Adv 223 Yumpu

N E W Z E A L A N D
ADVENTURE
WEST COAST
CANYONING
KAYAKING
RAFTING
BIKING
ISSUE 223
DEC 2020/JAN 2021
NZ $10.90 incl. GST
JUST ADD WATER

#223
All is not OK
I do not like crowds, really; crowds, queues,
dentists, you know, people in my personal
space. Last week we were in Queenstown,
I did not mind the one-meter rule at the
airport, nor having to wear the mask on the
plane, I enjoyed the space.
But as we flew into Queenstown the sky
was blue and the Remarks had a slight
dusting of snow. I looked down to see that
the carpark was full, a field of parked cars
(it was not until later did I realise that it
was rental cars and campervans parked
up for storage due to a lack of use). As we
exited the airport it was half empty, we went
to the rental car office, same again, and
when we drove to our hotel in the centre
of Queenstown we got a carpark directly
outside.
If you have ever driven into Milford Sound
then you will know the usual chaos as
tourist buses and cars all head for a glimpse
of this unique part of our country. Last week
we flew into a completely empty carpark;
there weren’t just a few buses, there were
none! It was like a ghost town. I overheard
someone say, ‘this is great with no crowds’,
and I get how you could feel like that. But no
crowds means no jobs, no income, no food
on the table, and it is not like in Milford you
can stop being a kayak guide and go and
work in Bunnings.
It will be like that throughout New Zealand;
any tourist town, any tour operator, any
corner dairy where people will stop to buy a
pie or a fluffy kiwi. It is important for us to be
so aware it’s not OK for everyone.
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I don’t know Queenstown well, I don’t
know the names of all the streets, but at
one stage I stood in the middle of the road
looking both ways and the only person I
saw was my own reflection in a closed store
window. (Admittedly it was a Monday but
you get my point.)
Most of the restaurants are still open but
many have nobody in them. A town that
survives on huge numbers of tourists is
struggling.
New Zealand has done amazingly well with
Covid, regardless if you feel it has all been
a bit draconian, we are safe, and people
are happy with that. The economy seems
ok, people generally seem ok. But it is not
OK. New Zealand's tourism industry
directly and indirectly employs
almost 400,000 people, or just over
14 per cent of the workforce and it
has all but gone. The loss in income
due to a lack of inbound tourism is
around 13 billion per year!
Now this is not a rant about opening
boarders and Covid being a con,
far from it. Personally, I think we
should stay safe; boarders should
remain secure till we are sure it is
safe. But I think it is important that
we accept that all is not OK for
everyone. There are hundreds of
thousands of people who have lost
their jobs or are now only working
part time. There are thousands upon
thousands of businesses that are
not making any income and in fact
are losing money just trying to stay
open. It is so important for us to
realise that some in our community
are not OK, because it is easy to
forget.
Exploring a bit of our own backyard with Canyon Explorers, Queenstown
Then what can we do about it?
It is as simple as buying local; buy from your
local store, stay off Ali Express, Wish and
Amazon. It might cost you ten dollars more
but that ten dollars might help keep a fellow
Kiwi in business. Visit local this summer,
don’t buy your kids another T-shirt from
some overseas website for Christmas, get
them an experience that will be the highlight
of their summer, a memory that will last and
will help sustain a business till we are back
to normal.
It is OK to admit that not everyone is OK,
and we may not be able to fix it, but we can
help. Steve Dickinson - Editor
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page08
Image compliments of Expedition Earth Image compliments of Tourism West Coast Image by Derek Cheng
Image by Steve Dickinson
page 16
page 42
page 84
02//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#223
#223
contents
08//Canyoning
What's not to love..
16//The Hollyford-Pyke Circuit
The holy grail of packrafting
22//Whatipu Caves and Pararaha
Eric Skilling takes us hiking in the Pararaha Valley
28//Climbing at altitude
How to climb your first 6000m peak
31//Northern Rocks
Finalists in the Westpac Business Awards
34//The Spring Challege
Tales from an epic event in Cambridge
36//The School of Mountaineering
Take a course with Aspiring Guides
40//Spirited Women
Get your adventure team ready and join the fun
42//Home Grown
The West Coast
56//The Old Snow Ghost Road
with Emily Miazga
62//Putting yourself out there
The evolution of Ellie-Jean Coffey
66//Adventure travel
• Vanuatu
84//Travelling the world
An unlucky beginning to a 350,000km journey
92//Vanlife
The vanlife hacks
plus
72. gear guides
83. subs
96. active adventure
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BEHIND THE COVER
ORIGINAL
This photo was an entry in the Red Bull Illume Image Quest 2019 Kronplatz,
Italy. Photographer, Mahallia Budds captured Cole Kraiss on location in
Camarines Sur, Philippines. We loved so much about this shot, the colour, the
angle, the reflection. Just a great shot to represent the water issue for 2020.
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CANYONING
TALES
Canyoning,
What’s to love?
absolutely Everything
Words and images by Lynne and Steve Dickinson
What is there to ‘love’ about being gift-wrapped in
multiple layers of 6mm thick neoprene, a life-vests,
a harness, a helmet, socks, and boots then being
herded up a dusty track for half an hour in the blazing
sun?
Absolutely everything!
We were bundled up like Michelin men, hiking up the
Routeburn track just out of Glenorchy, hardly able
to move due to the numerous layers of neoprene.
But all you could hear was the friendly chatter, and
“Sh#T it’s hot” from various members of our group.
We were getting to know one another whilst waddling
towards our canyoning destination. Alex and Mike,
from Canyon Explorers, led the trip and the rest
of our group included Gisela and Ferdinand from
Dunedin, Althea and Marian from France and Steve
and I. It was a first time canyoning for most of us and
although we had read up what to expect there was a
certain amount of mystery and trepidation to what the
day held.
Canyon Explorers are based in Queenstown and
have been exploring canyons in the region since
the late 1990’s. They have been running canyon
expeditions since 1998 and a Via Ferrara since 2003.
Canyoning can be a half day or a full day experience
and we were enjoying the start of the full day as we
ambled up the track.
I’m not sure what it is, maybe a mixture of everything;
the setting, the adrenaline, the effort, the cold, the
fear, the pushing of your own personal boundaries, or
being with a group of likeminded people, that makes
canyoning such a great ‘experience’.
Our day had begun at the Adventure Centre in
Queenstown, where we met the staff and were
transported out to the canyoning base to be kitted
up with our multiple layers of clothing. From here
we were driven along the breath-taking drive from
Queenstown to Glenorchy and beyond into Mt
Aspiring National Park and the start of the infamous
Routeburn track.
If you have never visited the Routeburn, that’s an
experience to savour. The scenery is stunning,
and although Queenstown itself boasts incredible
views everywhere you look, there is something truly
magical about this part of New Zealand. Despite
the fact that it was a bluebird day, waterfalls still
cascaded down the surrounding mountainsides. We
sat in the filtered lights of the beech trees with birds
calling to each other and sweat running down our
face in rivulets, and it was the perfect introduction to
what lay ahead.
It was hard to imagine that we would need so many
layers because the sun was beating down and there
was not a cloud in the sky. But before long we were
gingerly crossing the first river trying to stay as dry as
possible. As we tip-toed across the shallows trying
not to get too wet, Alex called us to look at something
in the river then proceeded to splash us with water.
At this point we realised just how cold the water was
and also that our guide was a bit of a trickster.
Our walk up to the start of the canyon took us
through the rainforest and although it was somewhat
restricting to move in the multiple layers, the place
and the setting were a huge distraction. After a bit of
a gentle climb up, we stopped on the “story log” for
a much needed rest. With steam rising off our glad
wrapped bodies, we sat and listened as Mike and
Alex told us a little about the rainforest. Mike told us
the legend of Mahuika and her fingernails of fire and
then Alex handed us each a dark looking leaf telling
us it was from the Horopito Plant, otherwise known
as “the bubble-gum plant”. She explained that if we
chewed it to release the flavours, we would taste the
bubble-gum. So like gullible school kids we took a
bite of the leaf and eagerly chewed. It did not take
long to realise that the Horopito Plant was actually
known as the “pepper plant” as we spat the leaf onto
the ground trying to get rid of the burn. Apparently, it
makes an excellent spicy addition to any meal!
By the time we reached the Bridal Veil Stream Bridge
we were hanging out to jump in the water, not only to
cool down our bodies but also our burning mouths!
Crossing the first river as Alex makes sure we all know just how cold the water is
08//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#223

Half Day & Full Day Canyoning Trips
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The team look on as Alex sends Althea down the first abseil
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39 Camp Street, Queenstown NZ
There is something about the rivers in this part of the country
that are quite different to those in the North Island. The rocks and
boulders are icy grey in colour and although today they sat like
granite sentinels in the turquoise waters, you can imagine the force
of the water crashing over them here when it’s raining, creating a
cauldron of white water. However, today all was calm and the water
smooth and inviting. A few words of wisdom from our guides, “if a
rock is grey you can stand on it in, if it is green or brown – do not.”
(wise words)
After a brief safety and how-too talk we were straight into it. Our
first abseil into the canyon was just below the bridge and this was
the last we would see of “civilisation” for the next few hours. We
dropped into the most pristine pool of water and were instantly lost
in the depths of the canyon.
The canyon changes your perception, you are focused on the water,
the walls and what is around you. The light is different, the sounds
is different, and it gives you a feeling of awe, simply put it just
makes you feel ‘good’.
To say the water was cold would be an understatement, I think the
average water temperature was around 10 degrees Celsius, which
I can assure you is chilly. We meandered down the river, abseiling
down sheer rocks and trying hard at first to keep our hands out of
the icy water. It did not take long before we were tasked with our
first rockslide and instructed to lay back and slide down the rock
face into the water below. Feet first, arms folded across our chests,
we dropped into the deep pool. Our heads submerged before
resurfacing, our breath taken away by the frigidness of the water. It
was an exhilarating experience, also known as a glacial facial.
The abseil before the big slide, with Mike at the top ensuring we are correctly
clipped in while Alex runs the safety line from below; these two make a great team
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 11

Not to be outdone by Mike, Marion goes backwards down the slide
as Alex and Althea watch on
Top: Ferdinand abseils down to the pool above the jump
Bottom: Jumping into the pool
Gasping for breath it was only a quick
swim to the rocks beyond where we
lay in the sunshine, smiles wide as we
rewarmed our bodies and watched the
next person sliding into the pool, now very
thankful for our layers or rubber!
Alex and Mike were an epic team, tying
and untying safety lines and abseiling
ropes, leaving as little a footprint as
possible on the pristine environment. One
abseil in particular, Mike helped us abseil
down into a turbulent pool known as the
cauldron. When we reached the pool we
had to release from the abseil line and
plunge into the water below and swim to
the edge of the waterfall where Alex was
waiting, firstly to stop you being washed
over the waterfall then to belay you down
into the next pool. We dropped one by
one, in a great display of teamwork and
met at the warming rocks at the bottom.
One of the highlights was the jumping
pool, where even though the water was
super cold, we slid down the waterfall into
the deep pool and then climbed back up
to jump back in time and time again. Mike
set the bar with his impressive back flip,
but I think Marion and Althea may have
taken the prize with their slides down the
waterfall headfirst! It was hard to wipe the
smiles off their faces.
As the canyon began to widen, sadly, it
was a signal our trip was coming to an
end. We clambered over a few more rocks
and back under the forest canopy to walk
the final few kilometres back to the car
park.
When we got back to the van there was
a flurry of wetsuits stripping and then we
lay in the afternoon sun eating a welldeserved
lunch, retelling tales of our
adventure. By the time we got back to
Queenstown it was past 5pm. We had
been on the go since 9am that morning
and I it was hard believe that 8 hours had
passed so quickly.
"One of the highlights
was the jumping pool,
where even though
the water was super
cold, we slid down the
waterfall into the deep
pool and then climbed
back up to jump back in
time and time again."
Mike, our guide set the bar high, backflipping into the jump pool
12//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#223 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 13

When you see the images canyoning
can seem a little intimidating; cascading
waterfalls, jumping off cliffs, submerged in icy
water, but it is without a doubt an experience
of a lifetime. That may and seem very cliched,
but it’s true. It really is a mixture of the place,
the adrenaline and fear, but I think that it
is being in a place few people will ever get
to see or experience that makes it utterly
‘unique’.
STRONG & LIGHT
Huge thanks to the team at Canyon
Explorers: www.canyonexplorers.co.nz
and Ella from Destination Queenstown
www.queenstownnz.nz
Gisela takes the plunge
During our stay in Queenstown we resided at the Dairy
Private Hotel, a unique boutique hotel in the centre
of Queenstown, an easy walk to all amenities and
wonderfully hosted by Maria. www.naumihotels.com
Recommended places to eat:
Flame www.flamegrill.co.nz
Boardwalk www.boardwalkqueenstown.nz
The Boatshed Café & Bistro
www.boatshedqueenstown.co.nz
Other things to do:
Wine tasting with Three Miners at the Hilton
www.threeminers.com
Wine tasting with Emily from Gibbston Valley Winery
www.gibbstonvalley.com
Bike the Queenstown Trail with Around the Basin
www.aroundthebasin.co.nz
Helicopter tour with The Helicopter Line
www.helicopter.co.nz
It was hard to wipe the smiles off Marion and Althea's faces
For a full list of activities visit Destination Queenstown
www.queenstownnz.co.nz
R A V E N 3 G T X
The stoke is obvious! L-R: Lynne, Althea, Marion, Gisela, Ferdinand and Steve - Image compliments of Canyon Explorers
Designed to make light work of tough alpine terrain in variable conditions
b obo.co.nz/salewa
14//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#223

RAFTING
TALES
The holy grail
of packrafting
the Hollyford-Pyke circuit
By Derek Cheng
The pack-raft wasn’t built for two.
It was sturdy, exceedingly buoyant, and had
lots of room - for one person. But a slit had
been cut in Eva’s raft after she’d floated down a
section of river with hidden knives just under the
surface.
With only a short stretch to the next hut, she
simply jumped onto the front of my raft, the most
shatterproof of the bunch.
There was blessed little drama for a while. Eva
sat facing upstream, gazing at the serenity of
Fiordland as I navigated the river. It didn’t need
much navigating beyond avoiding logjams, a
consequence of the extreme weather that has
shaped the most rugged part of New Zealand.
Then, the hairpin rapid. Just beyond it was
a tree so gargantuan it could be classified
as a unique species all its own. It was halfsubmerged
and on its side, creating a maze of
spindly branches just above the surface.
I had naively come to believe in my abilities to
control the raft through sheer willpower. This
didn’t work very well. We pretty much drifted
straight into the massive wooden maw.
The end of one of the spindles took aim at my
eye, forcing me to drop the paddle and intercept
it. The maze immediately closed in, trapping us,
as the rapid pinned the paddle to the side of the
raft. Attempts to rescue it were futile against the
might of a huge volume of water travelling at
pace.
It was more than slightly unnerving to be
subjected to such powerful forces, yet remain
stationary. With alarm bells ringing ever-louder,
I joined Eva in grabbing any part of the tree we
could to disrupt the rapid’s grip. Somehow, the
raft came free. As it did, the paddle - pointing
skywards as if levitating - dropped benevolently
into my lap, as if rewarding our efforts.
"Are you guys alright?" Fellow rafters Sam and
Jess had started paddling towards us to help.
We were fine. No idea how.
"The main rafting
challenges of the Hollyford
River are navigating the
logjams and occasional
class II rapids."
16//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#223

