<br />

Q: How can I prepare<br />

for the festive rush?<br />

A: November and<br />

December are<br />

traditionally packed<br />

with parties as people<br />

get into the festive<br />

spirit. People want to<br />

look their best for these<br />

big occasions, a bonus<br />

for hair salons, which<br />

see a rise in bookings.<br />

To ensure you don’t get<br />

lost in the festive frenzy,<br />

be sure to plan these<br />

months to perfection<br />

well ahead of time. For<br />

instance, triple-check<br />

stock levels so you have<br />

everything you need,<br />

create your <strong>Christmas</strong><br />

beauty packages and<br />

don’t forget to decide<br />

on the layout of your<br />

retail area as this can<br />

save you a lot of stress.<br />

And when <strong>Christmas</strong><br />

business really ramps<br />

up, don’t forget that<br />

however important it is<br />

to keep your customers<br />

happy, you need to<br />

carve out a little special<br />

time for yourself as well.<br />

FOR ADVICE ON HOW TO BUILD YOUR BUSINESS, CALL 0330 1231907 OR VISIT SALON-SERVICES.COM<br />

CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong><br />

27


AND GET SWITCHED ON TO COLOUR WITH CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong> TV!<br />

ZOË IRWIN<br />

ROBERT EATON<br />

JORDANNA COBELLA<br />

JAYSON GRAY<br />

AKA KARBON KYD<br />

CLAYDE BAUMANN<br />

Watch <strong>Creative</strong> <strong>HEAD</strong> editor,<br />

Amanda Nottage, in conversation with<br />

a host of brilliant Wella colourists…<br />

only on <strong>Creative</strong> <strong>HEAD</strong> TV<br />

CREATIVE<strong>HEAD</strong>MAG.COM/TV


#BusinessEdit<br />

MISSION CONTROL<br />

PUTTING YOU IN THE DRIVING SEAT OF YOUR SALON<br />

in association with Phorest Salon Software and the <strong>Creative</strong> <strong>HEAD</strong> Reader Panel<br />

Reader Panel methodology: survey conducted in a poll of 50 salons employing four or more staff and spread geographically across the UK<br />

ONCE EACH ISSUE of <strong>Creative</strong><br />

<strong>HEAD</strong> lands with our subscribers,<br />

we speak to our Reader Panel to<br />

ask them how their business is<br />

going, in partnership with Phorest<br />

Salon Software. We combine the<br />

results from our Reader Panel with<br />

research compiled by Phorest Salon<br />

Software, using its client base of<br />

salons from across the UK, to gauge<br />

what’s going on in the industry<br />

and discuss how to solve common<br />

problems and issues. This month<br />

we’re talking about how to maximise<br />

the salon <strong>Christmas</strong> boost.<br />

PERCENTAGE OF TURNOVER<br />

ATTRIBUTED TO RETAIL SALES<br />

7.8%<br />

AVERAGE CLIENT SPEND IN<br />

SEPTEMBER (EXC. VAT)<br />

£54.59<br />

HOW DO YOU<br />

COMPARE?<br />

How was business in September<br />

compared with August?<br />

SAME<br />

20%<br />

DOWN<br />

40%<br />

UP<br />

40%<br />

How was business in September<br />

compared with September 2018?<br />

READER PANEL MISSION: MAKE CHRISTMAS COUNT<br />

90%<br />

of salons<br />

experience a<br />

<strong>Christmas</strong><br />

rush<br />

The average<br />

number of days<br />

salons close<br />

at <strong>Christmas</strong> is<br />

three days<br />

SAME<br />

40% UP<br />

50%<br />

DOWN<br />

10%<br />

60%<br />

of salons<br />

have a quieter<br />

January<br />

“We host two evening events called Advent Select. These evenings are for<br />

our clients who spend the most on retail, and are preview events for our<br />

<strong>Christmas</strong> gift sets. If a guest spends more than £100 they also receive a<br />

gift voucher for a free haircut in January”<br />

IAN HARROLD, ATTITUDE MEN’S HAIR<br />

DID YOU KNOW…<br />

UK SALONS SEE A 300 PER CENT UPTAKE IN<br />

APPOINTMENTS IN DECEMBER<br />

SO YOU KNEW the <strong>Christmas</strong> rush was big,<br />

but did you know how big? And do you know<br />

when that rush starts exactly? New research<br />

by Phorest Salon Software has identifi ed that<br />

it’s already started – on 17 October! The study<br />

also found December bookings in salons<br />

represent a whopping 300 per cent increase<br />

on the previous two months, meaning the<br />

chance to fi ll your books has never been better.<br />

By analysing booking data from more than<br />

6,500 salons, the Phorest fi gures show that<br />

towards the end of October, the spike is<br />

on a defi nite rise and the upward trajectory<br />

continues throughout the month of November,<br />

before reaching its peak on the busiest day of<br />

the year – the last Thursday before <strong>Christmas</strong>.<br />

By the fi rst week of November, salon<br />

appointment bookings have already almost<br />

doubled the average number of weekly<br />

bookings taken – jumping from 9.32 to<br />

17.3 appointments made for the <strong>Christmas</strong><br />

season. And once the end of November hits,<br />

that number has shot up again to 21.7.<br />

What can we take from this? Well, if you<br />

want to stay ahead of the curve and maximise<br />

on the rush, you need to have a marketing<br />

plan well in advance of the yuletide fun.<br />

Ideally, get promoting from the third week in<br />

October to make sure you’re reminding your<br />

clients to get booking and avoid having to<br />

disappoint those who call when your slots<br />

are already full. Try reaching out with clever<br />

email and SMS campaigns and fl agging your<br />

December availability on your social accounts<br />

and salon app sooner rather than later. If<br />

you’re a Phorest client, you can access<br />

suite of readymade email templates, SMS<br />

messages and your own branded app to get<br />

your slickest yet marketing plans underway.<br />

Find out more at phorest.com<br />

Shauna O’Halloran is content &<br />

marketing manager at Phorest<br />

Salon Software. Find out more<br />

at phorest.com and<br />

@phorestsalonsoftware<br />

CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong><br />

29


#BusinessEdit<br />

KEN’S CLINIC<br />

GOT A BUSINESS <strong>HEAD</strong>ACHE? LET KEN WEST, DIRECTOR OF BUSINESS<br />

