KACHEN #16 (Autumn 2018) English edition

JONK CHEFS n
ARNAUD DEPARIS
Born in the Vosges, Arnaud Deparis started cooking as a child with his grandmothers and his
parents. His grandmothers' favourite recipes were stewed rabbit and "Kneff ", a dish reminiscent
of Luxembourgish "Kniddelen", served with croutons, garlic and a thick parsley dressing. Seasonal
produce is close to his heart and he loves to prepare all kinds of vegetables in different ways,
pumpkin in this case.
Arnaud studied his craft in Gérardmer and had honed his skills in various prestigious houses by the
age of 29. He has worked in Switzerland, at Le Pré Catelan in Paris (3 Michelin stars), La Forge de
Massard (Espaces Saveurs) in Sandweiler, and at Le Cube in Strassen.
He recently started cooking at Brasserie L' Avenue in Kirchberg.
Fried quail eggs, butternut textures and smoked duck magret
RECIPE ARNAUD DEPARIS PHOTOS ANNABELLE HATHERLY
Serves 4 1 hour + 90 minutes rest
• 80 g pumpkin seeds • 50 g butter • 250 ml orange juice
• 1 large lemon • 70 g flour • 70 g icing sugar
• 12 quail's eggs • 1 egg • Some panko breadcrumbs
• 1 kg butternut squash, unpeeled • Salt • Olive oil
• 100 g cream • 50 g sugar • 100 g vinegar
• 28 small slices of smoked duck magret
• Young leaves for decoration (Vene cress and Affila cress)
1 Grind 40 g of pumpkin seeds and pass through a sieve to
obtain a decorative powder. 2 For the pastry leaves, melt 20
g butter in a saucepan. Add the orange juice, the juice of
¾ of a lemon, 20 g flour and the icing sugar. Knead into a
dough and chill for 1 hour. 3 Spread thinly on a baking mat
and sprinkle with 40 g of pumpkin seeds. Bake at 200 °C
for 5 minutes. 4 Boil the quail eggs in boiling water for
80 seconds and then quench in cold water. Then
chill for 30 minutes so that they are easy to
peel afterwards. 5 Peel the pumpkin and
remove seeds. Cut 1/2 of it into rough
chunks, place in a pot of boiling water
and cook for 15-25 minutes. Mash
and then divide the mixture in half.
6 Add the cream to the first half of the
mash. Add to a syphon loaded with
two cartridges. Leave the second
half of the mash plain. 7 Cut ¼ of the
pumpkin into cubes of various sizes.
Blanch for 1 minute in boiling water, then
marinate with the remaining lemon juice. 8
Cut the remaining ¼ of the pumpkin into regular strips with a
peeler. Heat 150 ml of water with 50 g of sugar and vinegar.
When the mixture starts to boil, pour over the pumpkin strips
and let stand until the liquid has cooled. 9 Bread the quail
eggs English style: roll them in 50 g of flour, then in some
beaten egg and finally in the panko breadcrumbs. Deep fry
at 180 °C for 1 minute just before serving. 10 Decorate each
plate with pumpkin seed powder. Decorate the plates with
dots of pumpkin mash, roll up the pickled pumpkin strips and
use the siphon to fill them with pumpkin mousse. Arrange
3 fried quail eggs on each plate and decorate with pastry
leaves and young leaves. Serve with cooked and lemonmarinated
pumpkin cubes and 7 rolled-up slices of duck
magret per serving.
2018 / 3 | KACHEN | 87