Jessica Thorn contemplates the Fiordland scenery at the portage point just before the Little Homer rapids.
Clockwise from top left: Our sextet at Martin's Bay Hut, rafts and rafting accessories hoisted on our backs, ready for the first hiking section;
A series of dry river beds led us inland to the south-flowing Pyke River; Blue skies over the Tasman Sea offer a stark contrast to an overcast
estuary at Martin's Bay, where the Hollyford River meets the West Coast.
So it was with Fiordland’s waterways
during our six-day pack-rafting trip down
the Hollyford River to the Tasman Sea, up
the West Coast, and back inland to the
Pyke River. Frequently, the raft seemed
to do exactly what you wanted, chicaning
around corners with minimal effort. Other
times, the forces of nature had other ideas
- with consequences of completely random
severity.
Sometimes you got cold and wet.
Sometimes you ripped a hole in your raft.
Sometimes a tenuous situation arose where
you might have lost a paddle. Or an eyeball.
Indestructible, Unbreakable, Leaky and
Sinky
The Hollyford-Pyke is hyped as the Holy
Grail of New Zealand pack-rafting, an
adventure along rivers, lakes and estuaries,
and through lush beech forests on the edge
of the glacially-carved Darran Mountains.
The upper Hollyford is known for its
difficulties, but the lower section from the
road end is a much tamer affair. The only
real hazards, beyond the occasional class II
rapid, are the logjams.
But you’re only as good as your gear. We
had rented and borrowed four rafts - two
singles, two doubles. The singles were
shiny and new, and quickly became known
as Indestructible and Unbreakable. The
doubles, within minutes of putting them into
the water, became known as Leaky and
Sinky.
I had insisted on joining this group of
Wellington-based misfits despite barely
knowing any of them, though that soon
changed in the week ahead. There was
Jess, whose humble nature made her a
reluctant leader but who was clearly the
most prepared. She had the topo maps, the
daily itinerary including contingency plans,
extra clothing and accessories - which,
predictably, every one of us would use at
some point - and endless treats including a
chocolate biscuit-birthday cake concoction.
There was Wim, whose choice to wear
cotton on day one - leaving him shivering
endlessly - belied his adventurous spirit;
Claudine, who revelled in a pathological
need to raft through the most turbulent
part of each rapid; Eva, who led the group
in dance aerobics whenever anyone was
feeling cold; and Sam, who felt compelled
to light a fire each evening and keep
it raging, no matter how sauna-like it
became.
It was a typically moody Fiordland
afternoon when we pulled up to the start
of the Hollyford Track, the entry point to
the river. We happened to run into friends
finishing their own Hollyford-Pyke trip. They
reported exemplary weather, though strong
headwinds on Lake McKerrow had forced
them to portage.
It was thrilling to finally push the rafts
into the river. We accepted her delightful
cadence, coasting for a couple of hours
under cloud-cloaked mountains before
reaching the Hidden Falls stream
confluence. Here, we parked our rafts and
dragged our supplies across a grassy flat to
the fabulously warm and dry Hidden Falls
Hut.
Curry was the perfect dinner, warming
our inner-most frigidities, though it was
somewhat hilarious at this point to discover
that curry was on the dinner menu for all
but one of days ahead. Some in the group
were also more enthusiastic than others
to learn that the predominant dessert was
dark chocolate.
A very fortunate chance stop
By morning, we had already fine-tuned
our systems to load the rafts and be in the
water with minimal sandfly bites. It wasn't
long before we came to the river boulders
that signalled the Little Homer class III+
rapids, where we portaged the rafts along a
muddy road.
This day was my first with Leaky. Its
questionable composition, along with
Claudine's pathological affliction, required
one of us to constantly bail water while the
other carefully leaned over the back of the
raft, mouth to valve, to re-inflate it.
The sky was grey and the air was heavy
with the kind of stillness that always seems
to precede a downpour. After a relatively
cruisy 10 km of river, we reached the edge
of Lake McKerrow and had to make a
call. Press on and we might get drenched.
Seek refuge at McKerrow Island Hut and
tomorrow will be more demanding.
The key factor was the lack of wind,
which had forced our friends to walk the
lakeshore rather than paddle across. As we
pressed on, the chief appeal of this mode
of transport became clear. Most of a tramp
is spent under a forest canopy, but cruising
the water allows you to behold all the faces
of the environment: the snow-capped
mountains, the verdant and vertiginous
valleys, the rushing rapids and stillness
of the lakes, the subtle shades of volatile
skies.
Thankfully, afternoon headwinds never
eventuated, but it was a lengthy 25 km
across the lake and many hopeful glances
in search of a hut before we reached a
pebble beach. Leaky needed a break. We
all did.
It was serendipitous timing. Not far from
where we pulled up, one of our crew
spotted a single, redemptive orange marker
which led to a trail up to Hokuri Hut.
This set in motion a pattern we repeated
every evening: secure the rafts, drag our
soaked, soggy selves to the hut, execute
gear explosion, strip naked and put on dry
clothes, hang items to dry, sit by the fire, eat
curry followed by dark chocolate, collapse
into sleeping bag.
The open sea – liberating, untameable,
immense
Day three was my turn in Sinky. Leaky, at
least, had enough room for two people to sit
comfortably. Sinky seemed like it was built
for one and a half people, or two people
who didn’t have any legs.
It was another misty morning as we paddled
the rest of the lake towards the coast.
Jess took advantage of the conditions to
surreptitiously tie Unbreakable to the back
of Sinky for a cunning wee tow. She claims
to have done this openly, but this remains
disputed.
We paddled by the remnants of Jamestown,
a lakeside settlement from the 1870s that’s
now little more than apple trees and rose
bushes. It had aspired to be a colonial
farming settlement, connecting Otago gold
to a shipping port on the coast, and then
on to Australia. But the estuary leading to
the coast is shallow and sandy, and the
land for Jamestown is the same unforgiving
terrain that Fiordland is renowned for. It
would have been easier to farm in cement,
and the first settlers’ boat ran aground in
the estuary. Jamestown was a ghost town
within a decade.
The dreariness of the failure of Jamestown
lifted as we approached Martin's Bay.
The open sea – liberating, untameable,
immense. We hurriedly de-rafted and ran
along the beach, launching ourselves
joyously from small precipices as if we'd
never experienced the vastness of the
West Coast before.
18//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#223 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 19

PHIL’S SEA KAYAK
Stewart Island
The mists lifted by the time we'd finished
a leisurely lunch at the hut. With sunshine
on our backs, we packed up our rafts
and hiked a seldom-used track past a
coastal seal colony. It then turned inland,
featuring leg-swallowing mud-holes and
dense flax bushes that seemed designed
to catch any paddle strapped to the
outside of any pack.
We eventually re-emerged on the coast
and happily ambled to the aptly-named
Big Bay. The infinity of the sky matched
the expansive landscape: ocean-frolicking
dolphins; oystercatchers hopping along
streams; a strip of beach dividing West
Coast waves from wind-swept shrubs and
distant mountaintops. It was almost too
much to take in.
At the edge of the bay, we merrily dived
into the ocean as we washed all of our kit
before heading to the luxuriously empty
Big Bay Hut. Not even the sandflies could
dampen spirits.
The hard hiking was now behind us. The
next morning, a pleasant 15 km hike
along a 4WD track and then a series of
river beds led us to the Pyke River. Back
in the water, we were now seasoned
rafters, easily capable of pirate antics
such as raft-ramming or leaping from
one boat to another. Mother Nature had
practically invited such tomfoolery by
20//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#223
Lake McKerrow on a typically majestic, moody Fiordland day
bestowing upon us more sunshine.
This section of river was especially
glorious, with several deep pools of
turquoise water. A tail-wind picked up
later, launching us across Lake Wilmot
and inviting the use of any sheet-like
material for a spinnaker effect.
Perhaps I let my guard down in the wake
of these antics. Not long afterwards,
Indestructible was found to be less than
impervious to sharp objects under the
river surface. Eva and I then had our close
encounter with the gargantuan tree maw.
It was with some relief that we later landed
at the pebble beach just below Olivine
Hut. The customary gear explosion, strip
session and fire-starting ensued.
This fire was particularly important, given
the need for the driest possible conditions
to patch up Indestructible. It was also
New Year's Eve, and some obligatory
celebration - via single malt whiskey - was
in order, but we were still asleep by 10pm.
The inevitable storm
A familiar scene greeted us the following
morning: clag. Wispy threads of mist
clung to forest edges with inimitable
Fiordland charm. Our progress had been
quicker than anticipated, which came in
handy today. It was a short distance to
cross Lake Alabaster, but the skies were
looking inauspicious.
No sooner had we arrived at the lakeside
hut did the inevitable downpour unleash
- relentless, thunderous, the kind that
makes you want to strip and jump in the
lake, which we duly did.
We spent the rest of the storm in the
comfort of the hut. Some hikers we met at
Olivine Hut the previous evening arrived
later with tales of wading through mud so
deep that one of them had been stripped
of his shorts. We felt very appreciative of
our rafts.
The storm had abated by the morning.
There were only a few kilometres of the
Pyke left before being swallowed up by
the coast-bound Hollyford River. Instead
of a final, brief fling with the rafts, we
tramped 20 km to the start of the trail
with lightness in our steps as well as our
packs.
The track through beech forest was
what a Fiordland trip usually looked like,
offering occasional glimpses of the river
or a waterfall. It's not to be scoffed at. But
the rafting had left us enlightened, gifting
us stronger friendships, added resilience,
and a novel way to see more of the everchanging,
magical faces of Fiordland.
Explore the pristine clear
waters of Stewart Island
with its amazing marine
life, bays and sandy
beaches.
Experience paddling paradise!
Stroll golden sandy beaches and take in the rich cultural history.
Full/half day/2 1/2 hour and sunset excursions available.
Registered owner/guide; passionate sea kayaker.
Kayak rental available (some conditions apply).
PHIL@ SEAKAYAKSTEWARTISLAND.NZ | 027 4442323
www.seakayakstewartisland.nz

HIKING
TALES
Whatipu Caves &
Pararaha Valley
By Erik Skilling
The West Coast at Whatipu is such a unique place –
the constant roar of Southern Ocean swells crashing
onto a black-sand coast, brooded over by crumbling
cliff faces. No maiden-hair ferns or daphne bushes
here, this is a place of hardier nikau, harekeke flax
and cabbage trees and as we would find out, almost
impenetrable stands of kanuka, gorse and blackberry.
We would also discover this place was being enjoyed
by some very unwelcome exotic mammals.
If the West Coast were a character, at times it would be
a beautiful Polynesian maiden with jet-black hair and
shining dark brown eyes but lose respect and it quickly
transforms into a Siren with dire consequences. It does
not care what your intentions are – it sets the rules.
Respect it and you will be amazed by its beauty.
So, in early spring with the promise a few warm days,
light northerlies and a mid-day low tide we set off for
Whatipu at the mouth of the Manukau Harbour. The
Gibbons and Zion tracks along the cliff tops were still
closed and a trip along the beach did not really appeal,
so our intention was to tramp to Karekare along the
base of the cliffs about a kilometre inland from the
coast. Our goal was to make it to Karekare Point by the
midday low tide. Easy.
After arriving a little later than expected, we didn’t
think too much about what would turn out to be a
painful mistake - we hadn’t packed full gaiters. We
set off in a bit of a hurry and as so often happens
we unintentionally took the short path to the beach,
emerged from the low scrub, stopped and stared,
amazed by the view in front of us.
Rugged Paratutai Island dominated the skyline to
our left, Te-Toka-Tapu-a-Kupe (nine pin rock) in the
distance ahead of us. A gentle offshore breeze was
holding up some quite small, very un-West-Coast
looking surf, but in the far distance we could see the
swells breaking on the infamous Manukau Bar. The
vastness was stunning.
We felt drawn to Paratutai Island and found the
battered remains of the 1880’s wharf and jetty, with a
view to the deceptively calm waters of Wonga Wonga
Bay. After scrambling up the foothills of Wing Head
we were rewarded with 270-degree vista. From Cutter
Rock and Pararaha Valley to the north-west, South
across the black sands of the bay to the Manukau
Bar and East across the Manukau Harbour to West
Auckland, all looking glorious in the spring sunshine.
22//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#223 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 23

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"Even with several metres
of sand now filling the
floor of the cave, it must
be one of the largest I have
ever seen in New Zealand,
certainly one of the most
easily accessible."
Harekeke flax, ti kouka cabbage trees, kanuka and
gorse covered the undulating valley floor
The entrance to Whatipu Caves
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Whatipu is the name of the Taniwha that
once resided here which only adds the aura
of the place. This was far too spectacular
to leave in a hurry and with the weather
forecast looking even better for tomorrow,
we chose to change plans so we could
spend some more time here. We would
camp the night at the designated campsite
at the Caves and continue onto Karekare
tomorrow. It would turn out to be an even
better decision than we realised.
After enjoying an early lunch on Wing Head,
we sat sipping hot coffee and gazing out
at the priceless view. It was well over an
hour later before we made our way onto the
Caves Trail, an easy hour or so walk along a
well-worn path.
Although I knew of the existence of the
caves, I had no idea how many and how
large they were. The first cave quickly drops
to less than two metres high and then we
had to leave packs, turn on torches and
scramble a few metres into the darkness.
The other caves just get bigger and more
spectacular as you head north. To give an
idea of scale the aptly named Giant Cave is
so large that the locals held formal dances
back in the late 19th Century. Even with
several metres of sand now filling the floor of
the cave, it must be one of the largest I have
ever seen in New Zealand, certainly one of
the most easily accessible. Children would
love this place so plan for 2 to 3 hours. Bring
along cycling helmets. And torches.
Much later that afternoon we set up camp
and climbed a short track and settled down
under some Pohutukawas and enjoyed a
dinner of Go Native butter chicken and mash.
Below us a black swan and Pukeko were
feeding in a small pond in front of Windy
Point. Thick cloud on the horizon spoiled
the sunset a bit, but we eventually settled
in for the night to the sound of a couple of
Moreporks trying to outdo each other. A great
way to finish a memorable day.
Next day was as promised, bright and clear
with almost no breeze. The downside was a
dew fall that was wet enough to have been a
decent rainfall.
I had been warned of a “tricky little climb” at
Windy Point, the entrance to the Pararaha
Valley. As it would turn out “tricky little climb”
was a typically understated kiwi description
- standing on rocks set in shin high water,
the climb was only just over 2 metres high,
but very vertical with cracks that were not
tramping-boot-friendly. For my partner
anyway. My Keen Targhee III handled them
easily – well ok, maybe not entirely easy but
certainly a lot easier than it looked.
Once we had clambered over the ledge the
scene before us was mind blowing. Almost
as if we’d stepped into some secret valley.
The well-worn track that had led to the caves
was now covered in knee-high kikuyu grass
and would soon disappear altogether. Huge
rocks and boulders lay just below the cliff
next to us. The cliff itself was bare, crumbling
rock that had been dealt to by centuries
of wind and rain. Further north the lower
reaches of the cliffs were thickly covered in
pohutukawa and nikau. Ahead harekeke flax,
ti kouka cabbage trees, kanuka and gorse
covered the undulating valley floor.
We could still hear the distant roaring of the
Tasman Sea but here in the valley there was
no wind, making the stillness eerie. Very
eerie. It was easy to imagine Jeff Goldblum
and Sam Neill desperately stumbling across
thick matted kikuyu ahead of us, an angry
T-Rex in tow.

Inserts: Map of our walk, my trusty Keen boots, meal preparation / Main: A beautiful spot to camp out for the night
"We eventually settled in for the night to the sound of a couple
of Moreporks trying to outdo each other... We could still hear
the distant roaring of the Tasman Sea but here in the valley
there was no wind, making the stillness eerie."
This is another reason why we go
tramping. Five centuries ago, this
valley was used by Te Kawerau a
Maki people to grow kumera which
were stored in pits protected by the
steep faces of hills to the south of
Whatipu. Right now, it felt like we had
stepped into something only recently
discovered. I imagined how even
more magnificent it would have looked
before the logging of the massive
Totara, Kauri and Rimu began in
1880’s.
Although the thick kikuyu made it
reasonably heavy going, there were
numerous faint tracks, and it was clear
from the number of baits set that a few
people made the trip here. At the time
I didn’t really think too much about
the several tracks that seemed to be
disappearing into thickets of kanuka.
Every small rise we walked over led
to a different scene and we soon
reached the large pond fed by the
Taranaki Stream. The pond itself was
glassy calm, with a couple of paradise
shelducks calmly moving to the other
side as we approached. It looked so
amazingly peaceful.
It was becoming difficult to find a single
track that headed north. They all crisscrossed
the thickly matted kikuyu and
we often found ourselves in bog if we
ventured too far from the base of the
cliffs. After having to backtrack several
times around clumps of gorse or
kanuka and climbing over pohutukawa
branches at the base of the cliffs, we
eventually reached Ohaka Head. Then
it became difficult. The inland route
was very steep and getting steeper the
further we north we ventured. Below
the bluff was a waist high pond with a
floor of thick mud. If we were going to
make it to Karekare in time we had to
head to the beach, over a kilometre
away.
We backtracked yet again until we
seemed to be clear of most of the
bogs, stopped for a snack and quick
coffee (shout-out to those Jet Boil
folk) and headed out across the
marshlands.
It was then that I came across a large
patch of flattened grass and it became
clear who was making the many tracks
through the grass and into thickets. I
am no highly experienced pig-hunter
but is obvious that many trotting swine
have free reign in this place.
It was slow, heavy going as we
would our way around thick kanuka
and impenetrable clumps of gorse.
Knee-high grass was interlaced with
blackberry - how I missed those full
gaiters. It was well over an hour later
before we emerged scratched, bruised,
hot and hungry onto the black sand of
the beach.
We knew we had run out of time. Time
to show that respect and head home.
Even so, we were in high spirits as we
headed back along the beach to a night
at the Whatipu Lodge camping ground,
a fresh cold shower, followed by some
spaghetti bolognaise (love those Go
Native chefs) and a well-deserved
glass or two of red wine.
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picking up the pace hut-to-hut, the AirZone Trek helps you keep
your cool.
#MOVEYOURWORLD
26//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#223

How to climb your first
6000 metre peak
By Suze Kelly, General Manager, Adventure Consultants
Climbing at high altitude is not on
everyone’s bucket list but it is a
very rewarding activity and physical
endurance achievement. There’s
something about being up high above
5000m, the air seems thinner, you can
somehow see further and that feeling
of being ‘on the edge’ is palpable.
Plus climbing above 6000m always
involves travel to the Himalaya chain of
mountains in Asia or the Andes in South
America so you have an adventure,
climbing and travel to explore a new
culture and land all rolled into one
journey. What could be more perfect!
Without being able to get to any of
these exotic destinations at present,
the best thing you can do is put the
time into preparing and training for your
future travel and high altitude climbing.
In New Zealand we are blessed with
Himalayan-like mountains, renowned
for their steepness, ruggedness and
glaciation but without the debilitating
breath sapping effects of high altitude
to deal with. When Kiwis go to climb at
high altitude overseas, they often do
very well as they have had such a good
base to train from.
A great place to start is to tackle some
of the Department of Conservation
Great Walks, carrying all your own
gear and generally getting yourself
what we call ‘pack fit’. Then, with some
experience in longer day walks there
are off trail or more rugged options
for routes to explore and access our
amazing network of backcountry huts.
Thus, doing what we call ‘mileage’ with
classic Kiwi tramping as a base for all
that is to come (why stop there!).
All the tramping that’s straightforward
in New Zealand is generally below
the snow line, so to gain experience
for skills that you need to safely move
around on snow, ice, rock and glaciers,
the wise choice is to then sign on to
a mountaineering course operated by
professional mountain guides. With
everything from 1 day to 12-day options
it’s more about time commitment than
anything as the cost is similar to what
you would spend on an overseas travel
holiday.
On a mountaineering course you start
with the basics and your guides ensure
you are confident with snowcraft and
rope skills applicable to alpine climbing,
before moving on to glacier travel and
self-rescue, navigation, route finding
and weather analysis. Along the way
you learn more about pacing, self-care,
planning and preparation and all the
while getting to know your gear, what
works and what doesn’t. Plus, you even
climb a mountain or two! Courses are
usually based in Westland or Aoraki Mt
Cook National Parks and your first peak
might be Hochstetter Dome at the head
of the Tasman Glacier or Aurora Peak
above Centennial Hut.
At the end of a mountaineering course,
the sense of accomplishment you feel
with your new-found alpine climbing
skills never leaves you. The investment
of time and learning is everything you
need to set you up for next steps in
the exciting world of mountaineering,
which might be climbing a substantial
New Zealand peak such as Mt Aspiring,
3,033m. An alpine start (3.00am) is
required on such a big climb and you
are well into the climb once dawn
arrives along with experiencing one
of your first alpine sunrises, let alone
the feeling of satisfaction of reaching
the summit and then a descent back
to the hut for that welcome cup of tea
and overall feeling of tiredness and
satisfaction that a big day out in the hills
provides.
How does all this matter for climbing
Island Peak 6,189m in Nepal, or
Aconcagua 6,962m in Argentina, both
great choices for a 6000m peak? Aren’t
these called non-technical ascents?
The thing with climbing at high altitude
is that it requires immense energy just
to put one foot in front of the other, due
to the lack of oxygen reaching your
muscles, so the climbing you tackle
needs to be straightforward. Fixed lines
are used for safety and the climbing is
certainly not as technical, but with your
experience gained in New Zealand on
a mountaineering course, everything
feels second nature and you can focus
on the altitude hurdle. A summit day on
Island Peak typically takes 12-15 hours,
since you start climbing in the dark
at midnight, and return back to Base
camp by mid-afternoon. Good fitness
and endurance is imperative but just as
important is the ability to move efficiently
whilst encased in mountaineering
gear, and any new challenges can be
overcome, as you will have done all this
before, albeit at lower altitudes in New
Zealand.
So whilst we might have a long time to
wait until we can explore the greater
ranges of the world again, you can
use this precious time to upskill and
experience the best that the Southern
Alps has to offer. We are so lucky
to have this training ground in our
backyard here, and it’s the perfect place
to hone your skills and fitness and put in
the preparation time required to build up
to climbing a 6000m peak.
Adventure Consultants is a mountain guiding outfitter based in Wanaka, New Zealand operating
mountaineering courses, guided ascents and trekking journeys in New Zealand, and world-wide.
28//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#223