EXPERTS 3•6•5, OFFER A PERSONAL PRESCRIPTION<br />

How do you<br />

successfully<br />

expand your<br />

brand to more<br />

than two salons<br />

without diluting<br />

your identity,<br />

ethos and beliefs?<br />

ADAM GORE, BARBEROLOGY<br />

KEN’S DIAGNOSIS<br />

I love this question Adam, as it takes me back to the<br />

time when I did exactly the same thing and went from<br />

two salons to three. What I discovered literally changed my<br />

life, as the challenges that I then faced led me to join 3•6•5,<br />

the wonderful organisation of which I am now a director.<br />

When I had two salons, which were fairly close together,<br />

I could ‘be there’. I split my time between the two and was<br />

one of the main income producers, and also problem solver/<br />

maintenance man/generally Mr Amazing. When I bought<br />

my third salon I soon realised that there was only so much<br />

that I could do and that what I needed were systems that<br />

made my salons work, whether I was<br />

there or not. It’s worth reading a book<br />

called The E Myth by Michael E. Gerber<br />

that explains the transition from skilled<br />

craftsman to businessman.<br />

To build and maintain a brand<br />

you need two key things. A true<br />

understanding of what your brand<br />

stands for and its values, and<br />

then systems to ensure that<br />

everything about your<br />

brand is replicated in<br />

all of your branches.<br />

This is exactly how a<br />

franchise works. You can<br />

go into any McDonald’s<br />

or Costa Coffee and you<br />

know what to expect. The<br />

product is the same and<br />

the service you receive<br />

should be the same. In other<br />

words, your client experience should be the same in each<br />

of your branches.<br />

Now I know that each of your stylists is different, but<br />

to become a brand with a strong identity there has to be<br />

a uniformity across your group. Pricing should be the<br />

same, promotions should be the same, branding and salon<br />

design should have a strong common theme. In your<br />

question you mentioned ‘identity, ethos and beliefs’. Your<br />

Instagram page says that you provide ‘a fresh look at men’s<br />

hairdressing’. If I were to ask every member of your team<br />

what this really means, would they all say the same thing?<br />

You are in the fastest growing and, I believe, one of the<br />

toughest sectors of our industry. Yet I also believe you are<br />

in a sector that offers amazing opportunities for the bold to<br />

rise above the masses. Your team culture is going to play a<br />

vital part in creating your brand and I hope your barbers are<br />

employed because otherwise controlling culture and creating<br />

a brand becomes virtually impossible. With self-employed<br />

barbers you are in fact a landlord with little or no control in<br />

the eyes of the HMRC over what happens in your salons.<br />

Systems also ensure that your business functions<br />

whether you are there or not. As you grow they ensure that<br />

each extra site operates exactly as you want it to. You need<br />

systems for attracting and ensuring the retention of clients,<br />

building a team and a culture to be proud of, educating<br />

and creating opportunities for your team, and building<br />

profitability and long-term security for you and your team.<br />

I learnt none of this when I trained as a hairdresser, which<br />

is why I joined 3•6•5 as a member nearly 30 years ago.<br />

I love the look of what you are doing Adam but trust me,<br />

to continue to grow a brand, most of us need some coaching<br />

to develop new skills. I wish you nothing but success.<br />

DO YOU HAVE A BUSINESS <strong>HEAD</strong>ACHE YOU’D LIKE KEN TO HELP WITH?<br />

Email him directly on KenW@365Hair.com or tweet us at @creativeheadmag<br />

30<br />

CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong>


SUCCESSFUL<br />

BUSINESS<br />

COACHING FOR<br />

SALONS<br />

Are you a<br />

Salon Owner?<br />

Do you want your salon to grow in<br />

this competitive economy?<br />

3·6·5 offer successful business coaching for salons<br />

providing you with powerful results-focused salon<br />

business education for your whole team. Meet likeminded<br />

people and discover the right tools to tackle<br />

key challenges in your business, steering you towards a<br />

stronger, more profitable future.<br />

Discover how<br />

we can help you…<br />

Call 0845 659 0015 or email hello@365hair.com<br />

www.365saloneducation.com • Find us: @365SalonEducation


#BusinessEdit<br />

ASSESSMENTS<br />

ARE ‘CONFUSING’<br />

THE NHF/NBF has reported confusion<br />

among employers about how end-point<br />

assessments work in hair and beauty.<br />

Director of quality & standards, Caroline<br />

Larissey, said: “We have been asked how<br />

many times an apprentice can take the<br />

end-point assessment, and who pays for<br />

repeat sittings. To clarify, there is no limit<br />

to the times an apprentice can sit the tests<br />

and if funding for the apprentice has run<br />

out, the employer must pay.”<br />

End-point assessments are the final<br />

part of the new Standards (Trailblazer)<br />

apprenticeship schemes in England only.<br />

“Employers must continue employing<br />

apprentices until they have successfully<br />

completed their apprenticeship, including<br />

the assessment. Employers can extend the<br />

apprenticeship if necessary,” she added.<br />

Find out more at nhf.info/apprentices<br />

DEALING WITH NO-SHOWS<br />

AND LATE CANCELLATIONS<br />

IF YOU GET ONE no-show a day for<br />

appointments worth £50, you’ll be losing<br />

£14,400 a year, says NHF/NBF director of<br />

finance Kishon Mather. He explained: “That’s<br />

why no-shows and late cancellations can cause<br />

serious damage to a salon’s profits.<br />

“You must create a no-show and late<br />

cancellation policy. You’ll need to be clear about<br />

how far in advance clients need to cancel and<br />

any financial penalties you may charge. But be<br />

careful – although you are entitled to cover your<br />

financial losses, the law says you cannot impose<br />

fees that are unfair to your clients.”<br />

NHF/NBF members can download a new<br />

in-depth guide to dealing with no-shows and late<br />

cancellations at nhf.info/no-show-guide<br />

HIGH STREET HOPE<br />

FOR THE HAIR AND<br />

BEAUTY SECTOR<br />

BEAUTY SALONS, combined hair and beauty salons and barber shops<br />

continue to show healthy high street growth against a backdrop of rising<br />

shop closures, according to a recent report from the Local Data Company.<br />

Although the high street shop vacancy rate is now at its highest level since<br />

2014, figures for the first half of <strong>2019</strong> show that barber shops saw overall<br />

growth of 352, beauty salons by 179, nail salons by 109 and hair and beauty<br />

salons by 56.<br />

NHF/NBF chief executive, Hilary Hall, said: “It’s great that hair and<br />

beauty is one of the few retail sectors showing growth and we’ve seen a big<br />

rise in the number of NHF/NBF members offering both. Express treatments<br />

or services, male grooming, longer opening hours and online bookings or<br />

focusing on wellbeing are all examples of how salons can make the most of<br />

consumers’ willingness to spend money on looking and feeling good.<br />

“Getting and keeping clients is harder than ever – but crucial if salons are<br />

to make a profit against a backdrop of rising wages, higher rents and rates.”<br />

Find out more at nhf.info/high-street<br />

More increases to come<br />

for National Living Wage?<br />

BOTH MAIN POLITICAL parties have proposed increases to the National Living Wage<br />

(NLW). The Conservative Party says it will raise the NLW to £10.50 an hour within five<br />

years and lower the qualifying age from 25 to 21.<br />

The Labour Party has pledged to raise the NLW to £10 an hour in 2020 and to lower<br />

the qualifying age to 16. Sixteen-year-olds are currently entitled to £4.35 an hour.<br />

