Adventure Magazine April 2020

N E W Z E A L A N D
ADVENTURE
WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS
SURVIVAL
TRAMPING
AVALANCHE
VOLCANOES
SNOW STORMS
EVEREST
SHARK ATTACK
ADVENTURE
KAYAKING
CLIMBING
BACKCOUNTRY SKIING
URBAN
INSPIRATION
MIND
STYLE
BUSINESS
ISSUE 219
DEC APR/MAY 2020
NZ $10.90 incl. GST
SIR RANULPH FIENNES
THE WORLD'S GREATEST LIVING EXPLORER

McCashin's Brewery
660 Main Road, Stoke, Nelson, New Zealand
T:+64 3 547 5357
E: orders@mccashins.co.nz #stokedinNZ

#219
Reminiscing
on a time
before social
distancing
and isolation.
Take me
back to
Panorama
Sir Ranulf Feinnes
The World's Greatest Living Explorer
Photo supplied
the simple art of travel
Visit Adventure Magazine online
www.adventuremagazine.co.nz
This is day six of the COVID-19 lockdown in New Zealand (I usually would not
mention that we were in New Zealand, but as you can see with this digital issue,
we have expanded free to the world).
The world media seems currently either in team ‘this is terrible’, or they are ‘it's
all fine’, stay home and ‘enjoy the time off’.
The reality is it is still very early days, and the virus has had an enormous
impact on some people already. Lots of people in the travel and adventure industry
have lost their jobs, and our heart goes out to them. It is scary not knowing what
the future holds. I am not going to rattle on about change, or how bad it will get or
even that it will improve. But what I am going to comment on is the goodness of
people.
I listened to Russell Brand recently in one of his political rants, one thing he
said that I thought was very relevant was how 'surprised' we are how kind and
generous people have been to each other. He went on to say we should not
be surprised because that is how it should be; we should always be kind and
generous of spirit.
Even walking down the beach, you can see families walking together, couples,
people on their own and they all greet each other with a smile. There is collective
angst against those who are breaking the lockdown rules, but a real sense by the
community that we are in this together.
Adventure Magazine, in 50 years, has never missed an issue, and even
though we don't have a printer or a distributor, we were determined to maintain
momentum and so have gone to a digital format, which we will look to continue in
the future. We wanted to make sure that those in isolation, those in lockdown, have
something of quality to read, so we have made this issue free to the world. We
hope people everywhere will enjoy it and feel free to get in touch if you have any
comments at all.
EDITOR & ADVERTISING MANAGER
Steve Dickinson
Mob: 027 577 5014
steve@pacificmedia.co.nz
ART DIRECTOR
Lynne Dickinson
design@pacificmedia.co.nz
SUBSCRIPTION ENQUIRIES
subs@pacificmedia.co.nz
DISTRIBUTION
Ovato, Ph (09) 979 3000
OTHER PUBLICATIONS (HARDCOPY AND ONLINE)
www.adventuremagazine.co.nz
www.adventuretraveller.co.nz
www.adventurejobs.co.nz
www.skiandsnow.co.nz
@adventurevanlifenz
PUBLISHERS
NZ Adventure Magazine is published six times a year by:
Pacific Media Ltd, P.O.Box 562
Whangaparaoa, New Zealand
Ph: 0275775014
Email: steve@pacificmedia.co.nz
adventuremagazine.co.nz
adventurejobs.co.nz | adventuretraveller.co.nz
Contributions of articles and photos are welcome and must be accompanied by a stamped
self-addressed envelope. Photographic material should be on slide, although good quality
prints may be considered. All care is taken but no responsibility accepted for submitted
material. All work published may be used on our website. Material in this publication may
not be reproduced without permission. While the publishers have taken all reasonable
precautions and made all reasonable effort to ensure the accuracy of material in this
publication, it is a condition of purchase of this magazine that the publisher does not assume
any responsibility or liability for loss or damage which may result from any inaccuracy
or omission in this publication, or from the use of information contained herein and the
publishers make no warranties, expressed or implied, with respect to any of the material
contained herein.
Our next issue is issue 200 – stay tuned!
Stay safe, stay healthy and stay connected.
Steve Dickinson - Editor
www.adventuretraveller.co.nz
JOBS
www.adventurejobs.co.nz

page 08
Image supplied
page 26
#219
contents
10//Sir Ranulph Fiennes
The World's greatest living explorer.
26//Survival Special
• Whakaare White Island
• Can you survive an eruption
• The Tongariro Crossing
• Trapped in a Snow Storm
• Evacuation from Everest
• Believe it or not
• Shark attack
Image by Michael Schade
Image by Red Bull Image by Eonel Barut
page 32
page 46
46//Taking the drop
Dane Jackson's 134ft decent
52//High Alpine Allure
The humble back country hut
54//adventure van life nz
Check out the latest on Van Life
65//urban adventure
Inspiration, activities and information for the urban
adventurer
92//Diagnosing Backcountry Ski addiction
Are you addicted?
96//A world of hidden gems
Explore Tongariro National Park
100//Andy's memorable marine adventures
Andy Belcher shares his incredible photos
104//Adventure travel
It's still there waiting for you
plus
64. subs
82. gear guides
114. Active adventure
FOLLOW US ON
www.facebook.com/adventuremagnz
adventuremagazine
www.adventuremagazine.co.nz
Nzadventuremag
JOIN THE CONVERSATION #ADVENTUREMAGAZINE
........
02//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#219

WOMEN’S COLOUR SHOWN – PEACOCK
Bare Access XTR ECO
Run Recycled
Take care of your planet and feet at the same time.
Our Eco Collection of durable shoes for running or training in leave a small footprint, no matter
your foot size. Built with recycled plastic, an algae midsole and Vibram® EcoDura outsoles which
use post industrial rubber offcuts. They’re shoes designed to make an impact : a teeny tiny one.
Available in both Men’s and Women’s.
Many Paths. One Trail
www.merrell.co.nz
.................................................................................... ................
Available at selected retailers nationwide or following Merrell stores
Takapuna Howick Whangamata Riccarton Queenstown

BEHIND THE COVER
Sir Ranulph Fiennes, was due to be visiting our shores in May for
a fascinating evening of tales about his adventurous life, before
Covid-19 put the world in lockdown. We are hoping he will be
able to reschedule but in the meantime find out all about this
incredible man's achievements on page 10 and we'll keep you
updated on any new dates as they come to hand.
THE SHARKBITE
Another great cocktail from our friends from Cocktail on the Rock. This
one has a bit of a story - We'll let Sue tell you the tale...
"That neighbour and good friend of ours (who also happens to be the
editor of Adventure) has been put off kayak fishing for life as he was
nearly eaten alive by a great white about a week ago – just in the distance
from our house (see the full story on page 40). As I’m quite pleased he
is still with us, I dedicated this dirty martini to him. The photo shoot with
my tasting team (hubby) took place at 8.00am on a Sunday morning to
fit in with the tides down at the rock. After shooting it, I left Shark Bite on
his fence as not to wake him. I was also inspired by @mr_cocktail_friday
with his dirty martinis. Here’s my reshake with vodka and Kaitaia Fire chili
pepper sauce. Are you ready to give Shark Bite a go?"
TO MAKE:
* 2 jigger vodka
* 1 jigger dry vermouth
* generous helping of Kaitaia Fire
* stir with plenty of ice
and pour into coupe
#glassfromthehospiceshop
* garnish with an olive
Approx 3g carbs per serve
Feedback received was that it
certainly had bite!
Follow Sue @cocktailontherock #cocktailontherock
For her regular newsletter signup at www.cocktailontherock.co.nz

SOFT LANDING
TECHNOLOGY
/
D R O P L I N E G T X
SHOCK ABSORPTION
MOTION GUIDANCE
SALEWA.COM
LATERAL STABILITY

posure
X

RED BULL ILLUME FINALIST
PHOTOGRAPHER: JOHN PRICE
LOCATION: Zapata, Texas
THE SHOT:
This is of Will Gadd who is well
known Canadian ice climber and
paraglider pilot. He formerly held
the paragliding world distance
record, with a flight of 423 km in
Zapata, Texas.
Image courtesy Red Bull content
pool

63,600 followers can't be wrong
JOIN THE CONVERSATION
08//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#219

@ adventuremagazine
@ adventuretraveller @ adventurevanlifenz

+
prof
ile
SIR RANULPH FIENNES
THE WORLD'S GREATEST LIVING EXPLORER
All images supplied
"It is a truism to say that the dog is largely what
his master makes of him: he can be savage and
dangerous, untrustworthy, cringing and fearful;
or he can be faithful and loyal, courageous and
the best of companions and allies.”
Sir Ranulph Fiennes
Sir Ranulph Fiennes has spent
his life in pursuit of extreme adventure
in some of the most ambitious private
expeditions ever undertaken. His
achievements are lengthy and in
1984 the Guinness Book of Records
named him the “world’s greatest living
explorer.”
Sir Ranulph was due to be visiting
our shores to share his tales of epic
adventures and explorations, when
Coronovirus hit and the world as we
know it was put into a spin.
His talk, “An Evening with the
World’s Greatest Living Explorer Sir
Ranulph Fiennes” has since been
delayed and we will let you know as
soon as a new date is scheduled, but
it will be a treat for any adventurer
or simply anyone looking for a
motivational and entertaining night
out. So to whet your appetite here's
a bit about the man behind the
accolades.
It seems strange that the person
who Sir Ranulph wished to emulate
was a person he would never meet,
his father. Sir Ranulph was born in
England in 1944, at the end of the
war which claimed the life of his father
just four months before he was born.
However his mother kept his memory
alive with stories of his exploits as
an officer in the British army and that
became Ranulph’s goal, to follow in
his father’s footsteps.
“My father had been killed in the
war 4 months before I was born. I
was brought up with stories of his
endeavours and I was inspired by
him more than anything else… I
wanted to do what he did, I wanted
to become the commanding officer of
the regiment.”
Ranulph spent his early childhood
in South Africa, where his mother
had moved with the family to avoid
the bombing of WWII and they did
not return to England until he was
12 years old. Sir Ranulph, or Ran
to his friends, talks about his school
years with much humour, and also
to highlight where motivation can
develop. His lack of academic
success and the roadblocks he
experienced along the way, meant
he had to find other ways to achieve
his goal, which at the time was to
become an officer in the British army,
just like his father.
“In his days you didn’t need A
levels to get a commission. I was
not designed to get A levels. The
only thing I could do was get a short
service commission, 3 years as an
officer and a further 5 years. After
8 years you get chucked out as the
rules do not allow you to stay in any
longer.”
He served the first 5 years in the
British army, stationed in Germany
during the cold war, before applying
for the SAS. His stories about those
days in the SAS are fascinating
and funny, including the story of
being thrown out of the SAS for his
part in a “public spirited gesture” of
helping a friend blow up a bridge in
a protest against 20th Century Fox.
He explains how he came to have so
much explosives to do the job.
“I was at an explosive course
in Hereford at the time, and at the
end of each day I had quite a lot of
explosives left over. Rather than hand
it back I thought it would be nice to
keep it.”
Fortunately for Ran, this all
happened in 1967, before the rise of
the IRA. If it had been a year later he
would have likely served more than 7
years in jail.
But it was his stint in the army in
the Sultan of Oman in the late 60’s
early 70’s that his love of travelling to
remote places really developed. After
three years in Oman, Sir Ranulf left
the army and returned to England.
“The only thing I could do was to
do what I had been doing in the cold
war in Germany, teaching Scottish
soldiers to canoe and climb to stop
them getting bored, which they did
cause the Soviet army never bothered
to attack.”
10//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#219

+
"I had just completed and Army explosives course, where you
learn to blow up as much as possible with as little as possible.
And I was pretty good at it."
Upon his return to England,
Ranulph, with no formal “education” as
such, had to think outside the box.
“I lacked in “exam intelligence”
which meant I had to go into
something that requires looking very
carefully at a problem, working out
where the difficulties of the problem
are, and attacking it from that side with
the right people.”
He married his childhood
sweetheart, Virginia Pepper in
1970, who he credits with many of
the expedition ideas. Together they
launched a series of record breaking
expeditions that kept them ahead
of their international rivals for three
decades. For Virginia’s support and
involvement in the many expeditions
she became the first woman to
be awarded the Polar Medal for
“outstanding service to British Polar
exploration and research.”
Virginia had the same love of
adventure as Sir Ranulf and one of
their first expeditions together was to
find the Lost City of Ubar, which the
Queen of Sheba had built thousands
of years before.
“My greatest achievement, the one
that took the longest, was to find the
Lost City of Incense in the greatest
desert in the world. So for 26 years,
after 8 separate expeditions we found
the Lost City. It is now the biggest
excavation works in Arabia.”
A lot can be said there about
perseverance.
Virginia passed away in 2004 from
cancer, aged just 56 years old and
Sir Ranulf met and married Louise
Millington and had a daughter and
step-son from his marriage to Louise.
The expeditions that Sir Ranulf
has led (of which there are numerous)
were varied and diverse but his
interest in the Arctic and Antarctic
regions was inspired by the need to
follow the sponsorship. He explains,
that without media coverage there is
no sponsorship and the media were
interested in the “cold” places.
This led to the expedition to
circumnavigate their way around the
world from top to bottom, a feat they
completed between 1978 and 1982.
This route had never been done
before and has never been achieved
since!
For many expeditions you can
study what the person before you has
done and see where they have gone
wrong, but for many of Sir Ranulph’s
expeditions, he went to places where
no one had been before. For this he
explains the need to have the right
people on board.
“Maybe you wake up in the
morning and you look out of the tent
and you see inbetween the two cliffs,
everything is rumbled and full of holes.
You want someone who is an expert at
doing that type of project. So you take
that particular person with you.”
Some of his other achievements,
which are extensive and at times
seemingly impossible or equally
foolish. He has been to the top of
the highest mountain, traversed
from the north to the south pole, and
run seven marathons in 7 days in 7
countries. However each year, despite
the challenges, Sir Ranulf has found
another expedition to challenge his
need for adventure.
As you can imagine, a life full of
adventure comes with some great
“work stories”. One of the most
extraordinary tales was during an
expedition in 2000, to walk solo and
unsupported to the North Pole. When
his sled fell through weak ice and
he was forced to pull it out by hand,
he suffered extreme frostbite to his
fingers on his left hand forcing him to
abandon the attempt. Upon return to
the UK the doctors wanted him to wait
several months before amputating the
severely frostbitten fingers, however
he became impatient with the pain.
“When I came back to the UK,
they wouldn’t amputate my fingers
for 5 months and my wife said I was
getting irritable, so we bought a black
and decker bench and a microsaw and
in the garden shed, she bought me a
cup of tea, and my thumb took me two
days to cut off. The physiotherapist
said I’d done a good job, but the
surgeon was not happy.”
In 2007, despite experiencing
ongoing heart issues he decided
to climb the Eiger in an attempt to
overcome his lifelong issues of vertigo.
“So I trained, because I couldn't
climb. It’s 6000 feet of sheer rock face
and in the first 300 feet I realised that
I couldn't do it. But by then the charity
cameras were filming it and I couldn't
get out of it. It was horrific. When I got
to the top I realised I hadn’t got rid of
the vertigo and I decided I would never
climb another mountain.”
However that did not put him off
climbing the highest mountain in the
world, Mt Everest. After two failed
attempts climbing (2005 and 2008), in
2009, at age 65 he reached the top.
“I tried in 2005, not long after I
had my first big heart attack. I did it
from Tibet. On my last night when I
was within 300m from the summit, I
got a heart attack on the rope. I had
glyceryl trinitrate in my pocket and I
was by myself; it was pitch black and
I was alone apart from my sherpa. I
was trying to tell him I was about to
die, you would think you would just
take out the pills, unscrew the top and
put the pills in your mouth but you've
got these big mitts on, you’re holding
onto a rope, its sheer, you’ve got ice,
12//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#219

Sir Ranulph during his stint in the Sultan Army
“I go on expeditions for the same reason an estate
agent sells houses – to pay the bills.”
Floating on an iceflow hoping to stay afloat during the Arctic melt
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 13

+
“You must have your “prepared reaction” to
things that go bad. You must have the right
equipment for bad things happening with the
weather, in the same way in a bank you have to
have big reserves."
it’s in pitch black, it’s a very different
situation. You’ve got an oxygen mask
on, you’ve got clothing all over the
place, it was three or four minutes
before I could find the bottle, I’m then
in a panic situation cause it felt like my
stitches where they tie you up after
a double bypass were being pulled
apart. I took the pills and I foamed like
a dog into this mask, but long story
short, I survived.”
After visiting the doctor when he
made it to the bottom the doctor asked
where his pills were and he showed
him the empty bottle. He had taken the
whole lot, where he should have taken
only two. He considers himself lucky to
have survived that mistake.
Not deterred from his first effort Sir
Ranulf had another failed attempt in
2008 from the Kathmandu side, before
successfully reaching the summit in
2009. In doing so Sir Ranulf raised
6.3 million dollars for Marie Curie, a
registered charitable organisation in
the United Kingdom which provides
care and support to people with
terminal illnesses and their families,
and became the eldest Brit to summit
Mt Everest.
To say the man’s achievements
are extraordinary, goes without saying.
He has allowed his body to be used
as a human experiment during and
after expeditions, and each expedition
has a charity and a science project
attached. But for Sir Ranulf, to achieve
this he needs sponsorship and for that
he explains that “you have to maintain
your lead over your known rivals at all
times.” Maybe this is what motivates
him? As he simply says.
“I was inspired by the necessity to
make a living rather than by a previous
explorer.”
Sir Ranulph’s life journeys have
not been without its health challenges
but he strongly believes age should
not be seen as one of them.
“Just because you are older you
don’t have to make that a reason for
not doing the challenges you would
otherwise want to do.”
The physical and mental
preparation stays the same, it just
differs slightly.
“Preparation mentally is learning
from other people's mistakes. In terms
of physically you have to find time to
do something everyday. When you are
50 you go for a one hour run, when
you are 60 it’s called a jog and when
you are 70 it’s called a shuffle. But you
still have to keep doing it.”
So how does he deal with fear?
“Fear comes in so many shapes
and sizes that no one strategy would
not, in my honest opinion, be enough.
So we hope first of all that we plan our
expeditions with as less encounter
with risk as possible, because if you
don’t encounter risk you are more
likely to break world records and
succeed, where other people have run
into risk and failed.
Firstly we plan it to avoid situations
of fear, but nonetheless every now and
then you do.
I’ve fallen into a deep crevasse in
a situation where I wasn’t tied up to
anything, just stuck by one ski stick
between two ice walls with 200 feet
beneath me. I was very very lucky to
get out of that.”
Sir Ranulph believes that a
person’s character should overweight
their experience. He believes that
you can’t teach character but you can
teach skills.
“On one occassion out of 800
applicants I only took 2. One of them
had never been on an expedition, he
was a beer salesman in London, the
other was a butcher in South Africa.
Out of 800 these two, their characters
were just perfect. When we put them
into bad situations, a bad side of their
characters did not appear, they were
not egocentric, they were not sarcastic
when they were feeling bad.”
Despite the best preparation,
things will go wrong. So how does Sir
Ranulph prepare for these situations?
“You must have your “prepared
reaction” to things that go bad. You
must have the right equipment for bad
things happening with the weather,
in the same way in a bank you have
to have big reserves. So crisis that
don't have reserves are the fault of
the people at the top and in my case
as leader of the expedition I am to
blame if I am not ready for very bad
weather at all times, you have to think
pessimistically.”
Sir Ranulph has also witnessed
firsthand the effects of global warming.
“In the 1970’s I was making
sledges a little bit waterproof in case
there was some water on the way
to the north pole. By the 1990’s I’m
designing them like canoes because
there is so much water.”
So you may wonder, at the age of
73, if there are any more adventures
left for Sir Ranulph and whether
retiring is an option. We’ll let him sign
off in his own words...
“Thinking about stopping is like
thinking about dying.”
14//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#219

First unsupported crossing of the Antarctic
"There is no bad weather, just
inappropriate clothing."
Some of Sir Ranulph's remarkable achievements
• First to reach both Poles (with
Charles Burton).
• First to cross
Antarctic and Arctic
Ocean (with Charles
Burton).
• First to
circumnavigate the
world along its polar
axis (with Charles
Burton).'This 3 year, 52
000 mile odyssey took intricate
planning, 1900 sponsors, a 52 person
team to handle, complex communications,
meticulous planning and iron determination mixed
with flexibility. The circumnavigation has never
been successfully repeated.
• Led the first hovercraft expedition up the longest
river in the world (the Nile) in 1968/1969.
• Achieved world record for unsupported northerly
polar travel in 1990.
• Led the team that discovered the lost city of Ubar
on the Yemeni border in 1992 (after seven previous
search expeditions over a 26 year period).
• Achieved world first in 1992/1993 by completing
the first unsupported crossing of the Antarctic
Continent (with Mike Stroud). This was the longest
unsupported polar journey in history.
• In 2003, only 3½ months after a massive heart
attack, 3 day coma and double bypass, Ranulph
Fiennes (with Mike Stroud) achieved the first 7x7x7
(Seven marathons in seven consecutive days on
all seven continents).
• March 2005, climbed Everest (Tibet-side) to within
300m of summit raising £2 million for the British
Heart Foundations new research MRI scanner.
• March 2007, Sir Ranulph climbed the North Face
of the Eiger (with Kenton Cool and Ian Parnell) and
raised £1.8 million for Marie Curie Cancer Care's
Delivering Choice Programme
• Winner of ITV Greatest Britons 2007 Sport
Award (beating the 2 other main nominees Lewis
Hamilton and Joe Calzaghe)
• May 2008, climbed Everest (Nepal-side) to within
400m from summit raising £2.5m for Marie Curie
Cancer Care Delivering Choice Programme
• Marie Curie 2008 ‘Above and Beyond Award’
Winner
• Successfully summited Everest May 2009 with
Thundu Sherpa making a total for Marie Curie of
over £6.2m. The oldest Briton ever to summit.
• Becomes the oldest Briton, at the time, to complete
the Marathon des Sables – the ‘toughest footrace
on earth’ in aid of Marie Curie.
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 15

+
volcanoes
FALLING IN LOVE
WITH CHARLOTTE
By Helen Pelham, Lynne Dickinson and Linda
Lennon
WHAKAARI WHITE ISLAND ERUPTION
In the immediate aftermath of the
White Island eruption on December
9th 2019, I was overwhelmed, as was
everyone I am sure, by the level of
support and compassion shown for
those affected by the tragedy that
unfolded. Heroic actions by the tour
guides and other tourists visiting the
island along with the local helicopter
pilots were shared around the world
and once again our country became
united by another tragedy.
It didn’t seem to take long
before the naysayers were out in full
force, criticising every aspect of the
devastating event; the way the cruise
ship responded, the way the police
and rescue crews responded, and then
questioning why tourists were even
allowed on the island in the first place.
I know that if I had been on the
cruise ship then I would have been one
of those people who signed up to go
to White Island and walk on the active
volcano. I’ve always been drawn to
the thing that pushes you outside of
your comfort zone, however, I think in
the back of my mind that although I
have been aware of the inherent risks
in outdoor adventures I’ve always
believed (obviously wrongly) that as
long as I didn’t make a mistake, that all
would be OK.
What we seem to forget, and what
the White Island tragedy reminds us
of, is the fragile and volatile nature
of nature itself. Regardless of the
numerous warning systems in place
and regular monitoring of volcanic
activity, White Island erupted without
warning.
16//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#219

