Adventure Magazine Issue 227

N E W Z E A L A N D
ADVENTURE
WOMEN
ISSUE 227
AUG/SEP 2021
NZ $10.90 incl. GST
WHERE ACTIONS
SPEAK LOUDER
THAN WORDS

DO EPIC SH*T!
#227
Editor, Steve Dickinson with the "Reluctant Adventurer" on a recent trip to the South Island.
Read the full story on page 80
THE FUTURE
IS HERE
I don’t really know many hardcore female trampers, a few, but
not many. We know loads of other sportswomen, but not many
trampers. On Facebook, the seeming hub of all things, there is
a tramping group, and it is excellent, really helpful. People post
images and ask questions, and it's engaging and interesting. So
I put on there, quite casually, a post asking, if there were any
women who would like to write about their tramping adventures,
either on their own, with friends or family.
Well, that opened up my eyes to a range of things;
• How many female trampers there are out there!
• How serious are some of those adventures are!
• How keen they were to write and share their adventures!
We were overwhelmed with interest, stories ranging from
climbing Everest to learning how to overcome simply going
outside and everything in between. There was, however, one
woman who did write to me in a very ‘woke’ fashioned email
and ripped a strip off me for using the word mother, daughter,
girlfriend; she felt it was defining and demeaning by sexuality
rather than achievement, which was never the intent. But the
upside of feeling like maybe I had phrased something incorrectly
was that nearly every submission, and there were a lot, typically
started with 'I am a mother of 3' 'I am so and so’s girlfriend.' 'I am
the daughter of a well know tramping icon in Nelson’.
The main flavour that these editorials left you with was one of
accomplishment and self-ownership. The age range was huge,
from 6 to 90, and the submissions came from every corner of
New Zealand. We could not fit in every submission, and if yours
is not here, please keep your eye on the website and tramping
issue in October.
There is some editorial here about high-end high achieving,
amazing female athletes. but the central core of this issue,
high achieving or not, is New Zealand women out there are
embracing the message on Annabel Anderson's cap, ‘Do EPIC
Shit’.
Steve Dickinson - Editor
The women who contributed with their personal
tramping stories are identified by this logo:
TW
yoUr AdventUre staRts Here
The future is here. It’s asking us to be ready, to think bigger. To embrace the
trail ahead and bring everyone with us along the way. Today, we celebrate our
first 40 years by looking forward to the next. #MerrellFuture40
merrell.co.nz
23 Locations Nationwide - www.radcarhire.co.nz | 0800 73 68 23 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ | adventure@radcarhire.co.nz 01

Image supplied Image by a random stranger Image by Lauren Murray
Image compliments Annabel Anderson
page 08
page 14
page 80
page 86
contents
#227
08//The benefits of being a multi-trick pony
by Annabel Anderson
14//What defines you?
By Lauren Murray
18//Emilie's adventure to Angelus Hut
By Victoria Bruce
22//Keala Kennelly owns Red Bull Magnitude
By Jon Coen
26//Caitlin Fielder
Ultra-marathon runner and artist
30//Adversity at Altitude
By Tselane Mead
38//The Meaning of Tramping
By Charlie Ellis
40//Nancy Jiang
Smashing stereotypes
44//Solo Strength
By Erin Lockhart
48//Jenna Hastings
Mountain biker
52//From Michigan to Mountains
By Katarina Renaldi
56//North West Circuit
By Cristina Barraclough
60//Mt Oxford Odyssey Mum
By Vicky Havill
64//Belinda Stuart
Making colourful merino in NZ
80//The Reluctant Adventurer
By Teva Dickinson
86//Travel
Papua New Guinea
Vanuatu
plus
69. gear guides
96. active adventure
FOLLOW US ON
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www.adventuremagazine.co.nz
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JOIN THE CONVERSATION
#ADVENTUREMAGAZINE
ENJOYABLE TO THE LAST DROP.
#FORTHEADVENTURE
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02//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#227