Hilary Hall, chief executive of the NHF/NBF, said: “Of course employers want to<br />

pay their talented stylists, barbers and therapists of all ages a decent wage. But there<br />

comes a point when ever-increasing wages become unaffordable for small businesses,<br />

especially service industries where wages and pensions are such a high proportion of<br />

overall costs.”<br />

Find out more at nhf.info/NMW-proposals<br />

32 CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong>


FIND<br />

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FULL OF<br />

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be. The new Royal Dynasty collection from ghd is a celebration of all things beautiful, with<br />

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ELIGHTS<br />

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upgrade with a chic rose gold sheen and a luxury<br />

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GIFTING<br />

These luxury gift sets offer great value –<br />

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BOSSING IT<br />

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These perfectly packaged gift sets are the ideal gift this <strong>Christmas</strong> – whether a present for family,<br />

friends, or yourself. No matter their hair type or length, every client deserves the royal treatment.<br />

BY ROYAL APPOINTMENT ONLY. DISCOVER MORE ABOUT THE ROYAL DYNASTY CHRISTMAS COLLECTION FROM GHD.<br />

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THE BOLD<br />

To celebrate the talent across the Aveda Salon Network,<br />

the brand runs the #AvedaArtist competition, where stylists<br />

up and down the UK submit creative images on social media<br />

for the chance to win a shoot mentored by members of the<br />

Aveda Artistic Team. Winners Domenico Sansone from Gina<br />

Conway Salons and Spas, and Maren Moholt from Wonderlab,<br />

joined Aveda’s Jo McKay and Bruno Elorrioroz to get bright<br />

and bold with neon using new Aveda Full Spectrum Vibrants,<br />

under the direction of Bea Carmichael and Luke Castillo. The<br />

future’s so bright, you gotta wear shades...<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOANA GAUER<br />

38<br />

CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong>


CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong> ADVERTORIAL<br />

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39


“The looks show how<br />

at Aveda salons we<br />

love healthy, shinylooking<br />

hair. We are<br />

able to create vibrant<br />

colours by remaining<br />

true to Aveda’s brand<br />

values, and the Aveda<br />

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shades are 95 per cent<br />

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DOMENICO SANSONE,<br />

GINA CONWAY SALONS AND SPAS<br />

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“This competition is a great<br />

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push ourselves and engage<br />

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by like-minded<br />

creative people.<br />

And, of course, the<br />

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DOMENICO SANSONE,<br />

GINA CONWAY<br />

SALONS AND SPAS<br />

@HERE.IS.DOM<br />

40 CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong>


HAIR Bruno Elorrioroz (@brunoelorrioroz), Maren Moholt (@hairbymarenm), Jo McKay (@joelouisemckay), Domenico<br />

Sansone (@here.is.dom). CREATIVE DIRECTION Bea Carmichael (@beacarmichael13) and Luke Castillo (@lukeccastillo).<br />

MAKE-UP Lucy Broggio (@lucy.broggio_mua). PHOTOGRAPHY Joana Gauer (@jogauer)<br />

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“I entered the<br />

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salon, and the experience of doing<br />

photoshoots and editorial work! With<br />

amazing help from Bea and Luke, the<br />

time on set was amazing and I learnt<br />

so much about the process”<br />

MAREN MOHOLT, WONDERLAB<br />

@HAIRBYMARENM<br />

41


It’s our little<br />

secret<br />

You can’t beat the ease of tape extensions, but they never look as good<br />

as individual bonds… do they? New SECRETS extensions from<br />

Hairdreams are here to change your expectations<br />

42


TAPES HAVE BEEN the biggest game changer in<br />

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The newest product from Hairdreams is here to<br />

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tape extensions. SECRETS tapes allow stylists<br />

to create volume that’s more imperceptible than<br />

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construction of the new tapes makes it appear as if<br />

the hair has grown directly from the scalp, creating<br />

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To make these incredible new tapes, Hairdreams<br />

has created an innovative injection procedure to<br />

integrate additional hair into the tapes, rather than<br />

knotting or pressing them flat in the usual way. This<br />

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giving unmistakeable volume that appears to grow<br />

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SECRETS, like all Hairdreams extensions, use only<br />

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Worried you’ll have to learn<br />

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43


stronger<br />

44 CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong>


together<br />

It’s Astonishing to think<br />

that Unite – the hair brand<br />

founded by ex-Sassoon<br />

educator and now California<br />

resident Andrew Dale – is<br />

16 years old. But what<br />

a fabulous excuse for a<br />

celebration (not that another<br />

one was needed) for the more<br />

than 1,000 hairdressers<br />

(aka the Unite Family) who<br />

attended Global Session VI,<br />

a weekend of inspiration and<br />

education delivered by Unite’s<br />

global troupe of artistic<br />

directors, editorial stylists<br />

and tastemakers<br />

– @unite_hair #unitefamily<br />

CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong><br />

45


The performances at San Diego’s historic Balboa Theatre were fast-paced and varied, with<br />

45-minute sections each featuring three artists and focusing on either Editorial Styling,<br />

Cutting or Barbering. Highlights included Brendan O’Sullivan’s high-varnish modern<br />

take on a ’40s victory roll straight out of NYFW; Unite educator Arianna Marino’s<br />

exquisitely cut and tasteful work on a duo of Goth-rock models; an intelligent and<br />

articulate barbering showcase that highlighted the depth and breadth of men’s looks right<br />

now; and a finale of avant-garde looks that not only defied imagination but gravity, too –<br />

Australia’s Shaun McGrath had to climb up a stepladder to put the finishing touches to his<br />

incredible resin creations. Along with a quartet of ‘hot’ LA stylists discussing the pros and<br />

cons of fame forged on Instagram, it was 48 hours of thought-provoking, crowd-pleasing<br />

and above all good-natured fun.<br />

Todd da Silva, US<br />

Paul Stafford, UK<br />

46 CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong>


Diego Miranda, Spain<br />

Gary Baker, UK<br />

Melissa Timperley, UK<br />

Jesse Gaines, US<br />

To see<br />

these looks<br />

come alive, visit<br />

creativeheadmag.com<br />

– @unite_hair #unitefamily<br />

CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong><br />

47


HAIR BY BRENDAN<br />

Brendan O’Sullivan – for decades the creative director at Regis and now an<br />

international session stylist in his own right – is a key member of the Unite Family.<br />

He worked with more than 60 designers this season across both NYFW and LFW,<br />

and all were amazing! Here he tells <strong>Creative</strong> <strong>HEAD</strong> about his experiences…<br />