This photo was taken by American tourist Michael Schade who left the island just moments before it erupted.
"What we seem to forget,
and what the White Island
tragedy reminds us of,
is the fragile and volatile
nature of nature itself."
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 17

+
Two White Island Tour guides disembarking the boat in the moments after the eruption - Image by Michael Schade
White Island is not our only active
volcano and not the only one where
tourists visit regularly. Each winter, Mt
Ruapehu hosts close to 10,000 people
each day of each weekend as people
flock to the mountain to ski and board
and simply sight see. Mt Ruapehu is
New Zealand's largest active volcano
and began erupting at least 250,000
years ago. In recent history it has had
major eruptions every 50 years; 1895,
1945, 1995-1996, with smaller eruptions
more frequently, at least 60 have been
recorded since 1945 and even these
have been large enough to cause
damage to the ski fields.
Although no lives were lost in the
initial 1945 eruption, it did cause the
damming of the Crater Lake, which
collapsed in 1953 causing a lahar which
in turn caused the Tangiwai disaster
which claimed 151 lives.
In 1995 a series of eruptions took
place on Mt Ruapehu resulting in a
dramatic eruption in September of that
year, with the eruption plume rising 12km
high, rocks thrown as far away as 1.5km
from the crater and three lahars racing
down river valleys. Eruptions continued
throughout the remainder of the year
and through to June 1996, however the
mountain still opened for the ski season
that year. Fortunately, no lives were lost
in the 1995 eruption, and as a result of
the activity that year new regulations
were put in place to more closely monitor
the volcanic activity levels.
Eruptions have continued on Mt
Ruapehu with young climber, William
Pike, losing his leg through rockfall from
an eruption in September 2007.
The hut that William Pike was in was buried
in the 2007 eruption on Mt Ruapehu
In 2012 volcanologists warned of
building pressure beneath the crater
lake with an eruption likely to occur in
the following months. There have been
numerous warnings since then but the
mountain still remains open for business.
So the question remains, what is
considered a reasonable risk? Some
would argue that any visit to an area
that is active is outside of reasonable
risk, however, were the visitors to White
Island simply unlucky or was that an
avoidable catastrophe?
If we were to avoid all things that
had inherent risk attached we would not
venture on our roads or let our kids walk
to school. Life is full of risks, some that
can be controlled and others that can’t.
The secret is to do our best to minimise
those risks without letting them interfere
with that art of living.
So what could the visitors to
Whakaari White Island have done
differently? And how did some of them
survive with minor injuries while others
perished. The answer seems to lie
in simple luck. If you were one of the
people standing on the edge of the
volcano when it erupted, there was not a
lot that you could have done to alter the
course of events. However, those down
at the water's edge had some choices.
Some jumped into the water straight
away which saved them from some of
the worst of the injuries. Others sought
shelter behind large rocks which gave
them some protection from the initial
blast. But when the air is so toxic and
the eruption so sudden, the only way to
survive was to get off the island and into
care as soon as possible.
Those people that risked their lives to
retrieve those stranded on White Island,
went a long way towards giving those
injured a chance of survival. To date
there have been 22 deaths from the 47
reportedly on the island at the time of the
eruption.
18//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#219

The two guides returning to the boat with survivors - Image by Michael Schade
With the most recent deaths has once
again come some finger pointing. A relative
of one of the deceased believes that “proper
safety equipment” would have saved his
family, such as appropriate heat resistant
gear/clothing, safety glasses, helmets and
face masks.
The questions have also been asked
about the comprehensive disclosure of
associated risks with such activities, and this
is what was posted on the White Island Tour
website prior to the December 2019 eruption:
“Whakaari/White Island is currently on
Alert Level 2. This level indicates moderate
to heightened volcanic unrest, there is the
potential for eruption hazards to occur. White
Island Tours operates through the varying
alert levels but passengers should be aware
that there is always a risk of eruptive activity
regardless of the alert level. White Island
Tours follows a comprehensive safety plan
which determines our activities on the island
at various levels.”
Despite the clear message we often
overlook the “fine print” in our excitement to
take part.
In the aftermath of the disaster, the
blast is currently subject to two inquiries,
a coronial investigation and another by
Worksafe NZ.
Whakaari White Island Reviews from Trip Advisor
"We Went. It was a once in a lifetime adventure - standing
on the crater floor of an active volcano - spewing forth sulfa,
steam and other toxic gases - truly the inspiration for the fire
and brimstone concept of Hell. Three days later, it erupted
killing and burning many. That really shook us up. I doubt
they'll ever let tourists visit again."
"I don't think there were any passengers that were naïve
enough to believe that landing on an active volcano didn't have
inherent risks. That was part of the thrill - doing something that
others are afraid to witness."
“So what happens to White Island now? I doubt that tours
will be permitted in the future even for those brave enough
or curious enough to want to make them with a small but
significant local employment knock on effect. Commercial
considerations including insurance cover will be prohibitively
high, certainly in the foreseeable future. Perhaps it is time
to leave White Island to the sea birds and the occasional
volcanologists doing their assessments which seem on this
occasion to have been so tragically disregarded. When we
visited The killing Fields just outside Pnom Penh we felt
that some places just should not be for tourists. Perhaps,
admittedly in a vastly different context, the same might now be
true for White Island?"
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 19

+ eruptions "They are unpredictable,
CAN YOU SURVIVE AN ERUPTION?
A volcano is defined simply as “an opening in
the Earth’s crust that allows molten rock, gases,
and debris to escape to the surface.” A volcanic
eruption does not always involve lava, but will
throw debris, volcanic ash and steam into the air at
speed and this can travel 100’s of miles from the
volcano. They are unpredictable, often extremely
violent and can happen without warning.
The violence of an eruption is measured by
the volume of materials discharged and the height
of the column. This is known as the VEI (volcanic
explosive index). The eruption of Whakaari White
Island in December last year threw steam and ash
3.7km into the air and had a VEI of 2.
often extremely violent
and can happen without
warning."
20//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#219

Mt. St. Helens
mushroom cloud,
40 miles wide
and 15 miles
high. Camera
location: Toledo,
Washington,
35 miles westnorthwest
of
the mountain.
The picture is
a composite
of about 20
separate images.
Images by Rocky
Kolberg
Mt St Helens, in Washington, USA last erupted in
2008 but is most known for the 1980 eruption that created
the largest landslide ever recorded. Ash was blown over
cities hundreds of miles away and over 57 people were
killed. Despite the destruction and death toll, the mountain
was reopened to climbers 7 years later and remains
open today. (VEI level 5)
Mt Vesuvius
erupting in
1944 with
Naples in the
foreground.
Image US
Navy File No
54410
Mt Vesuvius in Italy is well known for the eruption of 79
A.D. that destroyed the city of Pompeii killing thousands of
people. It has been quiet since 1944 after having produced
several explosive eruptions that have produced fast moving
streams of scalding hot gas and volcanic matter. But more
significant is the fact that 6 million people live within 100km
of the mountain. (approx VEI level 5)
The driver
of a pickup
truck
desperately
tries to
overeun a
cloud of ash
spewing
from the
volcanic
eruption of
Mt Pinatubo
in 1991.
This image
by
Alberto
Garcia went
on to win
numerous
awards.
In 1991, after 500 years
of inactivity, Mt Pinatubo
in the Philippines erupted.
The force of the eruption
blew lava and ash 34km
into the air, killing 847
people. It was the 4th most
violent eruption in history
and the second in the
last two decades. Despite
the recent eruption, more
than 21 million people live
within 100km radius of Mt
Pinatubo. (VEI level 6)
Lava from a
fissure slowly
advanced to
the northeast
on Hoʻokupu
Street in
Leilani Estates
subdivision.
Kilauea Volcano in Hawaii had been erupting almost
continuously between 1983 and 2018. Although no lives
were lost, hundreds lost their homes. (VEI level 4)
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 21

+ tramping
THE TONGARIRO ALPINE CROSSING
- IS IT A WALK IN THE PARK?
Insights from NZ Mountain Safety Council
With the second death in just over a
month on the Tongariro Alpine Crossing,
it seems prudent to take a moment to
consider the risks in undertaking what is
considered one of the best day walks in
New Zealand. It is a challenging 19.4km
hike taking on average around 7 hours to
complete. It passes through raw volcanic
terrain and reaches an altitude of over
1800 metres.
On average over 150,000 people walk
the track each year (This is the highest
number of walkers of any track in NZ that
takes more than half a day) with 30-40
people requiring rescueing. Many people
are unprepared, unsuitably dressed for
the changeable weather and have no
idea of what to expect, and others simply
underestimate the level of fitness needed
to cross the rugged terrain.
In 2007, after two deaths from
hypothermia in 2006, the name of the
track was changed from the Tongariro
Crossing to the Tongariro Alpine Crossing
to highlight the extreme weather
possibilities on the exposed terrain.
Weather, or the rapid change of alpine
weather has been a factor in people
getting into difficulty on the track. Most
people hike the track in summer and
assume that they will experience the
settled weather we come to expect at
that time of year in the rest of the country.
However, in the mountains, extreme
weather can hit at any time and without
shelter and limited visibility it is easy to get
into trouble.
Meteorologist, Lisa Murray explains.
“As you change elevation from sea level
to the mountains a number of things begin
to happen that will potentially have an
impact on your trip. Using the Tongariro
Alpine Crossing (TAC) as an example,
the difference in elevation between Taupo
and the summit of the track is around
1500 metres. Because of atmospheric
lapse rate, the ambient temperature will
be about 10°C colder at the summit than
at Taupo.”
Not only does the changing weather
mean an increase in hypothermia cases,
it also equates for people getting lost on
the track. Poor visibility means people are
likely to make a wrong turn and this can
result in deadly consequences.
In 2019 DOC initiated a public bad
weather advisory that would inform people
that the crossing was “not recommended
today” if the weather was considered
inappropriate for a safe crossing. This
followed the death of a woman whose
body was found by Red Crater after
becoming separated from her group. The
weather was considered less than ideal.
The previous year also saw a death in
similar circumstances. A group of four men
became separated, with three turning back
and one continuing over the crossing,
he never made it. All were unprepared,
wearing only hoodies, sweatpants and
running shoes. The weather was dry when
they started, but began to drizzle as they
got higher, eventually becoming a blizzard
once they reached Blue Lake. This was
forecast to happen, but the forecast was
not checked by the group beforehand.
Local Police involved in rescues have
four key messages for anyone thinking of
doing the crossing.
1. Wear appropriate clothing
2. Keep an eye on the weather
3. Stick together
4. Be prepared to turn back
However, it’s not always misfortune
or lack of preparation that is the cause of
death on the crossing.
In 2018, 56 year old Bernhard
Hanssen was found collapsed on the
track by passing hikers. Despite CPR
he was unable to be saved. However,
nothing in his death could be attributed
to his fitness, preparation clothing or
equipment. He carried plenty of food,
a torch, cell phone, battery pack, spare
clothing and emergency gear. He was
considered physically fit but an unknown
heart condition was found to be the cause
of his death.
Earlier this year, 75 year old Gerd
Wilde from Germany decided to attempt
the track with his son. He was in the
middle of a whirlwind bucket list adventure
with his son after spending the previous
six years fighting prostate cancer. New
Zealand and the Tongariro Alpine Crossing
were both on his list. He died as a result of
a heart attack halfway along the track.
So who does the responsibility lie with
to ensure a safe and secure crossing?
Of course it lies firstly with ourselves, but
what responsibility, if any, should tourism
play. The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is
promoted as one of the best day walks
in the world with social media channels
and the like spouting it’s praises. Nearly
75% of those who walk the Tongariro
Crossing are overseas visitors, often from
areas without extreme alpine conditions.
Given their often limited time in our
country and their desire to “see all the
best bits” they will jump on board without
truly understanding what they are getting
themselves into. Motivated by pictures on
instagram and “tips” from every so-called
influencer, they often find themselves well
outside their comfort zone and more often
than not, unprepared for the worst.
Tongariro Alpine Crossing Emerald Lakes
Image by Laura Smetsers
22//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#219

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 23

+
Always be aware of the changing weather conditions in any alpine environment. Image by Daniel Chen
IN 2017, 1,539,133 PEOPLE WENT TRAMPING
FOR EVERY 279 TRAMPERS, 1 SOUGHT MEDICAL HELP
FOR EVERY 3,109 TRAMPERS, 1 REQUIRED SEARCH AND RESCUE ASSISTANCE
FOR EVERY 219,876 TRAMPERS, 1 NEVER MADE IT HOME
24//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#219

The Tongariro Alpine Crossing has by far
the most incidents, however it also caters for
the highest number of visitors. 150,000 walk the
Tongariro Crossing each year compared to 15,000
on the Milford Track.
In 2018 the NZ Mountain Safety Council
(MSC) produced a report called “A Walk in the
Park? A deep dive into tramping incidents in New
Zealand. It makes for some interesting reading
on the statistics surrounding our most popular
outdoor activity.
In the ten years between 2007 and 2017, 57
people lost their lives in tramping accidents; 31
from falling, 21 from drowning, 6 from hypothermia
and the remainder from avalanches and other
such incidents.
The role of the MSC is in preventing safetyrelated
issues in land-based outdoor recreation.
Fatalities due to natural cause or suicide were not
analysed as they are not deemed to be safetyrelated
issues. E.g. Gerd Wilde (case above)
could have had his heart attack at any other point
of his journey in NZ such as in a spa in Rotorua or
walking along Queen Street.
Of the 57 deaths, 32 were Kiwis and 25 were
international visitors.
The MSC noted that the most prominent
causal factor of a fatality while tramping was
competence, or lack of, attributing to 66% of the
deaths occurring over the decade. Competence
includes relevant experience, level of skill etc.
The second most prominent causal factor
was social and psychological factors; the state
of mind of the tramper, which attributed to 62%
of the fatalities; the desire to get to a destination,
taking a 'short cut', or underestimation of risk were
causes that factored highly.
By comparison, weather and equipment
were seen as the cause of only 32% and 28% of
tramping deaths respectively.
The other interesting information was where
fatalities occurred as a result of ignoring advice,
88% were male. Not surprisingly, where fatalities
occurred as a result of ignoring signs, 100% were
international visitors.
Many people have a strange way of weighing up risk against benefits
and can convince themselves that everything will be alright, despite many
obvious signs that it won’t be. This is also known as “confirmation bias” or
underestimating the risk. MSC insights have discovered that this was a factor
in at least 17% of tramping fatalities between 2007 and 2017. The fact that
so many other people have “done the crossing” and do so every year gives
people a false sense of the safety of the experience. Our tourism machine
has done a great job of making people really want to have an experience,
despite the risks involved.
So what can we do with all this information?
Hopefully the research can help us to make better
decisions, be aware of where the risks lie and help
us become better informed. It has also highlighted
some specific solutions for the Tongariro Alpine
Crossing ranging from more targeted advertising
of alternative tracks in the area, improvements in
parts of the track itself, through to the employment
of full time rangers on the track to offer
assistance and assess trampers progress, and
the development of technology that would track
trampers progress.
However, the final buck stops with us. Will
our egos allow us to make sure we take all risk
assessments into consideration? Will our egos
allow us to turn back if the weather is inclement?
Will our egos allow us to admit that the exercise
is outside our ability levels? Or will we make what
could be a fatal error of judgement?
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 25

posure
X
26//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#219

RED BULL ILLUME FINALIST
PHOTOGRAPHER: BEN THOUARD
LOCATION: Teahupoo, Tahiti
THE SHOT: The image by the Tahitian
photographer Ben Thouard. Ben has
made Teahupo’o’s famous wave his
backyard and his favourite place to
shoot. The image was called "The Fight"
for obvious reasons. This was entered in
the 2019 Red Bull Illume
Image courtesy Red Bull content pool

+
snow
storms
TRAPPED IN A
SNOW STORM
By Geoff Hunt
Before technology had really caught up
with the outdoor industry, Geoff and his friends
found themselves in trouble when their tent
was unable to withstand the weight of a heavy
snow storm. Today, the modern design of tents
would have meant a very different experience,
but we’re talking the 1970’s when touring tents
were a triangular shape with two poles. Geoff
shared his experience of his night in the snow
on Franz Josef glacier.
Cold and hungry we faced a choice - the
snow had been falling so hard that our tent was
collapsing on us, even with two people outside
at all times clearing snow. Time to decide - we
could not go anywhere with the weather the
way it was but we did need to do something.
We were camped on the Franz Josef névé and
there was nowhere to go. A snow cave was the
only solution . . . . . . but before I get ahead of
myself. Let me set a little background.
The story really begins some months before
with a climb of Mt Tasman. On a visit to Mt
Cook’s Unwin Hut, Judy Norman said to me
“get this grumpy bear (husband Shaun) out of
here - he is driving me crazy.”
Shaun volunteered that we go and climb
Mt Tasman. I did remind him that I had little
experience at ice climbing but he said - “you
will be fine so away we went”
The following day - equipped to climb steep
snow and ice we were away. Boarding a ski
plane we were quickly dropped at Plateau Hut
where after eating super we retired to our warm
sleeping bags. It was going to be an early start.
Shaun has decided that a little experience with
ice climbing should probably be good for this
‘skier’ boy - so the training hill was Mt Dixon.
Mount Dixon is the 23rd highest peak in
New Zealand, rising to a height of 3,019 metres
28//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#219

The drop off point at the top of Franz Josef Glacier
Image by Belle Hunt
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 29

+
A successful ascent of Dixon and I am ready for
Mt Tasman ( the second highest mountain in NZ,
rising to a height of 3,497 metres). Well not really
ready, but a little more confident that I will not hold
Shaun up too much. So once again we retire early
to our warm sleeping bags, the last time we would
see them for 40 hrs or so.
An early mountain climbing start of 1.30am and
I was following Shaun on crampons across the
Grand Plateau on the way to the base of the climb
of Tasman. A climb of Silverhorn Ridge to Engineer
Col and on to the summit is the standard route on
Tasman.
We climbed successfully, me on my tip toes on
ice for the first time. My slow ascent and descent
left us a bit late in the day and the call was made to
spend a night in a crevasse rather than keep going
through the dark. Mmmm - sleeping bag where are
you? Oh yes, in the hut! So I crawl into my pack, on
top of the flaked out rope, and finally fell asleep.
A toe in my side wakes me.
“Wake up Geoff”
“Hah - time to go?”
“No, you were asleep and I wasn’t."
Thanks Shaun.
At dawn we return to the hut for late breakfast
and a cup of tea or five and then it’s on our way
again. From the Grand Plateau we cross Cinerama
Col, onto the Caroline Glacier, skirting left under
the Anzac Peaks to the ridge line above the Boyes
Glacier (Boyes Col) and on down onto the Tasman
and home. Sounds easy but I can assure you it is
not. I survived it easy enough though.
But this story is not about that trip but is really
about being stuck on the top of the Franz Josef
névé near the Tusk, with super guide Shaun, and
ski buddies Hamish Cochrane, Ross Ewington and
Andrew Secombe. All of them totally inexperienced
at glacier and backcountry ski travel.
Planned over a beer or two no doubt; a ski trip
into the high mountains with a guide for some safety.
The plan was to fly into the top of the Fox Glacier,
ski a few lines and climb through Newton Pass
and camp near the Tusk for another couple days
skiing on the Fritz Range with stunning views of the
Tasman below, and then out via Almer Hut.
All sounds great, and it was, except as we
climbed back towards home after another fantastic
day ski touring the clouds started to close in and
gentle snow drifts began to gather. Not a problem
we thought, we have a good expedition tent, we’ll be
fine.
We settled in comfortably in the tent for the
overnight storm, or perhaps a day long storm. We
had food, the tent was well located and the company
was good. Note: there were no cell phones then to
check weather with, and in fact there would be no
reception there even if we have had had them.
During this first night the snow intensified and
begun to weigh on the tent. So we would push it up
from the inside and it slid off. By morning, however
it was snowing hard and we took turns at suiting up,
climbing out of the warm sleeping bags and clearing
the tent. We’d get the snow off, dig it out from the
side and increasingly throw it out of the hole that we
are sitting in.
The snow began to build up, as first a foot and
then another foot of snow fell during the day. The
weight was loading the tent and putting strain on
the two poles and slowly pushing the fabric down.
We found that a cup solved that for a while, placed
upside down on the pole with a plate on top of that,
but we were losing the battle. By the next night it
took two people outside at all times working around
the tent, clearing the snow. However there was more
snow falling than our ability to clear it off the tent
even with two people outside at all times.
Of course, it was not only the tent that was
getting weighed down, but we are getting wet
outside as well and dragging that back into the tent.
By now the roof was just above our heads
Cold and hungry we faced a choice. The snow
had been falling so hard that our tent was collapsing
on us, it was time to decide. We could not go
anywhere with the weather the way it was but we
did need to do something. We were camped on the
Franz Josef névé and there was nowhere to go. A
snow cave was the only solution . . .
The Tusk is not far away so Shaun headed out
on a compass setting and using ski poles to mark
his route enabled me to follow him to the Tusk wind
scoop, the only practical place that we can dig a
cave. With Shaun tunnelling and me clearing the
entrance we are soon enough inside and ‘out of the
storm’ but wet and hot from digging like moles. The
others joined us in due course bringing the sleeping
bags, mats, stove and supplies.
We continued digging and soon had a luxury
cave with sleeping shelves a cooking bench and a
foot hole. Luxury after the cramped living conditions
of the tent. However, after another day of storm
conditions the weight of snow above begins to
compress our space. Where once we had room to sit
comfortably, our roof is getting closer and closer.
My sleeping bag was abandoned in the tent; too
wet to bring over was the call made by the others
as they packed up and so I end up sharing a bag
with Ross - he is ‘loving’ it. Squashed tight in a bag
with another man was way outside his comfort zone,
and I mean way outside. He mumbles constantly to
himself about this situation.
“Your turn to clear the door tunnel."
That’s not much fun either.
“What’s it doing outside?”
Hmmm snowing and blowing.
“What’s for dinner?”
Hmmm fresh snow and soup.
30//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#219