NORTHERN ROCKS
FINALIST, WESTPAC BUSINESS AWARDS
BEST EMERGING BUSINESS CATEGORY
Rebecca Hounsell, Boulder Bash finals 2019
Photo by Lee Howell
By Sarah Hay: Partner, Northern Rocks
"When you first walk into Northern Rocks,
you notice how sunlit and colourful the
space is, which I’ve come to realise is
really a great metaphor for the community
there, too. I’ve been involved in sports
in some capacity my whole life, and I’ve
never been part of a community quite
like Northern Rocks. There’s friendliness
towards newcomers I’ve never
encountered and a willingness to help, to
encourage people to try something again
and again.
As one of Northern Rocks’ resident yoga
and mobility instructors, I’m privy to the
experiences of so many climbers who
share with me their similar love of the
climbing and the community. Women
especially have recounted to me how
comfortable they feel in a space they
assumed would be male-dominated and
unwelcoming, like most sports.
Some of this can be attributed to
bouldering, sure - not having to belay
anyone really allows you to use your
downtime to chat to new people, in my
case usually trying to acquire beta - and
failing over and over while projecting is
humbling for even the most experienced
climbers, so pretension doesn’t seem
to last long. But I think most of it has to
do with the space Sarah and John have
created, and their encouragement of
friendliness, excellence and the pursuit of
‘sends’." Kate Montgomery
Wow. What a year. What a.. almost two
years! This year, Northern Rocks were
fortunate enough to be nominated for
the Westpac & Chamber of Commerce
Business Awards and chosen as a finalist
in the category Best Emerging Business.
With 744 entries over seven categories,
this achievement is incredibly special to
me, to my business partner John, to our
staff and community. We are so proud to
have this recognition for the hard work
and passion we continue to put into
Northern Rocks. Thank you to all those
who have supported us, climbed with
us, and helped build our ever growing,
colourful, loyal, welcoming, vibrant
community!
Bouldering has become a fitness
alternative, a staple for many people in
their weekly routine. We are coaching
total beginners right through to training
elite athletes, including those who may
in the future wish to qualify for world
championships, even the Olympics.
A highlight has been developing our youth
programs, seeing our young people thrive
in the boulder gym and hearing about
how the skills learnt in bouldering transfer
to greater self-confidence and confidence
at school, and how they have found their
passion in this sport. We are super proud
of our youth members, Rebecca Hounsell,
Grace Hansen, Finlay Cate and Monique
Gray who recently made the Climbing
New Zealand Youth Development Squad,
and to all the youth who participated at
the national championships.
"Climbing is everything to me! When I’m
on the wall I forget everything around
me, and I feel free. Since Northern
Rocks opened, I’ve gone almost every
single week. I don’t mind where I climb
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 31

Riley Howell, community support for a campus challenge! - Photo by Lee Howell
Sarah Hay coaching youth at Northern Rocks - Photo by Lee Howell
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WILDWIRE.CO.NZ
but Northern Rocks feels like home to
me. Since Northern Rocks opened, I feel
like I have found my place in the world
because climbing is my passion. All the
coaches are amazing there, they have
helped me improve so much over the past
few years. They also train and teach us
how to prepare for competitions. I have
met friends at the Boulder Bashes and
in the classes - it’s a lot of fun going to
competitions together and on outdoor
climbing trips. I don’t know what I’d do
without Northern Rocks!" Grace Hansen,
12 years
Our Boulder Bash social competitions
have become a fantastic community event
that is looked forward to by staff and
climbers alike. We held two in 2019, with
the second one focusing on raising money
for the NZ Cancer Society. Unfortunately,
our 2020 Boulder Bash events have had to
be postponed due to covid19, but we are
looking forward to kicking off the new year
with our overdue Birthday Boulder Bash
2021 (fingers crossed).
The NZAC (NIBS) National Indoor Boulder
Series is one of the highlights of the year,
and we were fortunate enough to hold
one in both 2019 and 2020. Both the
Boulder Bash and NIBS events are open
to all abilities, with young kids, beginner
and intermediate climbers right through to
some of the top advanced climbers in New
Zealand.
We hosted the Climbing New Zealand
National Open Boulder Championships in
2019 and look forward to hosting it again
February 2021 – so get training! We were
lucky to have Stream Shop live streaming
the event as part of the newly established
Sky Sport Next initiative, showcasing
youth in sport. It is fantastic to be able to
offer elite competition and training facilities
like these events, in addition to community
sport for families and young people.
The effects of Covid19 of course have
been difficult, with two full closures this
year during level three and four. The full
effects of the pandemic and subsequent
closures continue to be felt for months
after we reopened; however, many
have returned to the gym with relief as
it is ‘my zen place’ according to one
member. Our focus is to continue growing
our community and providing positive
opportunities for those around us.
"I never knew how much I needed
Northern Rocks until it came into my life.
The impact bouldering has had on me
has been unexpected and profound. This
place, this community... it's my home.
When I started here, other climbers were
so welcoming that I quickly felt at ease
and was able to learn so much, both
about climbing and myself. Now, having
worked here for the past year, I realise
how lucky I am to be part of a great
team and I am eternally grateful for the
experience." Henry Burgess
We recently held a fundraiser event for
Kenzie’s Gift, a charity care for youth
and families facing substantial grief or
loss. Rebecca Hounsell is a member at
Northern Rocks and has been climbing
since she was 4 years old. She's now
14yrs, but when she was 7 years old she
lost her mum to Leukaemia. Kenzie’s Gift
were there throughout her Mum’s illness
and when she passed away. Collectively
we have raised over $14,000 so far and
special thanks to Lee Howell for the video
and photography work for the event and
exhibition.
"Climbing gives me an opportunity to be
free; free from worry, free from doubt
and freedom from the judgement from
other people. By climbing outdoors and in
facilities like Northern Rocks I am given
time to be myself, do what I love and grow
as a climber." Rebecca Hounsell.
Kate and I have recently launched ‘Bo(u)
lder Women’, a supportive group for
women who love to boulder or want
to give it a go! We realised there are
a number of women who may feel too
intimidated to try bouldering or be in the
gym on their own. We wanted to initiate
a group to show women that bouldering
is gender equal and open to all abilities,
help them with ‘beta’ or how to solve the
boulder problems with technique and
movement advice, and give girls and
women opportunity to feel comfortable in
the gym.
Our next meet up is December 7th
6:30pm – 8pm, it’s free and just regular
entry applies. Come along and join us!
Other upcoming events:
• Christmas Carnival Friday 4th
December: celebrate the end of
the year with us! There will be
live music, silks performance,
challenges, a pizza oven (bring your
own ingredients, we’ll bake it!), and
a secret Santa (bring a $10 pressie
and we’ll swap gifts!)
• Boulder technique workshops and
regular yoga classes: check out the
website or give us a call 09 278 2363
• Climbing New Zealand National
Open Boulder Champs: February 7th
2021
• Youth Climbing Classes 2021: join
our climbing teams! See website or
email for info
So if you haven’t given bouldering a go
yet – come on down! You’ll get a chance
to meet your fitness goals, make new
friends, socialise and enjoy this amazing
community sport. Follow us on social
media to get all the updates!
FB & Insta @northernrocks.climbing
www.northernrocks.co.nz
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 33

Team "Slow down Cath" (Megan Bathgate, Catherine Wilson, Emma Stray)
during the paddle section of the 6hr race
the spring challenge
By Vicki Knell
Held in picturesque Cambridge alongside
the mighty Waikato River, the venue for
this year’s Spring Challenge made for a
spectacular setting for the event. On Friday
evening the teams from all over the North
Island gathered at the Sir Don Rowlands
Centre on the banks of Lake Karapiro for
race briefing and a warm up challenge.
It is during this pre-race time that the
atmosphere of nervous tension, friendly
banter and connecting with other teams
happens. One of the disciplines included this
year was the paddling of 3 person inflatable
self-bailing kayaks so an opportunity to have
a little practise was able to be done on the
Friday afternoon.
On Saturday with a race start of 12 pm for
the 3 hour race teams the Mis-Adventure
team were able to have a leisurely start to
the day. We had found a very cute Air BnB
farm cottage with extraordinary views out
over the Waikato countryside to stay in for
the weekend and fortunately for everyone the
weather gods had put on a stunning day.
While support crew are not essential for
this event we had support in the form of an
injured team member – a ski injury put paid
to my racing but did mean that I was able to
take on the support crew role with gusto.
The race started with the kayak section
from the Findlay Park Adventure Camp. It
seems the most difficult part for teams was
keeping the kayak heading in the direction
they wanted. There was certainly lots of
entertainment provided for the support crews
and spectators at the beginning of the 3 hour
race as teams battled to keep out of each
other’s way and to get going on a reasonably
straight trajectory. With great teamwork and
steering from the back the Mis-Adventure
team shot off really strongly and managed to
keep out of the traffic of other less controlled
craft, coming off the water in a creditable 3rd
place of the 50 odd teams competing, but
alas it was all downhill or should we say uphill
from here.
The first mountain bike section started with
a steep hill climb up out of Findlay Park
and then followed 8kms of undulating road
to farmland where there was the transition
for the orienteering section. Although only
covering 3 or 4 kms the orienteering is done
on foot and is a good test of the teams map
reading, problem solving and communication
skills – walking/running over uneven farmland
with some steep sections all the while looking
for the elusive checkpoints provides a
challenge for tired team members. Being able
to interpret and make accurate observations
of landmarks is crucial at this point.
By this time of the day the spring weather
was really heating up and after a quick
transition back onto the bikes the team were
off for the longer 18km mountain bike ride
which would take them south along the west
side of the Waikato River to cross the Arapuni
Swingbridge and then back north along the
beautiful Waikato River cycle trail up to a
last paddle back across to the Findlay Park
Adventure Camp and race finish.
The atmosphere at race finish was carnival
like. Teams from the 6 and 9 hour races were
finishing alongside teams from the 3 hour
race. To be clear though the 3, 6 and 9 hour
events take longer than their namesakes.
This year the 9 hour event was won by
Tron Express an open team who won with
a finishing time of 10:46:29 – and the final
team who were veterans came in with a time
of 21:51:14 – total respect for these amazing
ladies! The 6 hour event winners were
also an open team with a time of 7:24:49
– and the final team of this huge field of 64
teams were a super vet team with a time of
17:42:55 – an amazing show of resilience
and determination.
The 3 hour event winners were a super vet team (total
ages over 150) in a speedy time of 4:02:54 with the final
team of a field of 52 finishers coming in with a time of
8:38:25. While our Miss Adventures were stoked with
their 20th overall and 4th Super Vets placings with a
time of 4:54:42 especially with little training, it’s not
the finishing time or the placing that actually matter.
What matters is getting out there with a group of likeminded
women of all shapes, sizes, fitness levels and
capabilities. We were all inspired by the women we
witnessed participating in this event - the super fit lead
teams but especially the incredible later teams. What
makes us want to do it all over again is the satisfying
grins on the faces of each and every team member as
they cross the finish line, the weekend away with friends
in yet another stunning part of this beautiful country
we live in, the highs and lows during the race and the
satisfaction of being able to move these amazing bodies
to push ourselves to the limit and maybe even beyond
even when we are well over the super vets age limit.
A beautiful start to the Spring Challenge, Cambridge 2020
Thanks again Nathan and team for yet another awesome
event. In what other sport do we regularly have a multi World
Champ giving so much back to promoting the sport he loves,
how lucky we are!
See you all there next year... Spring Challenge Hawkes Bay,
15th-17th October 2021 : www.springchallenge.co.nz
Above: Team "North2South" (Katie Ridley, Aisling Davies, Kiri
Williams) looking for checkpoints in the 6 hour race
Left: Team "Mis-Adventure" crossing the Arapuni Swingbridge
Below: Our team "Mis-Adventure" Trudi Neill, Linda Lennon,
Lynne Dickinson and Vicki Knell at the pre-race briefing
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 35

Crisp and hard snow marks the entrance to the coolest classroom ever: Mt. Aspiring National Park. or // Crisp, hard snow, fresh alpine air and
bluebird days set the scene for a week's learning in the coolest classroom ever: Mt. Aspiring National Park.
Taking a stroll on the Bonar Glacier and seeing the first glimt of the hut.
The school of mountaineering
Mountaineering season is on and privileged
as we are, we live in a country with majestic
peaks and stunning alpine scenery.
Especially on the South Island which is the
home to some 23, 3000-meter peaks. But
as mesmerizing as the mountains are, we all
know they can be challenging places to be
and must be treated with the utmost respect.
For many of us tramping is not unfamiliar
and provides us with the opportunity to
connect on some level with our unique
alpine environment.
However, if you want to step it up and
explore the more remote parts of our
country, why not strap on some crampons,
grab an ice axe and add a whole new set of
skills to your outdoor-toolbox?
A Mountaineering Skills Course can equip
you for future alpine adventures - all taught
in stunning classrooms.
To give you a bit more of a feel for
what a Mountaineering Skills Course
generally entails we have captured
the experiences of one student who
recently decided to learn more about
the art of mountaineering.
The course was hosted by Aspiring
Guides, which is a long-time mountain
guiding company that has been based
in Wanaka for over 30 years.
The course starts with a spectacular
helicopter flight from Raspberry Flat in
Mt. Aspiring National Park, and you'll
feel on top of the world as you see the
valley getting smaller beneath and the
snowy peaks getting closer.
Landing on Bevan Col marks the start
of the day in the classroom and lesson
number one is walking with crampons.
A funny, yet challenging task with lots of
practice and lots of laughing when falling
and sliding down easy slopes. Managing
a good crampon technique is crucial when
heading into mountaineering and your
guide will make sure you're getting all the
right cues.
A part of the course goes through an
ocean of ice. You’re roped up and heading
into crevasse country.
The sharp, blue and tall ice cliffs make
you wonder if you are Beyond the Wall
in George R.R. Martin’s “The Game of
Thrones”. But walking along the giant ice
pillars is truly unique, and you will have
time to enjoy the spectacular views while
having well-deserved breaks.
Your heart will surely skip a beat when
the "whumpfing" sound of a thin snow
bridge is being tested by your weight.
But as a part of the Mountaineering Skills
Course, the guide will teach you how
to rescue yourself or a team member
from these sometimes seemingless
bottomless crevasses. You will also gain
experience in glacial travel and develop
an understanding of the characteristics of
avalanche terrain.
Colin Todd Hut is one of the million-star
hotels you may ever sleep in, and one of
the fun ways to access the hut involves
climbing roughly 100 vertical meters up
a steep slope. Here you'll get familiar
with your ice axe and hammer, and after
a while, the motion of 'hook, hook, step,
step' becomes a well known rhythm.
Colin Todd has a glorious view of Mt.
Aspiring and the North-West Ridge,
which is the most popular route to summit
the mountain. Colin Todd is also known
for its feather-covered guest: the Kea,
New Zealand's only alpine parrot with
a massive appetite for outdoor gear, so
make sure to store all your equipment
inside.
An alarm from a GPS watch at 3 AM
marks the alpine start. Hot drinks and
muesli with powder milk are downed
before heading out on a pitch-black
glacier. Only lit up by narrow beams from
head torches and flickering stars above.
One of the lessons you learn in the
school of mountaineering is to catch the
curveballs the weather throws at you.
From a crisp and hard surface, the snow
turns into a thick and saturated paste
sticking to your crampons or snowshoes.
But no matter the weather, the classroom
is still open, and the toolbox of
mountaineering is growing bigger by the
hour. Practising in different circumstances
constantly will bring you a well-rounded
learning experience. As the days in the
mountains fly by, you will get sweaty
from digging pits for your snow anchors,
discover new and narrow cracks for your
rock protection, and you will sigh with
relief when your ice screw finally sits
solidly in the icewall after spending time
with an the hammer and axe.
The sun is out, making the glacier look like
a thin blanket of sparkling crystals, and you
reach for your camera to perpetuate this
magical moment in the mountains. And as
you turn your face towards the camera to
take a selfie, you face something yourself:
You're an aspiring mountaineer, and you're
looking forward to climbing some more
great peaks in the future.
36//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#223 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 37