48 CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong>


How do Unite products deliver for you backstage at<br />

the shows?<br />

When you’re working in the fast-paced backstage<br />

environment, you need products that can help you create<br />

a range of looks. Briefs can change at the last minute<br />

and it’s great to have products that can multi-task and be<br />

layered… the Unite range is perfect for this! Its products<br />

deliver everything I need, from the mirror shine on the<br />

sleek ponytails at the Global Fashion Collective NYFW<br />

show, to the beachy, soft matt waves at Jean Gritsfeldt at<br />

NAMESldn over LFW. We can’t wait to work with the Unite<br />

products and team again next season!<br />

What is it about session work that excites you?<br />

I love playing with textures, styles and techniques. Some<br />

are inspired by the past but given a modern twist, such as<br />

at the EDGII NYFW show, where we did a new take on the<br />

classic ’40s victory roll. I also enjoy creating more extreme<br />

looks such as the super-wet, high shine styles, which<br />

will help shape the next hair trends on the high street.<br />

It’s wonderful to see a take on a style you’ve created<br />

backstage descend into the mainstream.<br />

In general, I truly enjoy the whole collaborative<br />

experience – from liaising with the designer to find the<br />

perfect hair design that will help convey the message<br />

behind their collection, to working with my amazing team<br />

who all pull together to help deliver the look. Then, of<br />

course, working with the fabulous models, production and<br />

make-up teams. It really takes an army of people to bring<br />

the show together – and I love every part of it.<br />

In which ways does your session work enhance your<br />

Amersham salon business?<br />

Our clients love that the fact that two of our senior stylists<br />

and I do session work. They love that we are backstage<br />

creating new hair trends all over the world and not just<br />

following the trends. Where possible, we offer our insalon<br />

team the opportunity to assist, with some travelling<br />

around the world to work at fashion weeks and on<br />

editorials in London, Milan, Paris and New York.<br />

As a result, we are now known in our town as ‘the<br />

salon to go to’ and this is reflected in our pricing – our<br />

clients are prepared to pay premium rates for the comfort<br />

of being treated by our top stylists, who have gained<br />

knowledge and expertise from all over the world. This<br />

has led to even more VIP and celebrity bookings, enticing<br />

clients who would usually travel to London to have their<br />

hair done.<br />

As a business we really utilise the content gathered<br />

from our various shows and editorials to showcase our<br />

work in the salon window, across our social channels and<br />

website. Allowing our client base to follow our adventures<br />

via our Instagram, updating our stylist bios on our website<br />

and placing videos of the looks we’ve created backstage<br />

on our social networks is great for the bottom line, helping<br />

with bookings and product sales. It’s also good for teambuilding<br />

and morale, helping us to attract great staff who<br />

know we support them both in and out of the salon. It’s of<br />

great benefit to all areas of our business.<br />

CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong><br />

NEW YORK<br />

GLOBAL FASHION<br />

COLLECTIVE AC HOUSE<br />

A high ponytail with a Chinese<br />

staircase braid<br />

LONDON<br />

SYZYGY<br />

Ponytail with<br />

extension<br />

and ring<br />

Unite<br />

products<br />

are available<br />

exclusively in the UK<br />

from Salon Success<br />

NAMESLDN<br />

JEAN GRITSFELDT<br />

Rock chic beach vibe<br />

LEAF XIA<br />

EDGII POWER VIBE<br />

A modern take on a ’40s<br />

victory roll<br />

Looks were based on<br />

old Chinese drawings<br />

Leaf XIA photography by Leandro. EDGII Power Vibe photography by Mike Coppola. AC House images courtesy of Global Fashion Collective. Jean Gritsfeldt and Syzygy photography by Jen Baker.<br />

– @unite_hair #unitefamily<br />

49


Two things you<br />

should know<br />

about the new<br />

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CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong> ADVERTORIAL<br />

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#greathairanywhere


CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong> ADVERTORIAL<br />

• Powered by<br />

lithium-ion for<br />

sustained power<br />

performance<br />

• Micro Heating<br />

Matrix gives<br />

consistent styling<br />

on every section<br />

• Three<br />

temperature<br />

settings: 160˚C,<br />

180˚C, 200˚C<br />

• Three-hour<br />

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• Travel storage<br />

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Cordless?<br />

This is different.<br />

Yes, we know. Cordless isn’t new. But the BaByliss 9000 Cordless<br />

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#greathairanywhere


“The look at Matty Bovan S/S20 was<br />

all about the perfectly straight, long,<br />

silky ponytail – every woman’s dream.<br />

That’s why we used the BaByliss 9000<br />

Cordless Straightener with gel to create<br />

the perfect pony. You won’t get it any<br />

cleaner or shinier – and because it’s<br />

cordless, you can keep perfecting it right<br />

until the minute the model goes out onto<br />

the catwalk or in front of the camera”<br />

Syd Hayes,<br />

international session stylist<br />

#greathairanywhere


A new era in<br />

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RRP £250. Available at babyliss.co.uk and selected salons.<br />

For more information contact info@babylisspro.co.uk<br />

#greathairanywhere


event<br />

WRONG TIME<br />

WRONG PLACE<br />

WRONG EVERYTHING<br />

<strong>Creative</strong> <strong>HEAD</strong> presents<br />

Something sub-standard, hosted by Ky Wilson<br />

Monday 18 November, London SE1<br />

From 7pm until 10pm (ish)<br />

BOTHERED?<br />

Tickets £30 or two for £50<br />

Club member tickets only £20 each<br />

Includes food, drink and ‘entertainment’<br />

Buy online at creativeheadmag.com/store or call 01434 610416<br />

creativeheadmag.com @creativeheadmag #badsalon


CREATE <strong>HEAD</strong>-TURNING<br />

PARTY LOOKS WITH<br />

TANGLE TEEZER’S<br />

HAIRBRUSHES AND<br />

ADD SOME CHRISTMAS<br />

PIZZAZZ WITH THE<br />

NEW SILVER SPARKLE<br />

COLLECTION<br />

Party<br />

people<br />

THE TANGLE TEEZER hairbrush<br />

range will help you give clients<br />

incredible party looks for a big night<br />

out this festive season. This textured<br />

half-up, half-down style is the<br />

perfect way to glam up those who<br />

want height and volume with a<br />

bit of an edge. The height can<br />

be adjusted to suit your client,<br />

allowing them to wear the<br />

look with confidence.<br />

Add a sprinkle of glitter and<br />

daily dazzle with the new<br />

Silver Sparkle Collection. The<br />

Original detangling hairbrush<br />

and The Wet Detangler<br />

are here to add a touch of<br />

glamour to your routine with<br />

their glittering finishes.<br />

52<br />

CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong>


CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong> ADVERTORIAL<br />

STEP ONE<br />

First, detangle wet hair with The Wet Detangler detangling<br />

hairbrush. The unique, two-tiered teeth effortlessly glide<br />

through the hair, removing knots and tangles without pulling<br />

or tugging.<br />

STEP TWO<br />

Blow-dry the hair in sections using the Blow-Styling Round<br />

Tool. Rotate the hairbrush in a curling motion, allowing the<br />

hair to bevel around the barrel. Wrap and pin each section to<br />

set the curl and leave to cool.<br />

STEP THREE<br />

Release the curls and gently brush through with The Ultimate<br />

finishing hairbrush to define movement, add shine and style<br />

the hair.<br />

STEP FOUR<br />

Take a triangular section at the top of the head, then create a<br />

small rectangular section underneath and place a hidden braid.<br />

This will form a base to pin the side and top sections into.<br />

STEP FIVE<br />

Using the Back-Combing hairbrush, back-comb the side<br />

panels and pin into the braid to secure. Then back-comb the<br />

top section of the hair to create volume.<br />

STEP SIX<br />

Once you’ve achieved the desired volume, pin the hair in<br />

place to secure the shape. Detail the look to personalise, and<br />

add an accessory at the back to finish.<br />

Shine on with the new Silver Sparkle collection.<br />

Contact sales@tangleteezer.com or call 020 7738 4458 to find your nearest distributor<br />

CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong><br />

53


ALL part OF<br />

With a returning client ratio of about 95 per cent and an average salon bill of £135,<br />

Michael Van Clarke knows a little something about building a business that delights.<br />

The <strong>2019</strong> Most Wanted Best Salon Experience winner takes us on a journey…<br />

THIS ISN’T MICHAEL VAN CLARKE’S first Most Wanted rodeo. With<br />

awards for Best Salon Experience, Best Salon Team and Business Thinker,<br />

he’s a veteran at getting the best out of his staff and delivering a fivestar<br />

service for his discerning clientele in London’s Marylebone. But<br />

perhaps it’s the fact that he’s won Best Salon Experience again, nine<br />

years after the last, that is most impressive – because it illustrates a<br />

consistency of luxury service that is incredibly tough to keep up.<br />

“Maintaining and improving service standards over time takes<br />

immense effort and oversight from the whole team,” Michael admits.<br />

“The recognition of an award like this is a great boost and helps the team<br />

keep focused on that continuing journey.”<br />

That journey – knowing its key touchpoints and ensuring<br />

the whole team knows what is expected at all times – is<br />

paramount, and it starts from<br />

the booking. More than 65 per<br />

<strong>2019</strong><br />

cent of clients book their next<br />

54<br />

CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong>


appointment before they leave, either at the front<br />

desk or via the in-salon iPad. On the telephone, staff<br />

know their scripts and always ensure clients can hear<br />

a smile in their voice.<br />

There’s a three-second rule from when the client<br />

walks in to being greeted by a staff member, and<br />

everyone is shown the chef’s menu for the in-house<br />

deli, launched in 2015. Best practice is mapped out for<br />

staff down to individual greetings, gowning, seating<br />

clients, consultations, the backwash trip, returning<br />

to their seat and the handover back to the stylist.<br />

Nothing is left to chance.<br />

The same can be said when leaving the salon – it<br />

is always assumed that the client will book their<br />

that’s one of the reasons why the average bill is £135 inclusive of<br />

VAT and client retention runs between 92 and 95 per cent.<br />

Each team member has a success notebook that allows them<br />

to record daily, weekly, monthly and quarterly performance,<br />

making notes in real time that can be transferred onto a client’s<br />

history and referred back to. The booklet is also used during staff<br />

appraisals, during which personalised targets and performance<br />

are assessed and evaluated. Every operator is encouraged to take<br />

control of their productivity and manage their business… while<br />

having the full support of the salon.<br />

THE service<br />

next appointment, and they’ll want to leave with the<br />

products used during their service. Every client must<br />

leave on a high…<br />

Having spent 10 years at John Frieda before<br />

launching his own salon 30 years ago, Michael today<br />

still has more than 100 clients that he started to look<br />

after when he was a junior, and more than 1,000<br />

clients who have stayed loyal for 10 years or more. The<br />

essence of great service is that he and the team like<br />

to say ‘yes’, whatever the request – it’s that attitude<br />

HOW TO DELIGHT like MVC<br />

• A salon host takes new clients on a tour of the 3,000sq ft salon<br />

• An in-house deli opens from 7.30am<br />

• Complimentary naturally-flavoured water and chocolates<br />

• Seasonal fresh flower displays<br />

• Book back blow-drys, where clients can book in one week<br />

after their first cut for any necessary tweaks<br />

• Calls to new clients for honest feedback<br />

CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong><br />

55


Northern Hair Loss Clinic<br />

HAIR LOSS<br />

Take Back<br />

Control<br />

FOR CLIENTS SUFFERING WITH THINNING HAIR AND HAIR LOSS, THE EFFECT ON SELF-CONFIDENCE CAN BE HUGE.<br />

STYLISTS ARE IN AN INCREDIBLE POSITION TO GIVE CLIENTS BACK THEIR SMILE…<br />

MORE THAN EVER we are aware of the impact of image on mental<br />

health and wellbeing, and for clients suffering with thinning hair<br />

and hair loss, the effect on their confidence can be sizeable. A stylist<br />

can be someone who is understanding and sympathetic, and the<br />

expert who can offer REAL solutions.<br />

The two main causes of hair loss and thinning are the natural<br />

ageing process, and damage linked to external environmental<br />

factors such as pollution, dyeing hair and using the wrong products.<br />

So how do you broach the subject? “I would never bring up a<br />

client’s hair loss first,” says Ruffians’ creative director, Denis<br />

Robinson. “I want them to feel relaxed enough to discuss such a<br />

sensitive topic.”<br />

However, when that conversation does inevitably rear its head,<br />

hairdressers need to be comfortable speaking honestly. Hayley<br />

Jennings and Jessica Patrick, co-directors of the Northern Hair<br />

Loss Clinic, say: “Whatever the cause, it’s an important subject that<br />

shouldn’t be ignored. It’s a good idea to let the client take the lead.”<br />

WILL WILLIAMS, WILLIAMS & RICE, LONDON<br />

“We use a treatment called fractional mesotherapy, which<br />

creates hair growth by pushing vitamins and minerals<br />

under the scalp. We check the client’s head for live follicles<br />

using a microscopic camera. If suitable, we use a pen that<br />

has nine micro-fine needles rotating at 9,000 rpm to make<br />

puncture marks in the skin. We then syringe the topical<br />

product on to the skin and massage it in. Many clients see<br />

new hair after two treatments but should have at least five.”<br />

56<br />

CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong>


The<br />

MANTA<br />

CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong> ADVERTORIAL<br />

THE MANTA IS the award-winning creation of hairdresser<br />

Tim Binnington, who used his 25 years of hands-on<br />

experience with the latest materials and technology to<br />

develop a brush that would reinvent the way hair is treated.<br />

Perfect for the backwash thanks to its non-slip grip, it can<br />

be used on wet and dry hair and is suitable for everyone,<br />

including all types of hair extensions and wigs.<br />

Made from soft-touch silicone it features pioneering,<br />

patented FLEXGUARD technology on the base, enabling<br />

each bristle to have a full range of motion to gently free knots<br />

and minimise breakage. Its ergonomic design means it fi ts<br />

comfortably in the hand and the more the user bends and<br />

fl exes it, the more fl exible it becomes. With no rough edges<br />

to catch or tear the hair shaft, The MANTA glides responsively<br />

through hair for minimum breakage and maximum shine.<br />

It’s the fi rst brush to mould to the shape of your hand,<br />

creating less tension on each strand while massaging the<br />

scalp to promote healthy hair growth.<br />

In just one year it has scooped eight awards, including<br />

prizes from Woman and Home magazine and BBC1’s The<br />

Customer is Always Right. This is a tool that’s essential<br />

for anyone who wants healthy and shiny hair, who wears<br />

extensions or is struggling with hair loss, breakage, thinning<br />

or fi ne hair. It’s time to make The MANTA your mantra…<br />

“My MANTA<br />

is an essential<br />

part of my<br />

kit and I use<br />

it on every<br />

client I see,<br />

so I jumped at<br />

the chance to<br />

create my own<br />

limited edition<br />

colour – deep<br />

plum and rose<br />

gold – a perfect<br />

stocking fi ller”<br />

Zoë Irwin, The MANTA<br />

brand ambassador<br />

Want to add this TLC tool to your kit and your retail shelves? Contact The MANTA on ds@mantahair.com or visit mantahair.com<br />

CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong> 57


#HairLoss<br />

BEFORE<br />

AFTER<br />

Back to Basics<br />

While some may want to immediately turn to products and<br />

treatments to help tackle hair loss and thinning, it’s important<br />

to also offer options that can be provided in the salon chair.<br />

“Don’t be afraid to talk about colour,” says Francesco Group<br />

creative director, Heather Shaw. “Clients suffering with hair<br />

thinning may feel reluctant but clever placement will give<br />

the illusion of thicker-looking hair. A deeper toner on the<br />

perimeter of the hair will act as padding, making it look fuller.<br />

Even layering different tones within the hair will give a multidimensional<br />

look.”<br />

And while trimming hair might sound scary to your client<br />

if they’re desperately trying to keep hold of what is left, any<br />

stylist knows that the right cut can help the client make the<br />

most of their locks. “It’s amazing what can be achieved with<br />

some clever cutting,” says Denis.<br />

If you have clients experiencing reduced hair thickness<br />

and quality, recommending a tailored regime – and one that<br />

includes in-salon treatments at the backwash – can really help.<br />

Nioxin in particular has customised its products to tackle hair<br />

thinning from many different angles. Sophie Ruggiero, Wella<br />

Professionals education manager, says: “Nioxin is skincare for<br />

your scalp, which essentially is an extension of the skin on your<br />

face. To ensure you have the best environment for hair to grow,<br />

Nioxin works on the three Ds: derma, density and diameter.”<br />

Of course, for some clients, using a supplement and specific<br />

product routine may not be enough, which is where stylists<br />

should consider advising their customers to try extensions or<br />

a hair piece. Remi Cachet has The Master Parting, which is<br />

specifically designed for hair loss replacement. The bespoke<br />

design was created by Victoria Lynch, managing director<br />

of Remi Cachet, for her clients suffering with hair loss.<br />

Handmade using Russian and Mongolian hair, there are<br />

different application methods including a monofilament top<br />

with clips, a lace system or micro rings. “Many of my clients are<br />

referrals who have already been identified as having an issue,”<br />

says Victoria, who’s also a qualified hair replacement specialist.<br />

“Many clients I see actually have thinning hair, and not a hair<br />

loss issue, which is a common mistake by stylists. Being patient<br />

and sensitive are the two main skills you need as they are very<br />

vulnerable and scared.<br />

“Training on products, correct placement and application to<br />

avoid further damage are so crucial for the client’s wellbeing –<br />

and that will allow their confidence to grow.”<br />

Remi Cachet Master Parting<br />

Home comforts<br />

Even the most diligent of clients who invest a lot of time and<br />

money on their hair in the salon, can fall down when it comes<br />

to maintaining that level at home.<br />

New generation brushes from Tangle Teezer, The Knot Dr.<br />

and The MANTA put that client and their hair needs front<br />

and centre when it comes to innovation, creating tools that<br />

are perfectly designed to gently work through locks without<br />

pulling or snapping strands. Rebecca Morgan, owner of<br />

Morgan’s Hair, Beauty and Wigs, uses The Knot Dr. in her<br />

salons, says: “It’s perfect for detangling hair gently without<br />

pulling out lots of strands. What’s really great about it is that<br />

it’s perfect for wigs and extensions. It doesn’t cause static in<br />

human hair or synthetic pieces so keeps it manageable.”<br />

Likewise with The MANTA brush, the product has been<br />

specifically designed to limit damage to the hair. Zoë Irwin,<br />

ambassador for the brand, says: “The MANTA is the first brush<br />

to mould to the shape of your hand and scalp, creating less<br />

tension on each strand while stimulating the scalp to promote<br />

healthy growth. Being extra careful and gentle while washing<br />

makes a huge difference to the thickness of hair. Creating less<br />

tangles as you cleanse means maintaining hair fullness.”<br />

“It’s important to educate people on how to look after their<br />

hair to help fight thinning and loss,” suggests Paul Phillips,<br />

owner of Chopp Hair. “There’s the surface level: protecting<br />

against the elements, not brushing too harshly, but it goes<br />

deeper than that. I believe stress plays the biggest part so I<br />

think it’s key to encourage a more holistic approach.”<br />

REBECCA MORGAN, MORGAN’S HAIR, BEAUTY<br />

AND WIGS, NORTH WALES<br />

“I began working with wigs when a close friend came to<br />

me to ask for advice after being diagnosed with cancer.<br />

Since then I’ve learnt so much about the subject but<br />

there’s always something new that surprises me. It’s<br />

important for the client to see a trichologist to check their<br />

scalp and perform tests to find out the exact cause. Of<br />

course, there’s often a huge waiting list to see a specialist<br />

and for many people the trauma of being without hair<br />

means they can’t wait. Sometimes when people come in<br />

who are experiencing hair loss or hair thinning I try to give<br />

them practical tips such as not washing their hair every<br />

day. This in itself can be a game changer. It puts so much<br />

pressure on the hair and scalp and not using the right<br />

products makes it worse. I also always recommend quality<br />

treatments and a Knot Dr. brush to help limit hair trauma.”<br />

58<br />

CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong>


THICKER, FULLER HAIR<br />

*<br />

IN<br />