Looking back down towards the Franz Josef Glacier
Image by Makalu
"We were camped onthe Franz Josef névé and there was
nowhere to go. A snow cave was the only solution."
A day and night pass before the storm
passed and we emerged like moles, hungry
from lack of food and with no energy.
We still had to get out of this situation and
we have wet clothing, wet sleeping bags, no
food and no skis. Our skis had been used as
snow stakes to hold up the tent in the storm
and now we have to find first the tent location
and then the skis attached to the guy ropes.
The tent is relatively easy to find, 50
paces west of the Tusk wind scoop we find
a slight depression in the snow and decide it
must be the tent site. A probe or two reveals
indeed it is, but everything is buried beneath
feet of snow. Patiently we dig, first one ski
and then another. Digging 6 feet down we find
the tent and salvage a few things from it. All
the time following guy ropes to one ski after
another. It’s a slow day but finally we find all
the skis, bar one.
We can’t leave with one person only on
one foot so back to it, patiently working our
way around the deep hole probing, looking for
that last ski. We finally find it and with much
relief we can leave this hole in the glacier.
Almer Hut sits 400 meters lower across
the other side of the glacier, about 4kms
away but we can’t go directly but instead
have to skirt slowly through the deep snow till
we reach a position where we can descend
safely down the edge of the glacier and finally
off the edge into a steepish snow gut down to
the hut. We flopped down outside in the sun
while Shaun went in to use the radio.
The operator sounded relieved to hear
from us. Judy had been calling through the
network for any word from our party (there
had been three foot of snow in Mt Cook
village during the storm).
Soon enough a helicopter was on its way
and it’s a very weary party that climbed on
board for the short trip down to the green
landing pad in Franz Josef.
High fives and smiles and a story to tell.
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 31

+
ALTITUDE
SICKNESS on everest
EVACUATION FROM
THE BASE OF
EVEREST
Interview with Robert Bruce
Last issue we talked to Robert Bruce, founder of the adventure group Got to Get
Out, who'd just completed his fourth group trek to Nepal, this time to Everest Base
Camp (EBC). With 30 mostly Kiwis (or people with strong NZ connections) they headed
into the Nepal winter enduring temperatures of -20 to -40, while we enjoyed the NZ
summer.
As leader of this large group, Rob learned the hard way no matter how prepared
you are, at altitude there's always a chance that things can go wrong. He shares what it
was like arranging an emergency evac from the foot of Mt Everest..
32//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#219

Everest Base Camp, image by Anaya Bilimale
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 33

+
Some guests got altitude
sickness, tell us about that? What
happens up high? Altitude sickness
is an unfortunate reality of trekking
at altitude, and despite EBC being
considered relatively 'easy' by some,
it should not be underestimated. I've
done EBC three times now as well
as Annapurna Circuit trek in Nepal,
and I can confirm the risks are real.
Trekkers to EBC are climbing five
hundred or more vertical meters a day
for up to eight hour a day, for fifteen
days (there and back). With reduced
hygiene facilities, extreme cold in
winter, unusual foods and fatigue added
in.. there's certainly a risk of altitude
sickness, as I have now experienced
first-hand.
How had you prepared your
guests for altitude sickness? I must
start this answer by saying that in my
opinion our group of trekkers were
highly prepared for this trip. Some of
our precautions included pre departure
meetings and many emails discussing
gear list, medical needs, likely
temperatures, what to bring and how to
train. I shared links to information like
blogs and videos, and other useful tips
to help get my guests ready for nearly
three weeks in a third world country,
in the middle of winter. In-Nepal when
we were all together for the first time,
we held a huge group briefing with
our expert local guides, recapping the
route, discussing how to pack, and
basically sharing what to expect in their
adventure ahead. During the trek itself
I hosted daily check-ins with the whole
group, providing significant support
to anyone feeling unwell or offering to
lighten loads.
I believe guests knew full-well
the chance of getting ill from altitude
sickness, and what symptoms to look
for (in themselves, and others). I feel
they also knew what would happen if
the guides or I deemed them too unwell
to continue ascending or descending..
Our trained Nepalese guides from a
leading Nepal-based trekking company
have hundreds of EBC (and other
Himalayan) treks under their belts
and knew what to look for in terms of
identifying altitude sickness. Though,
it should be noted a mountain guide
from most trekking company’s, as far
as I am aware, is not the same as an
alpine doctor, so they are not mandated
to provide medical care per se, only
to identify sickness and act on this by
arranging help or sending someone
home.
What is altitude sickness? In
simple terms, as a human ascends
higher in altitude, there is less oxygen
in the air so people need to breath
harder, more often, to get the same
amount of oxygen into their blood as
at ground level – it gets increasingly
harder to perform both physically and
mentally the higher up a mountain you
ascend. The effects of less oxygen can
be alleviated with ‘acclimatization’ days
whereby you ‘climb high and sleep low’,
though, in general, descending is the
best / only way to improve your health
quickly, if you start getting ill.
Some of the main (early) symptoms
of altitude sickness include;
Loss of appetite
Headache
Nausea
Fatigue
Coughing
High heart rate
Low blood oxygenation.
If left untreated or if a patient
does not descend fast enough,
these early symptoms above can
eventually become quite serious
altitude sicknesses like HACE (high
altitude cerebral edema) or HAPE
(high altitude pulmonary edema. Over
the years many climbers and trekkers
including those to the relatively low
level of EBC (when compared to
climbing a Himalayan summit, let alone
Mt Everest) who continued upwards
instead of heeding the warnings,
have become very ill and some have
sadly even died. So altitude sickness
is a serious matter for trekkers in the
region, and everyone on the Got To
Get Out trek knew of these risks, and
understood they would be sent ‘down’,
if they got too sick
How did you deal with altitude
sickness of guests? Got To Get Out
had a protocol in place that we actually
rehearsed before leaving New Zealand,
whereby if guests did not improve
quickly from early signs of altitude
sickness, they would either return by
foot to a lower altitude to improve (and
then potentially rejoin the group after
improvement) or if they were unable
to descend under their own steam,
a helicopter evacuation would be
triggered.
It should be noted that heli
evacuation sounds scary, but in Nepal
is extremely common. Each day
several helicopters fly back and forth
through the Khumbu valley (the main
trekking highway) from Kathmandu
to EBC or nearby villages, picking up
sick or injured trekkers. This is not to
say the trek is unsafe, more so that it
is very common for people – even well
prepared and fit – to get ill and need a
helping hand to descend.
It should also be noted that the
policy of both Got To Get Out and
our Nepal trekking partner is to insist
on insurance that will pay in full for a
helicopter medical evac over 5,000m
above sea level. Readers should be
aware that credit-card or cheaper
insurance policies may not cover evac
from this elevation so should not be
relied on alone, at least in the Himalaya.
Make sure you read the fine print.
Tell us about the evacuation on
Jan 4th. On the day prior to our evac,
the group needed to walk Pheriche
(4200m) to Lobuche (approx. 4900m),
and on this day the weather was very
poor, with snow and cold down to an
estimated -20 Celsius.
On arrival to the ‘Pyramid’ tea
house located slightly above Lobuche
(an ex Italian environmental research
station). Guests were pretty tired and
cold but all seemed fine that night.
We watched a documentary about
Sherpas and their amazing contribution
to mountaineering by taking all the
‘risk’ when setting the complex ‘ladder
crossings’ in the Khumbu Ice Fall
ahead of Everest climbing expeditions.
I digress!
The next morning, 7am, I started
getting reports from worried guests that
several of our trekkers were feeling
unwell; some had been up all night
with nausea. I set about finding out
who was ill, with what conditions, and
immediately began making plans with
our trekking guides to determine what
needed to be done.
Throughout that morning, various
guests presented symptoms of nausea,
headaches, fatigue, and upon testing
for the blood oxygenation and heart
34//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#219

Images by Eonel Barut
"Throughout that morning, various guests
presented symptoms of nausea, headaches,
fatigue, and upon testing for the blood
oxygenation and heart rate of guests it was
found that some guests were feeling effects of
altitude sickness."
rate of guests it was found that some
guests were experiencing the effects of
altitude sickness.
The good news is that after some
of the ill were administered tea,
electrolytes, mild pain relief and food,
they made a recovery and joined the
other guests on an acclimatization
walk - which helped us 'clear the decks'
to deal with the really sick people. I
was very lucky to have some medical
experts on the trip, including a nurse
and midwife who helped with recording
patient vital signs, and administering
some basic meds.
Unfortunately, three of our
guests, made up of two Kiwis and an
Australian born citizen living in New
Zealand were still displaying worrying
symptoms including low blood oxygen,
high heart rates, fatigue, vomiting and
some diarrhea. In consultation with
the trekking company staff both in the
Himalaya and by phone in Nepal, it
was decided to trigger the medical
evacuation procedure to send these
sick guests to the lower altitude of
Kathmandu with more oxygen-dense
air, and to get treated by medical staff
at the very well equipped travel-specific
hospital in the Nepal capital.
As leader of the group, I then had
the tough task of phoning next of kin
to tell them of the news. My job was
made easier as all the families were
supportive of their loved ones being
taken to Kathmandu for specialist
treatment, even though it meant their
trip was over.
Who pays for the helicopter?
Before the helicopter was booked, the
sick guests were made aware that if the
Kathmandu doctors deemed them ‘fit
enough to have walked out’ they may
be charged for the evac, a cost all or
part of $5,000USD per ride.
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 35

+
Apparently, trekkers in Nepal have
exploited the evac system in the past,
getting to EBC then ‘requesting’ a
helicopter to save walking to lower levels.
This has made insurance companies
more skeptical and sometimes they won’t
pay. In all our cases, the doctors agreed
with our assessment that our guests
were ill enough, and the insurers paid
everyone out in full.
Tell us about the helicopter. Once
the decision was made, the next part
was quite remarkable and efficient. The
guests were evacuated within just 2
hours of the first phone call being made.
The helicopter arrived around 12noon
on 4th Jan, onto a snow covered square
‘heli pad’ outside the Pyramid tea house.
We were lucky to have clear sky and
no snowfall this day, so visibility was
perfect. One day either side, and it may
have been hard to get the helicopter
to our height. Upon landing the rotors
whipped up clouds of snow and ice, so
the onlooking crew and patients had to
cover their faces and look away. Our sick
guests were ushered onto the helicopter
within about 2 minutes of landing, which
our guides later told us was a slow
evacuation! It really happened fast from
my perspective.
After leaving the mountains by
helicopter, our sick guests landed in
Kathmandu and treatment began a
matter of hours. Treatment included rest,
monitoring, IV drip, and antibiotics for
some lung infections.
How did your guests feel about
being evacuated? The guests
themselves were naturally disappointed
not to make it to Mt Everest Base Camp
(the rest of the group visited the very next
day) but they all understood that ‘health
comes first’ and most have expressed a
desire to ‘give it another crack’ one day.
The NZ press got hold of all this,
while you were there? When I came into
Images of the trip by Eonel Barut
phone range for the first time in over a
week,after attempting Island Peak 6189m
after EBC, I found every single person in
our expedition, my staff and volunteers
in New Zealand, Nepalese guides and
even the Nepalese hospital had been
contacted by NZ journalists, eager to
find out about the “evac off Everest”!.
To this day I don’t know who tipped off
the NZ media, but we had a good laugh
about our apparent "escape from the
tallest mountain on earth" which was
of course, totally wrong. Jokes aside, it
was distressing for everyone involved to
have been so mercilessly hounded for
comment, but I am thrilled that everyone
in our expedition stayed tight-lipped
until I got into range and spoke to the
media and gave them a comment. This
was a valuable learning experience
for sure and illustrated to me the many
misconceptions about climbing Mt
Everest vs. trekking to Mt Everest Base
Camp; they are not the same thing at all.
So then, is it all worth it? Following
in the footsteps of our most famous
mountaineer Sir Edmund Hillary,
and taking the time to learn about
the amazing contribution he and the
Himalayan Trust have made to the region
while experiencing the strong connection
between NZ and Nepal, should be on
the ‘bucket list’ of all Kiwis in my opinion.
I have grown to feel this trek is a ‘rite of
passage’, a pilgrimage of sorts to get
immersed in Kiwi heritage, albeit on the
other side of the world.
I do of course acknowledge there is
some risk of getting sick at altitudes like
those on my trip, but as I’ve explained,
good operators have reliable systems for
the identification of altitude sickness and
can arrange your evac if needed, and
there are excellent helicopter services
and trekker-specific hospitals set up to
deal with this.
I don’t personally think readers should
do this trek alone, unless they are vastly
experienced. At the very least, ordering
food, flying to Lukla, and navigating the
military permit checkpoints could be
daunting without a guide, where most
locals speak only broken English at best.
So with all this risk, why do people
trek to EBC, in winter? After the trip
when I asked our group “why did you
choose Nepal in winter for your summer
vacation?” Many guests talked of EBC
being a goal of theirs for many years.
Others were honoring family, proving they
could do it, achieving something out of
their comfort zone, and basically having
an adventure rather than staying home or
going to the beach!
Put simply though, NZ summer
holidays (December/January) seem the
most convenient time of year for full time
workers to take leave.
It’s certainly important that Kiwis
attempting this trek in winter (or
indeed any time of year) have the right
information, coaching, support, fitness
and equipment. Despite the risks I
personally say, “don’t let the fear hold you
back!” Feedback from my guests is the
trek is ‘life changing’ and learning about
the work of Sir Edmund Hillary certainly
makes you feel proud to be a Kiwi, even if
there is some risk of altitude sickness and
a few discomforts, especially in the cold
of winter.
What next for GTGO? Once the
world is back up and running following
Covid-19 (not too long we hope!) Got
to Get Out intends to run more trips to
Nepal as there is clearly interest and
demand, plus I love going back! We are
considering a mid-year trip to the region
one year, which will be warmer than our
winter visits.
We also have a big pipeline of both
free or paid-for events to get Kiwis
outdoors around NZ. These will all be
hosted on our website and Facebook
page, when NZ is back on track.
36//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#219

The helicopter evacuation took approximately 2 minutes and took the guests to Kathmandu where they all made a full recovery
"You gotta know when to hold em,
know when to fold em,
know when to walk away,
know when to run."
Kenny Rogers
Images of the trip by Eonel Barut
Please see www.facebook.com/gottogetout for updates on their local or Nepal
treks or email robert@gottogetout.com to get put on the list for updates.
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 37

+
believe
it or not
BELIEVE IT OR NOT?
REAL-LIFE MCGUIVER...
In 2018 Angela Hernandez swerved
her car to avoid hitting an animal and
drove 60 meters down a cliff onto a
deserted rocky beach. She suffered a
brain hemorrhage, broken collar bone,
fractured ribs, collapsed lung and
ruptured blood vessels in both eyes
and when she came to the water was
lapping at her knees.
Using a multitool, she broke her
window, crawled out the car, swam to
the beach and passed out. When she
woke up she began walking the shore
looking for help. Using a hose from her
car to collect dripping water from moss
along the shore she kept herself alive
for days.
Although she could hear and see
cars pass by atop the cliff, they couldn’t
hear her screams for help. Eventually, 7
days into her ordeal, a couple of hikers,
Chelsea and Chad Moore, stumbled
across her car and found her sleeping
under some rocks.
Left:Angela and her rescuer, Chelsea
Moore
Above: Her car at the bottom of the cliff
Image by Chad Moore
SURVIVING IN THE WILDERNESS...
Tyson Steele survived three weeks in
the Alaskan wilderness after his cabin was
burnt down in a fire. He woke to his cabin
on fire and ran outside wearing only boots,
long johns and a jumper. He ran back to grab
blankets and his rifle not realising his dog
was still inside. The fire ignited hundreds of
rounds of ammunition and a propane tank in
the cabin. After shovelling snow on the blaze
for hours he was unable to save the shelter,
he made a basic tent out of debris in the subzero
temperatures and lived on canned food
that survived the blaze.
The authorities rescued Tyson Steele by helicopter
Image by Alaskan State Troopers
Alaskan native Ada Blackjack
survived alone for two years on the
remote Wrangel Islands. After being
hired as a seamstress and cook on
the expedition to claim the islands she
was left there in 1921, with 5 others
as a territorial claim. However their
rations soon ran low and three of the
team went in search of help. Ada was
left to take care of an ailing crewmate.
Unfortunately he did not survive,
however, Ada, alone on a polar bear
populated island, learned to hunt the
seals and survived off their meat until
she was rescued two years later.
38//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#219

HISTORY OF WHAKAARI WHITE ISLAND
It was assumed that they had taken to their
boats in order to escape the heightened volcanic
activity. However, after closer investigation it
appeared they had all been washed out to sea by
a mudflow caused by the eruption and no trace of
the men were ever found. Ten men perished.
The mine was re-established in 1927 and not
long after another series of violent earthquakes
hit the island. This time workers were able to
escape in their boats where they waited until the
island settled down. Sulphur mining on the island
finally came to an end in the early 1930’s.
Working on White Island in the 1920's - Image compliments Alexander
Turnbull Library
Whakaari White Island has always been a volatile environment,
with a history steeped in mystery and intrigue. The island was
named by Captain Cook in 1769 White Island by Captain Cook
due to the thick white steam that emitted from the island.
The first recorded landing on Whakaari White Island was
back in 1826 by missionary brothers, Henry and William Williams.
Around the same time, trading ships began landing, using the hot
volcanic streams to “cook” the pigs by dunking them in the water.
It wasn’t until 1848, however, when the world was in need of
sulphur for industrial and agricultural purposes, that the high levels
of crystallised sulphur on the crater floor suggested it’s resources
could be useful.
In February, 1914 a fully realised sulphur mining operation was
commissioned on the island. A few months after this an employee
of the mining company died after suffering serious injuries when
a retort exploded and then not long after another employee went
missing with no trace, apart from his boots. Then the island
erupted.
People had noticed an increased level of activity on the island
and on 10 September 1914, thick black smoke could be seen from
the mainland and thoughts immediately went to the men working in
the quarry.
After failing to get hold of them, one of the steamship pilots,
who carried workers and supplies to and from the island, stopped
in to check on the workers. When he arrived he noticed that a
large section of the cliff had collapsed burying the camp and the
wharf and no workers were to be found.
TRAPPED AT THE BOTTOM OF
THE OCEAN...
In 2013, when divers were
exploring the wreckage of a boat that
had capsized and sat 30 meters on
the bottom of the ocean, the last thing
they expected to find was a survivor.
However, they found the ship’s cook,
Harrison Okene, trapped with a four
square foot bubble of air with no way
out. After three days he had given up
hope when he heard the divers. He was
brought to a decompression chamber
where he spent two days recovering,
vowing never to go out to sea again.
SURVIVING THE ROUTEBURN IN WINTER...
Czech tramper, Pavlina Pizova,
survived for a month trapped in a hut in
the South Island after getting into trouble
on the Routeburn Track. Despite being
advised not to attempt the track in winter
due to tough weather conditions, they
decided to “give it a go”. That decision
proved fatal for Pavlina’s partner and left
Pavlina huddled in a wardens hut with
limited supplies hoping for rescue.
Knowing that there was thick snow
outside and avalanches were constantly
falling, she decided the best thing to do
was stay put. This decision proved to
be a life saver as she was discovered
after her friends alerted the police when
they noticed she had not been posting on
facebook for quite some time.
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 39

+
believe
it or not
ENCOUNTER
WITH A GREAT
WHITE
By Steve Dickinson
Anyone who knows our editor well, knows he has a knack of telling a
great tale. So when he called in a panic to say he'd just been chased by a
Great White, I must admit, I sort of didn't really believe him. But when I saw
him an hour later and he was still shaking, I began to think that this may
have been true. I'll let Steve tell the story and you can decide for yourself...
Yes, I know they are always there. Yes, I know there
has never been an East Coast fatal shark attack in the
North Island.
BUT – while fishing off Stanmore Bay Point (not long
before the lockdown), a popular area just as the tide
turned, I was ‘investigated’ by a 2.5+ meter great white.
I don’t have a fear of sharks, I have dived with them
extensively in Tahiti and Fiji and even photographed Great
Whites in Tasmania, but I do have a deep respect for them
and the role they play.
I have seen bigger sharks but from a boat not in a
kayak. In a kayak you are really exposed, and very close
to their level.
I heard him before I saw him. I saw him approach from
the right-hand side. At which point I slashed at him with
my rod accompanied by a range of expletives – made no
difference. It was like being approached by a couch; his
length was less intimidating than his girth.

Image supplied by Alex Steyn...
Not taken by S&%T scared paddler at the time.

