WineNZ Summer 2019-20

Waiiheke | Feature
There can be few areas in New Zealand that have gone
through as much of a transformation as Auckland’s
Hauraki Gulf showpiece, Waiheke Island, just 30
minutes by fast ferry from the city centre.
50 years ago, travel to the island was courtesy of the
‘Baroona’, the converted cargo ship originally destined
for work on the Kaipara Harbour. Two hours was the minimum
journey time to get to the beaches of Oneroa and Surfdale
in pursuit of the sunburn and blisters that in those days were
eagerly displayed as badges of honour.
The rugged hills of the eastern parts of the island. farmed for
cattle, were relatively untouched and the secluded bays of the
Ruthe Passage or the Tamaki Strait the provenance of sailors.
The island was known as a place where modest baches
surrounded the stunning beaches and where there were
scattered communities of colourful people with outlooks at
considerable variance to those of a largely conservative New
Zealand. Cannabis was not unknown and body piercing was in
its infancy.
But today, the Island is peppered with luxurious holiday homes
(certainly not baches anymore) and has become an essential
stop for visiting international glitteratti, be they pop stars, globetrotting
politicians, film makers or sporting heroes.
And it is not only the fast ferries that have made the difference.
For apart from the beaches and the stunning Gulf scenery
the onset of wine production in the 1980s has added a new
dimension to the island experience.
The world acclaim in the early 1990s accorded the pioneering
wines of Stephen White at Stonyridge and Kim and Jeanette
Goldwater at Putiki Bay signalled the ability of Waiheke to
produce truly significant wines that could stand alongside the
best of Bordeaux. International wine critics were both surprised
and impressed.
The transformation of Waiheke had begun.
Michael Cooper’s 1994 ‘Wines and Vineyards of New Zealand
quotes from Stephen White at around this time….
“In a decade, there’ll be 50 vineyards here. It’ll be Auckland’s
most heavily planted wine district. There’ll be a lot of restaurants,
and Waiheke will emerge as a sort of vineyard/gourmet holiday
area.”
And how true that has turned out to be!
For while the number of producers has not yet quite reached
the 50 mark the region now promotes itself as ‘The Island of
Wine’ and wineries and vineyards have spread to all parts of the
island, including those previously discarded eastern hillsides.
The range of wine experiences ranges from the lavish
upmarket tasting rooms and restaurants looking out to the
Auckland skyline in the distance, to the ‘hands on’ experiences
provided by individual vintners.
In almost every case not only are the wines available for
tasting but the venue provides added attractions be they wine
matched food, stunning seascapes, accommodation or event
venues for weddings and celebrations.
So here are three prominent Waiheke wineries whose journeys
to success have been different, whose locations are varied and
whose approaches to winemaking and visitor engagement are
in contrast.
www.winenzmagazine.co.nz
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