30<br />

D<br />

DA<br />

AY<br />

AYS<br />

1Globally selling. 2 Value data Kline & Company<br />

*Guarantee redeemable and full terms and<br />

conditions available at www.nioxin.co.uk<br />

THE NO.1 1 SALON BRAND<br />

FOR THICKER, FULLER HAIR 2<br />

INSPIRED BY PREMIUM SKIN CARE, THE NIOXIN RANGE IS<br />

DESIGNED TO STRENGTHEN, NOURISH AND REPAIR YOUR HAIR<br />

FROM THE INSIDE OUT.<br />

WWW.NIOXIN.COM<br />

SUPPORTED BY<br />

NIOXIN Healthy Child - Coty UK Limited1.indd 1 19/07/<strong>2019</strong> 15:10


#HairLoss<br />

LOSS LEADERS<br />

STANDOUT SOLUTIONS FROM THE SALON FOR CLIENTS SUFFERING WITH HAIR LOSS AND THINNING<br />

Specifically designed for hair loss<br />

and hair replacement, the Master<br />

Parting from Remi Cachet<br />

Elegance range is made<br />

from 100 per cent human<br />

hair. The hairpiece is<br />

handmade and can<br />

last up to 12 months if<br />

looked after properly.<br />

IN-SALON SERVICE<br />

remicachet.com<br />

The first hairpiece from Great<br />

Lengths, GL Volume has been<br />

made specifically for women with<br />

thin hair or sparse spots around<br />

the crown. Fully blendable, it<br />

remains invisible and it means it<br />

stays convincing whatever your<br />

client gets up to.<br />

IN-SALON SERVICE<br />

greatlengths.co.uk<br />

Enhance hair health and<br />

volume with extracts of soja<br />

germ extract, fava bean<br />

extract, pea extract and<br />

kidney bean extract with<br />

the Rescue My. Hair Volume<br />

Shampoo Bar.<br />

RRP £13.95<br />

my-haircare.com<br />

Aveda Invati’s advanced threestep<br />

set starts with an exfoliating<br />

shampoo to remove build-up,<br />

before thickening conditioner<br />

delivers instant fullness to hair.<br />

Finish with 16 spritzes of the<br />

scalp tonic all over the head.<br />

RRP £99<br />

aveda.co.uk<br />

Nioxin’s 3D Intensive Care<br />

six-piece range targets the 3Ds<br />

of derma, density and diameter<br />

to improve the health of the<br />

scalp, increase the thickness<br />

of individual strands and boost<br />

overall condition.<br />

RRP FROM £22.90<br />

nioxin.com<br />

Tangle Teezer’s Fine and Fragile<br />

Detangling Hair Brush<br />

is perfect for those<br />

with colour-treated,<br />

fine or fragile hair, as<br />

it’s gentle on the scalp<br />

and detangles<br />

without pulling.<br />

RRP £12<br />

tangleteezer.com<br />

The Knot Dr.<br />

uses unique<br />

technology<br />

to flex through<br />

tresses, while it’s<br />

oversized bristle<br />

ball tips are perfect<br />

to gently stimulate<br />

the scalp.<br />

RRP FROM £9.99<br />

theknotdr.com<br />

The MANTA is the first brush to<br />

mould to the shape of your<br />

hand, thus creating less<br />

tension on each strand<br />

while also massaging<br />

the scalp to promote<br />

healthy hair growth.<br />

RRP £25<br />

mantahair.com<br />

60<br />

CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong>


62<br />

CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong>


On<br />

balance<br />

A HAIRCUT IS ABOUT BALANCE, CRAFTSMANSHIP AND FASHION, AS<br />

JOE MILLS AND JODY TAYLOR ILLUSTRATE FOR MILLS X PRIMARK. THESE<br />

GENDER-FLUID LOOKS PLACE AUTHENTICITY ABOVE ENVIRONMENT<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY BY BENJAMIN VNUK<br />

CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong> 63


64<br />

CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong>


CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong> 65<br />

HAIR Joe Mills and Jody Taylor for MILLS x PRIMARK, Birmingham. CREATIVE DIRECTION Vivien Vittadello. GROOMING Sarah Exley.<br />

LIGHTING ASSISTANT Sebastian Johansson. DIGI OPERATOR Christopher Bromley. CREATIVE ASSISTANT Lauren Bouch


LIfE in<br />

colour<br />

A collaboration between Christabel Legrand and barber Luka Chitty, this<br />

collection is an expression of change. Channelling a futuristic grunge aesthetic,<br />

brighter colour combinations are explored with more intricate, precise cuts<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY BY POOCH PURTILL<br />

66<br />

CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong>


COLOUR Christabel Legrand using Pulp Riot. CUTTING Luka Chitty. MAKE-UP Danny Williams.<br />

MODELS Ryan Hampson, Ashley Knight, Jessica Haine<br />

See more and meet<br />

Luka and Christabel at<br />

creativeheadmag.com/PAINT<br />

CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong> 67


Scene<br />

THE HOTTEST EVENTS EVERY MONTH – GET YOURSELF SCENE!<br />

Collaborate<br />

Robert Eaton<br />

YOU SPIN<br />

Vernon Kay and<br />

Patrick Cameron<br />

me round<br />

TV STAR VERNON KAY and legendary Wella favourite Patrick Cameron led a fresh vibe<br />

at the <strong>2019</strong> Wella Professionals TrendVision UK & Ireland Final, held at London’s iconic<br />

Roundhouse. From the enormous video screen box to the central round stage, it was not<br />

business as usual for the 800 guests, illustrated further by the triple threat of creative<br />

presentations. Sassoon Academy explored its rich 65-year heritage in MonoFlouro, inspired<br />

by the work of Bauhaus master Josef Albers. There was an embarrassment of riches as the<br />

Collaborate presentation saw HOB Salons, Sanrizz, Lara Johnson Lifestyle, Charlie Taylor,<br />

Crow Street Collective by Darren Lacken, Goldsworthy’s and D&J Ambrose celebrate<br />

diversity in beauty. Finally, Wella UK & Ireland technical director Robert Eaton and his<br />

team from Russell Eaton unveiled Celestial, an otherworldly presentation that made the<br />

most of those huge video screens. It was then on to reveal the winners, with the UK &<br />

Ireland Gold <strong>Creative</strong> and Color Artist victors set to enjoy a trip to Seville early next year<br />