+
I saw the water swirl off to my
right, the water was crystal clear. He
swam directly towards the kayak and
then turned away and went under
behind me. At that stage he had not
touched the kayak, but I could feel his
movement through the water in the
kayak. He then came to the surface on
my left and his huge dorsal fin broke
the water. He then turned and came
to the front of the kayak and started
pushing it which was odd. He simply
put his nose about a foot from the end
of the kayak and pushed. As I was
anchored at the back of the kayak,
he pushed the nose like the hands
of a clock for about 2 – 3 meters with
enough force for me to start taking
water over the side. More yelling
and rod swiping. It then submerged
and came up again on the right side
its body pressing again the kayak. I
had recently discussed this situation
with my wife, and what I would do if
approached by a big shark. I had no
idea how big. With the sharp knife I
always keep in hands reach I cut off
the burley bag and threw it as far as I
could– which was empty but I presume
was his main interest – the red onion
sack floated the surface for about 5
seconds. A which point his head came
out of the water and he ate it – his
head was at least 2ft across it was like
a scene from Jaws.
Now he is swimming around
the kayak with the burley bag in his
mouth nudging it with the side of his
body and he is pissed. I could not
see his pectoral fins clearly, but his
movements were now faster and
more erratic. I have now put the rods
down - cut all the lines and picked up
the paddle. My overwhelming concern
was that he would choose to chew the
kayak and tip me in which would not
have ended well. Due to the length of
the kayak if he had chosen to chew
behind or in the front, I would not be
able to reach him to deter him. But he
came at the boat about where my thigh
was. At which point I then smashed
on top of his head several times with
the paddle- I could feel the connection
through the paddle - still made no
difference. What was concerning was
his level of interest and he would not
be put off he was just unrelenting.
He was making sudden side to
side movement, the red onion bag
stuck in his teeth and flowing down
the side of his face. His back fin was
massive and repeatedly breaking the
water. He turned away, and as he
turned back towards the kayak, I had
a moment when I was not defending,
I then cut the anchor rope and started
to paddle to the shallow water which
was about 800mm away as quickly as
possible. Surprising and terrifyingly
he swam level with the kayak on the
left-hand side, ploughing through the
water making darting turns towards the
kayak I was constantly in fear he was
going to ram the kayak, this lasted for
the first 20 -30m then submerged. That
was an ‘oh f*&k’ moment, I had vision
of being like one of the seals who
gets hit from below on the discovery
channel. He seemed to be gone but
then heard him break the surface
behind me, due to its size every time
he broke the surface it made a noise
– not one I will forget, he stayed about
10m away and just kept following.
Finally as I got closer to the shallower
reef, I heard him submerge and I had
no idea where he was or what he was
going to do. I was head down paddling
like Fred Flintstone runs. But he was
gone, I sat in shallows called my wife,
“I have just been attacked by a
Great White”
Her response was, “are you still
out there?”
My response. “Are you F&%king’
kidding me!!!”
Since this ordeal, I put it on our
local Facebook page in a non-dramatic
way and said ‘if you are fishing be
aware there is a large Great White
in the area’ I have had range of
responses, others have said they
have seen it as well, some ‘thanks
for the warning’, some went on to
rant about how lucky I was to have
the experience to be up close and
personal with such a magnificent
creature. I understand the sentiment
but that is an experience I never want
again.
I now have a kayak for sale and
will be buying a boat and a lottery
ticket.
42//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#219

we ARE tramping
Tramping on Mt Howitt, Hooker Range, high above the Landsborough Valley
Photo: Mark Watson / Highluxphoto
Whether it’s a day trip with the family or a multi-day adventure deep into the wilderness, Bivouac has the best gear,
from the top brands, to keep you safe, comfortable, warm and dry. Our friendly staff are happy to provide expert
advice, ensuring you get the right equipment and the right fit. If you need it for tramping, we have it, because at
Bivouac Outdoor we ARE tramping.
OFFICIAL GEAR SUPPLIER
PROUD SUPPORTER OF...
STORES NATIONWIDE
www.bivouac.co.nz

posure
X
44//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#219

RED BULL ILLUME FINALIST
PHOTOGRAPHER: PETER CIRILLI
LOCATION: BIRLINGTON, VT
THE SHOT: Young skateboarder
Levi Glenney in Burlington, United
States. This images was captured
by Peter Cirilli entered in the 2019
Red Bull Illume.
Image courtesy Red Bull content
pool

TAKING
THE DROP
Words and images courtesy Red Bull
American kayaker Dane Jackson has revealed
the story behind his breathtaking 134-foot descent
down the Salto del Maule waterfall in Chile, after his
paddle over the edge became the second highest in
history.
The reigning ICF canoe freestyle world champion
grew up travelling the USA in an RV with his family,
getting homeschooled by his mother and chasing
kayaking competitions with his father, Eric Jackson,
an Olympic paddler and founder of the company
Jackson Kayaks.
The 26-year-old, who has now completed six
waterfalls that are at least 100-feet high, has spent
the last decade travelling the planet in search of
new places to freestyle kayak as well as dominating
the competition scene since he won the Whitewater
Grand Prix in 2011.
Here is what the Tennessee native had to say
after his latest adventure feat shocked the world:
46//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#219

Dane Jackson drops the Salto Del Maule
134-foot waterfall, the second greatest kayak
descent, on the Salte Maule river in Chile

Dane Jackson walks with his kayak after dropping the Salto Del Maule 134-foot waterfall, the second greatest kayak descent, on
the Salte Maule river in Chile on 5 February, 2020.
48//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#219

"Whenever there's a
moment where you get
shown a waterfall that
hasn't been done, or you
come across a photo, it
always sparks something
that makes you have to
answer the question; is it
possible?"
How much research went into identifying
this particular waterfall, and what makes it
so special? Whenever there's a moment where
you get shown a waterfall that hasn't been done,
or you come across a photo, it always sparks
something that makes you have to answer the
question; is it possible? I've been shown drops
before, but when I was shown Salto del Maule
four years ago, it's the most obsessed I've been
with a waterfall - constantly looking at photos and
videos trying to make up my mind on it. It looks so
perfect and the location is breathtaking, but there
were a lot of question marks on the depth which
is what mainly stopped me from committing to go
see it. When I got a message in January showing
a good clip of it, I knew it was time to see it for
myself and make the call.
How do you prepare yourself mentally for
something as scary as the waterfall drop?
The biggest thing is making sure to cover all
the bases from the line itself, to what could go
wrong and where to have safety, and then have
an internal discussion on whether or not I have
100% confidence in hitting the line. By covering
all of that, feeling 100% on the line, as well as
preparing for what could happen and accepting
that, it allows me to make sure I am doing it for
the right reasons. For Maule the line looked
amazing, there was solid safety, and it was a
dream drop of mine, so I knew there was nothing
else I'd rather be doing then.
Can you describe the feeling on the edge,
just as you are about to drop? It's hard to
describe as it happens so fast but, more than
anything, it's the moment where everything kind
of snaps into place for me. It's where it's time
to see if the lip acts like you imagined, or react
properly if not. It also is the most glorious feeling
coming over that blind horizon and then staring
down the beast because most waterfalls you get
water in your face and realistically only have clear
vision as you are coming over the lip. That's the
moment you remember most and Maule was the
greatest I've ever experienced.
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 49

"If I had measured it
beforehand and realised
it was the tallest drop I
had done, maybe I would
have been more nervous
or hesitant."
Did everything go to plan, or were there things that went
wrong? In the end, everything from the lip, to my line, to the hit at the
bottom went as perfectly as I could have ever imagined. Unfortunately,
after I hit, my skirt came off filling my boat with water. Although I did
stay in my boat as I popped up, I ended up coming out of my boat after
which does take away from it being a perfect descent as I wasn't able
to simply just paddle away from the drop. That being said, with a drop
of that power and height, how things turned out is still a win for me.
Though things could have gone a bit better, with waterfalls of that size,
things could go much worse so I am stoked on how it all turned out.
Is it the most adrenaline spiking kayaking experience that
you have ever undertaken? It definitely was one of my greatest
experiences. I wouldn't necessarily say it was another level of
adrenaline considering I still had to focus on what I had done before.
I also didn't know the height as I wanted to wait until after I ran it to
measure it. I wanted to wait until after because, by looking at it, I
felt it looked a similar height to what I have done before. Everything
made me really confident in doing the line right, which allowed me to
do exactly what I needed to do. If I had measured it beforehand and
realised it was the tallest drop I had done, maybe I would have been
more nervous or hesitant. I would have still had a great line, but I might
not have had the same confidence.
Do you ever want to try and beat Tyler Bradt's 189-foot
Palouse Falls world record? I wouldn't call it a pursuit, although I'm
sure there is one out there somewhere. It's going to be hard to find a
drop as perfect as Palouse. If I find it, and the opportunity presents
itself, maybe I'll take a look but I'm not on the hunt as I have got lots of
other things I want do.
What new kayak places are you looking to explore for the
remainder of this year? I just touched down for a two-month trip in
Indonesia where myself and a few friends plan to try and run a bunch
of new waterfalls and sections. Beyond Indonesia, I'm not very good
at planning ahead. My goal for this year is to try to break my usual
routine, check out new places and find first descents.
How proud are you that you have overcome hearing difficulties
to excel in your sport? I wouldn't say there was much to overcome
as there isn't much auditory stuff I can't pick up or need to pick up.
Beyond maybe not being able to hear what the plan for the next day is
at the campfire, there's not a whole lot of disadvantages. If anything, it's
an advantage as I am able to read lips, which means I can understand
what someone is saying from across the river when describing what's
coming up or what the plan is.
50//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#219

A close up look as Dane Jackson drops the Salto Del Maule 134-foot waterfall, the
second greatest kayak descent, on the Salte Maule river in Chile
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 51

HIGH ALPINE ALLURE
- THE HUMBLE BACK
COUNTRY HUT
By Annabel Anderson
Perched high above the valley floor, nestled into
the curve of the hill away from the chill of the southerly
wind, I gaze out across the horizon through the soft
light of a winter's afternoon. I’m surrounded by peaks,
lakes and valleys as far as the eye can see. From this
altitude you take in the true magnitude of the Southern
Alps. Twinkling lights in the distance draw the attention
of my eye; the lights of Cardrona to the south west,
Treble Cone to the north west and the urban sprawl of
Wanaka and the Upper Clutha start to sparkle in the
fading light.
It feels a world away from civilisation yet I only left
the bustle of Wanaka a couple of hours ago before
driving up to the Snow Farm, strapping on some
cross-country skis and making my way to the Bob Lee
Hut for an overnight mid-week mission.
New Zealand is littered with a plethora of back
country huts scattered the length and breadth of the
country, but the high country of the South Island is
where you’ll find them in abundance. Once the shelter
of musterers tending to their flocks on the high alpine
summer pastures, these huts provided a place to take
shelter, boil a billy, and rest a weary head after a big
day in the hills. Rustic and full of charm they were
made from anything surplus to requirement that could
be repurposed and packed into their location and often
remain the same to this day.
One such place that you’ll find a collection of huts
restored to their full glory is on Pisa Range. Restored
and brought to life by the Snow Farm, all their original
charm has been kept intact with some additions that
make these huts almost palatial in comparison to
some that I have rested my head in over the years.
Fitted with gas stoves, solar lights, wood burners (and
a wood pile), bunks complete with mattresses, long
drops and water, these high alpine outposts have
taken the niggle out of a night in the back country. As
if it didn’t get any better, your bags and supplies get
dropped at your chosen hut and are ready and waiting
for your return at the base lodge of the Snow Farm on
your departure. All of a sudden the finer bits and bobs
that make ‘camping’ that much more pleasurable are
added to your supplies. Cue a stove top coffee maker,
crackers and cheese, a tipple of wine to accompany
dinner and some obligatory dark chocolate make the
list rather than being cut due to the weight of being
carried in on foot.
With three huts to choose from (Meadow,
Daisy and Bob Lee) ranging from 3.4km to 6km
from the base building at the top of the Snow Farm
road, means they can have you door to door in as
little as 2.5 hours if you are making your way from
Queenstown or Wanaka. How you choose to get there
depends on your choice of season. Winter opens up
the opportunity to ski tour, snow shoe or cross-country
ski to your chosen location while summer is the
perfect chance to make your way by foot or mountain
bike and while making the most of the more than fifty
kilometres of Snow Farm cross-country ski trails on
offer.
Like most adventures in the high country, these
times are best shared with those who have an
appreciation for the simpler things in life; fresh air, big
vistas, good conversation, pot belly stoves and getting
to and from your destination under your own steam.
The best bit about this one is the hard stuff is already
done for you, all you need to do is pick your crew,
secure your dates and gather your supplies.
All huts are able to be booked exclusively or on a
per person/per night basis. A Snow Farm trail pass is
required for winter bookings.
Hut availability is can be found at:
https://snowfarmnz.com/backcountry-huts/
52//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#219

Clockwise from top Left: The Bob Lee and Daisy Huts have prime position looking out across the Upper Clutha Valley to Lakes Wanaka, Hawea
and the Southern Alps beyond.
The Snow Farm Huts come equipped with close to everything you may need, including firewood, water, a gas cooker, pots, pans and solar
powered lights.
Nestled beside the Roaring Meg River only 3.5km from the Snow Farm base, the Meadows Hut can sleep up to 20 people.
As you make your way to your hut for the evening, your gear and supplies travel in style.
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 53

YOU NEVER KNOW WHAT'S
AROUND THE CORNER
One of the best things about vanlife is
the flexibility; you can go where you want,
when you want and stay as long as you
want. This flexibility allows you to discover
new places and with everything you need
inside your van, which is the perfect way to
explore as you never know what is around
the next corner...
54//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#219

You never know what's around the next corner.
In this case it was the Grand Tetons

"Nothing quite prepares
you for the Grand Tetons...
For me, it is the USA's
most scenic mountain
range.”
We found this out first hand on
a recent trip to the States. We were
on our way to Yellowstone National
Park and decided to go via the Grand
Tetons access route. Having very little
idea what to expect we didn’t plan on
stopping, but that all changed as soon
as we got there.
The Grand Tetons literally jump out
from nowhere. One moment you are
driving along through a forest and the
next there is a staggering wall of snowcovered
mountains bearing down on
you. There seems to be no landscape
pre-warning that around the next bend
is the most majestic and awe-inspiring
range of mountain in America.
We arrived at the Grand Tetons
from the Eastern Entrance, and it was
one of those places that although I had
heard lots about, I really didn’t know
what it was all about. The days before
we arrived the weather had been
scorching hot followed by plummeting
temperatures and a bitter wind. We
woke to fine weather but also warnings
that snow had fallen on the Togwotee
Pass, the pass that provides the most
direct access to the Grand Tetons.
The road was open, but we were
advised to be aware of ice and sliding
conditions. Going from the golden
tundra of Lander to the red rocks of
Dubois, the snowy peaks of Togwotee
Pass were something special. As we
dropped out of the snow cloud layer,
we were greeted by the Grand Tetons
in the distance.
Nothing quite prepares you for the
sight of the Grand Tetons. As someone
once said, “it is the USA’s most scenic
mountain range” and they are not
wrong. What makes the Grand Tetons
so impressive is their lack of foothills,
they seem to rise straight from the
golden plains below them.
Up close with the Grand Tetons

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 57

Mt Teton, the highest peak at 13,775 feet, rises 7000 feet
above the valley floor with no immediate foothills in front of it,
which makes climbing the Grand Teton more arduous than many
other peaks of the same height. It is a rite of passage for any
mountaineer and standing at the base of the mountain range you
can only be impressed by anyone who attempts her peaks.
An average of 4,000 people attempt the summit of Grand
Teton each year, yet claims of people’s achievements on
the mountain have often been shrouded in controversy. It is
undecided as to who first climbed the mountain, Nathaniel
Langford and James Stevenson claim to have done so in July
1872. Their story is interesting as they claim they were able to
climb an otherwise slick face due to the fact that a cloud of coldnumbed
grasshoppers blew onto the peaks snowfields and their
bodies melted divots into the frozen surface that allowed Langford
and Stevenson to cling to the almost vertical sides.
We left the snow capped hills of the
Togwotee Pass into another world that was
the Grand Tetons
"I made a point to try to
imprint the place in my
memory; the smells, the feel,
the spirit of where I was at,
because there is so much
more to a place that what
any photo can capture.”
Then in 1971, when Bill Briggs claimed to have skied down
the east face, the locals were dubious. However a photographer
from the Jackson Hole news snapped an aerial photo of Brigg’s
tracks that were still visible on the Grand’s face.
58//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#219

OUTDOOR ADVENTURES IN THE GRAND TETONS
We spent a day driving the “Teton Circle”
just so we could stop at the many pull out
spots to take photos. It’s times like this that
you are thankful for digital cameras, I cannot
imagine the number of rolls of film we would
have got through attempting to capture the
awe of the place.
One of the things that I have learnt about
the National Parks of America, along with
any of the spectacular places that I have
witnessed around the world, is that a photo
can not do it justice. Often places captured
in our Instagram worlds are recreated to look
better than the “real deal”, however I have
yet to look at a photo of any scenic place I
have visited and thought that the picture has
captured what it was like to be there.
So despite our constant photo stops, I
made a point to try to imprint the place in
my memory; the smells, the feel, the spirit
of where I was at, because there is so much
more to a place that what any photo can
capture.
The Grand Tetons may be a little less well-known however there are plenty
of adventures to be had in this region.
• Climbing and Mountaineering: One of the things that makes this
such a popular place for climbing and mountaineering is that the tracks
are easily accessible by road. Also there are plenty of climbs that
can be completed in one day and tracks are well marked and clearly
visible. There are also two guide companies in the area that offer
instruction and training escorts if you do not want to climb alone.
• Hiking: The park has 320km of hiking trails ranging from easy to
strenuous so there is something for everyone. The easiest are
located in the valley so you do not have to deal with any major altitude
changes.
• Biking: Although this looks as though it should be a mountain bikers
paradise, biking in the Grand Tetons is limited to the roads and the
paved multi-use pathways throughout the park. Bikes can be hired
easily but it’s more of a way to sight see rather than than anything
else.
• Boating: Boats are allowed in the many rivers and lakes but only two
lakes allow low powered motorised boats to restrict the noise.
• Fishing: Trout is the main species fished for in the Grand Tetons. All
rivers and waterways can be fished, you just need a license.
• Skiing: During the winter the hiking trails can be used for cross
country skiing and snowshoeing. At the southern end of the Grand
Tetons you’ll find Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, known for its
challenging terrain and exceptional views.

SIMLY
SURVI-VAN
By Jessica Middleton
Do you drive to thrive, or simply
survive? There is a difference and
survival is often questioned when
involved in vanlife.
The answer to thriving is simple,
preparation. I cannot express how
important this is for the comfort of your
travels.
Van life has given us our most
treasured memories and experiences
however there have been testing times
for us on the road too. I'm hoping the
following content I share with you can
encourage healthier and happier travels
because van life is more than just
surviving.
PACKING ESSENTIALS
Before you hit the road, you need
to pack your essentials first, make a list
and check it twice because it will feel
like Christmas when you desperately
need that item. Have your travel buddy
check it too, it will cut out the blame
game if something gets left behind or
next your buddy does, just kidding.
Do you drive to thrive or simply survive?
"The answer to thriving is simple, preparation.
I cannot express how important this is for the
comfort of your travels."
The basics would have to include
and not subject to, first aid kit, tent,
portable lamp, jerry can, survival
blanket, spare tyre, adequate water,
and food. Once your van is equipped
with your essentials you can top it up
with all your desired items, well maybe
not all. Jordan is practical and I've
been known to be the dreamer, I once
packed an abundance of clothes the
size of what he called Uluru ( Ayers
Rock ). It was my biggest regret. Every
day the clothes would erupt from my
bag in flying colours and I would end up
going to the old faithful cotton overalls,
I got really fed up with rearranging my
clothes as the space was very limited.
Driving can cause some wear and
tear and we so happened to have a
popped tyre when driving through to
Karijini Gorge, thank goodness we had
our spare and were able to continue
with our adventures as we were a long
way from the nearest service stop.
CLIMATE
Take into consideration the climate
you will be enduring on a day to day
basis. Our first trip on the way to Darwin
was intense, I'm talking we used the last
of our drinking water to pour over us at
night it was that sweltering hot. If Jordan
as so far put a pinky toe on me there was
going to be some cursing. First thing in the
morning, destination anywhere, let's just
get driving so we can have air-conditioning.
You could crack an egg on the road and
call it your new frying pan that's the kind
of temperature we were hacking, we had
no idea it was normal for parts of Australia
to be on fire due to the chronic heat. With
heat, it's difficult to cool down when there
are no streams nearby and if you are not
moving your van becomes somewhat like
an oven. Don't let this deter you from van
life, we would recommend being wise and
plan your destination in accordance with
the seasons. Cover your windows up during
the day and find a place of shade to park,
or be in an area where you know you can
cool off.
Winter is a little different, you can
always dress warm and apply many layers,
thermals are your best friend, a hot cup of
cocoa never goes astray and you love your
travel buddy again.
BUDGET
Planning your trip to your budget, this
is crucial. Van life is about the connection
with nature and people which mostly comes
at no cost however there are still budget
requirements, mainly fuel for yourself and
your sweet ride. Some people just get in
and drive and in theory that sounds like a
dream, and is possible if you have income
whilst travelling or tackling short distances.
Having a rough plan or end destination
helps with how successful your road trip is.
I remember so many people thinking I was
60//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#219

Vanlife is mostly about connection with nature and people (and fur friends)
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 61

Taking time to just enjoy the surrounding. A fishing rod is a great thing to pack and can help keep costs down (if you're lucky!)
"Our advice would be to budget for more than what you expect, make room
for mistakes and take the good with the bad."
taking it too far when I was researching
the distance a full tank of petrol would
get us, the cost to fill, the average fuel
prices across the country and calculated
the kilometers of our projected route.
I then knew from Perth to Gold Coast
our trip was going to cost approximately
$3500 in fuel a price most were shocked
about. There is nothing worse than
planning an amazing van trip to not
be able to get involved in some of the
local attractions because you haven't
budgeted correctly. Plan for that night
you want to swap out the Easy Mac for
a restaurant meal, check into a campsite
(there are not always freedom camps),
a dive trip or simply you want to do that
zipline or helicopter ride.
PUT YOUR FEET UP
Literally, take your feet off the
pedal and park up and take in your
surroundings. There was one stage we
were driving very long distances for
three days straight because there was
nothing that interested us in between
our stops. This can cause fatigue where
one little mistake can cost you. We
so happened to have a twist and pull
hand brake, one of us either forgot to
put it on, didn't put it on properly and it
popped down, causing our van to roll
into a tree while we went to pay for a
powered site. We were told the radiator
had been damaged and it would take
weeks for a part to reach us in the
middle of Australia. Luckily for us, it was
the window washing fluid and no real
damage to the motor only the panels.
From here we were able to drive with
a permit to Cairns and hire a station
wagon while the van was under repair.
The station wagon came with a tent
as sleeping arrangements, did either
of us check it? We drove up the coast
to find the tent poles and pegs were
missing. The car was way too hot and
uncomfortable so we headed down to
the beach and slept on the sand for the
night, that was our survival.
As we had no income on this trip
and after having to pay $2500 for the
van to be repaired you can imagine we
are nearly completely out of pocket. We
would be driving and one of us would
be gurgling like Homer Simpson over
a doughnut. This meant one of us had
spotted McDonald's, it just so happened
to be the time of the year when the
Monopoly game was on where you can
gain instant wins involving free food. We
would collect the tokens and it almost
turned into a game, luckily we were
active every day because we probably
pulled into every McDonalds down the
east coast of Australia. Just another
little survival hack we had going on.
Our advice would be to budget for more
than what you expect, make room for
mistakes and take the good with the bad.
I guess like anything in life you will
always bump into some obstacles along
your route, moving on and tackling
the next destination might just be the
drive you need. After our experience
who would have thought the two of us
couldn't wait to buy our own and do it all
over again.
Folllow Jess and Jordan: @our_van_life_ | @jessmiddletonxo | @jordan_whitcombe
62//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#219

Literally, take your feet off the pedal and park up and take in your surroundings.
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 63

Issue #196//new zealand’s premIer adventure magazIne sInce 1981
new zealand
Issue 196
JUN/JUL 16
NZ $9.20 incl. GST
AUST $6.90 incl. GST
USA $9.99
CANADA $9.99
hiking winter
wanaka
ice climbing
first rule
mt aspiring
don’t look down
iceland
colder than you think
gear guide
more than just a puffer
Issue #196//new zealand’s premIer adventure magazIne sInce 1981
new zealand
Issue 196
JUN/JUL 16
NZ $9.20 incl. GST
AUST $6.90 incl. GST
USA $9.99
CANADA $9.99
hiking winter
wanaka
ice climbing
first rule
mt aspiring
don’t look down
iceland
colder than you think
gear guide
more than just a puffer
education
in the outdoors*
SUBSCRIBE
AND GO INTO THE DRAW TO WIN ONE OF FIVE SOLAR
POWERED CAPS BY 2C-LIGHT
AND ONE OF FIVE SUNSAVER POWER BANKS
2c - one
Proven survival light you are wearing
– lightweight and always at the ready
because it charges while you’re wearing
it. Includes new Boost mode, S.O.S.
and dimmer. Invented in NZ and selling
worldwide for 10+ years
SunSaver 10K, 10,000mAh
Solar Power Bank
Built tough for the outdoors and
with a built-on solar panel, you
can keep your devices charged
no matter where your adventure
takes you.
RRP: $89.00
WWW.SUNSAVER.CO.NZ
RRP $39.90
WWW.SOLARLIGHTCAP.COM
YES I’D LIKE TO SUBSCRIBE
COUPON ONLY OFFER
free digital subscription
New Zealand Subscriptions:
with every hard copy
One year subscription NZD$48.00 That’s six issues (you save $7.20!)
subscription
Two year subscription NZD$90.00 That’s twelve issues (you save $20.40!)
Asia/Pacific/Rest of the Universe Get it online at magzter.com or subscribe online at:adventuremagazine.co.nz
Winter
*
*
*
*
*
education
in the outdoors*
Winter
*
*
*
*
*
Name: ............................................................................................
Street: ............................................................................................
..........................................................................................................
Suburb: .........................................................................................
Post Code:.........................Phone:...............................................
Email:...............................................................................................
Clothing Size:................................ Shoe Size:...................................
Card Number: ...................................................................
Name: ...................................................................
Expiry Date: ...................................................................
Signature: ...................................................................
Or send cheque/money order to:
ADVENTURE SUBSCRIPTIONS: Pacific Media Ltd
PO BOX 562, WHANGAPARAOA, 0932
Or Pay online: 389015 0000282 00
Or Email: subs@pacificmedia.co.nz
For all subs enquiries call: Steve @ 0275775014

