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WineNZ Summer 2019-20

The authoritative guide to NZ's wine industry

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Feature | Waiiheke<br />

summer it swarms with holiday<br />

makers but most of the people<br />

you will see relaxing on the<br />

beach with a bottle of wine to<br />

accompany their picnic have not<br />

made the tortuous route by car.<br />

The boats from which they<br />

come are anchored in the bay!<br />

In contrast to the large<br />

number of individual vineyards<br />

the number of Man O’ War<br />

wines is relatively limited as the<br />

different sites are blended. The<br />

‘Ironclad’ Bordeaux blend has<br />

more than 29 components and<br />

Syrah is blended at two levels.<br />

Chardonnay also features at<br />

two levels. Interestingly the<br />

Sauvignon Blanc is blended with<br />

25% of Semillon, unusual for New<br />

Zealand’s take on this variety.<br />

MAN O’ WAR<br />

WINE pROFILES:<br />

Gravestone Sauvignon<br />

Blanc / Semillon <strong>20</strong>17<br />

- $29<br />

This wine represents an unusual<br />

direction for this variety with the<br />

inclusion of almost 25% Semillon,<br />

a common occurrence in France<br />

but not in NZ. Picked at very low<br />

levels, just 2 tonnes per ha it’s<br />

barrel fermented and aged for<br />

2 years in oak. “It’s the biggest<br />

surprise for our customer” Duncan<br />

reports, “Herbaceous and crisp.”<br />

The tasting notes refer to a ‘gin<br />

and tonic like finish!’<br />

Dreadnought Syrah<br />

<strong>20</strong>16 - $64<br />

Again this wine is from a large<br />

number of steep imposing sites,<br />

all with equally imposing names,<br />

such as ‘Asylum’,‘Big North’,<br />

‘Madmans’‘and North Face’;<br />

sites which have been dry farmed<br />

to increase resistance to drought.<br />

The individual batches have<br />

been separately vinified with<br />

wild yeasts and held on oak for<br />

18months before blending.<br />

“We like to think of it as richly<br />

textured but restrained and with a<br />

streak of acidity.”<br />

Man O’ War wines are available<br />

online www.manowar.co.nz<br />

GOLDIE ESTATE<br />

– HERITAGE<br />

WINE<br />

I always like circular stories;<br />

where the end relates directly<br />

to the beginning. The sort of<br />

thing where super sportsmen or<br />

women, when the medals dry<br />

up, end up coaching the high<br />

school team that jump-started<br />

their career.<br />

Goldie Estate on Waiheke is a<br />

good example of the process,<br />

except in this case it is the land<br />

that ends up returning to its roots.<br />

Too often in New Zealand we<br />

seem to sell our special pieces<br />

of land, especially if they have<br />

stunning views, to American<br />

steel barons or narcissistic pop<br />

stars. Or we just cover them with<br />

housing developments and car<br />

parks.<br />

Such might have been the fate<br />

12 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Summer</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>/<strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>

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