for the International TrendVision Award <strong>Creative</strong> Retreat.<br />

Goldsworthy’s Robert Eaton<br />

68<br />

CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong>


Sassoon<br />

Charlie Taylor<br />

And the winners are…<br />

<strong>Creative</strong> Artist<br />

Gold: Sophie Kinloch, McIntyres<br />

Silver: Brandon Messinger,<br />

The Hair Movement<br />

Bronze: Elaine Sneddon, Joseph Ferraro Hair<br />

Color Artist<br />

Gold: Heather Mackenzie, The Style Bar<br />

Silver: Thomas Frear, Spirit Hair Design<br />

Bronze: Joanne Roe, KH Hair Leicester<br />

Heather Mackenzie<br />

Gjorgi Sokolov Sophie Kinloch<br />

People’s Choice Award<br />

Gjorgi Sokolov, Headmasters Richmond<br />

Runway<br />

UK & Ireland: Stephanie Darbyshire,<br />

Toni&Guy Deansgate<br />

Men’s Grooming<br />

UK & Ireland: Dexter Dapper Johnson,<br />

Toni&Guy Covent Garden<br />

Darren Ambrose<br />

Lara Johnson Lifestyle<br />

The winners<br />

Dexter Dapper Johnson<br />

Stephanie Darbyshire<br />

CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong> 69


A VIENNESE<br />

whirl<br />

VIENNA – HOME OF OPERA, Mozart and numerous other<br />

creative endeavours, felt like the perfect setting for Goldwell’s<br />

<strong>2019</strong> Global Zoom. It proved to be a poignant evening with<br />

the announcement that this would be the last Global Zoom<br />

event, to be replaced by a brand new, revamped experience<br />

for 2020. Singapore didn’t quite manage a clean sweep, as the<br />

Netherlands had in 2018, but won an impressive two of the three<br />

Gold awards, with Russia taking the other prize. There was<br />

good news for the British contingency though, who all won the<br />

Stylists’ Favorite awards – Lauren Roma Hanlon from Slunks<br />

in Cardiff, Richard Munslow of Toni&Guy Hemel Hempstead<br />

and Courtney Cairns from Headromance in Havant, who also<br />

scooped the Bronze award for New Talent. More than 3,000<br />

global guests enjoyed a preview of the new Hair | Color | Style<br />

brand statement, a style bible for Goldwell’s coming year, as<br />

well as launches from Goldwell, KMS and Oribe and the reveal<br />

of its newest acquisition, tool brand VARIS. The new Goldwell<br />

Couture collection for 2020, INTREPID, took to the stage, as<br />

did new collections from Hare & Bone, M&P, ICONO and a<br />

demonstration by Mario Krankl. Mario’s final look was crowned<br />

with seven priceless diamond stars once owned and worn by<br />

Elizabeth, Empress of Austria and Queen of Hungary.<br />

The Hare & Bone team<br />

Lauren Roma Hanlon<br />

British judges Nicola<br />

Smyth and Shane Bennett<br />

Courtey Cairns<br />

Mario Krankl<br />

Sam Burnett<br />

70<br />

CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong>


<strong>Creative</strong> Colorist Gold<br />

M&P<br />

Jamie Benny<br />

And the<br />

winners are…<br />

<strong>Creative</strong> Colorist<br />

GOLD<br />

Russia<br />

SILVER<br />

Vietnam<br />

BRONZE<br />

Taiwan<br />

STYLISTS’ FAVORITE<br />

Lauren Roma Hanlon<br />

New Talent<br />

GOLD<br />

Singapore<br />

SILVER<br />

Malaysia<br />

BRONZE<br />

Great Britain<br />

STYLISTS’ FAVORITE<br />

Courtney Cairns<br />

Partner<br />

GOLD<br />

Singapore<br />

SILVER<br />

Vietnam<br />

BRONZE<br />

Russia<br />

STYLISTS’ FAVORITE<br />

Richard Munslow<br />

Richard Munslow<br />

The judges<br />

The winners New Talent Gold<br />

Courtney Cairns<br />

Partner Gold<br />

CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong> 71


Bea Carmichael Ian Michael Black<br />

Ricardo Dinis<br />

WELCOME TO THE<br />

Worldhood<br />

MEMBERS of the Aveda global artistic team kicked off a nine-day Worldhood<br />

2.0 tour of UK and Ireland in colourful style at Aveda’s Sky Room in London.<br />

The event offered a sneak-peek of what to expect from the coming season<br />

as well as the brand’s new colour range, Full Spectrum Vibrants. Set against<br />

a backdrop of clashing fashion, technical cuts and some serious model<br />

attitude, the eye-popping shades came alive during the launch. Ian Michael<br />

Black, Aveda’s global artistic director for colour, showcased a stunning array<br />

of shades (our favourite result was the mix of various hues of aubergine,<br />

boysenberry and violet on a bleached blonde pixie crop), while Ricardo Dinis<br />

and Bea Carmichael got busy with the styling, unveiling a plethora of textures<br />

and finishes to best show off the rainbow of bold shades on offer.<br />

72<br />

CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong>


Paddy McDougall, Nicola<br />

Clarke and Nick Irwin<br />

Nicola with Deborah Murtha<br />

Power<br />

OF THREE<br />

From being backstage at London Fashion Week to working<br />

on a tropical island with Leonardo DiCaprio, The Coterie’s<br />

first trip to Liverpool was stuffed with great stories of<br />

A-list talent. Hosted by <strong>Creative</strong> <strong>HEAD</strong>’s Deborah Murtha,<br />

and sponsored by BaByliss PRO, a huge crowd came<br />

together and was first treated to the dynamic duo of Paddy<br />

McDougall, the 2018 The It List It Guy, and his mentor<br />

Nick Irwin, a renowned session stylist. As a firm believer in<br />

supporting young talent, Nick has worked with Paddy on<br />

several projects, including shoots for Hunger magazine and<br />

at shows, and the two talked about collaboration. Then it was<br />

over to Nicola Clarke, the lady responsible for colouring the<br />

tresses of a host of Hollywood stars, who recalled winning her<br />

place as Sam McKnight’s assistant and how you have to work<br />

hard when your client list is packed with big names. “My<br />

family know I have to drop things at short notice. If Madonna<br />

calls… you’re available,” she said. Now with her own salon,<br />

she offers a creative place for big name hairdressers who<br />

want to drop in and use a chair – think Tracey Cunningham,<br />

Tyler Johnston and Sam McKnight.<br />

SEE MORE from the event online at<br />

creativeheadmag.com/thecoterie<br />

CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong> 73


A walk down memory lane<br />

at #TheCoterie in Liverpool<br />

with @creativeheadmag<br />

Werk, werk, werk! On set<br />

with #cateblanchett<br />

@armanibeauty<br />

Just hanging out with a couple of hair<br />

legends. Congrats @sammcknight1 for<br />

your #MWIT win. #KenORourke<br />

Love working with<br />

@madonna and travelling<br />

the world #LeoSisters<br />

In the<br />

frame<br />

Colour legend Nicola Clarke<br />

(@nicolaclarkecolour), founder<br />

of Nicola Clarke at John Frieda<br />

Salons, snaps away<br />

Finally @dualipa unwraps<br />

her new blonde. Thanks to<br />

@annacofone for trusting me<br />

SHOOT AND SEND Want to give us<br />

a snapshot of your world? Tweet<br />

us at @creativeheadmag now!<br />

Brunette beauty<br />

@emilia-clarke. Colour by<br />

me, bob by @jennychohair<br />

#Virtue #ColorKick<br />

Cate Blanchett ready to<br />

accept the Golden Icon Award<br />

at the <strong>2019</strong> @zurichfilmfestival<br />

Happy Birthday<br />

@katemossagency,<br />

love you to pieces<br />

@marygreenwell, Cate and me – we<br />

always find time for a giggle. Captured<br />

by @gregwilliamsphotography<br />

PEACHY #repost<br />

@fearnecotton<br />

74<br />

CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong>

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