The Luxury Network International Magazine Issue 24

The monochrome silhouettes
imagined by Kim Jones
walked a runway framed
by references to ancient Rome in
F-shaped glass boxes. In this contemporary
museum décor, the
vestiges of antiquity focused a
spotlight on contrasts between
heritage, savoir-faire and ultra-modernity.
Kim Jones found inspiration
in the wardrobes of the five
Fendi sisters, “a powerful dynasty”
that energized the development
of the family house by recruiting
Karl Lagerfeld in 1965. A palette of
camel, powdery pink, taupe, olive
green and marble white referenced
the different generations of Fendi
women. The final silhouettes in
sophisticated black were a nod to
Delfina Delettrez Fendi, who wore
a black tuxedo at her first meeting
with Kim Jones. A fourth generation
member of the family, she
embodies the Maison’s creative future.
For the show she introduced a
new range of Fendi O’Lock jewelry,
an update on the iconic logo in the
form of padlocks that can only be
opened by dialing FENDI.
“The Fendi family are women of
intellect who work hard – and
that’s what I wanted to celebrate,”
said Kim Jones. In an ongoing dialogue
with them, the artistic director
gave Silvia Venturini Fendi the
idea of reappropriating the family
“F” to create a bag. With its tilted
initial “F”, the Fendi First bag was a
highlight accessory, presented in
myriad variations, from a jewelry
micro pouch on a chain to a clutch
in different leathers and exotics.
This new classic joins the Peekaboo
and Sunshine Shopper. Kim Jones’
new Roman empresses showcase
the savoir-faire of the House with
these luxurious accessories.
The spectacular quality of the materials
– from mink and leathers to
silk – impart an exceptional touch
to the women who wear them. Fendi
workshops meticulously embroidered
delicate organza and applied
exquisite embossed Selleria stitching
on leather accessories, as well
as the collars of garbardine trenches
and cashmere coats. Listening to
the needs of women, Kim Jones said
he wanted to create chic and timeless
pieces. The show had an air of
sensuality with plays of bare skin
at the shoulders and midriff. Legs
stood out in Karligraphy stockings
and ankles were lifted by heels with
an inverted Fendi logo inspired by a
Karl Lagerfeld archive sketch.
To cap this first ready-to-wear collection
for Fendi, Kim Jones took a
bow to the captivating song by Carl
Abrahamsson & Genesis Breyer
P-Orridge titled “S/He Is Her/E”, a
powerful echo of the artistic director’s
vision, exhorting viewers to
“change the world” and “embrace
the future with a kiss”.
The runway show and behind the
scenes videos of the décor and
backstage are posted on fendi.com.
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