WineNZ Summer 2019-20

Feature | Waiiheke
David grins with pleasure when
I tell him that another winemaker
on the island referred to him as
Waiheke’s ‘Mr Syrah.’
Perhaps one of the secrets
of the success of the Passage
Rock wines lies not only with
their management of the home
vineyard, now expanded to 7ha,
but also to the grapes he sources
from two of the very earliest
Waiheke vineyards, both planted
on the promontory that reaches
to the north from Oneroa.
Both Fenton Estate and
Peninsula Estate (now Fossil Bay)
were founded in the early 90s
and while their proprietors are no
longer in the wine business, their
vineyards supply David with the
fruit from these older vines.
David attests to the success
of Syrah in Waiheke conditions
but he is still a proponent of the
Cabernet blends and the Reserve
Cabernet Merlot from 2015 is still
on the winery’s tasting schedule.
“They’re a sort of firm
handshake by comparison to
Syrah whose welcoming grip is
definitely not limp, but certainly
not so assertive! The Cabernets
can be show stoppers in the very
best of vintages; our 2010 vintage
was outstanding for it.”
Encouraged to try contrasting
vintages I found the differences
were immediate, with the 2015
having quite firm structure but the
2017 being more approachable.
David commented that Waiheke
was not always a good place to
grow grapes. “For while Syrah is
generally more straight forward
to manage, the Cabernet
wines are harder to perfect. But
sometimes, as with life itself, little
imperfections make things even
more interesting and appealing.
It’s certainly like that with our
Cabernet blends. And I like that.”
Passage Rock has a definite
‘hands on’ feel to it and when
I meet David to discuss their
winery journey we taste the wines
amongst the chaos of their bistro
renovation which looks out over
the vineyard and offers both
casual food such as Pizzas and
platters as well as more serious
options.
The winery offers their full
range for tasting and includes
Chardonnay, Viognier, Pinot Gris,
Sauvignon Blanc and rosé as
well as those Reserve Cabernet
Merlots and Syrahs.
Passage Rock may be a little
remote but both the visit and the
wines are well worth the effort.
pASSAGE
ROCK WINE
pROFILES:
Passage Rock
Cabernet Sauvignon/
Syrah/Merlot 2015
-$65
This wine is a combination of
fruit from both Passage Rock’s
own vineyards and that of
the Fenton Estate ‘Twin Bays’
vineyard planted in 1998 on
the headland north of Oneroa.
The home vineyard vines
were re-located shortly after
the vineyard was established to
enable plantings of a different
clone and to get more heat
exposure. It was blended
before vinification.
“It’s a wine for the focussed
drinker,” David pronounces
Passage Rock Reserve
Syrah 2014 - $65
The reserve Syrahs are only
made in the very best years
and David composed this
wine from a blend of the best
ten barrels with a more or
less equal proportions drawn
from both the home vineyard
fruit and that sourced from
the Fenton and Fossil Bay
sites. It won a trophy in the
International Wine Challenge
in London in 2016. “Look for
nuts, spices and dark berry
intensity,” says David.
Climatic conditions have
prevented production of the
reserves since this vintage
although one is definitely on
the cards for the 2019 harvest.
Wines can be bought at the
cellar door or online at
www.passagerock.co.nz.
▲ Owhanake has a unique pairing of fresh
sustainably Waiheke grown flowers and wine. Now
open every Saturday 9am to 1pm for their flower
market and free wine tasting.
▲ Mosaic Artwork and Gardens. Visit Casita Miro to
see their Gaudi inspired Mosaic artwork done by
the owner himself while feasting and enjoying their
fabulous garden views.
16 WineNZ Magazine | Summer 2019/2020