URBAN
THIS ISSUE:
inspiration: running for oscar
mind: surviving our screens
Style: urban wear
business: brian magaw
tech guide: for your safety
Diversion: tales of survival
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 65

.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
URBAN
INSPIRATION
RUNNING FOR OSCAR
"My name is Oscar Jimmy Edwards Bisman.
I am four years old.
And three quarters!
I have Leukaemia.
Leukaemia is a cancer of the white blood
cells.
The type of Leukaemia I have is called
Acute Myeloid Leukaemia. (AML).
It is a cancer that originates in my bone
marrow & develops quickly.
No-one knows why this has happened, it
just has. There’s nothing anyone could
have done to change that. Now we just
have to deal with it.
There’s heaps of questions and we’re really
lucky that the people at Starship Childrens’
Hospital have lots of the answers.
I’m trying to be brave.
It’s scary and unknown and there’s lots of
different stuff happening.
But I’m trying to be cool in this strange
new place.
My room at the hospital is now going to
be my new home for about six months the
doctor said. Stink.
Ice blocks for breakfast are kinda ok
though.
Dad says it’ll be ok because he’s here to
help the Doctors fight the baddies and
make them go away from my blood.
He’s told me we won’t stop until all the
baddies are gone.
The goodies are going to win!
Mum is giving me so many kisses &
cuddles which I pretend is yucky but I
really like it and need heaps of them at
the moment. Don’t tell her though because
I’m tough. I’m a big boy.
My life has changed so much this week.
But this is my life now.
I’m going to keep being cheeky, silly,
awkward, funny & saying inappropriate
things to grown ups while we all laugh
& cry in my room & today we will start
fighting the baddies until they all go away
forever.
Thank you for reading my story.
It’s for true life.
Oscar."
@ Auckland Starship Hospital
Lucy in training before the event, would like to thank the wonderful
sponsors who helped make this happen.
By Lucy Olphert
Gavin and Sarah Bisman’s lives were turned upside down in
late January when their 4yo son Oscar was diagnosed with a severe
form of Leukaemia. Unaware of their plight, I was catching up with
friends around this time and pondering my next bucket list challenge,
when the crazy idea to enter the 2020 Tarawera Ultramarathon (New
Zealand’s biggest trail running festival) came up. An ultra distance
race is typically a race of any distance beyond the standard marathon
length of 42km. The most common ultra races begin at 50K and can
span up to 100 miles (160km) long, lasting throughout the entire day
(sometimes even the night). Usually, they take place on roads, trails,
or tracks and often in beautiful, far-flung locations.
In all honesty, running is not really my jam. So why would I want
to endure such an event? Ultimately, to see if I could! I have long been
inspired by those who push themselves beyond perceived capabilities
and my challenge bucket at the time was looking a little empty... The
Tarawera 50km was a brand new event for 2019 and returned this
year with a new course that explored Rotorua’s stunning geothermal
landscapes, lakes and forests. In theory it sounded like an above
average way to spend a Saturday. The only problem was, most people
train for months before events like this. The race was in six days’ time.
Unless you've done one, it's impossible to know how your mind
(and body) will react to running such a distance. I decided to seek
out an external motivation to lock me in and throw fuel on the will to
survive!
As fate would have it, the following morning I heard about young
Oscar and knew on the spot I had found the motivation I was looking
for. Through the powers of social media, I got in touch with Dad Gavin
and that afternoon set off on my first training run - an 8km jog down
Mount Maunganui beach! Incredibly, by that evening, Team Oscar had
a band of supportive sponsors thanks to the generosity of several local
businesses.
As D-day grew closer, the reality of what I was about to do kicked
in along with a high dose of imposter syndrome. I knew sweet nothing
about this sport, let alone the baffling language that came with it.
This jargon requires its own dictionary with detailed translations.
66//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#219

One of the aid stations. Think a smorgasbord of jet planes, potato chips, peanut butter and jam
sandwiches, energy drinks, flat soda, bananas, oranges, gels, and pizza!
Camelbacks, buffs, bonking and Garmins were certainly
unfamiliar to my sheltered running vocabulary! Once
again, the kickass community of Mount Maunganui and
Papamoa stepped up. Strangers far and wide reached
out offering advice on everything from nutrition and race
day strategies, to clothing suggestions and anti-chafing
measures.
A Givealittle page dubbed Oscar’s
Fight Against The Baddies was set up
to support Oscar and his immediate
family. By day three, it was already
at $16,000! My heart rate increased
tenfold. There was absolutely no
turning back now.
All competitors were required to
check in and collect their race number
by 8pm race day eve so I headed
across that afternoon. Along with the
mandatory race gear (a buff and a
seam proof jacket) were my five drop
bags (one for each of the aid stations on
course), filled to the brim like Chrisco
hampers. Inside were carefully selected
goodies from Nothing Naughty protein
and energy bars, to baked kumara,
No-Doz caffeine tablets, extra socks, vaseline, and even a
spare pair of shoes! Silently high fiving myself on this level
of pre-prepared awesomeness, I proudly handed them over
to the Athlete Check-In officials, only to be swiftly informed
that 50km athletes were allowed one drop bag only. The
imposter syndrome returned with a vengeance. Dam rookie!
Sighing, I finished my check in and scurried back to my
car, the four remaining Chrisco hampers in tow, hoping
At the start of the Ultra Marathon - Lucy
Olphert ready to go with Oscar as her
motivation!
my dinner date for one at Burger Fuel that evening would
cheer me up...
Race day dawned with an unexpected drizzle but
cleared by the time I arrived at the start line in Te
Puia. A powerful haka followed by a few choice words of
encouragement by race director Tim Day
set the tone for the gruelling day ahead.
Every nerve, muscle and fibre in my body
felt alive. I was going into battle but this
time for a cause far greater than my own.
The resounding blast of the horn
sounded and we were off through the
winding trails of Te Puia’s spectacular
geothermal valley. There was a stickiness
in the air and beads of sweat started
to roll down my face as the course
shifted into single lane tracks and I
maneuvered my way around tree roots
and natural drop banks. Following the
advice from ultrarunning junkies, I took
regular sips from the R-Line electrolyte
mix in my camelback. Fortunately, the
humidity vanished as we entered the
Whakarewarewa State Forest, home to
many of New Zealand’s native tree species
and the magnificent Californian Redwoods.
The endorphins had well and truly kicked in and I was
buzzing, but held a conservative pace knowing the shallow
depths of hell may try to grapple with me later in the
course. My phone pinged. It was Oscar. He had just woken
up.
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 67

.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
URBAN
INSPIRATION
of gin and tonic, my camelback contained some lime
flavoured electrolyte mix. In all seriousness though,
breaking a long distance race into increments through
targets such as the aid stations saved my sanity and,
should you ever attempt one someday, will likely save
yours!
Running alongside the world famous Blue and
Green Lakes was another highlight for me. The track
dips up and down as it winds its way through native
bush, at times high above the waterline and in others,
right on the edge of it. It is a magical place, good for the
soul.
It is also around the 36 kilometre mark where the
second to last aid station on course is situated and
athletes may finally retrieve their drop bag. Boy was I
looking forward to those goodies! My feet had formed
some funky looking blisters (note to self - never break in
a brand new pair of running shoes on race day)! It was a
huge relief to swap back into my old faithful Nikes.
The atmosphere at this station was electric,
made even more awesome by the arrival of piping hot
Domino’s Pizza. I could have stayed all day, but as if on
cue Justin Timberlake’s ‘Can’t Stop This Feeling’ came
over the speakers.
“I got that sunshine in my pocket
Got that good soul in my feet
I feel that hot blood in my body when it drops (ooh)
I can't take my eyes up off it, movin' so
phenomenally
Room on lock, the way we rock it, so don't stop.”
Look closely at this photo, Lucy is running to the finish line, after 8 hours
and 47 minutes, and is Facetiming Oscar as she runs through the chute,
a truly emotional experience for everyone.
“Have fun and don’t trip over”, he said with a cheeky smile
from his hospital bed. I heeded his solid advice. You encounter far
more unpredictable obstacles running on trails or through forests
than on the treadmill or tarmac. This is part of the fun, providing
you don’t find yourself face-planting into forest floor vegetation.
It was time to move on. I was on the home straight
with less than 15 kilometres to go and no sign of the
dreaded “bonking” or “runners wall” as it is also known.
This is the point in a race where essentially your stored
energy is depleted, your legs pump battery acid, your
breathing becomes laboured, your pace slows to a crawl
and the thought of taking another step seems like the
worst idea in the world.
I surged on and shortly after rounded a corner to the sweet
sound of bells ringing, signalling the first aid station on the course!
For those unfamiliar to ultra running, these are just what they
sound like. Aid stations are a runner’s lifeline. They are beacons
of hope that turn these long distance races into 8-10 kilometre
increments. Think a smorgasbord of jet planes, potato chips,
peanut butter and jam sandwiches, energy drinks, flat soda,
bananas, oranges, gels, and pizza!
Although a novel sight for an Ultra virgin like myself, running
for long periods of time burns a lot of calories and you need to keep
cramming them in - little amounts and often! The volunteers at
these stations are pretty much the coolest people around and even
provide tape, plasters, bean bags and sunscreen for those a little
worse for wear (I needed all of the above)!
Decked out in themes from island styles to the Mexican Día
de Los Muertos (Day of the Dead), and music blaring through the
treetops, the vibe is out the gate. You can’t help but feel you are
on one big pub crawl from station to station. Though sadly instead
Think that’s tough? Try six months of chemotherapy.
Oscar’s plight and his family’s incredible braveness
brought perspective to me like nothing else. Sure there
may be physiological evidence of such a phenomenon,
but in my opinion, Ultrarunning is much more about
the size of your determination.
The last section of the race followed a series of single
tracks and forest roads, joining back up to the main
trail and winding down to the Redwood forest. This gave
way to parkland before shifting onto the apocalyptic
sulphur flats and finally the lakefront reserve where
the finish line lay in wait. Before the race I had talked
with Gavin about Facetiming with Oscar up the chute.
Words cannot describe this incredibly special moment,
the inspiration that led to it and the raw emotions that
followed as a result.
Holocaust survivor and psychologist Viktor Frankl
wrote, "Between stimulus and response there is a
68//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#219

Lucy with Oscar and his family at Starship Hospital
space. In that space is our power to choose our response. In our
response lies our growth and our freedom."
This incredible experience is etched in my mind forever.
It taught me the limits of my body and reinforced the power
of the mind. The equation is relatively simple: find something
that challenges you and go there! It makes life a meaningful
and wild experience. For you it may not be an ultramarathon
- and that’s ok. Whatever option you choose, a life highlight
awaits!
To donate to Oscar’s Givealittle page visit
https://givealittle.co.nz/cause/oscars-fight-against-the-baddies
A special thanks to all the businesses who supported Team
Oscar:
Hopping Auto Electrical Ltd
Kiwi Double Glazing
Recharge Physio
Nothing Naughty
Diffuse Screenprinting
Stirling Sports Bayfair
The Success Group
Theragun by Peak Performance Massage
Kangen water courtesy of LightUp Marketing Agency
Juice Plus courtesy of Bridget Serafimidis
Lucy crossing the finish line after 8 hours, 47 minutes
and 8 seconds!
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 69

.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
URBAN
MIND
SURVIVING OUR SCREENS
Addictive levels of connection
to our phones used to be something
reserved for millenials, however as
time has progressed it seems that
even the boomers are falling into the
same traps. We rely on our phones
for so many things; they have become
our morning alarm, our way to access
news, bus schedules, road maps, and
even our friends, their capabilities
have become frightening.
But is this a problem?
Unfortunately studies have shown
that excessive reliability on our
phones is causing sleep issues, anxiety,
inability to focus along with the
inability to form lasting relationships.
So how does this happen?
Engagement with social media and
our cell phones releases a chemical
called dopamine. This is the chemical
that makes you feel good and is
the same chemical that is released
when we smoke, drink, and when we
gamble! It’s highly addictive.
Sensibly so, age restrictions apply
to those other things, however there is
no age restriction on cell phones and
social media. The issue lies around
the fact that the highly addictive
dopamine received from engaging in
social media and cell phones means we
form superficial relationships and lose
the ability to interact with the world
around us.
It is well documented that people
who spend more time on social media
have higher rates of depression
than those who don't. A lot of this
as a result of social media replacing
actual activity and real life human
interaction.
It’s all about balance, alcohol
in itself is not bad, but too much is.
Gambling can be fun, but too much
can be destructive. The same can
be said about social media and cell
phones, it’s all about the balance of
time.
70//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#219

"Unfortunately studies
have shown that excessive
reliability on our phones
is causing sleep issues,
anxiety, inability to
focus along with the
inability to form lasting
relationships."
a
a
a
How can you tell if you have an
addiction?
• When out with friends do you
feel the need to text someone
who is not there?
• At a meeting or when out
with friends, do you leave
your phone on the table?
• Do you check your phone
in the morning before you
say good morning to your
husband, wife, kids?
If the answer to any of these is
yes, then you have an addiction…
Truth be known, most of us would
reply yes.
So what can we do about it?
This experiment was done with
a group of university students and
I would recommend trying it to see
what your reaction is. No doubt you
will find you are more addicted than
you would think.
Students were asked to spend just
one day without the connectivity of
technology and to keep a journal of
their experience. As you can imagine,
this experiment was met with a
fair amount of resistance: What if
someone needs to get hold of me
urgently? What if someone thinks I
am ignoring them? The students were
given some time to inform friends
and family of the experiment so
they would not worry and were also
given a few days to prepare. Many
students used those days to print off
timetables, bus schedules and inform
their social media channels of their
impending absence.
The findings were quite
interesting. Firstly, most of the
students noted that the day seemed so
much longer. Imagine what we could
all do with that extra time? However,
the problem for a younger generation,
is that they really don’t know what to
do with “spare time”. They are easily
bored and due to a lifetime of screen
availability, they have not developed
the necessary skills to fill their time
with meaningful activities.
They also noted feeling incredibly
frustrated by things like the bus ride
home where they would usually be on
their phones and without them they
were simply bored and uncomfortable.
Without their phones to become
engrossed with they were also left
feeling vulnerable and exposed.
As the day wore on and they
stopped fixating on what they weren’t
able to do without their phones, they
began to notice the things they were
able to do. Many noticed they were
able to hold much more meaningful
conversations with people which made
them feel more connected and closer
to their friends. They also began to
note how “unsociable” phones made
people by noting other’s fixations with
them.
During the “unplugged” day, the
most repeated emotion people felt
was sadly one of anxiety; the fear
of missing something important.
They also noted how their phones
provided them with a feeling of safety,
something to hide behind but also
something that connected them with
the rest of the world. Another feeling
experienced was one of “guilt” at not
being able to respond to messages and
chats suggesting that being fast in
responses was essential in order for a
successful social life.
Although all saw the negatives
of being without technology, many
also noted the need to be aware of the
reliance on their screens to enable
them to establish more meaningful
connections.
So I challenge you to do the same
and see if you can save yourself from
your screens, even if it is just for one
day.
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 71

.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
URBAN
STYLE
Macpac NZAT Arrowsmith HyperDRY
Hooded Down Jacket — Men's $549.99
A longer length alpine down jacket, the
NZAT Arrowsmith combines the insulating
power of 800 loft HyperDRY RDS waterresistant
goose down with a weatherresistant
Pertex® Quantum outer shell.
Designed as the ultimate alpine belay jacket,
the NZAT Arrowsmith has boxed baffles
across your body for improved core warmth,
while the arms and hood feature sewnthrough
baffles to reduce bulk.
macpac.co.nz
Rab Cirrus Flex Jacket $279.95
Worn as either a lightweight outer or warm midlayer, the Women's Cirrus
Flex Hoody is incredibly versatile, offering durability, breathability, and
freedom of movement for any winter adventure.
Filled with synthetic Cirrus Featherless insulation, the Women's Cirrus
Flex Hoody works to balance and regulate temperature. Designed to ensure
you don't overheat when you're moving or get cold when you stop, the
Thermic stretch fleece panels offer excellent flexibility and exceptional
breathability. The Women's Cirrus Flex Hoody is made with durable
Hyperlite rip-stop outer and lining fabric, which sheds water and is quick
drying. The left pocket doubles as integrated stuff sack so it packs away
neatly when you're on the move.
Featuring a low profile, under-helmet hood, fleece lined chin guard, and
front zip with internal storm flap to for that extra comfort and protection.
The hard working Cirrus Flex Hoody is designed for long mountain days
and year round active use as part of a layering system. Weight: 404g
outfitters.net.nz
Marmot Precip ECO $199.00
Meet the environmentally conscious and
high-performing next genera-tion of our bestselling
PreCip Rain Jacket: the lightweight
PreCip Eco. The waterproof/breathable,
PFC-free Marmot NanoPro recycled nylon
face fabric lasts longer than ever, thanks to
the advanced technology of our microporous
coating. Sturdier, more durable than ever,
and with a patented dry-touch finish, this
packable water-repelling jacket that stuffs
into its own pocket will become an everyday
piece that you can feel good in and about.
Available in Mens & Womens. Weight 286.3g
(M) / 246.6g (W)
marmotnz.co.nz
72//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#219

Rab Kaon Jacket $399.95
The Kaon Jacket is the lightest, most packable
insulating layer we have ever created. Built to help you
pare back your kit but ramp up its versatility, its an
insulating jacket, a mid-layer and an outer layer – all
in one.
Conceived as the next step in insulated layers, the
Kaon Jacket employs a combination of high-loft
hydrophobic down, quick-drying synthetic fill and
insulation-free underarm sections for the ideal balance
of warmth, protection and movement. Its intelligent
zoning of materials uses 800 fill power European goose
down in the body, quick-drying Stratus insulation
in the cuffs, shoulders and hips and Pertex Quantum
Air panels under the arms, ensuring that warmth and
flexibility are matched by outstanding breathability
when your climb gets intense. Built using Atmos
lightweight ripstop nylon, the Kaon Jacket uses a
half-hem drawcord and elasticated cuffs for a close fit,
alongside a YKK front zip and features a chest pocket
for storing essentials.
With stitch-through construction and a handy stuff sack
for easy packability, you can enjoy the core warmth,
active dryness and multi-application versatility of
the slim-fit Kaon Jacket, wherever your path leads.
Available in mens and womens. Weight: 250g
outfitters.net.nz
Macpac NZAT Summit Aztec® 24L
Pack $199.99
Made for rock or alpine climbing,
the NZAT Summit is a technical
day pack featuring our legendary
Eco AzTec® 8 oz. canvas fabric for
durability and weather resistance.
macpac.co.nz
Marmot Featherless Hybrid Jacket $349.95
(some previous season colours reduced to clear)
Stoke IPA
Stoke IPA is crisp and fruity with honey and citrus
undertones. More English than American in style.
Stoke IPA is tank-conditioned over four weeks to
enhance the smooth, caramel sweetness. It is light
but a step up in hop intensity from their Pilsner.
stokebeer.co.nz
The light-weight Men's Featherless Hybrid
Jacket will keep you warm and dry in chilly,
damp weather without weighing down you
or your pack. 3M Thinsulate Recycled
Featherless Insulation is made with 75%
recycled loose-fill fibres that feel just as warm
as 700 fill power down, but still perform in wet
conditions. DriClime® Bi-Component lining
wicks away moisture to keep you dry. Weight:
255.1g
marmotnz.co.nz
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 73

.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
URBAN
BUSINESS
WILL EVERYTHING RETURN TO
NORMAL, POST COVID-19?
As I write this, New Zealand is
entering its 4th day of a nationwide
lockdown. This lockdown is part
of the effort to control the spread
of Covid-19, the Corona Virus.
If unchecked, the virus can kill
thousands of people in New Zealand,
and millions worldwide.
While I would think most people
are presently secretly enjoying
the unexpected pleasure of being
at home, at least for a few days,
I imagine the realities of this
unscheduled “holiday” will wear thin
reasonably fast. One can only do so
many jigsaw puzzles, watch so much
Netflix, or indulge in so many house
DIY projects before a desire to simply
“get out of the house” will be almost
overwhelming.
Just how different a place will the
world be once we are allowed out of
the house?
I think this is a huge question, and
one not easily answered. The “talking
heads”, whether they be on TV, radio
or some online site have such widely
differing views.
On the one extreme, we have
those who believe the economic
bounce back will be very strong, that
world economies will ramp up activity
very quickly, and within a few months,
we will be at least back to where we
were. They point to how fast China
is reopening for business. They
look to the build-up of unrealised
demand that has often preceded
economic recovery in previous times
of economic crisis.
On the other extreme are those
who think that what we are presently
experiencing will change everything.
They believe that what will come out
of this major disruption are societies
that care more for each other and
the earth. On an environmental level,
they point to the current drops in
pollution levels and CO2 emissions
since the crisis started. On a societal
level, they look to how people are
reaching out to each other, offering
help, support and empathy, even
though they must stay physically
separate.
In the middle are those who
think we are in for a deep economic
recession.
I think human beings have
short memories. Most of the
world’s population, especially in
the developed economies have not
experienced significant disruption
in their lifetimes. While we point
to the GFC in 2008 as an “almost”
depression, and no doubt there
have been ongoing economic issues
ever since, the reality is nothing
much really changed. We, that is us,
consumers, have kept buying throw
away junk, we have kept piling up
debt as we built McMansions, went
on multiple house buying sprees, or
annual overseas holidays. We have
tolerated the increasing gap between
those with, even in our society of
plenty here in New Zealand, and
those without. We have even gone
further than that, blanket labelling
people on benefits as being lazy, as
being no-hopers.
There are very few people left
alive, who were any older than
children during the Great Depression
or the war years following. Our
collective real memory of having lived
in, and experienced those times of
great hardship, loss, disruption and
uncertainty are virtually nil. We have
deluded ourselves into thinking that
the good times (at least for some)
cannot end and will go on forever.
What do I think?
I think it is self-evident that we
cannot sustain a civilisation of 7.5
billion now, with a projected 10 billion
by 2050, with an economic model that
is based on endless growth. We live
in a finite world of resources. We are
already taxing our oceans, our rivers,
our wildlife, our land more than they
can sustain. We see the results of
this in dramatic drops in fish stocks,
in waterways degraded from urban
and agricultural runoff, by the loss of
biodiversity, and by the ballooning
mass of extinctions. And this is not
even mentioning the impact that
climate change will have.
I am convinced that our present
economic model is busted, and that
conviction challenges the belief
system that our society is based
upon. In a nutshell, the belief system
that underpins so much, the belief
(not openly spoken), that greed
is good. That for me to get ahead
means that you have to be left
behind. The view that more for me
means less for you (and it is your
fault anyway, because you are lazy,
worthless, or fill in the disparaging
blank).
I think we will come out of this
latest round of disruptions and will
have learned little. We will still be on
this train to nowhere. However, I also
think that the disruptions caused by
Covid-19 are just the beginning. I
think there will be more disruptions
as our present system unravels.
Can we find the will to replace it with
something better?
I hope so.
Brian Megaw
River Valley
www.rivervalley.co.nz
74//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#219