we ARE tramping
During the Mountaineering Skills Course you practise ice climbing and placing protection in rock, snow and ice.
Your heart will surely skip a beat when the
"whumpfing" sound of a thin snow bridge is
being tested by your weight. But as a part of
the Mountaineering Skills Course, the guide
will teach you how to rescue yourself or a
team member when falling into the deep
gaps. And also how to travel safely when
you see the remains of a fresh avalanche -
commonly at the bottom of Mt. French.
Colin Todd Hut is one of the million-star
hotels you may sleep in during the course,
and the direct way to the hut involves
climbing roughly 100 vertical meters up a
steep slope. Here you'll get familiar with your
ice axe and hammer, and after a while, the
motion of 'hook, hook, step, step' becomes a
well known rhythm.
Colin Todd has a glorious view of Mt.
Aspiring and the North-West Ridge, which
is the most popular route to summit the
mountain. Colin Todd is also known for
its feather-covered guest: the Kea, New
Zealand's only alpine parrot with a massive
appetite for outdoor gear, so make sure to
store all your equipment inside.
An alarm from a GPS watch at 3 AM marks the
alpine start. Hot drinks and muesli with powder
milk are downed before heading out on a pitchblack
glacier. Only lit up by narrow beams from
head torches and flickering stars above.
One of the lessons you learn in the school
of mountaineering is to catch the curveballs
the weather throws at you. From a crisp
and hard surface, the snow turns into a
thick and saturated paste sticking to your
crampons or snowshoes.
But no matter the weather, the classroom
is still open, and the toolbox of
mountaineering is growing bigger by the
hour. Practising in different circumstances
constantly will bring you a well-rounded
learning experience.
And as the days in the mountains fly by, you
will get sweaty from digging pits for your
snow anchors, discover new and narrow
cracks for your rock protection, and you will
sigh with relief when your ice screw finally
sits solidly in the icewall after spending time
with an the hammer and axe.
The sun is out, making the glacier look like
a thin blanket of sparkling crystals, and you
reach for your camera to perpetuate this
magical moment in the mountains.
And as you turn your face towards the
camera to take a selfie, you face something
yourself: You're an aspiring mountaineer,
and you can use your new skills to access
summits in our beautiful country.
Our course is an intensive 7-day
mountaineering course with
comprehensive instruction in all facets of
mountaineering and alpine climbing such
as:
• Mountain hazards identification
and avoidance including avalanche
awareness
• Mountain weather
• Ropework, including belay, abseiling
and rescue
• Protection and anchors on snow,
rock and ice
• Glacier travel techniques and
crevasse rescue
• Multipitch climbing and rescue
• Snow, ice and mixed climbing
• Alpine rock climbing
• Mountain shelter and camp
management
• Equipment and clothing selection
• Route selection & navigation
• Trip planning including assessment
of weather and conditions, human
factors and terrain
At the end of the course you will be a
competent member of a mountaineering
team, being able to contribute to decision
making on mountaineering expeditions,
attempt summits via routes graded 1 to 2
(NZ grade) or undertake guided ascents
of more technical objectives.
www.aspiringguides.com
Tramping on Mt Howitt, Hooker Range, high above the Landsborough Valley
Photo: Mark Watson / Highluxphoto
Whether it’s a day trip with the family or a multi-day adventure deep into the wilderness, Bivouac has the best gear,
from the top brands, to keep you safe, comfortable, warm and dry. Our friendly staff are happy to provide expert
advice, ensuring you get the right equipment and the right fit. If you need it for tramping, we have it, because at
Bivouac Outdoor we ARE tramping.
OFFICIAL GEAR SUPPLIER
PROUD SUPPORTER OF...
STORES NATIONWIDE
www.bivouac.co.nz
38//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#223

spirited women?
Are you female? Are you looking for a
challenge? Do you want to kick start
2021 on a positive note?
If you answered ‘’Yes!’’ to the above
questions, then look no further than
the 2021 North Island edition on March
13th and/or the South Island edition
on April 10th of the Spirited Women
Adventure Race. We invite you to find
your inner spirit, be brave, and together
with your girlfriends make up a team to
take part in an event that will provide an
unforgettable experience.
The Spirited Women - All Women's
Adventure Race is an event where
teams of four women navigate a secret
course on foot, mountain bike, and
kayak. Along the way, they will find a
number of mystery activities which are
always a highlight for participants. The
event is set up to provide women with
the opportunity to get out with their
teammates and have one hell of an
adventure.
As one of our past participants put it,
“On event day, it is EVERYTHING that
is awesome. The unknown terrain, the
mystery activities, the water, mountain
biking, and supporting each other. It is
such a wonderful event, thank you for
the memories”
With a short, medium, and long-course
adventure option to choose from,
and with stable sit-on tandem kayaks
provided for all teams, all levels of
fitness and experience are welcomed
and catered for.
Event Manager, Debbie Chambers will
be taking over the reins in 2021. She
can’t believe her luck to have landed her
dream job. Debbie has been adventure
racing since 2000, she was part of New
Zealand’s most successful all women’s
adventure racing team, Team Girls on
Top, and has done multiple adventure
races all around the world. A highlight
for her was racing in the Amazon
Jungle.
“I simply love the sport of adventure
racing. I love the teamwork aspect of it
the most, but I also love exploring new
locations that you would never get to
visit otherwise. I love the navigation and
the challenges that get thrown your way.
There are so many facets to adventure
racing that you never get bored trying to
achieve the perfect race.”
“What I am most excited about is
working alongside Neil Gellatly, the
Event Director, to provide a worldclass
adventure racing experience
to New Zealand’s Spirited Women.
I love seeing women build their skill
sets, push outside their comfort zone,
and overcome challenges. I love
empowering women to try new things
in a supportive environment and the
Spirited Women events are the perfect
platform for this”
The Spirited Women’s Adventure
race is far more than creating an
unforgettable event experience shared
among girlfriends; it’s about women
making time for themselves, their health,
and fitness. For many participants,
the journey to the event is the most
cherished part. Regularly getting
together as a team to train, learn new
skills, and supporting one another to
push their boundaries. It strengthens
bonds and relationships, bringing family,
friends, and work colleagues together
for a weekend of unadulterated fun.
We asked Debbie what advice she
would give to a team just starting out.
Here is what she had to say; “Planning
and preparation make for a better on
the day performance and enhance your
enjoyment. My advice to all teams no
matter what their goal, is to take the
time to get comfortable with mountain
biking, trekking up and down hills, and
kayaking. Spend as much time doing
these things with all your teammates
prior to the event as you can. Also,
make sure your whole team is on the
same page in terms of your team goals.
Things tend to go bad when one team
member is there to be competitive when
the other three are there to have fun and
enjoy the scenery. One last thing, please
get your bike serviced prior to the event
as getting a flat tyre or breaking a chain
or having your brakes fail during the
event is no fun for anyone.”
So what are you waiting for? If you’re
looking for an outdoor adventure,
side by side with your three besties,
in unique new North and South Island
destinations each year, you may have
found the answer.
Check out the Spirited Women - All
Women's Adventure Race website
www.spiritedwomen.co.nz
40//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#223

HOMEGROWN
WEST COAST
THE WEST COAST
A region well versed in
its adventurous roots
Words by Chris Birt - Images compliments of Tourism West Coast
The spectacular Hokitika Gorge
The pre-dawn of February 26 1983 emerged with
a bracing breeze, as early mornings often do in
the shadow of New Zealand’s tallest mountain
peaks.
In the half-light, thunderous waves crashed into
black sands at Kumara, just south of Greymouth.
At the water’s edge 79 hardy souls tentatively
anticipating the start of one of the biggest
adventures of their lives.
An excitable little man with an impressive beard
and a commanding character screeched through a
mega-phone: ‘Back, get further back!’
This small contingent of scantily-clad individuals
retreated, the reluctance at starting a new day
immersed in the vast Tasman Sea written all over
their collective faces.
As the chills enveloped them, I asked myself
what these crazy adventurers were doing there.
Equally, what was I doing in such a desolate place
as the sand flies honed in for the kill, especially at
that ungodly time of the day?
Alongside me was Graeme Brown, a young
cameraman in the infancy of his career but
eagerly desirous of having his work presented
to the adventuring world. At that frozen moment
in time he admitted to having those very same
thoughts.
Little did he know it but he was capturing on film
- digital imagery hadn’t been conceived at that
time - adventure racing history in the making.
[Graeme’s fantastic images accompanied my
words in the next Adventure Magazine].
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 43

When you spend time outdoors you feel
great, but your skin may not appreciate
your adventures.
Sun, bugs, salt, damp, grazed knees, blisters
and chaffing can take a toll on your skin.
Goodbye makes certified natural
products that take care of your skin
outdoors as well as the recovery
afterwards. From sunscreen to bug
repellent and the balm in between. Your
skin will be in better condition as a result.
Goodbye products are designed with care
by New Zealand based outdoor guides
Becky and John. Every product that they
develop and offer starts with a desire to
have a product that is truly natural, high
performance and a joy to use.
We belong
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You belong outdoors. Goodbye products
help your skin belong outdoors too.
goodbye.co.nz
Kohaihai,
Entrance to
Kahurangi
National Park
.
The evening before the large-as-life
Robin Judkins had met us, momentarily
as he was in full flight at the Kumara
Junction hall. Far too busy with lastminute
arrangements for the safety
briefing for what was to become one of
the world’s greatest adventure racing
events, this energiser bunny in a human
form looked at these two strangers and
without shame declared: “For a minute I
thought you were entrants, but one is too
fat and the other too young.” It did not go
un-noticed that he was staring straight at
me when he spoke of a somewhat portly
one, not too put too finer point on it.
Clearly he did not see me as a suitable
candidate for the inaugural two-day cycle
ride, mountain run, kayak and bike ride
from the wilds of the West Coast to the
gently-lapping waves of the Pacific Ocean
at Sumner Beach in Christchurch.
This visit to the West Coast was not my
first and nor was it destined to be my last.
That’s what happens when a place like
this gets under your skin, luring you back
time and again as it slowly reveals its
many layers. Beware, because it can be
highly addictive.
The Fox Glacier
The opportunities for visitation and the
range of experiences for those with
adventure in their souls have increased
dramatically since 1983. But the untamed
natural wilderness that sits at the heart of
these adventures has not.
The natural landforms on which the visitor
industry of 2020 is anchored have been
there, seemingly in-situ, for millennia. The
vast caverns and subterranean chasms
at the Oparara Basin just north east of
the enticing little hamlet of Karamea are
an example of how little ‘The Coast’ has
changed.
Similarly the limestone formations at
Punakaiki were created over millions of
years as minute sea creatures gave their
lives for what is, today, one of the region’s
most impressive natural formations, with
its huge wave surges from an ocean that
has its origin 2583 kilometres away.
The vast ice shelves that carve their way
through dense rock in their quest for the
sea, Fox and Franz Josef glaciers, are
further examples of how time has stood
still on the West Coast of Aotearoa New
Zealand.
tribespeople who crossed mountain
passes and braved raging rivers in a
quest for pounamu/greenstone, by then
already prized for tools and weapons.
Every day was an adventure for those
who made the journey from the sedate
eastern coast, through what is today
known as the Main Divide, and down the
valleys to the Tasman Sea.
In 1846 one Thomas Brunner, an
Englishman working as a surveyor for the
New Zealand Company joined two others
in a bid to scout for possible agricultural
land south-west of Nelson. During a
three-week expedition they reached the
Buller River and then Maruia, before a
scarcity of supplies drove them home.
All three of these intrepid adventurers
were later honoured by having landmarks
named after them. Charles Heaphy’s
name lives in one of the most popular
walking and mountainbiking tracks in the
region - this emerges from the Kahurangi
National Park near Karamea - while
William Fox has a glacier bearing his
name. Brunner got a coal mine and
a picturesque lake to immortalise his
exploits.
The West Coast 37 years ago, when
Judkins’ dream event began its path to
international fame and, for him, fortune
- it has now hosted 20,000 adventure
racers from every corner of the planet -
was vastly different to that which can be
experienced now, in some respects but
not in others.
Some of the greatest adventures
undertaken on the West Coast had their
genesis in the earliest days of human
exploration of that remote, wild and at
times desolate region.
The first to take up the challenges posed
by such a hostile and yet stunningly
beautiful landscape were the early
Brunner made adventure an art form with
exploits that arguably have never been
surpassed. In December 1846, just six
years after the British Crown and some
tribes signed a Treaty which promised
a partnership unparalleled anywhere in
the world, Brunner, two Maori guides and
their wives left Nelson to forge a path
from Nelson to Milford Sound.
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 45

The West Coast is rich with untouched beauty, Fox Glacier shows the timelessness of the area
Top: West Coast Wilderness Trail / Below: Mountainbiking in Reefton
Later referred to as the Great Journey,
this mission of epic proportions lasted
a gruelling 550 days, traversing some
of the most difficult, uninviting and
inhospitable terrain in this far-flung
outpost of the British Empire.
Brunner and his loyal guide Ketu made
it back to Nelson in March 1848, long
after his superiors and indeed most the
growing settler community had given
them up for dead. To his dismay, he
recalled that the little dog which had
been his constant companion had been
sacrificed during one of his many stints
of near-starvation.
Brunner’s epic endeavours - an
18-month series of adventures that
pushed him to the limits of human
endurance - gained him a place in
history, with news of his exploits
reaching Wellington and ultimately
London. The Royal Geographic Society
honoured him with its Patron’s Medal
and its French counterpart, the Société
de géographie, awarded him a diploma.
Brunner’s reputation-building expedition
set off a surge among those seeking to
emulate his achievements. Wave after
wave of adventurers headed for the
West Coast. Brunner had discovered
coal and when gold was found just as
the Land Wars erupted elsewhere in this
British colony, a rush of unprecedented
proportions unfolded.
Eleanor Catton’s Man Booker prizewinning
novel The Luminaries led to
a BBC mini-series which screened
recently on TV1. It captures that era on
the West Coast superbly.
Those that stayed at the end of the
gold rush, and the many thousands
who followed - to hack farms from the
wild jungles, to harvest the vast timber
resources or to build communities -
all helped create a region in which
adventure became an integral part of
everyday life. This is the foundation on
which the West Coast’s visitor industry
rests today.
Everywhere on The Coast there’s an
adventure to be experienced and a
postcard vista to be recorded at each
turn of the trail, bend of the river, or
ripple on the lake or at the edge of
what is now known as the Big Ditch.
They range from the hot and smelly to
the placid and gentle and everything in
between. Mixing and matching of these
various elements has a lot going for it.
Here is just some of what is on offer:-
Cycling:
The West Coast hosts two of New
Zealand’s most challenging multi-day
riding trails. The Old Ghost Road
traverses the north-east of the region
[see accompanying article for details]
and is becoming increasingly popular
with advanced MTB enthusiasts
seeking a connection with the past,
as well as with nature. The newest
multi-day trail is through the Paparoa
National Park and includes the
Pike River mine memorial. It is 55
kilometres, one way and takes three
days. Grade 4. Check with DOC for
hut space availability and bookings.
Those seeking a more leisurely, less
strenuous cycling experience can
opt for the West Coast Wilderness
Trail, which begins in Greymouth and
terminates at the small former gold
mining hamlet of Ross.
One of the most accessible and
smoothest trail rides in the country, it
can be done over three or four days,
passing through ancient rainforests,
along the banks of glacial rivers and
moody lakes and around wetlands.
Parts of the trail involve cycling along
bush tram lines and water races with
history and heritage everywhere
- old gold mining settlements and
workings, historic bridges and a
chance to experience the hardships
of life in the mid-19th century, when
the West was occupied but never
conquered. This trail can be tackled
guided or un-guided. Grade 2 with
some Grade 3 on-road sections.
A multitude of short rides and helibiking
options exist over the length
of the West Coast, each with their
own characteristics and degrees of
difficulty. Reefton is a great base for
heli-biking, but other locations also
offer options. Short rides for all ages
and experience levels can be found
throughout the region. The i-SITES
in Westport, Greymouth and at Franz
Josef can make recommendations.
The Denniston Plateau, site of the
biggest coal extraction operation in
New Zealand at one time and hosting
a tram line with one of the steepest
inclines ever built is a favoured haunt
of backcountry riders. The trails in
that location total 50 kilometres,
offering rides from one and 12 hours
in duration. Grade 2 to 4 - easy to
advanced.
46//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#223 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 47

The Upper Waiau-Uwha
North Canterbury
3 Day Rafting Adventure
Jetboating near Haast
The Upper Māwheranui /
Grey River, West Coast
2-3 Day Rafting Adventure
Choose from a range of day and multiday rafting
adventures. Come and explore Aotearoa’s
stunning wilderness with us! All within a
three hour drive from Christchurch.
www.inlandadventures.co.nz | 0508 RAFTING(723 846)
Water Sports:
Much of the action on the West Coast is
centred on jetboating, rafting and kayaking -
the latter involving white water or on lakes and
rivers. A main centre for white water rafting
and kayaking is the Buller River gorge, with
operators based there who specialise in this
challenging environment. Grade 4 and 5 in this
locality.
Cave rafting is centred on Charleston, with
the small but fun-filled Nile River providing
excitement. A bush steam train provides novel
access to this adventure. Glacier rafting,
centred on Ross, is an option with everything
from scenic drift trips to Grade 5 white water
action in New Zealand’s highest mountain
range.
Paddle boarding and kayaking are offered
around Punakaiki and in the majestic lakes
surrounded by ancient rainforests to the south.
Mahinapua and Mapourika are stunning
locations for these activities.
Jetboating: Operators provide river tours in
the lower Buller gorge and at Karamea. The
Buller River is characterised by massive rocks
and tight bends, making for a white-knuckle
ride. Tours pass under a historic structure,
New Zealand’s longest swing bridge, while
the adjacent Cometline provides a rush for
those who have little fear of being secured
in a harness high above a raging river. By
comparison, jetboating at Karamea is a tame
affair - a scenic tour with commentary on the
region’s post-colonial settlement and history.
On the Waiatoto River near Haast jetboating
offers the only tours that carry passengers
from the ocean to the Alps within a UNESCO
world heritage park. Options include an ecotour
or fast and furious white-water adventure
designed to get the heart pumping on all
cylinders.
Fishing: The West Coast boasts some of the
most valued fishing venues in New Zealand
- along the sea coast for a range of species,
in the rivers and in the lakes. A multitude of
options exist for novices and seasoned fishing
fanatics alike. Sea run trout, yellow eyed
mullet and kahawai are common, while the
Buller River and Lake Brunner produce wily
brown trout, which they say get to die from old
age.
No visit to the West Coast would be complete
without indulging in the whitebait which come
ashore and into the rivers. Watching the
hundreds of whitebaiters ply their trade in their
favourite and fiercely-protected possies is
an adventure in itself, but outside the fishing
season cuisine featuring these translucent
little creatures is available in most locations.
Whitebait fritters or patties provide a unique
melt-in-the-mouth moment.
Fishing in Lake Brunner
Rafting with Inland Adventures
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 49