.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
URBAN
OPINION
In your opinion
NZSki bought in a summer road toll
for the Remarkables Road. This
road, which is heavily used in
summer to access walking trails,
for camping, paragliding, mountain
biking, rock climbing and more,
will now cost you $10 to use.
What’s your opinion on this?
76//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#219

Mike Dawson
Professional Kayaker
I personally don’t have a problem
as long as it's not prohibitive. At the
end of the day it is a private road,
and I think a $10 fee is reasonable
combined with the fact that it helps
maintain the road and keeps the area
accessible, is great. I’d far rather
spend $10 to drive up than have to
walk or bike.
Hamish Bartlett
Director Summit
Collective
Yep fair enough, for them to charge
over the summer, that is the licence
they signed with the government
many years ago and they have just
spent millions on the road to improve
people's safety none of which was paid
by the government.
It's only $10 for a safer, faster road
ALL paid for by a private company
who have invested the money and
will continue to invest the money on
repairs and maintenance. Great to see
a company investing so heavily in the
community and asking little in return.
This is nothing to what it cost to enter
any National Park in Australia.
Pete Oswald
Pro skier
NZ Ski are in a privileged position
to be able to make profits from public
land, in return I think it is reasonable
they maintain free access to that public
land.
Nic Hides - Bobo Products
I don’t see a major issue here. It was not that long ago that all Ski Areas,
Commercial and Club charged a road toll additional to your day ski pass.
NZ Ski have spent huge money to upgrade their access road and to keep it
maintained summer and winter.
There are also commercial enterprises using this road to access the
conservation area for free during summer and winter and they are charging
their clients for the services they offer outside of using the Ski Area facilities.
I pay the NZ Government a toll every time I travel from Whakatane
through Tauranga to points north and If I choose to travel to the Far North,
admittedly there is an alternative on those routes.
The Remarkables Road is an experience in it’s own right and a small toll is
acceptable to me, it is by the car not per person so fill your car up with friends.
David Gatward-Ferguson
Managing Director/joint owner Nomad Safaris
I have some clear views on this which I stated on a tv inquiry in to the fuss
being made.
• Lets not forget that the bottom part of the road is private and solely
funded by the Remarkable ski field company.
• We are allowed to drive on this road for a very small fee
• Without that road, the only access is by walking
• It is a privilege, not a right to go on the road
• Honest operators have been paying every year for their use of the road
• Dishonest operators have not been paying for their use of the road
• Anyone who tries to make an argument about paying $10 for the use of
a private road is unworthy of being listened to.
Image by Josh Withers
Ready to eat
Casseroles & Curries
Eat well hiking
“Not your average camping meal
Absolutely delicious! Not going back
to dehydrated cardboard meals ever
again. Butter chicken is my favourite,
generous serving of meat and it has a
real spicy kick. The mash is scrummy
with the chopped chives.”
www.gonativeworld.com

.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
.....
URBAN
TECH
FOR YOUR SAFETY
AMALEN Waterproof Multifunctional Military Lensatic Compass
High strength engineering metal body, rugged and
capable of working under extreme weather condition.
Special design of fluorescent light, you can use it and
read data on it in dark environment after absorbing enough
sunshine.
High accuracy, built-in a bubble level, which can improve
its accuracy and decrease its errors
First Aid App by American Red Cross
This smartphone app provides
step-by-step instructions (with
videos and animations) for multiple
emergency medical situations:
bleeding, heatstroke, broken bones,
shocks, burns and much more.
It also includes strategic safety
tips for situations ranging from
winter storms to earthquakes and
tornadoes. Most importantly, all the
intel is pre-loaded, so everything’s
handy even if you don’t have wi-fi.
Gerber Bear Grylls Ultimate Pro Knife, Fine Edge
Full-tang, premium 9CR19MoV stainless steel
construction for durability. Military-grade, mildewresistant
nylon sheath with pull-through carbide
sharpener, for guaranteed sharpness. Built-in fire
starter rod in watertight holder.
gerberger.com
Multi tool 11 in 1
Multifunctioning
outdoor hunting survival
camping pocket military
credit card knife!
duniquetools.com
Garmin GPSMAP 64st, TOPO U.S. 100K
with High-Sensitivity GPS
The new GPSMAP® 64st
handheld navigator features a 2,6”
sunlight-readable screen and a highsensitivity
GPS and GLONASS
receiver with a quad helix antenna for
superior reception. The rugged and
waterproof GPSMAP 64st comes with
barometric altimeter, 3-axis compass
and a preloaded Recreational Map of
Europe. It wirelessly connects to your
smartphone to allow Live Tracking
and Smart Notification.
garmin.com
Exotac titanLight Waterproof Lighter
On top of rain, wind is often a major
culprit in making fires difficult to start.
Exotac’s titanLIGHT uses tiny air vents
located just below the flame to reduce wind
interference, along with a strong flame
guard that protects from heavy gusts. The
refillable lighter has an easy-spark flint
wheel and a small screw-off cap that can be
used to add more fluid or service the wick.
This windproof fire starter is a great gadget
to add to your emergency bag, along with a
compact bottle of lighter fluid.
exotac.com
78//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#219

KTI PLB personal emergency locator beacon SA2G-NZ 406MHZ
The New Zealand Coded Safety Alret personal
emergency locator beacon SA2G-NZ 406MHz PLB is
compact, fast and reliable, making it the ultimate global
rescue link for peopl ewho want peace of mind in the
outdoors. A free soft pouch and arm band are also included.
Free contitional battery replacement if used in a genuine
emergency.
RRP: $339.00
www.safetybeacons.co.nz
Sony DEV50V Binociulars
Digital binoculars with full
HD 3D recording with 12x optical
zoom, a dual G Lens and Full
HD recording, in a light, durable
body. Splash and dust proof body
for worry-free use. Dual Exmor R
CMOS sensors. Precision Sony G
Lenses with 12x zoom
sony.oc.nz
Sunsaver Super-Flex 14-Watt Solar Charger
Putting out over 2.5-Amps of output
on a sunny day you’ll charge your
phone and devices in no time at all,
straight from the sun.
RRP: $199.00
www.sunsaver.co.nz
SAS Survival guide app
SAS Survival guide app
This is the paid SAS Survival Guide app
(Android, iOS) based on the bestselling book by
John “Lofty” Wiseman. It contains the full text
of the book (optimized for mobile formats) and
covers a host of basic and advanced survival
topics. You will get comprehensive information on
first-aid, and photo galleries of edible, medicinal,
and poisonous plants. The survival app also offers
the author’s instructional videos and quiz to test
your knowledge..
Sunsaver Classic 16,000mAh Solar Power Bank
Built tough for the outdoors and with a
massive battery capacity you can keep all
your devices charged no matter where your
adventure takes you.
RRP: $119.00
www.sunsaver.co.nz
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 79

.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
.......
URBAN
DIVERSION
STORIES OF SURVIVAL
When I fell from the Sky
Miracle in the Andes
Touching the Void
Juliane Koepcke, the sole survivor of
the LANSA flight 508, tells the story of
her survival. The plane she was in was
struck by lightning killing 91 passengers.
Somehow 17 year old Juliane survived the
3km fall out of the sky landing into the
Amazon RainForest, still strapped to her
seat. This is an amazing story of survival
in a hostile environment.
No doubt we are all familiar with the
story of the Uruguayan rugby team on
board a plane that crashed into the Andes
Mountains and the survivors being forced
to resort to cannibalism to survive. The
original story was recounted in the 1974
book Alive, if you haven’t read that then
I would recommend it. However this
story is told from the lens of the person
most responsible for their rescue, Nando
Parrado. A fresh retelling of an incredible
story of survival.
The amazing true story of climbing
partners Joe Simpson and Simon
Yates and their adventure in the Andes
mountains. In 1985, when Joe shatters
his leg in a fall, Simon is left to help
his partner down the mountain, and
accidentally lowers him over a ledge. To
save himself, Simon has to cut his mate
free and Joe falls into a crevasse. Left for
dead, without food or water, and unable
to walk, Joe spends four days crawling his
way out of the crevasse and back to base
camp much to the surprise of his climbing
partner. The book was made into a movie
in 2003.
Between a Rock and a
Hard Place
No Surrender
That was the last order given to Second
Lieutenant Hiroo Onoda, a Japanese
army intelligence officer fighting at the
end of World War II. He followed those
orders for almost 30 years, hiding in the
jungles of the Philippines under the belief
that the war was still being fought. Hiroo
himself wrote down his experiences soon
after his return to civilization and offers a
rare glimpse of a man’s invincible spirit,
resourcefulness and ingenuity.
An incredible story of what we
can endure to survive. When Aron
Ralston gets his arm trapped
in the Utah canyons, he goes to
astounding lengths to keep himself
alive, doing what most of us would
think impossible. The book gives
us an insight into both the joys and
perils of adventuring alone. The
book was later made into a movie
called 127 Hours.
80//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#219

Gear guide
Whatever it
is you need
for your next
adventure, we've
got you covered.
Outdoor Research Helium Bivy
A perfect shelter for solo fast-and-light adventures.
It features durable, waterproof, breathable
Pertex® Shield+ fabric and an optional single pole.
459g.
RRP $299.99
BIVOUAC.CO.NZ
kiwi camping Rover Lite Self-Inflating Mat
Compressible foam core inflates/deflates with the
twist of a valve. Tapered mummy design fits in
most sleeping bags. Durable soft stretch fabric for
extra comfort. Weight: 900gm
RRP $99.00
KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ

Marmot Catalyst 2 person tent
Designed as a roomy, livable tent that
is still light in weight, the freestanding
Catalyst 2P has all the ideal features for
a casual camping trip, like a seam-taped
catenary cut floor, colour-coded poles for
easy set-up and two D-shaped doors,
along with enough room and pockets to
stash and organize all your necessary
gear.
RRP $399
Special price $259 (while stocks last)
MARMOTNZ.CO.NZ
SOTO AMICUS Stove with
Stealth Igniter
High-end performance,
lightweight, compact and
shock resistant. Igniter
installed inside the burner
post to improve ignition and
prevent breakage. Excellent
performance in windy
conditions. 81g.
RRP $74.99
BIVOUAC.CO.NZ
Helinox Chair One
Award-winning lightweight,
compact, durable chair that
is smaller and lighter than a
bottle of wine! DAC aluminium
pole frame. Weight rating
145kg. 5-year warranty. 960g.
RRP $179.99
BIVOUAC.CO.NZ

GO NATIVE READY TO EAT MEALS
Hearty and delicious ready to eat casseroles and
curries. Not freeze dried. This is real food ready to
eat. Food is one of the most important elements of
a successful trip, the ideal meal is a ready to eat
casserole or curry that you would happily eat at
home. Heat the meal pouch in boiling water for 2
minutes, use the hot water for a brew after heating.
Butter Chicken, Spaghetti Bolognese, Chilli Con
Carne, Vegetable Curry, Chicken and Chickpea
Curry, Beef Casserole, Chicken Italiano. 250g. Eat
well hiking.
RRP 250g $12.99
GONATIVEWORLD.COM
Black Diamond Storm375 Headlamp
Rugged, water and dust-proof headlamp
for adventures in the dark plus a
maximum brightness of 375 lumens,
a new, compact body and an updated
interface. 4 x AAA. 120g.
RRP $99.99
BIVOUAC.CO.NZ
Rab Ark Emergency Bivy
The ARK Emergency Bivy is the ideal lightweight bivi
bag for emergency situations. Made with lightweight PE
(Polyethylene), the ARK Emergency Bivy bag is wind and
waterproof and reflects body heat. Super packable, folding
down 12 x 6 cm in its stuff sack, and lightweight at 105g,
the ARK Emergency Bivi bag is an essential emergency
mountain product.
RRP: $19.95
OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ
kiwi camping Illuminator Light
with Power Bank
Light up the campsite with a bright
1000 Lumen LED with 5 lighting
modes. The hanging hook, built-in
stand, and tripod mount provide
versatile positioning options.
Charges most devices.
RRP $89.00
KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ
GASmate micra stove
Compact and lightweight,
ideal for serious backpackers.
Quality stainless steel
and aluminium alloy
construction. Piezo ignition.
Gas consumption: 230g/hr.
Weight: 132g. Output: 10,400
BTU. Plastic storage case
included.
RRP $44.99
KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ
84//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#219

kiwi camping Intrepid Lite Single Air Mat
Ideal for tramping and hiking, weighing just
480g. Packed size 230 L x 100 Ø (mm). 40D,
310T nylon ripstop construction. Supplied with
carry bag and repair kit.
RRP $99.00
KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ
kiwi camping tawa
sleeping bag
Keep warm in temperatures
as low as -10° with the hood,
draft strap and thermal
chest collar. The ‘mummy’
shape increases insulation
qualities for a more consistent
temperature.
Macpac NZAT HyperDRY Down Quilt 700
Climbing light without compromising your safety is a
constant battle in the mountains. Our NZAT Down Quilt
700 offers a novel solution: designed in collaboration with
the New Zealand Alpine Team (NZAT), this sleeping bag
alternative reduces the need to carry individual bags on
alpine trips.
RRP $799.99
MACPAC.CO.NZ
RRP $149.00
KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ

Back Country Cuisine
CHICKEN CARBONARA: A freeze dried
chicken and pasta dish, served in a
creamy italian style sauce.
MUSHROOM BOLOGNAISE - VEGAN:
Mushrooms with tomato in a savory sauce,
served with noodles. Vegan.
Available in one serve 90g or two serve
175g sizes.
RRP $8.99 and $13.49
CHOCOLATE BROWNIE PUDDING: Our
take on chocolate self-saucing pudding,
with chocolate brownie, boysenberries and
chocolate sauce. Gluten Free.
RRP 150g $12.49
BACKCOUNTRYCUISINE.CO.NZ
Back Country Cuisine
ICED MOCHA: Our mocha is made
with chocolate and coffee combined
with soft serve to give you a tasty
drink on the run. Gluten Free. 85g.
RRP $3.99
BACKCOUNTRYCUISINE.CO.NZ
FUELING EPIC
ADVENTURES
FOR 21 YEARS
Wherever your next
adventure is about to
lead you, we’ve got
the goods to keep you
going.
Est. 1998 Back Country
Cuisine specialises in
a range of freeze-dried
products, from tasty
meals to snacks and
everything in between, to
keep your energy levels up
and your adventures wild.
backcountrycuisine.co.nz
Jetboil Fuel
Jetpower fuel contains a blend of propane and iso-butane. Propane provides
higher vapour pressure to the fuel which means better performance in cold
weather. Fuel efficiency translates to weight, space, and money savings. Since
Jetboil is up to twice as efficient as conventional stoves, you can take half as
much fuel on your trip, thus saving weight. A Jetpower fuel canister, with 100
grams of fuel, boils as much water with Jetboil as competing stoves do with
their big 227g canisters. The other big benefit is space savings since Jetpower
canisters nest conveniently inside the cooking cup. Available in 100g, 230g &
450g recyclable canisters.
RRP $7.99 - $16.99
JETBOILNZ.CO.NZ
Steripen classic
Trusted on mountains and trails
for over 15 years, SteriPEN®
Classic is the best-selling portable
UV purifier of all time. UV light
destroys over 99.9% of waterborne
microorganisms that cause illness.
RRP: $199.95
OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ

2c - one
Proven survival light you are wearing
– lightweight and always at the ready
because it charges while you’re
wearing it. Includes new Boost mode,
S.O.S. and dimmer. Invented in NZ
and selling worldwide for 10+ years
RRP $39.90
WWW.SOLARLIGHTCAP.COM
Jetboil Flash 2.0
Blistering boil times come standard on our
industry-leading Flash. By modelling the
combustion and selecting materials to optimize
efficiency, we were able to create the fastest
Jetboil ever—cutting a full minute off our best boil
time. Flash is designed to be one of the safest
cooking solutions out there. The cooking cup clips
onto the burner, preventing accidental spills, and
the fuel canister tripod ensures overall stability.
The insulating cozy has a colour-changing heat
indicator that signals when contents are hot.
RRP $239.95
JETBOILNZ.CO.NZ
kiwi camping 1.2L Collapsible Turbo Pot
Flexible, lightweight and durable. Collapses
for easy storage. Durable translucent lid.
Hard-anodised aluminium base heats evenly
and efficiently. Heat resistant silicone is PBAfree
and easy to clean.
RRP $69.99
KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ
FAST
COMPACT
EFFICIENT
Compact, fast and efficient outdoor
stoves and cooking accessories.
Award winning technology in
personal and group cooking
systems, with Flux-Ring technology
for superior fuel efficiency and
reduced boil time.
Burner
Volume
Boil Time
Weight
RRP
ZIP
4,500
BTU/h
0.8 L
2 min 30sec
per 0.5 Litre
340 g
$199.95
FLASH
9,000
BTU/h
1 L
1 min 40sec
per 0.5 Litre
371 g
$239.95
MICROMO
6,000
BTU/h
0.8 L
2 min 15 sec
per 0.5 Litre
340 g
$279.95
MINIMO
6,000
BTU/h
1 L
2 min 15 sec
per 0.5 Litre
415 g
$299.95

Dropline
We designed the Dropline for mountain running enthusiasts
who want to move longer, quicker and more comfortably in alpine
terrain. It has a lightweight air mesh construction and a highperformance
EVA midsole that provides lightweight cushioning and
comfort, giving you softer landing comfort and minimizing impact
force on joints and muscles. The newly developed sole pack with
an S-Path design promotes a more natural, smoother roll-off during
rapid, dynamic movement, as well as superb stability. The rounded
Pomoca outsole performs well with positive traction in all types of
terrain. The supportive 3F system, protective wrapping EXA Shell
and anti-rock heel cup lock your foot in place and ensure torsional
stability. Inside, there is a breathable OrthoLite footbed with superior
cushioning and wicking moisture management to keep your feet
cooler and drier.
Featured product
FEATURES:
• 3F System - Connects the
instep area with the sole
and heel; ensuring flexibility,
support and the correct fit
where its needed.
• EXA-SHELL - The grid
structure wraps around your
upper foot, providing you
with a precise fit and perfect
front-foot balance.
• Ortholite® - Long-term
cushioning, high breathability
and moisture management
• Anti-rock heel cup - Stability
and durable protection on
even the toughest trails.
• Stretch gaiter - Designed to
keep out trail debris
• POMOCA® S Path -
Provides high-performance
grip on both dry & wet
surfaces
• Rubber toe cap - Protects
the toes from bumps &
increases the durability of
the shoe
MATERIAL:
• Upper -Stretchable Air Mesh
• Lining-Breathable mesh
lining
• Midsole -Performance EVA
• Outsole -Pomoca Dropline
BOBO.CO.NZ /BRANDS/SALEWA
Hoka One One KAHA GTX (men's & Women's)
The all-conditions, always comfortable backcountry
trekker. Named for the Māori word for strength and
support, the Kaha delivers both. With surprising speed,
it makes the ups easier and the downs quicker. When
hiking over long distances, this trekking shoe will deliver
you to your destination in comfort and safety. Unequaled
in its weight-to-cushion ratio, the Kaha GTX offers the
full HOKA ONE ONE® package — proprietary foams,
patented geometries and exceptional Vibram® Megagrip
traction. Soft and smooth, but inherently supportive, the
Kaha GTX features a GORE-TEX® waterproof bootie
that’ll keep your feet comfortable and dry regardless
of the conditions. And an adjusta-ble lacing system
provides a lockdown fit regardless of your foot type. The
world is your oyster.
Available in Mens & Womens.
RRP $499.00
HOKAONEONE.CO.NZ

SALEWA ULTRA TRAIN 2 (men's & Women's)
Unmatched durablitly, protection and stablility in a svelt
and springy package. Seamless mesh upper, debris
gaiter, full rand, speed lacing, 3F heel locking system,
and supportive anti-rock heel counter sit atop an eva
midsole with enough cush to let you keep it redlined
thorugh the rockiest routes. Michelin rubber confidently
sticks to both wet and dry surfaces. Added bonus…
vegan!
WEIGHT: 268G (W) 313G (M)
DROP: 8MM (HEEL: 26MM / TOE: 18MM)
RRP $299.00
BOBO.CO.NZ/BRANDS/SALEWA
merrell barefoot access XTR Eco – Men’s
The goal was to make a 0 drop trail runner for high intensity
activity that is as durable as possible with as much recycled
content as possible. Weight 224g (half pair)
RRP $229.00
MERRELL.CO.NZ
merrell Mag - 9 – Women’s
This trainer with a soft, durable knit upper features highly
responsive foam cushioning for shock absorption during
indoor and outdoor training. Weight 390g (half pair)
RRP $259.00
MERRELL.CO.NZ
GORE-TEX waterproof bootie keeps your feet comfortable and dry.
Vibram® Megagrip hi-traction outsole with 5mm lugs.
Full-grain waterproof leather upper for durability and support.
MORE INFO AT
HOKAONEONE.CO.NZ

FEED YOUR ADDICTION
Like a ‘perfect storm’, we have seen a dramatic growth and
development in online stores over the past 5 years. Now as we are
made to keep our ‘distance’, online, ecommerce takes on a whole
new meaning and value. We are dedicating these pages to our client’s
online stores; some you will be able to buy from, some you will be able
drool over. Buy, compare, research and prepare, these online stores are
a great way to feed your adventure addiction while you are still at home.
Never have a dead phone
again! Because now you can
charge straight from the Sun
with SunSaver. Perfect for
that week-long hike, day at
the beach, or back-up for any
emergency. Check us out at:
www.sunsaver.co.nz
A leading importer and
distributor of snow and
outdoor products in New
Zealand. Stock includes
Salewa, Lange, Dynastar,
Spyder and more.
www.bobo.co.nz
The ultimate sandals
with core concepts like
durability, pull through
strap design and the ability
to re-sole.
www.chaco.com
Full-service outfitter selling hiking
and mountaineering gear and
apparel, plus equipment rentals.
Specialising in ski & snowboard
touring equipment new & used;
skis, boards, bindings, skins,
probs, shovels,transceivers &
avalanche packs.
www.smallplanetsports.com
Developing the pinnacle
of innovative outerwear for
50 years. Shop now and
never stop exploring.
www.thenorthface.co.nz
Gear up in a wide selection of durable, multifunctional
outdoor clothing & gear. Free Returns. Free Shipping.
www.patagonia.co.nz
Making delicious, all natural, slow release energy
snacks and ready to eat casserole and curry pouches
(not freeze-dried) and multiday expedition food packs
multi-day expedition food packs for active people.
www.gonativeworld.com
Specialists in the sale of Outdoor Camping Equipment, RV,
Tramping & Travel Gear. Camping Tents, Adventure Tents,
Packs, Sleeping Bags and more.
www.equipoutdoors.co.nz
MTOUTDOORS
Outdoor equipment store specialising in ski retail, ski
rental, ski touring and climbing.
www.mtoutdoors.co.nz
Safety Beacons specialises in
the production of Emergency
Position Indicating Radio
Beacons (EPIRBs), rescue
beacons and aviation
simulation equipment.
www.safetybeacons.co.nz
90//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#219