Hiking and Walking:
Hiking in Haast Pass
The West Coast boasts multiple opportunities to undertake hike
and walks, ranging from a gentle meander along the edges of
the inland waterways - Lake Brunner, with its stunning rainforest
backdrop is a must-do location - to multi-day adventures for hardcore
experienced trampers. A short walk which provides stunning
scenery is at the Hokitika River gorge, where meandering still
waters run deep, intense turquoise in colour. The Paparoa Track
and Old Ghost Road trail are multi-day walks. Hut bookings are
required for both.
The walk into the Oparara Arches should not be missed either.
Tucked away in the Kahurangi National Park, Oparara has been
preserved through millions of years of isolation. Access is just
north of Karamea, with both guided and un-guided excursions
available. Leave a few hours and take a picnic lunch in order to
soak up the magnificence of this geological masterpiece.
Don’t just do a good walk......
do a GREAT one!
Fully organised & supported self-guided & guided walks
Bringing the New Zealand outdoors
......a step closer to you!
www.greatwalksofnewzealand.co.nz
info@greatwalksofnewzealand.co.nz
0800 496 369
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 51

HOMEGROWN TAIAO
WEST COAST
Flightseeing:
The West Coast is blessed with some of
the most majestic, breathtaking scenery
on the planet, with the towering peaks
of the Southern Alps, long braided rivers
and mirror-image lakes - not forgetting the
massive ice walls at Fox and Franz Josef
glaciers - all visible from above. Fixed wing
aircraft or helicopter flights operate from
Karamea to Haast. Those based at the
twin glaciers provide access onto the ice
directly, with guided hikes providing high
adventure in these localities. Skydiving
from dizzy heights above the mountains
gives an inkling of how the eagles soared
in Glacier Country.
The spectacular aerial beauty of Haast
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 53

Hokitika Gorge, Hokitika
Across Country Quads
Grab yourself a West Coast
holiday this Summer
The West Coast is chock-full of worldclass
natural wonders, famous cycle
and walking tracks, untamed nature,
and one-of-a-kind spots.
And there’s never been a better
summer to visit! This summer there
are loads of great deals on adventure
activities, luxury getaways, unique food
and drink, boutique accommodation
and loads more.
Learn more & book:
westcoast.co.nz/deals
Add to the mix a huge range of
accommodation and transport
operations, attractions based on
the region’s wealth of history and
heritage, the galleries where talented
artisans craft stunning works from
local resources - pounamu and native
timbers are favoured – and great food
utilising fresh local products and it can
be seen that adventure in all its forms
exists in this one compact region.
Several locations in New Zealand claim
the coveted title of Adventure Capital
of New Zealand. Queenstown stakes
its reputation on that, so does Rotorua.
And Taupo dips its toe in these waters
when the opportunity arises.
The West Coast does not need to seek
flashy contested titles. Adventure is
at the heart of its natural world and its
people. Arguably, the Coasters have
been doing it as part of their daily lives
longer than anyone else in the country.
The West Coast has always presented
challenges - adventures in another
guise - since the first indigenous
explorers crossed from the east and it
probably did for the moa, giant eagles
and other early-history species.
The biggest challenge this sliver of
untamed natural wilderness presents
today is not what to put in a travel plan,
but what to leave out.
The answer can be found in ‘doing’
The Coast in the manner intended, with
patience and at a pace that provides
sufficient time to delve deep below the
surface, literally and figuratively.
A visit of 10 or 14 days is
recommended for total immersion
in what promises to be one of the
greatest adventures of a lifetime. But
better still a series of mini-breaks is
recommended, picking off one group
of activities at a time and unpeeling the
multiple layers that exist in these parts.
In the absence of international
travellers, those who can provide
the local knowledge that comes from
having lived life here - the Coasters
possess it with abundance - there is no
better time for planning an adventurebased
incursion.
Local operators across the visitor
sphere, those in activities and
attractions, accommodation and
transport, have always been happy to
share their space and talk turkey. It’s in
their DNA and for the rest of us there is
no better time to accept their heart-felt
invitation to visit.
The Coast is offering a host of Hot
Deals and Cool Holidays right now. The
time is certainly right for an adventure
outing on the West Coast.
For more information on this wonderful part of New Zealand visit www.westcoast.co.nz/deals
Buller Gorge Swingbridge
Fox Glacier Horse Riding
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 55

BIKING
TALES
the old snow ghost road
Vista just past Ghost Lake Hut
By Emily Miazga, M.Sc. Clinical Nutrition, 3x Coast to Coast World
Multisport Champ and Creator of Em’s Power Cookies
Do you have a favourite ride, tramp, or route
that you have done several times and never
grow tired of it? I do. For me, I am fortunate
to have the Old Ghost Road in my backyard
and naturally, I have done it several times
either via running, tramping and mountain
biking (including before it was the “OGR”).
It is a pretty hard track to beat. It has a
diverse range of wilderness-porn on offer;
native beech forest, open alpine vistas,
rocky outcrops, virgin untouched bush, and
the fantastic Mokihinui Gorge. It is a natural
adventure bliss ball. Whenever I have
family or friends visiting, an obligatory jaunt
even just part way up the track, is a regular
feature and always a surefire wow-factor
outing that I never get bored of.
As we were heading into spring, it felt like
it was time to do another dash through the
Ghost. My riding partner Craig wanted to
ride all 3 of the West Coast tracks (Ghost,
Heaphy and Paparoa), so we started with
the Ghost. The original plan was to ride
it over 2 days. Day 1 was from the Lyell
through to Goat Creek hut, which is the
small, rustic DoC hut about 8km south of the
Mokihinui Forks. This section made up about
57 km of the 85km track. Day 2
was to be a shorter day, just 28km,
passing by the Forks and then out
the Gorge to the Seddonville end of
the track. From there, it is a further
road ride to finish at my house,
north of Westport.
The spring weather had been brisk,
and so we were expecting some
snow over the short alpine section
of the track, maybe 3-4km along
the highest part. The timing of the
ride coincided with school holidays,
so we were keen to get up and
through to Goat Creek Hut in
order to avoid the bigger crowded
huts. We knew we had to make
good time if we were to encounter
some snow which can be slow to cross,
however we were not too concerned about it
significantly affecting the ride.
"It has a diverse range
of wilderness-porn on
offer; native beech forest,
open alpine vistas,
rocky outcrops, virgin
untouched bush, and
the fantastic Mokihinui
Gorge. It is a natural
adventure bliss ball."
Heaven’s Door
56//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#223 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 57

Morning deep snow at Ghost Lake Hut
T H E
B E
T
A C C O M M O D AT
I O N
E N
T R
adventure basecamp
"Attempting riding through the snow
was impossible, at least for us. We
lowered our tyre pressure and gave it a
few tries, but it was completely futile."
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We started riding from the Lyell end around midmorning
and were surprised to see snow quite early
on, about 7-8km in. This was both intriguing, and a little
worrisome because of how low the elevation was. I
began to wonder what was in store as we climbed. We
soon found out. At 18km when we arrived at the Lyell
Saddle Hut, the snow was thick, very well-established
and not showing any sign of getting lighter. It was a
fine day and ironically not cold at all, even when I got
the giggles and fell over into the cold white fluff.
Attempting riding through the snow was impossible, at
least for us. We lowered our tyre pressure and gave
it a few tries, but it was completely futile. So, it turned
into a hike-a-bike day, and a long one at that. The
distance from the Lyell Saddle Hut to the Ghost Lake
Hut is about 12km. We pushed our bikes the whole
way. The first 6-7km of climbing up to the tops was
actually pleasant but I was worried about getting cold,
especially my feet which were saturated the whole
time. Also, I was not that bike fit so I started to doubt
if I was getting into something over my head with
the challenging conditions. I had never experienced
anything like that on a bike which is ironic, being raised
in Canada. Where I come from if there was snow, you
donned skis, not mountain bikes!
UNLEASH YOUR POWER!
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with ingredients you can
trust. They are the perfect
slow-burning fuel to power
up your adventures.
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AFTER THE
THRILL
COMES TIME TO
CHILL.
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Traversing along the alpine section with impressive icicles
To overcome any self-doubt, I simply put my mind over
matter practice into gear which is something that I am very
familiar with. Just like any challenge, we broke it down and
just put one foot in front of the other and carried on pushing
through with a good attitude. We were well-equipped with
our gear, and we are both strong athletes.
The open alpine section was exhilarating and exceptionally
beautiful. There were deep banks of snow and massive
icicles most of the way. The temperature was chilly but we
stayed warm by laughing and getting stuck into the physical
work of pushing and lifting our bikes through the snow. We
had a fair bit of weight to push, especially Craig, due to our
gourmet food and a few cans of IPA beer we had on board. It
was actually really fun!
We arrived at Ghost Lake Hut by late afternoon, much later
than planned, and clearly needed to bunk in for the night.
There was no way we could have made it to Goat Creek hut
because the low elevation of the snow meant we still had
several kms to push through. The hut was pretty full with
trampers so we camped out in one of the unheated sleepouts
which was fine once we got into our sleeping bags.
The next day we set out for more pushing through the
snow past the Skyline ridge, down the steps and another
couple kms down the descent towards the Stern Creek Hut.
Altogether, we covered about 17km of snowy hike-a-biking.
Once we hit dry ground, we had a little celebration, pumped
up our tyres and rode away like the wind. The snowscape
made this trip a memorable one, and certainly turned the
familiar ride into a very different and unique Old Ghost Road
experience.
Happy trails!
Powergirl Em
Adventure starts with Rad
23 Locations
60//WHERE ACTIONS
Nationwide
SPEAK LOUDER
- www.radcarhire.co.nz
THAN WORDS/#223
| 0800 73 68 23 | adventure@radcarhire.co.nz

Ellie-Jean in Tahiti at the start of her surfing career
Image by Steve Dickinson
Shooting Ellie-Jean in action in Tahiti back in our Curl days when she was all
about surfing - mage by Steve Dickinson
Putting yourself out there
By Steve Dickinson
From a young age she was aware she was cute, the quintessential surfer
girl, long blond hair, dark tan, huge smile, and a feminine shape.
Kicking over a can of worms; as
a journalist sometimes you do it
on purpose but other times you
just stop and go ‘whoa, I didn’t
expect that.’
After I put down the phone
for the fifth time, listening to
someone from the surf industry
nervously want to know more
details about this story, I went
‘whoa, I didn’t expect that.’
About 12 years ago I met Ellie-
Jean Coffey when she was
about fourteen; she was fresh
faced and lived in a bus with
her sisters and parents. Her
mother had had a skateboarding
accident and needed care, so
her father gave up his job as a
builder, sold the house, bought
a bus and the family travelled
around Australia fishing and
surfing. A somewhat idyllic
lifestyle and the perfect breeding
ground for a young girl wanting
to become a good surfer, which
she did.
She started to compete at the
age of ten and was soon picked
by Billabong and sponsored
onto the world surfing stage.
She got to travel and surf some
of the best destinations in the
world and at one stage was
ranked in the top 23 in the world.
It was during this time that I
worked with Ellie-Jean, shooting
in Australia, Tahiti, and Hawaii.
From the very beginning she
was aware she was cute, the
quintessential surfer girl, long
blond hair, dark tan, huge smile,
and a feminine shape.
Everything seemed to be
going perfectly at first, the
surf industry seemed to be
strong and in 2005 to 2008, her
sponsors began to expand their
portfolio. They acquired several
expensive brands; Von Zipper
eyewear, Element Skateboards,
Honolua Surf Company,
Nixon watches, action sports
accessories label DaKine and
Canadian action sports retailer
West 49. Unfortunately, it was a
poorly timed move that left them
with rapidly depreciating assets
just as the global economic
crisis hit and sales and the
whole surf industry began to
nosedive.
As all the major surf industry
brands began to lose traction
so sponsored surfers began
to lose contracts. This period
was like Armageddon for the
surf industry, there were more
people than ever surfing, but the
masses turned more towards a
counterculture and away from
those foundation surf brands like
Billabong, Quiksilver, Rip Curl,
Volcom. These big brands were
still making money but not on
the same scale, the glory days
were gone.
The first area of financial
restructure to feel the bite were
the sponsored surfers, the
seemingly most expendable
were the female surfers and
they were the first to lose their
contracts, but not Ellie-Jean.
During this unsettled time Ellie-
Jean began to capitalise more
on her looks than her surfing
achievements. Her Instagram
images showed more cleavage,
A young Ellie-Jean on the
left with her family
Image supplied
her bikinis became smaller, her
images and small video clips
more engaging.
At the same time social media
started to get a real foothold
and Ellie-Jean was one of the
first to jump on the Instagram
bandwagon and her following
rocketed, (currently she has
over a million followers).
But it was not all plain sailing
for Ellie-Jean. Being young and
away from home a lot made
her very vulnerable. She has
recently been in the world press
voicing her experiences with the
abuse, mental and physically,
that she suffered, in her words,
“by those in power in the surf
industry”. She does not go so
far as to name names, but it
does not surprise me in the
slightest. At that time we ran
Curl Magazine, which was a
magazine created for female
surfers and it was via that
platform that we heard a lot of
ugly stories about the pressures
that some of these young
women were under in terms of
how they looked, their sexuality,
how they performed, plus all the
normal teenage pressures.
At one stage, while shooting
in Tahiti, we were asked if the
industry employed photographer
could join us. I was shooting
Paige Hareb (the now Kiwi
legend) and Ellie-Jean from a
small boat. We welcomed the
photographer along and straight
away there was a different
feel to the shoot, it just felt
uncomfortable. Our focus was to
show how amazing these girls
surfed. He thought his job was
to shoot how they looked. He
shot more of the girls paddling
in bikinis than he did them riding
waves. At one stage he asked
could the girls hold hands while
surfing, which we said no to
as it was demeaning; these
were young sports women not
performing seals.
Later he produced a branded
towel and ask Ellie-Jean to take
her top off and wrap herself in
the towel, again we stopped that
from happening but it brought
into focus the attitude of some
of the industry and the pressure
the girls were under. I discussed
this recently with some in the
industry and they were adamant
that was not the directive from
the sponsors and that was the
photographer’s own choice.
But just thumb through any surf
magazine of that era or any
website (some still even now) and
the objectives are very clear, if
not spoken.
As the surf industry continued to
shrink, so the scramble for the
sponsorship dollars increased.
Ellie-Jean had focused more
and more on her social media,
developing a real and engaged
following.
One of Ellie-Jean's
latest Instagram posts
Image supplied
62//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#223 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 63