Ultra lightweight running shoes, made by runners. No
matter where the trail takes you, Hoka One One will
have you covered.
www.hokaoneone.co.nz
Developing and selling innovative technological
products that provide practical solutions to every
day life whilst sustaining the environment and
contributing to reduction of carbon footprint.
www.2clight.com
Bivouac Outdoor stock the latest in quality outdoor
clothing, footwear and equipment from the best
brands across New Zealand & the globe.
www.bivouac.co.nz
Shop for the widest range of Merrell footwear, apparel
& accessories across hiking, trail running, sandals &
casual styles. Free shipping for a limited time.
www.merrell.co.nz
Whether you’re climbing mountains, hiking in the hills
or travelling the globe, Macpac gear is made to last
and engineered to perform — proudly designed and
tested in New Zealand since 1973.
www.macpac.co.nz
The ultimate in quality outdoor clothing
and equipment for travel, hiking, camping,
snowsports, and more. Guaranteed for life.
www.marmotnz.co.nz
Offering the widest variety,
best tasting, and most
nutrient rich hydration,
energy, and recovery
products on the market.
www.guenergy.co.nz
Fast nourishing freeze dried food for adventurers.
www.backcountrycuisine.co.nz
Jetboil builds super-dependable
backpacking stoves and camping
systems that pack light,
set up quick, and achieve
rapid boils in minutes.
www.jetboilnz.co.nz
Supplying tents and
camping gear to Kiwis
for over 30 years, Kiwi
Camping are proud to
be recognised as one of
the most trusted outdoor
brands in New Zealand.
www.kiwicamping.co.nz
Scarpa designs and manufactures top
quality ski boots, mountaineering, hunting,
rock climbing, hiking, alpine running, and
mountain footwear.
www.scarpanz.co.nz
The ultimate in quality outdoor
clothing and equipment
for travel, hiking, camping,
snowsports, and more.
Guaranteed for life.
www.adventureoutlet.co.nz
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 91

DIAGNOSING
BACKCOUNTRY
SKI ADDICTION
Article courtesy of the team at Aspiring Guides
The quest for fresh powder and
the need to carve first lines has always
been an addiction for skiers. What is
different is the fact that more and more
people are choosing to embark on
this quest in the NZ backcountry. With
winter fast approaching, and after being
self-isolated for weeks on end, you too
might be finding yourself dreaming of
that sweet moment of peeling skins off
your skis, a slight sweat on your brow
from the uphill, and dropping in for your
first run of the day. If so, it’s time to ask
some serious questions: “Is this more
than a hobby? “Can I stop if I want to?
What can I do about it?”
92//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#219
Image courtesy Malamala Beach Club

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 93

To get you started, here are a few of our top NZ
Southern Alps Backcountry Ski locations (listed from easy to
advanced):
Here is a short questionnaire
to help you with an early selfdiagnosis
of your potential long
term addiction.
1. Have you been
researching the latest backcountry
setup all summer?
2. Do you cringe at the idea
of driving up to the ski field after an
overnight dump only to arrive at the
back of a long lift line with the hill
already tracked out?
3. Do you find yourself
checking the weather every half
hour and the long term forecast
everyday?
4. Have you been pouring
over NZ topo maps and salivating
over the endless terrain?
5. Do you call every person
you know for beta on the best
backcountry locations?
6. Are you unable to sleep
due to anticipation of making fresh
lines?
If you answered yes to two or
more questions, you have a mild
case of Backcountry Addiction.
Obviously this grows in severity
the more questions you answered
positively. We here at Aspiring
Guides know the symptoms well,
and thankfully for the public, we
also know the cure: solid doses of
time in the beautiful New Zealand
backcountry.
● Pisa Range, Wanaka: (easy) Simple avalanche
terrain, easy to stay safe; low commitment level; no road
or control work closures to consider; short runs and climbs;
overnight options include DOC Kirtleburn Hut or private
Robrosa Hut through Aspiring Guides. Note that Cliffburn is
private land and landowners don’t permit private groups.
● Remarkables 'Doolans' Zone: (intermediate) Easy
quick access on foot via lake Alta or up the ski lift (Pass),
Subject to Avalanche control on storm days, views of
Queenstown and surrounds, safe access and exit for
hazardous days, reliable forecasting close to the ski hill.
Mix of terrain (hazard management-wise) from simple to
challenging.
● Black Peak, Wanaka - (advanced) Views of Lake
Wanaka; private land requires permission from Branches
Station (or go on a guided trip); overnight hut available
exclusive to Aspiring Guides, heli access or touring from
Treble Cone ski field (note this route is long and crosses
multiple avalanche paths)
● Treble Cone Backcountry (advanced): Committing for
hazardous days; challenging to complex terrain; usually a
more reactive (and better skiing) snow pack; views of Lake
Wanaka; close to heliskiing zones. Subject to opening and
control work on storms means long delays but worth it.
And remember, resist the urge to run willy nilly into the
backcountry:
• Take an avalanche awareness course!
• Gain experience and confidence in variable
conditions on your skis or snowboard.
• Take a touring course to improve your uphill
technique, navigation skills, trip planning, etc.
The more backcountry training you get, the better able
you are to manage your backcountry cravings in a healthy,
constructive way.
So if you’re growing more certain that you’re hooked
on the backcountry, don’t fret. Early diagnosis is key! The
best thing you can do is dream and plan your backcountry
adventures and this is a sure way to alleviate the ailment
(until next season, at least).
94//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#219

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 95

Why wait?
Adventure starts here
www.nationalpark.co.nz
Dual Heritage Tongariro
National Park

A WORLD OF
HIDDEN GEMS
Mighty and iconic, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing is without a doubt one of the most
legendary hikes in New Zealand - if not the world. It's no wonder it attracts tens of thousands
of adventurers to the Tongariro National Park each year - all looking to tackle its rugged terrain,
steep slopes and otherworldly landscapes.
But while it is a must-do activity for many, the Crossing is simply not for everyone - it is
after all, an almost 20km trek across a volcano! Most hikers will find completing the Crossing a
challenge, and for some, the sheer distance, sharp inclines and uneven conditions underfoot
make it a near impossible feat.
Fortunately, there is a multitude of other excellent walks in and around the Tongariro National
Park for those who can't or don't want to do the Crossing - offering something for everyone no
matter their fitness level. Some are well trodden, while others are true hidden gems...
Here are just a few of the locals' favourites:
Meads Wall
It might look like just an ordinary
rocky outcrop, but Meads Wall is in
fact a sheet of frozen magma that was
squeezed up within the oldest part of
the volcano that formed Mt Ruapehu.
It was one of the filming locations for
the Lord of the Rings films and offers
magnificent views of the valley below
and to Mt Ngauruhoe. Meads Wall is a
30-minute return walk from Whakapapa
ski area base on Mt Ruapehu.
Grade: Easy
Tawhai Falls
This family friendly 20-minute return
walk through mountain toatoa and
beech forest leads to the impressive
Tawhai falls. The falls tumble over the
edge of an ancient lava flow into a deep
rock pool - a favourite swimming spot
for locals. The walk is accessed off
SH48 - 4km from Whakapapa Village.
Distance: 700m
Grade: Easy
Ridge Track
The Ridge Track offers panoramic
views of Mt Ngauruhoe and the
surrounding landscape. It leads up a
short climb through low beech forest,
before emerging into alpine shrublands.
The track starts 150m above the
Tongariro National Park Visitor Centre.
Allow 30 to 40 minutes.
Distance: 1.2 km return
Grade: Easy
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 97

Silica Rapids
This highly varied walk travels
through mountain beech forest and
alongside a cascading stream to arrive
at the creamy-white terraces of the
Silica Rapids. A range of vegetation
types, including subalpine plants,
amid a mixture of swamp and tussock
country, feature around the track. On a
clear day, the walk offers spectacular
views of Ruapehu and Ngauruhoe.
The track begins 250 metres above
Whakapapa Village Visitor Centre and
returns along Bruce Road for 2.5km - or
return along the same track.
Distance: 7 km return via Bruce Rd
Grade: Easy
Tupapakurua Falls
One of the lesser discovered hikes
in the area, but also one of the more
challenging, the Tupapakurua Falls
track can be reached from National
Park Village. It starts off Fishers Road
and begins with an easy 20-minute
walk to the Taranaki lookout from
where you can view Mt Taranaki on a
clear day. From there, it becomes a
back-country adventure track suitable
for experienced hikers only. The track
follows a ridge and then descends
steeply to a stream with good stands
of native trees, including tawa, mature
rimu, miro and totara, along the way.
Climbing from the stream, the track
winds its way around bluffs to a good
lookout point with views of the falls.
Allow between 4 to 5 hours for the
return trip.
Distance: 11km
Grade: Moderate to difficult
Mangatepopo Valley
You don't have to hike the fulllength
of the Tongariro Alpine Crossing
to experience some of its splendour.
Hiking the first section of the Crossing
up Mangatepopo Valley - carved out by
glaciers and partially in-filled by lava
flows from Mt Ngauruhoe - to Soda
Springs is well worth a visit in its own
right. The walk sets off through fields
of yellow tussock before climbing at
a gentle gradient alongside a stream
and around the edges of old lava
flows. The valley ends at the foot of
Mt Ngauruhoe, where you're treated
with up close and personal views of
this iconic volcano. From here, a short
side track leads to Soda Springs where
clear, cold water cascades into a small
stream. Allow 3 hours for the return
journey, which makes it a perfectly
timed with the parking time limit at the
Mangatepopo carpark.
Distance: 8km return
Grade: Easy to moderate
Tama Lakes
A very close rival to the Tongariro
Alpine Crossing, the Tama Lakes
track crosses a distinctive undulating
landscape of tussock and alpine
herbfields. With very few ascents, apart
from a steep incline to 1440 metres to
the upper lake viewpoint, it's far less
arduous than the Crossing. Flanked by
Mt Tongariro and Ngauruhoe and Mt
Ruapehu, the views along this walk are
truly exceptional. On a clear day, you
might even be lucky enough to spot
Mt Taranaki on the western horizon.
The Tama Lakes occupy several old
explosion craters so are well worth the
trek to view. The walk starts and ends
in Whakapapa Village.
Distance: 17km return
Grade: Moderate, with a steep
ascent to the Upper Lake.
Taranaki Falls
A firm favourite for locals and
visitors looking for a short, but beautiful,
loop walk, the Taranaki Falls track is
perfect for families and travellers of
all ages and fitness levels. The track
offers an excellent glimpse of the varied
scenery and landscapes the Tongariro
National Park is known for - taking in
tussock, bush and ancient lava flows,
as it leads to a stunning waterfall.
Pack a picnic and enjoy spectacular
views of Mt Ruapehu and Mt Tongariro,
surrounded by native plants and
birdsong. The track also starts and
ends in Whakapapa Village.
Distance: 6km loop
Grade: Easy
98//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#219

"Hiking is
undoubtedly the
most popular
activity in and
around Tongariro
National Park.
However, it's by far
not the only thing
to do in the area."
Stay local
You will need at least two to three days to explore the natural and
cultural wonders of New Zealand's oldest national park and Dual World
Heritage Area. Fortunately, accommodation options abound in and around
Tongariro National Park, catering for all budgets.
massive
half price
rafting for
everyone
UNtil the end of
August
Located on the boundary of Tongariro National Park just off State
Highway 4, National Park Village is an ideal base for your adventures in the
area. The village offers a wide range of accommodation from backpackers
to boutique lodging - all just a short stroll from a choice of cafes, bars and
restaurants. There's also a petrol station, supermarket and an outdoor gear
store.
Whakapapa Village boasts a small number of accommodation options
in the heart of the Tongariro National Park, including the historic Chateau
Tongariro Hotel.
For those looking to stay in more rural settings, Raurimu and Erua
villages are excellent options.
Not a hiker? Try these adventures that don't include walking! Hiking
is undoubtedly the most popular activity in and around Tongariro National
Park. However, it's by far not the only thing to do in the area. Here are some
other adventures in the area that don't involve walking:
Ride the hills!
Feel the adrenaline rush of a
quad bike adventure and explore
the untouched beauty of the Erua
Forest with Ruapehu Adventure
Rides.
Take to the skies in a scenic
flight
Witness the volcanoes of the
Tongariro National Park in all their
glory from the air with Mountain Air
Volcanic Flights!
Bike through ancient native
forests
Enjoy two family-friendly
mountain bike tracks directly from
National Park Village – the downhill
Fishers Track or Marton Sash &
Door loop along a historic bush
tramway. Rent bikes and arrange
transfers with My Kiwi Adventure.
Family fun
Enjoy a gentle put on the minigolf
course at Schnapps Bar in
National Park Village or reach for
new heights at the indoor climbing
centre next door at National Park
Backpackers. The Roy Turner
Memorial Playground on Buddo
Street is a treat for kids of all ages
with its state-of-the-art playground
equipment.
Refuel with views of majestic
mountains
Soak in the spiritual
significance & natural splendour of
three volcanic peaks at once while
enjoying one of the many local
eateries with mountain views.
For more information on
planning your Tongariro National
Park adventure, visit:
www.nationalpark.co.nz
you deserve
an escape
to adventure!
USECODE: WIN2020

ANDY'S MEMORABLE
MARINE ADVENTURES
Andy Belcher is a talented Bay of Plenty freelance photographer with 82 top photographic awards to his credit.
They include British Wildlife Photographer of the Year, Australasian Underwater Photographer of the Year and Nikon
Photo Contest International. Ask him a question on his photographic career and he’ll usually answer you with “Gosh,
where do I start?” And that’s the way it’s always been for Andy. Utterly self-taught, with no qualifications (and proud
of the fact) Andy believes his open minded approach to learning has enabled him to break photographic boundaries
– simply because he never knew they existed. Andy’s business success can be partly attributed to his versatility. He
shoots a wide variety of commercial photographic imagery from tourism to underwater, he runs photo workshops,
offers private tuition, writes and photographs magazine features and has just completed his third children’s book.
LEVIATHAN OF THE DEEP!
Three years ago I made my
first trip to Vava’u in northern Tonga
and when I boarded my aircraft
in Auckland I had no idea what
incredible adventures awaited me.
On day one we boarded Beluga
Diving’s whale swimming boat
Gladiator and headed out into
pristine blue water. After two hours
on the briny we were floating beside
two humpback whales. To describe
my first encounter with a 40 tonne
humpback as life changing is
probably an understatement. I had
to pinch myself a couple of times to
make sure it was me! I soon realized
that using the camera’s viewfinder
at the surface simply showed a lot of
surface water and not enough whale.
So, I threw caution to the wind, held
the camera below me and used the
point and shoot technique which
worked much better. By taking heaps
of images I hoped that one would line
up perfectly on the whale.
Humpback whales are often
called Acrobats of the Sea and
lots of action happened above the
surface too. To capture a breach
required a good position on the
boat, concentration, patience, a fast
focusing lens and a fast motor drive.
The D3 shoots nine frames a second
and I managed to get a few images
of this humpback before it splashed
down.
On day four we struggled to
find a good whale encounter. Moa,
our female skipper, received a call
from another boat and we were
soon alongside it. “Get ready,” she
shouted but there was no sign of a
humpback! “Where is the whale?”
I asked. She quickly responded,
“Trust me, swim that way, go, go,
go”. I slid gently into the water,
camera in hand. The boat’s propeller
had caused aerated water like a
fog and I swam blindly through it.
When I emerged into clear water an
enormous whale shark was only 3
metres away and coming straight at
me! I tried to gather my senses and
back peddled furiously to one side
to avoid a head on collision with this
monster. It slid past me very close
and all I could see was white spots!
Even though the fish appeared to
swim very slowly there was no way
of keeping up with it. We returned to
the boat, moved ahead of it and then
jumped in again. The whale shark
was so big I struggled to get the
whole animal in my photo even with
my super wide Tokina lens.
At 12 to 14 metres the whale
shark is the world’s largest fish and
seeing a snorkeler behind it gives
you an appreciation of how big it
really is. We swam beside it for a
whole 90 minutes in water which was
1000 metres deep with visibility of
70 metres plus. It doesn’t get much
better than that! I have been diving
since 1973 and this was without
doubt my best encounter ever and
beyond my wildest dreams.
100//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#219

Years ago I visited Heron Island, a
natural coral cay, right on Queensland’s
Great Barrier Reef. I was invited to
work briefly with the legendary Ron and
Valerie Taylor who were filming with a
mini submarine. After that I focused more
on the wildlife. Heron Island is a nesting
place for approximately 100,000 black
noddy terns and the vulnerable Green
and Loggerhead Turtles.
The viewing of nesting and
hatching turtles starts each year around
November, the very time I was there!
After the evening’s high tide I enjoyed
watching several turtles lay their eggs in
the sand. It was now late so I retired for
the night.
Very early next morning I heard a
child screaming excitedly “dad, come and
see the turtles”. Still half asleep I grabbed
my camera bag and stumbled my way
towards the beach in my nightwear!
Three turtles were dragging themselves
awkwardly down towards the waters
THIRTEEN PACES
edge. I tried to creep up quietly to the first
one. A German tourist behind me called
out “its against the rules to go closer than
10 meters!” If an animal comes close to
you its okay so rather than being rude to
him I tried to work out a strategy.
I observed that each turtle stopped
and rested with its head on the sand for
about a minute. They then raised their
heads, took two deep breaths and moved
off again. To my amazement I counted
each turtle moving exactly thirteen
paces before stopping again for another
rest. There was now only one turtle left
and at the end of her second effort she
appeared to be about thirteen paces from
the sea. Hoping for a miracle I dashed
down the beach and carefully lay down
in shallow water with camera in hand.
Directly in her path I froze like a rock with
camera to my left eye (I’m a left eyed
viewer). I glanced at the turtle with my
right eye. She was on the move again
and as she got closer I could hear her
heavy breathing. To my utter amazement
she came into the water, stopped right
in front of me and put her head down.
I thought to myself “don’t stuff this up
because it’s a special moment”. The sun
was just peeping over the horizon and as
she lifted her head to breath she created
a slight ripple in the calm water. I pushed
the shutter button and then waited for the
flash to recycle. Its ready light glowed
red, she turned and looked at me and I
took one more photo before she moved
to deeper water. I could not preview
the images because I was shooting film
with a Nikon F4. Oh how things have
changed!
When I got home and saw this
photo I was elated. Its one of my all time
favourites and it won a major place in
the British Wildlife Photographer of the
Year Competition. To photograph wildlife
without hassling it, sometimes you have
to hatch a plan. I got very lucky on this
occasion. My plan worked!
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 101

Launched in February 1931, the
SS President Coolidge was operated
as a luxury liner. After the Pearl
Harbour attack in 1941 she was
commissioned as a transport ship
to reinforce garrisons in the Pacific.
She set sail from San Francisco for
New Caledonia and Espiritu Santo in
Vanuatu. On her approach to Santo
in October 1942, the SS Coolidge
struck two mines and the captain ran
her aground. 4,998 troops got safely
off the ship before she sank. She
now rests on her port side in warm
tropical waters with her bow at a
depth of 20 meters and her stern at
70 meters.
I was invited to photograph
the infamous Coolidge and as we
descended towards the huge wreck
I was vaguely conscious of a large
fish shape in the distance. My eyes
just about popped out of my head!
It was the biggest grouper I had
ever seen and I became transfixed
with photographing this wonderful
250-kilo monster. Unfortunately
my magazine editor wanted me to
photograph a mural called The Lady
BORIS THE GROUPER
in the ship’s dining room and took me
to deeper water. Next day we moved
on to another location. I was gutted.
I knew instinctively that the grouper
was an amazing photo opportunity
and promised myself I would return.
One year later I returned to dive
the Coolidge again. My wonderful
resident Japanese dive guide
Mayumi told me the grouper’s
name was Boris and promised to
bring him close to my camera. We
swam down the starboard side of
the Coolidge to see Boris lurking
in the distance. I signalled Mayumi
to wait while I set up my camera.
Then I could concentrate on the
composition of the image in the heat
of the moment. Guessing Boris might
come very close I manually focused
on my knee. I manually metered
the background water and set the
strobes on low power so as not to
over expose the fish. I was ready. We
kneeled on the hull. Mayumi pulled
from her plastic container a fish the
size of a small kahawai and waived
it above her head. In an instant Boris
was right in my face! As he turned
in front of me with his little yellow
followers I took one photo.
Two weeks later I saw the
transparency was pin sharp and
perfectly exposed. I was elated
and it was to become my most
successful image. It won a first
place in the world’s prestigious
Wildlife Photographer of the Year
competition. Being flown to London’s
Natural History Museum to accept
my award from Richard Attenborough
was the highlight of my photographic
career. The image then toured the
world as part of their exhibition and
its appearance brought me lots of
new work enquiries.
Several years later my 12-yearold
daughter Ocean completed
her PADI open water dive training
and I took her to meet Boris. She
appeared to have absolutely no fear
of this huge fish. What I learned from
this whole Boris experience was this.
Once you recognize a great photo
opportunity don’t give up on it. Go
back and do it again and again until
you get it right!
102//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#219

CLOSE CALL WITH CROCODILE
I was on a live-aboard dive boat
called Bilikiki in the Solomon Islands.
One evening we anchored next to a
beautiful island in the Russell’s group.
Some guests snorkelled in the crystal
clear water and met locals in their
canoes. I relaxed on the main deck with
a cool drink. Jimmy, a crew member,
was lowering the ships inflatable boat
into the water and I wondered why.
As he came alongside the stern dive
platform excited guests were jumping
into the inflatable. They had spotted
a large saltwater crocodile at the top
of the beach. I screamed out rather
arrogantly “don’t you dare go without
me. I’ll just get my camera”. I raced up
to my cabin, grabbed my Nikon camera
body and nearly fell down the steps
while trying to fit my 70-200 mm zoom
lens. I stepped on to the inflatable and
thanked everyone for their patience.
Jimmy took us close to the beach
on the up-current side of the crocodile.
He stopped the outboard and the
current carried us slowly along the
beach edge. I was disappointed that
the animal was tucked away under
the shade of the trees with only its tail
showing. I took several photos as we
drifted past but they certainly weren’t
the images I was hoping for. Jimmy
started the outboard and we went
round for another try. As we drifted
by the crocodile was motionless. The
consensus onboard was that we now
give up and go back to the Bilikiki
for dinner. I was not impressed and
pleaded for one more pass. They
agreed.
We moved up again and stopped
the outboard. I stared at the crocodile
and secretly wished it to come down
the beach and stop halfway. To my
utter amazement it did exactly that
just a few seconds later. As we drifted
towards this huge creature my camera
was working overtime. Jimmy could see
I was excited and stuck his paddle in
the sand to stop us drifting any further.
The crocodile was now only four or five
metres away and we were right in its
path! I had plenty of static photos and
secretly wished for a bit of action. But
maybe that was the wrong thing to do.
The crocodile rocketed straight towards
us. The shriek of someone screaming
resonated in my ears and accentuated
my sudden feeling of fear. I was afraid
the animal would launch itself over the
pontoon, into our boat and rip us all
to pieces! After all the crocodile has
the strongest bite of any animal in the
world. At the last split second it veered
to the left and I felt the boat shudder as
it slid past us and into the water.
I gathered my composure, spun
around and took one last photo as the
crocs powerful tail propelled it towards
deeper water. We watched with mouths
open as it swam into the distance and
disappeared. We all looked at each
other and quickly erupted into slightly
nervous laughter. A sense of relief
came over us. I think we were lucky to
be in one piece and would go home
to our friends and family with a very
special story to tell.
All photos are copyright Andy Belcher-Legend Photography. Prints available on request. www.andybelcher.com email photos@andybelcher.com
Phone 021 444 830 Specializing in Aerial, Tourism and Adventure photography. Private photography tuition also available.
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 103

WORLD
EXPEDITIONS
When reality gets too much, dreams help us to survive
By Natalie Tambolash
Who would have thought that we
would be sitting here today in a world
that changed overnight. Where today,
is an incredibly different today from
yesterday, and where tomorrow still
brings with it many unknowns. Some of
us relish in the adventure, grab it with
both hands, excited for the changes,
adapting to the new reality and ready to
explore. Some of us struggle to adapt,
living with the fear of the unknown,
anxious, uncertain, wondering what
next. No matter where you sit right now
on this current new adventure we are
all in….take a moment. Breathe in. Sit
back and dream for a moment of where
you might want to go to next.
It seems that as kids, we were
better at dreaming than what we are
now. We would go into our own world,
where we would think about who we
would marry, what kind of house we
would live in, would we have a cat or a
dog, what we would do when we grew
up, what kind of cake we would have
for our birthday, and well, what exotic
destinations we would travel to. For
some of us, it was a rocket to the moon.
For others, it was camping during the
holidays along the river. No matter how
big or small, we dreamed and for that
moment, we escaped our reality. The
game of life was ours and we could
make it whatever we wanted.
As I sit and think about where to
next, I think about the amazing trips
of the past. That cycle trip down the
Danube on a beautiful Spring day in
Europe. Blue skies, and bitter ice-cold
days with pelting rain. Cycling along
one of the most well-known rivers in
Europe. Peering over stone walls into
village gardens, trying not to be nosey,
but interested in what lay over that
stone wall. Stopping for coffee and
pastries at one of the many bakeries
and patisseries along the way or my
favourite, discovering the amazing
flavour of poppyseed ice-cream which
for a lover of poppyseed was heaven.
Also discovering a new favourite soup,
Baerlauchcremesuppe, (Wild Garlic
Soup), all of the flavour, none of the
pungency. Peering through stained
glass windows of old churches and
reading the headstones in the historic
and gothic looking graveyards trying
to work out their stories. And well, who
could forget Vienna!
Then there were those trips to
Africa. A real eye opener and honestly,
never really on my bucket list. From the
best of the best on offer in South Africa
including seeing the slum life of Soweto,
delving into the history of humankind,
sampling delectable South African
wines and local produce in Franschoek,
experiencing 5* game lodges and
drives in Kruger, the native fauna of
Grootbosch and much more. To 4WD
game drives in the forests of Tanzania
and the well know Ngorongoro Crater
with wildlife everywhere you could
possibly see. Of course, one of the
main dreams come reality was climbing
Kilimanjaro. Taking each step on that
final night, in the pitch, black darkness,
with not much left in the tank. Crying.
Thinking what on earth are we doing.
Eating gummy bears. But you haven’t
seen sunrise, until you are standing on
the roof of Africa, seeing it raise its head
over the continent. Bringing with it the
warmth and the utter joy that you need.
Perhaps the adventure is in the
mystery of the land and its people such
as my trip along the Silk Road. Stories
vaguely that I could recall from history
lessons past, but nothing much known
about the people or the landscape of
these lands. I learnt that trekking in
the Fann Mountains is by far one of
the most scenic in the world. Stunning
vistas. Crystal clear blue lakes. Amazing
mountain surrounds from atop the high
passes and incredibly friendly locals
who pull up to your tent and you’re not
entirely sure if they are out to rob you,
or chat. Chat it was in our combined
Russian, Tajik and Croatian dialects.
The people are incredibly friendly.
Melons, cucumbers and tomatoes are
a staple. But you will never have a
peach as tasty as you will in Uzbekistan,
nor see such intricate buildings and
architecture.
Some of us might want the rough
and rugged. The untouched landscapes
that are shaped by ice, wind and
geology on a journey to the Arctic Circle.
Where the weather is unpredictable and
the wildlife even more so. The scenery
changes on a daily basis. The journey
onboard a small ship has a planned
day to day schedule, yet the plan gets
thrown out the window depending on
what the day brings. Where you think
104//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#219

you might see a Polar Bear, only to have the
crew describe what you might actually see
is just a cream dot in a ‘Where’s Wally’ type
of photo. But then where all your landings
are aborted due to the abundance of Polar
Bears. Where you experience them on ice
on a perfectly blue-sky day. See them on ice
in full blown blizzard conditions. Or witness
a real take your breathe away moment,
seeing them feeding on a walrus carcass on
land, whilst you sit in utter silence on a small
boat, bobbing up and down, trying to take the
perfect shot, whilst not dropping your camera
or making a peep . Where nature owns the
landscape and the itinerary.
There is still so much on the travel dream
list. The pyramids and ancient cities of
Mexico, (as well as eating proper guacamole).
The flavours and pilgrimage trails of Spain
and Portugal. A trek through the amazing
mountains of the Canadian Rockies. The
wild landscapes and untouched regions of
Patagonia….my list goes on and on.
We have never quite known what life is
going to throw at us, and well, that is both
the beauty and the adventure that is life.
Sometimes we need the fantasy to survive
the reality. Relax now. Take time to read that
book, explore a country online, or learn a
new language so that when I ask you in a few
month’s time, you will be able to tell me…..
where to next?
RELAX NOW
Have a BIG ADVENTURE later
Stay safe, but keep dreaming:
worldexpeditions.com
0800 350 354
enquiries@worldexpeditions.co.nz

Notchup © Drones.nc / NCTPS
#NewCalPulse
NEWCALEDONIA.TRAVEL

NEW
CALEDONIA
The South Pacific's Surprising Hiking Hotspot
If you ask someone to
describe New Caledonia,
they’ll likely conjure images
of white sand beaches,
cocktails by the pool and
days spent languishing in
the blue lagoon waters.
And these are all certainly
things you can enjoy in New
Caledonia. But there’s so
much more adventure to be
had, which is great news for
the inquisitive travellers out
there.
At less than three
hours from Auckland, New
Caledonia is one of the
most easily accessible
overseas getaways from New
Zealand. A French territory
in the South Pacific, it offers
travellers a unique mix of
French and local cultures,
gourmet dining, striking
landscapes and outdoor
experiences to explore.
One such outdoor
experience is the country’s
over 500 km of marked
trails. Labelled by the FFRP
(French Federation of
Hiking), these trails make
New Caledonia a surprising
hotspot for hiking in the
South Pacific. It has two longdistance
hiking trails (GR®
NC1 in the south and GR®
NC2 in the north) and more
than fifty walking and hiking
trails. And this is without
counting other magnificent
unmarked routes, especially
in the north and the Loyalty
Islands.
There’s something on
offer for all time frames and
abilities, from short day-hikes
to more-than-100 kilometre,
multi-day options. Here are
five essential hikes to enjoy
in New Caledonia:
1.
<
GR® SUD SENTIER DE GRANDE RANDONNÉE NC1
(SOUTH HIKING TRAIL NC1)
Level: Difficult
Distance: 126 km
Duration: 7 days
Elevation gain: +5,415 m
Starting Point: Prony Village (1 hour drive from Noumea)
Finish Point: Dumbéa Nature Reserve
Passing through the municipalities of Yaté, Mont-Dore and Dumbéa,
the GR® Sud crosses several of New Caledonia's most iconic sites,
namely the Blue River Provincial Park and its drowned forest, the
Dumbéa Natural Park, the Chutes de la Madeleine reserve and the
village of Prony. In addition to its technical stages that will delight
seasoned hikers, the trail showcases the incredible biodiversity of the
Great South – New Caledonia is one of the most biodiverse destinations
in the world with many endemic plant and animal species.
For those that don’t have as much time, this trail can be done in
stages. The trail can also be experienced alone or with a guide, and
camping sites are set up along the way. For more information, visit
province-sud.nc.
© S. Duncandas / NCTPS
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 107

Deva Domain, is a nature reserve located on New Caledonia's stunning west coast. About 2.5 hours drive north of Noumea
© Province Sud / NCTPS
THE DIPODIUM TRAIL
Level: Difficult
Type: Loop
Duration: 4h 30
Starting Point: Blue River Provincial Park (1.5 hours’
drive from Noumea)
For adventurous travellers, The Blue River Provincial
Park is a must visit. An easy drive from Noumea, the
Park’s striking red soil landscape and drowned forest
captivates guests and is a change from the blue lagoons
that surround the capital city. The Park is home to
eighteen hiking trails, however the Dipodium Trail offers
perhaps some of the best panoramas of the Park,
allowing visitors to truly take in its size and scenery. For
more information, visit province-sud.nc.
2.
THE GRANDES FOUGÈRES TRAIL
Level: Easy
Type: Loop
Distance: 3.1 km
Duration: 1h 15
Elevation gain: +131 m
Starting point: Grandes Fougères National Park (2 hours’
drive from Noumea)
3.
The Grandes Fougères Park is located in the centre of New
Caledonia, in its mountainous region. It’s perhaps one of the
greenest parks in New Caledonia and is a pleasant spot for
hikers of all ages and experiences. It’s also an ideal place to
see some of New Caledonia’s endemic birds and plant species
– the park is called the ‘Great Fern’ Park after all! It’s home
to seven trails, however the Grandes Fougères Trail is one
of the easiest, so great for any level of experience. For more
information, visit grandes-fougeres.nc.
108//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#219

4.
THE BOÉ ARÉRÉDI TRAIL
Level: Easy
Type: Loop
Distance: 4.5 km
Duration: 2 h
Elevation gain: +317 m
Starting point: Deva Domain (2.5 hours’ drive from
Noumea)
Situated within the Deva Domain national reserve
on the West Coast, hikers will enjoy juxtaposing views
of the region’s rural fauna against the backdrop of
the glittering blue Deva lagoon, which is one of six
parts of New Caledonia’s lagoon that are a UNESCO
World Heritage Listed site. Deva Domain is also home
to the beautiful Sheraton Deva New Caledonia Spa
& Golf resort – for those adventurous travellers who
enjoy a little luxury too! The Boé Arérédi Trail is one of
four hikes in the Deva Domain. Visit deva.nc for more
information.
© Massaki Hojo / NCTPS
© Massaki Hojo / NCTPS
© Terres de lumière / NCTPS
5.
ROCHES DE LA OUAIEME
Level: Difficult
Type: Loop
Distance: 10 km
Duration: 7 to 9 h
Elevation gain: +1,100 m
Departure: “Chez Maria” campsite at the Ouenghip
Tribe near Hienghène (5 hours’ drive from Noumea)
Located on New Caledonia’s East Coast,
Hienghène is home to impressive waterfalls, lush
vegetation and coral forests, and is known for its
striking limestone cliffs that jut up against the crystalclear
blue lagoon. The Roches De La Ouaieme trail
takes hikers through forests and creeks and offers
panoramic views of Mont Panié (New Caledonia’s
highest mountain) and the lagoon from the cliffs of
Ouaieme (which sits 744 metres above sea level).
Visit province-nord.nc for more information.
For more information on New Caledonia, hiking, guides and more, visit newcaledonia.travel.
© Ethnotrack / NCTPS
© Terres de Lumière / NCTPS
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 109

vanuatu.travel

VANUATU
9 Exciting Family-Friendly Adventures
BLUE HOLES AND ROPE SWING
Seeing a spectacular sight for yourself
is one thing, but watching your kids’
reaction to a natural wonder is something
else entirely. Vanuatu is packed full of
family-friendly adventures that will have
you talking about your holiday for years to
come.
If you have ever travelled with kids, you
will have heard "I’m bored" more times than
you care to remember. Not in Vanuatu! As
well as the facilities in your resort or hotel,
such as man-made swimming pools and
kids’ clubs run by enthusiastic locals, the
tours and natural excursions in Vanuatu
are a chance to experience new things
with your kids. Family holidays here will
have them on the edge of their seats with
excitement and exhausted by the end of
each day. Check out these top nine familyfriendly
adventures in Vanuatu.
2.
These are not your average rope
swings. Even the most seasoned
rope-swing makers will be in awe of
these creations, which are scattered at
waterfalls and blue holes throughout
Vanuatu. Just like something out of
Tarzan, these huge swings will have the
kids (and kids-at-heart) jumping for joy
and queueing up for a few more goes.
The crystal clear swimming holes in
Vanuatu are vibrant shades of blue and
have a great island vibe about them as
villagers and visitors alike relax on the
banks or take a refreshing dip, while the
local kids (pikinini) welcome newcomers
into their games as they splash about in
the water. If you want to try something
more challenging during your family
holiday in Vanuatu, clamber to the top of
the Mele Cascades waterfalls on Efate
island and enjoy swimming in the pools
and taking in the awesome views.
1.
Vanuatu Jungle Zipline in Port Vila on
the island of Efate is suitable for kids aged
four and above, and offers a three-hour
tour packed full of thrill-seeking fun. Take
in the views over the tops of the trees
out over Mele Bay as you speed along
the wires. You’ll feel like you are flying
as you take on the different ziplines and
suspension bridges between the tree-top
platforms. This family-friendly activity in
Port Vila is available on its own or as part
of a package with a helicopter ride.
VANUATU'S ZIPLINE
In Vanuatu, helicopters aren’t reserved
for action-packed movie scenes. With
several flight options departing from a
floating pontoon in Port Vila harbour, you
and your family can take off in style for an
3.
unforgettable adventure. Whether you want
to meet the local marine life at the turtle
sanctuary or touch down on an extinct
volcano, Vanuatu Helicopters in Port Vila
has family-friendly flights to suit everyone.
HELICOPTER OVER EFATE
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 111

4.
SNORKELLING IN VANUATU
KAYAKING IN SANTO
A Vanuatu snorkelling trip is the perfect familyfriendly
activity in Vanuatu. As you depart from the
Back to Eden restaurant on Efate, your guide will
show you huge anemones packed full of real-life
Nemos (clownfish), giant clams and, if you're lucky,
a sea turtle, too. After the tour, enjoy a drink at
the restaurant as you watch the sun go down over
the water. Other snorkelling and scuba diving in
Vanuatu can be accessed via boat trips or straight
off the beach. Some of the best snorkelling spots
are the Second World War wrecks — especially
the SS President Coolidge at Million Dollar Point
(off the coast of Espiritu Santo) — and snorkelling
tours to smaller islands from Efate such as
Hideaway Island and Lelepa Island. Top tip: it is
worth packing a snorkel set to explore the blue
holes and beach reefs you’ll discover all over
Vanuatu.
5.
Snaking their way around the islands are
kilometres of rivers and streams which connect up to
Vanuatu’s famous blue holes. The island of Espiritu
Santo has more blue holes than any of the other
islands, and kayaking up the picturesque waterways
is a great way to discover them while on your family
holiday in Vanuatu. Keep the kids entertained with
bird watching and spotting the fish that dart around
under the boat as you paddle your way along.
6.
MT YASUR VOLCANO DAY TRIP
The active volcano on the island of
Tanna is a truly awe-inspiring natural
wonder. It’s one of the world’s most
accessible volcanoes, as four-wheel
drive vehicles can drop you off just 150
metres from the edge of the crater. If
you’ve got a spring in your step, you can
always walk from the bottom. Stare into
the belly of the earth as red-hot lava spits
and dances, and steam rises from the
centre of the 400-metre-wide crater. The
desolate, blackened landscape of the
361-metre-high Mt Yasur Volcano is in
stark contrast to the lush rainforest that
makes up most of Vanuatu’s islands. This
is due to the semi-regular eruptions that
deposit volcanic rock and lava onto the
ash plain. Travelling as a family is always
a great way to teach your kids something
new, and this is one experience they
will not forget in a hurry. Book a Tanna
volcano tour or arrange four-wheeldrive
transport and a guide via your
accommodation. Top tip: don’t forget to
take a postcard to post in the letterbox on
the volcano for the folks back home.
112//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#219

VANUATU ECOTOURS
7.
If your family loves the great
outdoors, an ecotour is a great
way to experience Vanuatu’s
magnificent natural beauty, while
supporting conservation efforts.
Whether you have teenagers
or little ones, or kids with lots
of different interests, there is a
Vanuatu Ecotour that the whole
family can enjoy; from mountain
biking to turtle tagging, kayaking
to bird watching.
8.
Some of Vanuatu’s best
beaches are on the island of Espiritu
Santo. After exploring inland, an
afternoon on the beach can be
just what the doctor ordered. Port
Olry on the north-east of Santo
is a picturesque bay with islands
and coral reefs just off the beach
which you can kayak to, as well
as beachside huts serving tasty
local seafood dishes. Just south
of Port Olry is Champagne Beach,
where the calm, clear water makes
it perfect for younger kids to swim.
There are also market stalls and
walking trails here if you want to
stretch your legs. Travelling on
Efate? Head to the family-friendly
Eton Beach for an afternoon paddle.
PORT VILA BUGGY ADVENTURES
VANUATU'S BEST BEACHES
9.
Explore the island of Efate by buggy or quad bike
on a Vanuatu tour that is perfect for thrill-seekers. Book
ahead with Off Road Adventures and depart on your Port
Vila tour to explore the beaches, jungles and remote rural
areas of the island. Suitable for kids over five years of age,
this experience is as exhilarating as it is muddy, so dress
appropriately.
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 113

A C T I V E
a d v e n t u r e
CRASHED! INJURED!
NEED HELP...
Small enough to
fit in your breast
pocket
4hrs from camp then 2 days walk
out – you slip badly – you know
you’re in deep trouble
Daily savings
at your fingertips...
WWW.SAFETYBEACONS.CO.NZ 0800 GETPLB
0800 438752
Access 2,000 discounts
across NZ & Australia.
Join now:
yha.co.nz/
membership
The best handmade crocheted hacky sacks
you can buy!
SEAPA NZ
P.O. Box 104, Whangamata, 3643
p: 027 451 8255 e: dave@seapa.co.nz
www.seapa.co.nz
114//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#219

Enjoy All Press coffee,
gourmet meals, freshly
squeezed juices, and
home baking from the
tranquil courtyard.
Enjoy a relaxing
atmosphere with some
fish n’ chips and tap beers.
Or, if in a rush, grab some
yummy takeaways!
4/4 Buckingham Street, Arrowtown
p: 03 442 0227 e: unwind_cafe@hotmail.com
www.unwindcafe.co.nz
Your Mobile
Power Solution
www.sunsaver.co.nz
Tasman Glacier Heli Skiing
Exclusive heli skiing at the head of NZ’s
biggest glacier. Tick off your bucket list
with a four-run Tasman Glacier Heli Ski
day. Ice Canyons, ice caves and four long
runs through spectacular scenery.
Heli hiking also available.
0274 342277 / www.mtcook.com

THE TROUT THE TROUT HOUSE HOUSE
JOBS
the website for
adventure professionals,
those looking
for work and those
looking for staff
Te Herekeikei Street, Turangi
p. 027 5775014 e. steve@pacificmedia.co.nz
Excellent location for fishing, hiking,
. . . mountain biking, rafting, skiing and more . . .
Te Herekeikei Street, Turangi
ph:027 577 5014
or email steve@pacificmedia.co.nz
www.adventurejobs.co.nz
U L T I M A T E V O L C A N O E X P E D I T I O N S
www.ultimatevolcanoexpeditions.com
CALL: NZ +64 21 329 248 or Netherlands +31 616687416
OFFERING ENDLESS EXPEDITION OPPORTUNITIES FOR THOSE SEEKING AWE, ADRENALINE, AND EXCITEMENT (AND MAYBE A LITTLE BIT OF CRAZY). UNIQUE EXPERIENCES, FOR EVERYONE.
SUN, SURF, SAMOA
COCONUTS BEACH CLUB RESORT & SPA
WWW.CBCSAMOA.COM

Dive and help preserve
the unexplored
Dive Munda is a multi-award winning SSI Instructor Training and Extended Range Centre in the Western
province of Solomon Islands committed to sustainable dive eco-tourism. Discover WWII history and
Kastom culture and scuba dive unexplored reefs, hard and soft coral, cuts, caverns and caves along with
pelagic life and shark action, all in one of the last wild frontiers left on planet ocean.
• Direct weekly flights from Brisbane to Munda with Solomon Airlines
Landline: +677 621 56
Cellphone: +677 789 6869
divemunda@dive-solomon-com
www.divemunda.com
Find us on Facebook, Instagram, Twitter
Agnes Gateway Hotel, Lambeti Station, Munda, New Georgia. Western Province, Solomon Islands

For more than 30 years our sleeping bags have set the
standard within climbing and mountaineering communities.
Carefully balancing our heritage with innovation, we’ve
learnt from the past whilst constantly thinking about
the future. Driven by a pursuit of excellence, quality
sits at the heart of our
manufacturing. We pride
ourselves on designing and
hand-crafting world-class
sleeping bags honed for
the mountains.
AVAILABLE NOW FROM RAB SPECIALIST STORES THROUGHOUT NZ. Auckland: Outfitters, Living Simply, Waikato: Trek & Travel, Equip Outdoors,
BOP: Whakatane Great Outdoors, Outdoorsman HQ, Taupo: Outdoor Attitude, Wellington: Dwights Outdoors, Motueka: Coppins Outdoors,
Kaikoura: Coastal Sports Christchurch: Complete Outdoors, Greymouth: Colls Sportsworld, Hokitika: Hokitika Cycles & Sportsworld, Franz Josef
Glacier: The Glacier Shop, Fox Glacier: The Hobnail Shop, Wanaka: MT Outdoors, Queenstown: Small Planet, Invercargill: Southern Adventure
Hunting and Fishing New Zealand stores nationwide. On-line: outdooraction.co.nz, gearshop.co.nz
Distributed by: Outfitters 0800 021732
www.outfitters.net.nz