Ellie-Jean still surfing - Image supplied
The 16-second clip shows the
blonde beauty practicing her
surf training on a skateboard,
her enviable cleavage and super
fit body on display.”
From the infamous skating clip - Image supplied
of innocents that led her from one
promotional stage to another? My
guess looking at all the pieces of this
puzzle is that it was a mixture of all
three.
Ellie-Jean Coffey has always put
herself ‘out there’. She has been
vilified in chatrooms and websites
across the internet. She has been on
TV and questioned about her social
media and sexuality, she has been
on the front pages of newspapers
around the world because of
accusations and career choices. She
may not be seen an advocate for
women’s rights, but it was her who
voiced the issues within the male
dominated surf industry. She had
the courage to stand-up and make
a personal and revealing statement
and the reaction has been both
positive and negative.
From professional surfer to adult
entertainer, Ellie-Jeans career path
has always been one of performance
– but at least now ‘she’ is in control.
Thumb through any mag surf magazine of that era or any website (some
still even now) and the objectives are very clear, if not spoken.
The difference between the opening "News" page and the opening page for
their "Girls" section is all too clear to see in this online surf publication.
There was a lot of criticism that
what she was doing was just
soft porn. At age 21 she was
ranked 23rd in the world and was
thrown into the limelight when
a 16 second video clip of her
skateboarding went viral. It was
a little raunchy but harmless,
however it cemented her online
presence.
On the other side of the world the
Daily Mail in the UK described the
video;
“The 16-second clip shows the
blonde beauty practicing her surf
training on a skateboard, her
enviable cleavage and super fit
body on display.”
The surf industry continued to
spiral into its own recession and
only a few sponsored female
surfers, one of which was Ellie-
Jean, remained. Not because
she was the best surfer but
because she had the greatest
following. When discussing with
her previous sponsors they were
adamant that keeping Ellie-Jean
had nothing to do with her sexy
profile but because of her huge
social media following. But her
following was only marginally due
to her surfing and mostly due to
her ever declining bikinis and
ample cleavage.
Now that might be an indictment
on the surf industry, but since
marketing began, we have always
known sex sells. The sponsor
may not have been using sex
to sell products; however they
knew it is what fed the following.
But let me note here that Ellie-
Jean was still surfing great, she
still competed and was often
successful, she knew better
than anyone that her brand was
herself and she marketed herself
well.
As the tide of time came in
and out a few times, Ellie-Jean
started pushing the boundaries
of Instagram and the beach babe
surf shots became more lingerie
and mirrors and then slowly the
introduction and promotion of
other products and other brands
and she eventually distanced
herself completely from her
sponsor.
Ellie-Jean capitalised on her
nurtured Instagram exposure
and developed it. It gave her the
foundation of a huge following,
over a million. A following that
was marketed and fed by the surf
industry but eventually she simply
outgrew them. She led the way
into a new era of digital promotion
and left the surf industry in her
wake.
Ellie-Jean has never been
shy about her sexuality,
and alongside the ‘Me Too’
movement she has been vocal
about her negative experiences
as a young woman within that
industry. A lot of this came to
light in the media when she
launched her own website www.
ellieunlocked.com which is an
adult site, tagged ‘uncensored
content, private chat and more’.
She again was criticised that
her comments on the toxic
surf culture was just a stunt
to get promotion for the site.
Firstly, it does not matter if it
was, it happened and not only
to Ellie-Jean but to lots of the
other girls. We now live in an
era where there are a lot of
organisations and sports being
called to account for the way
things were done. We were
contacted by a few in the surf
industry and asked about this
editorial, and we were told that
any issues had been dealt at the
time ‘amicably’, ‘accusations were
made and people were fired’. But
just because you pull up one weed
you are naive to think that was the
only one.
The reveal from Ellie-Jean about
her experiences in the surf
industry were not leverage to
get attention; Ellie-Jean didn’t
need any sort of gimmick, just
the fact that a sports woman, a
professional surfer had moved
into the adult industry would
be exposure enough (no pun
intended).
Talking to her about this new
stage, about her adult site she
says that it is empowering, that
she has control over what she
says, shows and does and there is
no other ‘sponsor’ directing. Even
if you do not agree morally that
her path has been a positive one,
you must accept that her ability to
capitalise on her exposure both
literally and figurative has been
hugely successful.
Was it planned or was it just
luck? Was it just the right time,
right place? Or was it a string of
coincidences, linked to a loss
At one stage Ellie-Jean was ranked #23 in the world
Image supplied
64//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#223

8 Tips for Visiting the Outer
Islands of Vanuatu
Vanuatu’s outer islands are rich in culture,
landscape and adventure, but before you
book your flights and hop over to this
tropical paradise, it’s important to get some
tips to help you understand the nuance of
this family of islands. Here are some things
you need to know before booking your
Vanuatu escape.
Get used to island time
Make sure you don’t bring your traditional
approach to time and tourism to Vanuatu.
Sure, you may be told your charter flight
will leave the outer island airport at 2pm,
or that your driver will pick you up at 11am,
but don’t be mad if nobody arrives on
time. It’s not done out of spite, or laziness,
there’s just no reason to rush. If you
always keep a good book tucked away in
your backpack, or a deck of cards, you’ll
be just fine. Have a couple of buffer days
at the end of your trip as well, just in case!
66//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#223

Tell your friends and family you’ll be
back soon, you’re going off-grid
It’s so easy to romanticise going off grid –
lying back under coconut palms, floating in
crystal clear waters. Being disconnected
from the cyber world can be both anxiety
inducing and incredible freeing. However,
going ‘off-grid’ in the outer islands of
Vanuatu means more than just no internet.
It often means no electricity either. While
the capital city of Port Vila and main
tourism towns have power and modern
amenities, this is not the case everywhere.
Unplugging is part of the charm of the
remote islands of Vanuatu, but it does
mean you need to be prepared. Pack
some spare batteries for your camera and
let your friends and family know you may
be out of contact for a few days. You can
get a local sim card, but they don’t work
everywhere. Understand that a lack of
electricity will affect your ability to have
a hot shower, run a fan in the heat of
the day and flush a toilet. This is a great
opportunity to let it all go, soak up the sun
and the culture, and sink into Vanuatu life.
Get ready to dance
Often, when you have the privilege of
witnessing a traditional cultural dance in
an outer island village, a smiling local will
drag you into the circle, teach you how
to move, and encourage you to dance
and sing. Embrace this! Move your hips
and stomp your feet and laugh with the
children. Once you allow yourself to let
go, you’ll be dancing your way across the
islands.
Pack your hiking boots
Vanuatu’s outer islands aren't just isolated
beaches and fresh coconuts. There
are hundreds of hikes and volcanoes
and waterfalls that will take your breath
away. Good (waterproof) hiking boots are
essential if you’re the adventurous type.
Wet weather gear wouldn’t be a bad idea
either– you never know when the tropical
rains might hit.
If you’ve got a sweet tooth, stock up
on the main islands. There are few
stores dotted around the outer islands,
but they don’t always have the variety of
snacks you may be craving – although
the fruit will be unbelievably good. If you
fly into Santo or Port Vila, stock up there.
We recommend Aelan chocolate – it’s
a social enterprise that makes the most
delicious chocolate, with cocoa grown
from the volcanic soil across the outer
islands!
Pack your own snorkel gear
If you’re a keen diver, you’ll be
overwhelmed by just how many reefs
there are to explore. You won’t always be
able to source gear to rent, so if you love
to explore the underwater world, it’s best
you bring your own snorkel and goggles.
You never know who you might meet
under there: a sleepy dugong, a friendly
turtle or an excitable pod of dolphins.
Be Prepared
While adventure is why we are here,
drama is not. Realising that you are going
into remote areas where there is very little
infrastructure, adjust how you prepare
your gear to suit this reality. Ensure you
have a good medical first aid kit, take
plenty of cash (there are no ATMs in
the remote islands), insect repellents,
bag liners for wet days, pack spares of
necessary items (batteries), medication
and so on. Grab what you need before
you go.
For more information on Vanuatu’s
Outer Islands www.vanuatu.travel
vanuatu.travel
Book most of your activities when you
get there
I know it’s tempting to book everything
before you go – to get on that plane with
a clear plan and a strict itinerary. But
you can’t do that for the outer islands of
Vanuatu. And that’s part of the magic.
It’s part of the essence of this network of
islands. It’s not about how much you can
jam pack into a small amount of time. It’s
not about aligning things this way and
that. It’s about immersing yourself into
the way of life of the Vanuatu people.
Your loose plans will change. You’ll learn
about an activity that wasn’t listed online.
If you come with a vague idea but nothing
set in stone, you’ll leave yourself open to
the unexpected adventures that await in
Vanuatu. You’ll also see the most beautiful
side of the people who love to care and
share – so let them!
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 69

FEED YOUR ADDICTION
Like a ‘perfect storm’, we have seen a dramatic growth and
development in online stores over the past 5 years. Now as we are
made to keep our ‘distance’, online, ecommerce takes on a whole
new meaning and value. We are dedicating these pages to our client’s
online stores; some you will be able to buy from, some you will be able
drool over. Buy, compare, research and prepare, these online stores are
a great way to feed your adventure addiction while you are still at home.
Ultra lightweight running shoes, made by runners. No
matter where the trail takes you, Hoka One One will
have you covered.
www.hokaoneone.co.nz
Earth Sea Sky has more than 25 years experience
in New Zealand’s outdoor clothing industry. Their
experience in design, production and sales fills a
growing need in the market for outdoor clothing that
combined comfort, style and performance.
www.earthseasky.co.nz
Never have a dead phone
again! Because now you can
charge straight from the Sun
with SunSaver. Perfect for
that week-long hike, day at
the beach, or back-up for any
emergency. Check us out at:
www.sunsaver.co.nz
A leading importer and
distributor of snow and
outdoor products in New
Zealand. Stock includes
Salewa, Lange, Dynastar,
Spyder and more.
www.bobo.co.nz
Bivouac Outdoor stock the latest in quality outdoor
clothing, footwear and equipment from the best
brands across New Zealand & the globe.
www.bivouac.co.nz
Shop for the widest range of Merrell footwear, apparel
& accessories across hiking, trail running, sandals &
casual styles. Free shipping for a limited time.
www.merrell.co.nz
The ultimate sandals
with core concepts like
durability, pull through
strap design and the ability
to re-sole.
www.chacos.co.nz
Full-service outfitter selling hiking
and mountaineering gear and
apparel, plus equipment rentals.
Specialising in ski & snowboard
touring equipment new & used;
skis, boards, bindings, skins,
probs, shovels,transceivers &
avalanche packs.
www.smallplanetsports.com
Whether you’re climbing mountains, hiking in the hills
or travelling the globe, Macpac gear is made to last
and engineered to perform — proudly designed and
tested in New Zealand since 1973.
www.macpac.co.nz
The ultimate in quality outdoor clothing
and equipment for travel, hiking, camping,
snowsports, and more. Guaranteed for life.
www.marmotnz.co.nz
Developing the pinnacle
of innovative outerwear for
50 years. Shop now and
never stop exploring.
www.thenorthface.co.nz
Gear up in a wide selection of durable, multifunctional
outdoor clothing & gear. Free Returns. Free Shipping.
www.patagonia.co.nz
Offering the widest variety,
best tasting, and most
nutrient rich hydration,
energy, and recovery
products on the market.
www.guenergy.co.nz
Fast nourishing freeze dried food for adventurers.
www.backcountrycuisine.co.nz
Stocking an extensive range
of global outdoor adventure
brands for your next big
adventure. See them for travel,
tramping, trekking, alpine and
lifestyle clothing and gear.
www.outfittersstore.nz
Specialists in the sale of Outdoor Camping Equipment, RV,
Tramping & Travel Gear. Camping Tents, Adventure Tents,
Packs, Sleeping Bags and more.
www.equipoutdoors.co.nz
Jetboil builds super-dependable
backpacking stoves and camping
systems that pack light,
set up quick, and achieve
rapid boils in minutes.
www.jetboilnz.co.nz
Supplying tents and
camping gear to Kiwis
for over 30 years, Kiwi
Camping are proud to
be recognised as one of
the most trusted outdoor
brands in New Zealand.
www.kiwicamping.co.nz
MTOUTDOORS
Outdoor equipment store specialising in ski retail, ski
rental, ski touring and climbing.
www.mtoutdoors.co.nz
Making great gear for the outdoors,
right here in New Zealand: high
quality items that have been
crafted with care to include all the
features that are important, nothing
superfluous and, above all, that
are more durable than anything out
there in the marketplace.
www.cactusoutdoors.co.nz
Choose your perfect holiday accommodation from the
largest selection of pre-serviced holiday homes, baches,
and apartments available for rent in New Zealand. Book
instantly online with Bachcare's real-time availability.
www.bachcare.co.nz
Excellent quality Outdoor
Gear at prices that can't
be beaten. End of lines.
Ex Demos. Samples. Last
season. Bearpaw. Garneau.
Ahnu. Superfeet.
www.adventureoutlet.co.nz
70//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#223 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 71

Xmas gift GUIDE
Hydro Flask 8L Insulated Tote
The lightweight insulation keeps your snacks
cold for up to 4 hours with a fully-lined interior
for easy clean-up’s. Coated fabric is waterproof
and durable.
RRP $99.99
WWW.HYDROFLASK.CO.NZ/
PRODUCTS/8L-LUNCH-TOTE
Outdoor Research
Helium Rain
Uses Pertex® Shield with Diamond
Fuse Technology for durable
lightweight waterproof protection.
The jacket to pack when you
are after shaving weight without
compromising performance. Five
times more tear resistant than the
Helium II and lighter in weight,
completely waterproof yet breathable
and able to be stowed in its chest
pocket with a carabiner loop to
enable you to hang it off your pack
or harness for easy access..
RRP $299.99
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ
Rab Momentum Shorts
The Momentum Shorts are light
and robust with a quick dry time
and full freedom of movement.
From steep climbs up jagged
peaks to traversing ridges,
designed for covering greater
distances at pace. Made from
lightweight but durable Matrix
double weave fabric they offer
full freedom of movement when
hiking, running or scrambling
in the mountains. Treated with
a DWR these shorts will repel
water during light showers and
dry quickly.
RRP $99.95
WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ
Outdoor Research Sun Runner Cap
This versatile cap can be worn with
or without the removable, adjustable
skirt. Attach to give you shelter from
the harsh sun or remove when you just
want a cap. It's made from lightweight
fabric with UPF 30+ sun protection.
Mesh side panels allows air flow over
the sides of your head.
RRP $44.90
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ
Outdoor Research Performance Trucker Cap
Go with the Flow! Breathable, lightweight,
quick-drying cap with a comfortable FlexFit®
110 construction and a floating, water-resistant
performance. Just what you need to keep sun and
water off your face or adventuring on water.
RRP $49.95
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ
Marmot PreCip ECO Rain Jacket
Meet the lightweight PreCip Eco Rain Jacket.
The waterproof/breathable, PFC-free Marmot
NanoPro recycled nylon face fabric lasts longer
than ever, thanks to the advanced technology of
our microporous coating. Sturdier, more durable
than ever, and with a patented dry-touch finish, this
packable water-repelling jacket that stuffs into its
own pocket will become an everyday piece that you
can feel good in and about. It's topped off with an
updated fit and the same fully functional features
you love, like a stowable hood, adjustable hem, and
heat-releasing PitZips. The DriClime-lined chin
guard wicks away moisture to help prevent chafing.
RRP $199.95 (Wm’s Plus $249.95)
WWW.MARMOTNZ.CO.NZ
Rab Arc Jacket
Mans and womens Pertex Shield® 3
layer rain jacket offers rain and weather
proofing as well as stretch. Easily
packable, helmet-compatible hood and
easily accessible A-line chest pockets,
perfect for year-round use in uncertain
weather conditions.
RRP $399.95
WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ
Outdoor Research
ActiveIce Sun Sleeves
Built from an innovative fabric
that cools you as it wicks away
perspiration and provides UPF 50+
protection from New Zealand’s harsh
sun. A must-have for paddlers, trail
runners, trampers and anyone else
who spends serious time in the sun.
RRP $39.90
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ
Rab Momentum Pull-on
The Momentum Pull-On is
designed for those looking for
that extra layer of protection in
varied conditions.Made from
durable, wind-resistant Matrix
softshell with a UPF50+, this
versatile layer protects from
both the wind and sun while
highly breathable Motiv side
panels ensure full freedom of
movement. Ideal for breezy
MTB days.
RRP $139.95
WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ
Patagonia Men's Baggies Shorts - 5 In
These rugged, multifunctional shorts are designed for use in
and out of the water. Made with quick-drying 100% recycled
nylon, they are Fair Trade Certified sewn.
RRP $79.99
WWW.PATAGONIA.CO.NZ
72//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#223 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 73

Back Country Cuisine
CHICKEN CARBONARA: A freeze dried
chicken and pasta dish, served in a creamy
italian style sauce. Available in small serve
90g or regular serve 175g sizes.
MUSHROOM BOLOGNAISE - VEGAN:
Mushrooms with tomato in a savory sauce,
served with noodles. Available in small
serve 90g or regular serve 175g sizes.
RRP $9.29 and $13.89
CHOCOLATE BROWNIE PUDDING: Our
take on chocolate self-saucing pudding,
with chocolate brownie, boysenberries and
chocolate sauce. Gluten Free. Available in
regular serve.
RRP 150g $12.89
WWW.BACKCOUNTRYCUISINE.CO.NZ
Jetboil Flash 2.0
BOIL IN SECONDS, NOT MINUTES
Blistering boil times come standard on
our industry-leading Flash. By modelling
the combustion and selecting materials
to optimize efficiency, we were able to
create the fastest Jetboil ever — cutting
a full minute off our best boil time.
RRP $249.95
WWW.JETBOILNZ.CO.NZ
Jetboil MiniMo
It's about cooking. MiniMo
delivers UNMATCHED simmer
control, metal handles, and a
low spoon angle for easy eating!
Starting with the innovative new
valve design, MiniMo delivers
the finest simmer control of any
upright canister system on the
market.
RRP $329.95
WWW.JETBOILNZ.CO.NZ
FUELING EPIC
ADVENTURES
SINCE 1998
Wherever your next
adventure is about to
lead you, we’ve got
the goods to keep you
going.
Back Country Cuisine
ICED MOCHA: Our mocha is made with
chocolate and coffee combined with soft
serve to give you a tasty drink on the run.
Gluten Free. 85g.
RRP $4.09
WWW.BACKCOUNTRYCUISINE.CO.NZ
Deep creek undercurrent
AWARD WINNING PILSNER
ABV: 5.0%
330ml Cans I 6 Packs
50L Kegs I 30L Key Kegs
Trophy for Best International
Lager at the Australian
International Beer Awards 2019!
This New Zealand pilsner is
derived from the traditional
Czech style. Brewed with pilsner
malt and cold-fermented with
lager yeast; but that's where the
tradition ends. We use all New
Zealand hops and put most of
them late in the brew to promote
more hop flavour and aroma
than you would expect from a
traditional pilsner.
Crisp and clean with a distinctive
New Zealand hop character.
Available in local liquor stores or
supermarkets.
WWW.DEEPCREEK.CO.NZ
Deep creek Señorita
Chilli Hazy IPA
ABV: 6.5%
This is one beautiful
Senorita. Pouring a vibrant
thick golden hue, like mango
nectar, this sweet thing has
a fiery edge, from our own
chilli oil. The base of malted
barley, wheat and oats are
painted with a mixture of NZ
and American hops giving
sensual tropical flavours of
mango, balanced with citrus
and a hint of passionfruit.
Sink into the soulful eyes
of this Senorita and spice
up your life. Available
in local liquor stores or
supermarkets.
WWW.DEEPCREEK.CO.NZ
Gasmate 3L Watertech Portable Hot Water
System
Heats up to 3 litres per minute and features
adjustable temperature and water flow settings.
Handheld showerhead, gas fitting, automatic
ignition, and LED temperature display screen.
RRP $499.00
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ
sea to summit X Kettle 1.3L
The X-Kettle is a tiny addition to your kit, collapsing to 35mm. A
1.0L safe boiling capacity is perfect for a cup of tea or cocoa on
the trail. With the increasing popularity of freeze dried food the
X-Kettle is all you need for two warm meals in one boil.
RRP $69.99
WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ/SEA-TO-SUMMIT
KIWI CAMping Aura LED Lantern
with Bluetooth Speaker
3 gadgets in 1 device. Bluetooth music
from up to 10 metres away. 5 lighting
modes including strobe and flashing.
And a quick charge USB output that
charges most devices.
RRP $99.99
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ
Est. 1998 Back Country
Cuisine specialises in
a range of freeze-dried
products, from tasty
meals to snacks and
everything in between, to
keep your energy levels up
and your adventures wild.
backcountrycuisine.co.nz
Sunsaver Classic 16,000mAh
Solar Power Bank
Built tough for the outdoors and
with a massive battery capacity
you can keep all your devices
charged no matter where your
adventure takes you.
RRP: $119.00
WWW.SUNSAVER.CO.NZ
Sunsaver Super-Flex 14-Watt
Solar Charger
Putting out over 2.5-Amps of output
on a sunny day you’ll charge your
phone and devices in no time at all,
straight from the sun.
RRP: $199.00
WWW.SUNSAVER.CO.NZ
Jetboil fuel
Jetpower fuel contains a blend of propane and iso-butane.
Propane provides higher vapour pressure to the fuel which
means better performance in cold weather. Fuel efficiency
translates to weight, space, and money savings.
RRP $7.99 - $16.99
WWW.JETBOILNZ.CO.NZ
gasmate High Output Cooker & Pot Set
Feed the masses on the go. Monitor and control the temperature
easily. All parts pack away into the 20L aluminium stock pot, then
into the carry bag.
RRP $249.00
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ

sea to summit Aeros Premium Pillow
A luxurious high-performance pillow without the weight
and bulk. Perfect for travel and camping where you can
risk a couple more grams for a great night's sleep. The
pillowcase construction allows the outer shell to retain
maximum softness while still being supported by a high
strength TPU bladder.
RRP $64.99
WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ/SEA-TO-SUMMIT
Hydro Flask 12oz & 20oz Food Jars
Our NEW 12oz (354mL) and 20oz
(591mL) Insulated Food Jars keep food at
the perfect temperature, no matter where
your travels take you.
RRP $69.99-$79.99
WWW.HYDROFLASK.CO.NZ/
COLLECTIONS/FOOD
Deuter Drybags
40D Ripstop PA, 10,000mm waterproof
1, 5, 8, 15, 20, 30Litre options
These Deuter - German designed lightweight drybags offer
maximum protection for your gear from the elements. A simple
roll top closure & D loop for additional security, welded seams
on a strong but lightweight fabric keeps your gear dry & secure
on any adventure.
RRP $19.95 – $49.95
WWW.MOUNTAINADVENTURE.CO.NZ
Nemo Helio Pressure Shower
The Nemo Helio is a compact & portable
shower option. With 5 – 7 minutes of
water, you can enjoy a wash anywhere.
A quick foot pump for pressure means it
doesn’t need gravity to work. Clean dog,
clean gear, clean you!
RRP $219.95
WWW.MOUNTAINADVENTURE.CO.NZ
KIWI CAMping Rover Lite Self-Inflating Mat
Compressible foam core inflates/deflates with the
twist of a valve. Tapered mummy design fits in
most sleeping bags. Durable soft stretch fabric for
extra comfort. Weight: 900gm
RRP $99.99
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ
Hydro Flask 64oz (1.9L) Wide Mouth
Summer calls for BIG adventures, so we
created a flask that holds enough fluid to
keep the whole crew hydrated for the day!
RRP $129.99
WWW.HYDROFLASK.CO.NZ/
COLLECTIONS/WIDE-MOUTH/
PRODUCTS/64OZ-1-9L-WIDE-MOUTH
goodbye ouch sun balm
Finally, a certified natural sunscreen
that is high performance AND that was
a joy to use. Six years in development,
outdoor guides and product makers
John and Becky created a world first
suncreen formulation. This is one
you can rely on. With high water
resistance, it will protect you in water
environments and not run into eyes
when you sweat. It is fully tested to
the New Zealand sunscreen standard,
certified natural by NATRUE and
with its cocoa butter and coconut oils
it smells amazing and glides over
skin to give smooth, clear protective
coverage. It is a water-free formula
giving antioxidant support in efficient
applications and small carry sizes for
life outdoors.Available in supermarkets
and health stores in New Zealand, or
online at www.goodbye.co.nz
Nalgene Water Bottles - on the fly 650ml / Tritan Wide
Mouth / Tritan Narrow Mouth 500ml
BPA Free, Impact Resistant,
Withstands -135degrees - +135degrees, 500ml – 1 Litre
The Original Water Bottle for every adventure. Brilliantly
practical and virtually indestructible these bottles are designed
for the outdoors and will fit any lifestyle!
RRP $24.95 - $29.95
WWW.MOUNTAINADVENTURE.CO.NZ
Less weight.
More Trailblazing.
Introducing Trail Series - 25% Lighter.
With TempShield insulation.
KIWI CAMping Fave Chair
Compact and lightweight
camping and events chair.
Padded double-layer
400/600D polyester, sturdy
steel frame, adjustable
arms, and cup holder.
Supplied with carry bag.
Weight limit: 100kg.
helinox chair zero
CHAIR ZERO will never make
you choose between comfort and
weight. Smaller and lighter than
a water bottle, it's what your body
craves at the end of a long day of
trekking.
• The lightest Helinox chair at
490g
• Compact size & featherweight
design makes for an easy
carry
• Easy to assemble with single
shock corded pole structure
• Frame constructed from DAC
aluminum poles
• Seat made from Ripstop
Polyester
• Backed by a 5 year warranty
RRP $199.99
RRP $79.99
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ
WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ/HELINOX

Macpac Epic HyperDRY Down
600 Sleeping Bag
A lightweight alpine sleeping bag,
the mummy-shaped Epic 600
features water-resistant 800 loft
HyperDRY RDS goose down
and ultralight Pertex® Quantum
fabric. It has horizontal baffles, a
laminated draft tube and a down
collar with a recessed drawcord. It
comes with a waterproof vacuum
seal sack and large mesh storage
sack. Temperature Rating: comfort
-5°C, limit -12°C, extreme -32°C.
Weight: 1091 g (ISO 23537-1
tested and weighed STD size)
RRP $899.99
WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ
Marmot Never Winter down Sleeping Bag
The Never Winter Sleeping Bag is ideal for warmweather
camping and river trips—with added upgrades
that’ll keep you comfortable even when you’re far
from home. Its lofty 650-fill-power-down insulation and
water-resistant Down Defender treatment will keep you
warm and dry in mild conditions. After an epic day of
adventuring, give your feet a rest in the roomy wraparound
footbox with a heater pocket. Stretch tricot baffles
help keep the fill in place, while the nautilus multi-baffle
hood with a drawcord and full-length two-way zipper with
a draft tube limit heat loss. If the interior gets too warm,
use the fold-down secondary zipper to get some air. Tuck
small items into the internal stash pocket.
EN Temperature Rating: Comfort 3.6°C / Lower Limit
-1.7°C / Extreme -17.8°
RRP $499.00 (LONG $549.00)
WWW.MARMOTNZ.CO.NZ
RAB MYTHIC 200 SLEEPING BAG
The pinnacle of innovation, the Mythic 200 Sleeping bag is
an ultra lightweight down sleeping bag with the best warmth
to weight ratio in the Rab range. Designed for mountain
activists looking to reduce weight while moving through
the mountains, for use in warmer conditions where weight
and packsize are crucial to success, such as long multi day
routes or summer trekking.
Pertex® Quantum 10 Denier Inner and Outer, 900FP R.D.S
Certified European Goose Down, Rab® Fluorocarbon free
Hydrophobic Down developed in conjunction with Nikwax®
Trapezoidal baffle chamber design, Mummy taper shape
Limit 1°C(34°F
Weight 475g
RRP $1099.95
WWW.RAB.EQUIPMENT
Marmot Trestles 30 Sleeping Bag
Don’t cancel your next overnight adventure just because the
forecast is calling for a little rain—bring the all-purpose Trestles 30
Sleeping Bag, built to perform in cool and damp conditions as you’re
backpacking, trekking, mountaineering, and more. SpiraFil highloft
insulation will keep you warm even when things get wet. After a
long day of exploring, zip up the full-length two-way zipper and give
your feet a rest in the roomy 3D footbox. Its wave-construction top
and blanket-construction bottom provide an unbeatable combo of
maximum loft, warmth, and comfort. If the interior gets too toasty,
use the fold-down secondary zipper to get some air. Tuck small
items into the stash pocket for easy access.
EN Temperature Rating: Comfort 2.3°C / Lower Limit -3.2°C /
Extreme -19.8°C
RRP $189.95
WWW.MARMOTNZ.CO.NZ
Marmot Catalyst 2P Tent
Designed as a roomy, livable tent that is still light
in weight, the freestanding Catalyst 2P has all
the ideal features for a casual camping trip, like
a seam-taped catenary cut floor, color-coded
poles for easy set-up and two D-shaped doors,
along with enough room and pockets to stash and
organize all your necessary gear.
Minimum Weight: 4lbs 11oz (2130g)
Maximum Weight: 5lbs 3oz (2360g)
Floor Area: 32.5 sq ft, 3.0 sq m
Vestibule Area: 9.5 sq ft, 0.88 sq m | 6.7 sq ft, 0.62
sq m
RRP $399.95
WWW.MARMOTNZ.CO.NZ
KIWI camping weka 2 Hiker Tent
Spacious two-person tent with vestibule and double entrances.
Fits in a backpack, ideal for all year-round hiking. 4000mm
aqua rated fly with SPF50 UV coating. 3-year warranty.
RRP $299.00
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ
78//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#223

salewa MOUNTAIN TRAINER MID GORE-TEX®
The MTN Trainer Mid GTX is a lightweight trekking boot with
a robust suede leather upper and a waterproof breathable
GORE-TEX® lining. The dual-density Bilight TPU midsole is
ergonomically shaped to provide extra flexibility and increased
comfort on both ascents and descents during alpine trekking
in mixed and technical terrain.
Fit: Standard / Weight (M) 700 g (W) 570 g
RRP $499.90
WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA
Chaco Z/CLOUD 2 Sandal
Want your Classic Sandals with pillow-top comfort, plus a toe
loop? Introducing our travel-ready Z/Cloud series, featuring our
same custom adjustable strap system, performance ChacoGrip?
rubber outsole, and a top layer of ultra-soft PU for instant-cushion
underfoot. Every pair comes standard with our podiatrist-certified
LUVSEAT PU footbed for all-day comfort and support. Step in and
feel the difference.
RRP $159.95
WWW.CHACOS.CO.NZ
TARGHEE III MID Men’s
Out of the box comfort for your outside the box adventures.
Our iconic hiking boot for men brings an updated look to
all-terrain adventures. We carried over the fit, durability, and
performance of our award-winning Targhee waterproof boot
and took its rugged looks to a new dimension. Key features:
• KEEN.DRY - A proprietary waterproof, breathable membrane
that lets vapor out without letting water in.
• METATOMICAL FOOTBED DESIGN - This internal support
mechanism is anatomically engineered to provide excellent
arch support and cradle the natural contours of the foot.
Available: Key outdoor retailers across New Zealand.
RRP $319.99
WWW.KEENFOOTWEAR.CO.NZ
Chaco Z/CLOUD Sandal
Want your Classic Sandals with pillow-top comfort? Introducing
our travel-ready Z/Cloud series, featuring our same custom
adjustable strap system, performance ChacoGripTM rubber
outsole, and a top layer of ultra-soft PU for instant-cushion
underfoot. Every pair comes standard with our podiatrist-certified
LUVSEATTM PU footbed for all-day comfort and support. Step in
and feel the difference.
RRP $159.95
WWW.CHACOS.CO.NZ
SALEWA CROW GORE-TEX®
The Crow GTX is a versatile boot designed for mixed use on
general alpine terrain, featuring an abrasion-resistant fabric
upper with a GORE-TEX ® Performance Comfort lining, a
semi-automatic crampon-compatible Vibram ® New Mulaz
outsole, and a full rubber rand for protection against rock and
scree.
Fit: Standard / Weight: (M) 675 g (W) 570 g
RRP $499.90
WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/BRANDS/SALEWA
SALEWA MOUNTAIN TRAINER 2 LEATHER
Our MTN Trainer 2 Leather is a robust low-cut alpine approach
shoe with a suede upper and a Vibram outsole made for heavy
use. Its hard-wearing upper has a full protective rubber rand
and a high-quality, supple and breathable full-grain leather
lining. The climbing lacing system can be fine-tuned at the toe,
while the expanded PU midsole provides long-lasting shock
absorbency and rebound. Fit: Standard / Weight: 499 g
RRP $399.90
WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/BRANDS/SALEWA
Chaco Odyssey Sandal
Overcome rivers, trails, and expectations. The allterrain,
closed-toe Odyssey sport sandal delivers the
durability of a hiker, the freedom of a barefoot trainer,
and the performance you need from land to water.
RRP $179.95
WWW.CHACOS.CO.NZ
TARGHEE III MID woMen’s
The Targhee Boot is ready for any hike, anytime. Our
iconic hiking boot for women brings an updated look to allterrain
adventures. We carried over the fit, durability, and
performance of our award-winning Targhee waterproof boot
and took its rugged looks to a new dimension. Key features:
• KEEN.DRY - A proprietary waterproof, breathable membrane
that lets vapor out without letting water in.
• METATOMICAL FOOTBED DESIGN - This internal support
mechanism is anatomically engineered to provide excellent
arch support and cradle the natural contours of the foot.
Available: Key outdoor retailers across New Zealand.
RRP $319.99
WWW.KEENFOOTWEAR.CO.NZ
salewa WILDFIRE EDGE GORE-TEX®
The Wildfire Edge GTX is an approach shoe that can be adapted
from hiking mode to climbing mode - Simply tighten the switch-fit
lacing system at the rear eyelet and then do them up. This way,
you pull your foot forward into the toebox, compressing your toes
like a climbing shoe. The Pomoca Speed MTN outsole offers
enhanced grip and friction in both dry and wet conditions.
Fit: Precise / Weight: (M) 437 g (W) 369 g
RRP $399.90
WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA
salewa WOMENS WILDFIRE
The Wildfire has a precise-fitting upper made from robust mesh
and our EXA Shell injected 3D cage for enhanced torsional
stability; this works together with our 3F system to wrap your foot
for flexibility, fit and firm ankle and heel support. The versatile
POMOCA Speed Mountain outsole offers grip, traction and surefooted
climbing precision on technical mountain approaches,
scrambles, traverses and climbs. Fit: STANDARD / Weight: (W)
330 g
RRP $299.90
WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA

OUR CAMP KITCHEN SET-UPS
CAMPING WITH MATES
You’ve got your mates
sorted with this set-up,
including the coffee.
• X-Brew Coffee Dripper
• DeltaLight Camp Set 2.2
2 Mugs / 2 Bowls / 2 Cutlery Sets
• Alpha / Sigma Pot 2.7L + 3.7L
• 10” Alpha Pan
Patagonia Black Hole Duffel 40L
Patagonia's smallest Black Hole® Duffel is perfect
for small loads and long weekends. It is made
with tough 100% recycled body fabric, lining and
webbing.
RRP $209.99
WWW.PATAGONIA.CO.NZ
RAB Expedition Kitbag 80
The Kitbag 80 is a hardwearing, heavy duty kitbag,
designed to keep your gear safe and withstand the rigors
of an expedition. Made using a tough and durable 600D
fabric and is coated with a water-resistant film. Triplestitched
seams and a double thickness base add further
to the ruggedness of the Kitbag. Contents are easily
accessible through a large, lockable main opening, and
there are even 2 internal pockets underneath the lid. For
transportation, there are two detachable shoulder straps,
4 handles and daisy-chain lash points. Ideal for high
altitude and polar expeditions, or for prolonged periods of
travel and trekking.
RRP $179.95
WWW. OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ
osprey Daylite Pack
Lightweight,
uncomplicated, durable
and with a comfortable
carry, Osprey’s Daylite
pack has proven to
be wildly popular. It
continues to serve well as an add-on pack for traveling as well as
standing on their own with their incredible versatility.
• Large panel-loading main compartment
• Attaches to a variety of compatible Osprey packs
• Side mesh pockets
• Front pocket with mesh organizer and key clip
• Spacermesh shoulder straps with integrated handle
• Multi-function interior sleeve for hydration or tablet
• Mesh-covered backpanel with slotted foam
• Available in Black, Real Red and Stone Grey
RRP $99.99
WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ/OSPREY/
WEEKEND TRIP FOR TWO
SUBSCRIBE
AND BE IN THE DRAW TO WIN ONE OF FIVE HYDRO FLASKS
This set-up works because
it’s so space efficient. It’s all
about packing and leaving as
quickly as we can when the
forecast is good.
• X-Pot 2.8l
• X-Pan + X-Kettle
• Delta Plates x 2
• Delta Cutlery x 2
• Insulmugs x 2
BUILD YOUR
CAMP
KITCHEN
Find a stockist: southernapproach.co.nz
osprey Hikelite 26 Pack
If you're looking for a simple pack that provides excellent comfort,
incredible ventilation, and added features like an integrated
raincover, the Hikelite 26 is the right pack for you.
• Integrated raincover
• Trekking pole attachment with upper compression strap
capture
• Internal hydration sleeve accommodates up to a 3L
reservoir
• Scratch resistant organization pocket for sunglasses and
electronics
• Stretch mesh side pockets for storing smaller items
• Upper side compression straps
• Sternum strap with whistle
• Removable webbing hipbelt
• Front shove it pocket
RRP $189.99
WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ/OSPREY/
Our Mission.
We make thoughtful, beautifully
designed gear that moves people.
Towards nature. Towards happy.
And towards each other.
Because life is an adventure
and we’re glad to be with you for
every step, sip, & smile along the way.
Come on. Let’s go!
www.hydroflask.co.nz
RRP: $45.00-$80.00
TO SUBSCRIBE VISIT WWW.ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ

An unlucky
beginning to a
350,000km long
journey!
By Bridget Thackwray
and Topher Richwhite
After meeting each other only two months earlier,
through a mix of reckless lust and spontaneous
adventure, we came up with an idea. Together,
we would drive the planet. Inspired by Gunther
Holtorff’s 24-year world tour, we put pen to paper
and drew up a 350,000km-long route through
all 7 continents and 90 countries. This would
become our life for the next 3 consecutive years.
Neither Topher nor I had any 4x4 experience,
mechanical background or overlanding history.
And with our departure date set for only one
month away, we knew we would have to learn on
the fly.
This quick departure turnaround also allowed us
to keep the entire expedition on the down-low,
with our friends and family back home in New
Zealand having near to no knowledge of our
3-year world tour. Our aim was to announce the
expedition on day one, from the most northern
point in the Americas.
We flew from Auckland to Vancouver, and finally
met our third companion on the expedition,
Gunther, a 2015 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon. After
one week he was packed, kitted out with little
more than a roof rack, and ready to go! We
turned ourselves north and began the drive to
Deadhorse, Alaska, our expedition starting point.
After 10 days, we reached the end of the road,
the distant mining town of Deadhorse. 700
miles earlier we had crossed over the arctic
circle, now deep within the northern slope. Here
temperatures were sitting between -15 and -30C.
Gunther was parked outside, and we were
happily perched within a cafeteria servicing the
oil drillers in the area. With no cellular signal, this
became our Wifi hub to announce the expedition
to all of our friends and family back home.
Our trusty Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, Gunther
84//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#223 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 85

Shipping our Jeep - Visiting Eagle
Right: Torres Del Paine in Chile
With nervous excitement, and completely out
of our comfort zones, we launched Expedition
Earth at 8pm on April the 8th 2018. Our website
was uploaded, Instagram launched, Facebook
status posted, timer began and Garmin GPS
live tracker turned on. Our message was
clear, 'Follow the expedition as we head south,
starting NOW', accompanied by our live tracker
GPS link.
Once Expedition Earth was live, adrenaline
started to pump. The expedition had begun and
we felt as though we were all of a sudden on
center stage. The comments were flooding in,
and the live tracker views began to climb.
It was time to begin leg 1 of 3, our drive south
from Alaska to Argentina.
We rushed to Gunther, gave each other a hug
and kiss, turned the ignition and... nothing. A
little laugh, “imagine that”, and tried once more.
Nothing. We knew that if the car was sitting idle
in these temperatures, it would be necessary
to plug into a block heater. We hadn’t expected
the entire battery to drain within an hour. We
checked the systems and quickly realized that
Topher had left the light bar on.
We were suddenly excited by the challenge
we were facing. We had bought a few recovery
products in Vancouver and were eager to put
them to the test.
After only a few minutes, just enough time for
the cafeteria staff to have fully cleared out, we
noticed our portable jump starter kit we had
bought in Vancouver had drained its battery
from the cold. Sitting in -30C temperatures with
frozen hands, we were not going anywhere in a
hurry.
With the freezing temperatures and sudden
influx of calls and messages from friends and
family, our phone batteries quickly died too.
Unfortunately, the live tracker was still going
strong.
Trying to find someone to help jumpstart a
car at 10pm in the arctic circle can be quite a
challenge, especially if you expect your rescue
party to be sober! Our knight in shining armor
turned up in a brand new red Tundra. As his
window came down, we were face to face with
someone who looked and smelt like a modernday
pirate. The man rolled out of the driver’s
seat and was so inebriated he had forgotten
how to pop his own hood.
After an irritable length of time, Topher finally
managed to locate the hood latch. Gunther had
been resuscitated and we were back in action!
With our energy now a little low, and the
realization of mechanical experience being
reasonably critical, we tried not to mention
the collective feeling of being a little out of our
depth.
Looking at the clock, we had now gone from
8pm to 10.45pm. We wouldn’t make our target
destination for the night, and this was only
the first day of the 1,195 more days to come.
Hungry, cold and tired, we decided to make
camp just outside Deadhorse.
86//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#223 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 87

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JEEP WRANGLER RUBICON
The iconic Jeep Wrangler Rubicon is true to its heritage
combining capable features with updated design and
materials to deliver luxury and refinement while proudly
maintaining the iconic Jeep Wrangler look. Embracing
the ‘Go Anywhere, Do Anything’ attitude, this vehicle is
positioned as an outstanding off roader, who’s capabilities
mean it can tackle the toughest of terrains when required.
‘Heaphy’ has been fitted with over ten of the most capable
genuine Mopar accessories available for this model. This
ensures ‘Heaphy’ has what it needs to take on the tough
New Zealand terrains during the winter months with ease.
With over 70 safety features available on the vehicle
and fitted with the legendary 3.6-litre Pentastar V6 Petrol
Engine, ZF 8-Speed Automatic Transmission and Selec-
Trac® 4x4 system, the Jeep Wrangler Rubicon continues
the legacy of the original Willys MB and marking the next
stage in the history of the world’s first 4x4.
www.jeep.co.nz
Entering Antarctica
After finding a spot 30 minutes
out of town, we began to set
ourselves up for the cold night
ahead. For the arctic regions
of our expedition, our plan was
to sleep inside the Jeep, and
then use a tent for the warmer
climates. Topher began to set up
our beds inside Gunther, while I
prepared dinner.
What we didn’t realize was that in
-30C our food sitting on the back
seat of the car had frozen solid.
Not only this, but our drinking and
cooking water was now a solid
block of ice, and the propane gas
from our gas cooker had turned
to liquid.
1am, we were lying in bed, our
live tracker proudly pinging
our location to everyone back
home as just 27kms beyond
Deadhorse. Cold, hungry and
nervous for our 7-continent
journey ahead, we began asking
questions. Have we made the
biggest mistake of our lives? Will
we ever get our savings back if
we sold everything tomorrow?
How are we going to survive this?
…. One Year Later ….
Topher is outside setting up
camp while the 40C heat of
Namibia is working its way inside
Gunther. In 2018, we covered
the Americas in 8 months, with
only one tire puncture, no more
flat batteries, never running out
of fuel, not having lost anything
and not a single bump or scratch
on Gunther. Leg 2 had begun
only a few weeks earlier, leading
up Eastern Africa, through the
Middle East to the most northern
drivable point of Europe.
Expedition Earth has been
the most brilliant and exciting
decision of our lives.
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 89

frozen
Fernanda Maciel could have been forgiven for
never gracing the Matterhorn. She has known
personal tragedy on the mountain and feared she
had gone blind when her eyes were frozen shut
climbing it. But the Brazilian ultra-runner returned to
tackle it with Gran Paradiso in just one day earlier
this year.
"I froze my eyes and spent three days in
hospital. I couldn’t open my eyes and I
was alone for three days in this bed."
After achieving the feat, she talked about the
most emotional of challenges, her battles for the
environment and why the former gymnast Nadia
Comaneci is her ultimate sporting hero.
You recently tackled the Matterhorn in one day
after summiting Gran Paradiso. How much of
a challenge was that? For me, the Matterhorn
was a more emotional challenge. You need to
be very fit and it’s technical but that was ok. The
emotional challenge was the worst. I lost friends
on the mountain and I had to start to do therapy
and psychological work concerning the Matterhorn.
I lost Gonzalo [her flatmate] – we had dinner one
day before and I was leaving for a race in Austria.
I arrived there and a colleague said a big rock had
fallen and killed Gonzalo and his English client.
That had a big impact on me and I couldn’t race
well.
And you’ve had your own personal traumas on
the Matterhorn too? Yes, I had an accident when
I froze my eyes and spent three days in hospital.
I couldn’t open my eyes and I was alone for three
days in this bed. I was in this hospital where no
one spoke English. But the second day an Italian
nurse and I could speak and she got my mobile
to call a friend and explain that I was there. That
time I thought I was becoming blind – the scariest
moment of my life.
So, what made you go back to conquer it? It’s
a super dangerous mountain but I had to go back.
Three days before this project I tried to climb it to
see if was able to do it but I had to stop at 4,500
metres because of fears and I started to cry. I still
had fears in my mind and I needed to go down. But
I decided to go on with the project as I had to face
this story even though I was 90% sure I could not
climb the Matterhorn. It was important to try – very
personal. At the top, the liberation was amazing –
the best feeling ever, that freedom, that wonderful
flow.
I take it you’ll stay away from there now! I will
not come back, no not at all! I had been choosing
between the Thursday and the Friday and chose
Thursday. On the Friday, a helicopter had to rescue
20 alpinists because of a landslide. I had so much
luck on what’s a dangerous mountain. There’s so
many rock falls there with climate change.
Fernanda Maciel tackling the Matterhorn
Image compliments of Red Bull Photo Pool

THE VANLIFE HACKS
By Jessica Middleton
Christmas is upon us, you know how
the saying goes, good things come in
small packages. A van home may be
considered little, this doesn’t mean that
the ideas that come with it can’t be big.
Vanlife is having the freedom and
knowing that all your NEEDS are in
one space. However, this also means
you are sometimes unable to bring all
the little extras that you WANT. Why
not aim for the best of both? Being the
time of giving, what better way than to
provide you with an Advan calendar?
Heres 25 Vanlife Hacks that you may
want to consider for your upcoming
holidays.
1. Store clothes in your cushions - You
will reap more rewards out of stuffing
cushions this year than Christmas
stockings. This is for all those who
cannot bear to part with all your fashion
pieces. Different locations result in
alternate climates across your journey.
Multiple clothing choices are a must,
am I right? When your partner tells
you not to pack that item, tell em to get
stuffed.
"Vanlife is having the freedom and
knowing that all your NEEDS are in one
space. However, this also means you are
sometimes unable to bring all the little
extras that you WANT."
5. GasBuddy APP. Fuel is the
highest expense of vanlife living, so
it pays to download a fuel app that
shows nearby petrol prices where
you can obtain the best price.
Being active on the app provides
an idea of average fuel costs along
your route so you can budget
accordingly.
6. Latches. Without them, you are
going to experience an around
of applause every time you hit a
bump or dip in the road. Sarcastic
and annoying. Ensure all your
cupboards and drawers are
secured shut with quality latches
and soft closing drawers.
you're travelling outback Australia,
flynet hats are a must. They will
drive you insane otherwise. Flys will
attach to your eyeballs, explore up
your nose, and even dive-bomb the
back of your throat. Not kidding.
10. Use clear storage bins and
labels. Being able to capture
snippets of colour or texture
through a storage bin is going
to save you time and frustration.
Labelling ensures each item has
an allocated home, which in turn
makes for a satisfyingly organised
and tidy van. Remember you're
only cheating yourself if you put
items back in the wrong box.
2. Store togs, underwear, and socks
in mesh bags. You want to keep these
little gems separated before they get
engulfed by your other clothes. Skinny
dipping is not for all.
3. Velcro down or use gel pads on
ornaments and use Rubber Mats to
help items from sliding. Shake rattle
and roll, your van may like to get down
and boogie but the contents inside get
way too excited and end up crashing
the party.
4. Reversible Throws. My favourites
are from Salty Aura and Wanderingfolk.
Throws can act as bedspread, picnic
rug, table-cloth, skirt, towel, or wall
hanging. The choices are unlimited and
having the dual colour schemes adds
a little sugar and spice to your mobile
home.
7. Adjustable Bench Space. Have
the ability to add extra space when
needed. We have two easy to
assemble benchtops that fold out
and connect to latches that we
utilise for food preparation.
8. 12 Volt Chargers For Electronics.
Weather changes and sometimes
you may not always have access to
solar power. Install 12Volt chargers
that don't require your generator
or solar to be on. That way you
can still use your phone on those
rainy days when you want your
electronics the most.
9. Mosquito & Fly Nets. How are
you meant to enjoy anything when
you're being eaten alive? Bunnings
stocks some very decent mosquito
nets that are perfect for vans. If
11. Travellers Mug And Compact
Cookware. Find cups that can
be used for both hot cuppas and
cold bevies. Pots and pans can
take up a load of space, you will
benefit from an all in one stackable
cookware.
12. Portable Stereo. Radio isn't
always an option out on the open
road. It's epic to be able to take
down to bonfires on the beach at
night.
13. Hooks to hang wet clothing. If
you have some long-term travel
coming up ahead, chances are
you're going to have wet clothing
that can't always be dried outside.
You can install hooks and even
have a detachable clothesline when
required.
92//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#223 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 93

STAY AT ADVENTURE LODGE, NATIONAL PARK
14. Build using appropriate materials. We are talking sticker
tiles, laminate flooring, and VJ board. The aim is to keep
your vehicle as light as possible. Having ceramic tiles over
a large area can weigh up and with a van moving they have
the potential to crack. Laminate flooring is easy to assemble,
durable, lightweight, well priced and ours still has no wear
and tear. VJ board is flexible and lightweight perfect for van
walls.
15. Hanging fruit and veggie hammock. Storing fruit and veg
in cupboards or in drawers means they are going to bruise
easily. Hang in a market bag from a hook, goes together like
two peas in a pod.
16. Collapsible storage containers - Saving space is the
game to play with vanlife. We have dog bowls, measuring
cups, containers, and even a pop-up basin. Don't forget
about the utensils that fold into one another or how useful a
spork can be.
TONGARIRO CROSSING SPECIAL
• 2 x nights accommodation in a lodge budget room
($220 each) or self contained apartment ($275 each
person) – min two persons!
• 2 x cooked breakfasts
• 2 x breakfasts on the run (bacon, egg and cheese in
an English muffin) orange juice and breakfast biscuits
– perfect to take to the crossing – sit on a rock and
look at the views!! /2 x cut gourmet cut lunches and
all the water you can carry! / 2 x complimentary shuttle
rides to the crossing – return trip! / 2 x hot spa’s
after the Crossing!
• Free unlimited wifi!
Facilities include: Bar fully licienced on premises, room
service of a meat, cheese and bread platter after the
crossing (extra cost of $45 per platter or $75 platter with
a bottle of wine included) to be paid upon ordering.
Bed and Breakfast
Budget Lodge Accommodation
Self-Contained Motel Units
Packages available for skiing and Tongariro Crossing
www.adventurelodge.co.nz | 0800 621 061
17. Interchangeable Day & Night area. Chances are if you
enjoy vanlife, you love exploring different areas, which leads
me to assume you appreciate variety in life too. Having the
ability to change between a lounge, dining room, and bed
for me is life-changing when spending a lot of time in a small
space.
18. Pull Out Storage. Have the ability to pull your storage out
from the back of your van. You will use your belongings far
more. We made the mistake of doing lift-top storage. Which
means to get to our storage you have to either take the
cushions completely off, no thank you, or hold it up with one
hand while hoping for the best with the other.
19. Eco Friendly biodegradable wipes. Okay, you are all
thinking about it, but it seems to be a taboo topic. Sometimes
you can go days between sites without a shower or access
to water. If you're involved with vanlife chances are your trips
are surrounded by rivers, creeks, and oceans but on the odd
chance, you aren't. Biodegradable wipes are your go-to option
and can clean your van too. Which leads me to the next hack.
20. Join a gym with multiple clubs
across the country. Surprisingly some
memberships are relatively cheap. Time
to burn off the Christmas tucker we all
overindulge in and take advantage of the
shower facilities. Winning
21. CamperMate / NZMCA or
WikiCamps Aus is the Australian
equivalent. This is seriously your van
bible, providing you with all the works
such as freedom camping locations,
reviews, trails, internet hotspots. Just get
it, trust me.
22. Solar Panels. Why would you not take
advantage of these sun-loving creatures?
Since when does someone work for free
and not complain about it? You may not
always use electronics but your fridge is
a little more demanding.
23. Heatshields. Windows are moody
little things and can take it out on your
vehicle. One minute they have it piping
hot, next stone cold. Insulating can only
help so much and having heat shields will
aid in balancing out the mood swings.
24. Google Maps. Yes, you may know
that google maps provides directions, but
are you taking advantage of the 'save
location' feature? My vanlife experience
went up a whole new level when I started
saving all the places I wanted to visit
straight into this app. Why? No more
making lists and checking them twice, I
have everything I need in this one app -
the destination with the directions! There
are often times you will be keen on hitting
the road but unsure where to go, now
all you have to do is open your saved
locations and let the pins lead the way.
PS- If you are using Instagram and see a
tagged location you like, just click it and it
will open it up straight into google maps
where you can instantly save it. How
convenient.
25. Fairy Lights - We live for the magic
moments in life, having battery operated
fairy lights creates an entire vibe in your
van. It saves power by not using your
generator and replaces harsh lights with
a soft glow. A perfect way to enjoy a
vanlife Christmas this year.
Merry Christmas!
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 95

A C T I V E
a d v e n t u r e
The best handmade crocheted hacky sacks
you can buy!
SEAPA NZ
P.O. Box 104, Whangamata, 3643
p: 027 451 8255 e: dave@seapa.co.nz
www.seapa.co.nz
Enjoy All Press coffee,
gourmet meals, freshly
squeezed juices, and
home baking from the
tranquil courtyard.
Enjoy a relaxing
atmosphere with some
fish n’ chips and tap beers.
Or, if in a rush, grab some
yummy takeaways!
4/4 Buckingham Street, Arrowtown
p: 03 442 0227 e: unwind_cafe@hotmail.com
www.unwindcafe.co.nz
Your mobile
power solution
www.sunsaver.co.nz
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A: 19 Rifle Range Road, Taupo 3330 | T: +64 7 378 7174 | F: +64 7 378 7555 | M: +64 21 800 118
E: stay@acapulcotaupo.co.nz W: www.acapulcotaupo.co.nz

OPEN TO
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