BEHIND THE COVER
Where?
Mt Roy, Wanaka, New Zealand.
Annabel Anderson selfie on Roys Peak makes the cover in celebration of our women's issue.
Why Am I Here?
While I was racing professionally as a stand
up paddle athlete, each October I would make
the trek back across the Pacific to the Southern
Lakes of home. I would long to stand upon the
tops of hills and recalibrate the inner compass
after a year spent traversing the globe. It would
heal my mind and recenter my soul. There was
the added bonus that it would form the base of
my offseason preparation and give my mind and
body a break from the relentless grind of the
repetition of paddling. While nurturing my soul,
I was also conditioning my mind and body. I
would throw myself into this time of year knowing
that I was preparing myself to raise the bar of
possibility higher in the future. Sure enough, the
season following this photo saw me lay down
performances of pride across the water and the
mountain bike. In typical DIY fashion, I shot this
image on a GoPro Hero 5 mounted on a handheld
tripod.
EDITOR & ADVERTISING MANAGER
Steve Dickinson
Mob: 027 577 5014
steve@pacificmedia.co.nz
ART DIRECTOR
Lynne Dickinson
design@pacificmedia.co.nz
SUBSCRIPTION ENQUIRIES
subs@pacificmedia.co.nz
DISTRIBUTION
Ovato, Ph (09) 979 3000
OTHER PUBLICATIONS (HARDCOPY AND ONLINE)
www.adventuremagazine.co.nz
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@adventurevanlifenz
PUBLISHERS
NZ Adventure Magazine is published six times a year by:
Pacific Media Ltd, P.O.Box 562
Whangaparaoa, New Zealand
Ph: 0275775014
Email: steve@pacificmedia.co.nz
adventuremagazine.co.nz | NZadventurebike
adventurejobs.co.nz | adventuretraveller.co.nz
Contributions of articles and photos are welcome and must be accompanied by a stamped selfaddressed
envelope. Photographic material should be on slide, although good quality prints may
be considered. All care is taken but no responsibility accepted for submitted material. All work
published may be used on our website. Material in this publication may not be reproduced without
permission. While the publishers have taken all reasonable precautions and made all reasonable
effort to ensure the accuracy of material in this publication, it is a condition of purchase of
this magazine that the publisher does not assume any responsibility or liability for loss or
damage which may result from any inaccuracy or omission in this publication, or from the use of
information contained herein and the publishers make no warranties, expressed or implied, with
respect to any of the material contained herein.
Adventure Magazine
Whereever we go,
our preferred car
hire is...
HAPPY 40TH BIRTHDAY
In 1981 Prince Charles and Lady Diana
Spencer got married, ‘Raiders of the lost
Ark’ made its debut, and Ronald Reagan
became president. Here at home we
were reeling from the ‘underarm bowling
incident’, where Greg Chappell told
his brother Trevor to bowl the last bowl
underarm so Brian McKechnie could
not attempt to hit a six. In the
same year, the Springbok
rugby tour ripped the
country in two. But on a
positive note Adventure
Magazine was born.
Though carrying adverts
for cigarettes and
orange coloured zinc
the first few issues were
widely focused on a range
of sport from swimming to
sailing. As the years progressed
and the cigarette ads became less,
Adventure went through a series of
different vibes, it became very ‘multisport’
focused for a while, then a lot of biking,
before it went back to a more generic feel.
Pacific Media has produced Adventure
for the last twenty years (we actually took
the reins with issue 100) and we have
loved every moment. The adventure
industry is great to work with everyone
from those doing different activities to
those who import the products, everyone
is passionate and enthusiastic and
of late incredibly supportive.
Covid has put a lot of
strain on the adventure
community but the
majority of those
involved do it for the
love, not the money
and it makes you
proud to be able
to showcase New
Zealand, the places,
and the people. We
have no idea what the
next 40 years looks like, you
can only guarantee it will change
but Adventure Magazine and the people
within its pages will still be there doing
fun stuff.
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Our inspirational women:
ANNABEL ANDERSON: Our
cover girl is a former multiple
world champion, marketing and
communications professional, event
manager, coach, athlete mentor,
advocate for females in sport, and
all around outdoor enthusiast from
Wanaka. (Page 8)
LAUREN MURRAY: Since
moving to Queenstown last year,
Lauren she really dived into the
world of tramping and pairing
that with her photography skills
to start more adventure travel
based stills that she is proud of
today. (Page 14)
VICTORIA BRUCE:
Victoria Bruce lives in Christchurch
with her daughter Emilie. She's
worked in journalism and
communications and loves tramping
because it's "good for the soul".
(Page 18)
KEALA KENNELLY: Affectionally
known as KK, Keala Kennelly is
an actress and DJ, but is most well
known for her big wave surfing. A
staunch women’s and gay activist,
she has led the way to get women
recognized in the sport of surfing.
(Page 22))
CAITLIN FIELDER: After trying a
variety of sports Caitlin decided that
ultra-marathons were her passion.
Coupled with a deep love of running
she is also passionate about art and
has developed a unique talent creating
mini masterpieces on all types of sports
shoes. (Page 26)
TSELANE MEAD: is an emergency
nurse and mountaineer. She is a ski
instructor and school nurse in the Swiss
alps during the winter. She works with
hiking, mountaineering and ski clubs
to help empower women from diverse
backgrounds to reach their potential in
mountain spaces. (Page 30)
CHARLIE (CHARLOTTE) ELLIS:
Charlie is a 35 year old theatre
enthusiast who gets out tramping as
often as possible to balance things out,
keep herself sane, and basically stop
her completing Netflix. Originally from
the UK she started tramping as a child,
though thankfully she now finds it a less
traumatic experience. (Page 38)
NANCY JIANG: Nancy Jiang recently
moved to Nelson, where she divides
her time between working as a
structural engineer and exploring the
trails around her new home on foot or
on bike, refilling the stoke cup.
(Page 40)
ERIN LOCKHART: The 22 year old
grew up in Tawa and is currently
working as a stargazing tour guide in
Lake Tekapo. She got into tramping
whilst working in Canada in 2018. She
spent the months of March and June
this year tramping her way all over the
South Island. (Page 44)
JENNA HASTINGS: This 17-year-old
is taking the mountain biking scene
by storm. Based in her hometown of
Rotorua she has a deep passion for
mountain biking she dreams to be
on the European World series and
Downhill World Cup one day.
(Page 48)
KATARINA RENALDI: Is a 24 year
old female solo traveler originally
from Kalamazoo, MI, United States.
She holds a degree in Laboratory
Medicine and Environmental and
Sustainability Studies and began to
get closer with her love for nature
through tramping in New Zealand.
(Page 52)
CRISTINA BARRACLOUGH: The
outdoors is her passion, you'll most
likely find her out climbing at the crag,
in the bush or on the sea! She did
a degree in Business Management
with English Literature in the UK and
is now studying a post-grad at NMIT,
Nelson. Follow her on Instagram:
@cristinalbarra (Page 56)
VICKY HAVILL: Is a 36 year old mum
of 2 home-schooled kids in Oxford,
Canterbury. She started trying to
improve her fitness at 30 and found she
enjoyed exploring the outdoors around
her which gives herself mental and
physical space from the stressors of
everyday life. Follow her on Instagram
@wild_vs-mumma (Page 60)
BELINDA STUART: From Indiana
to Nelson, NZ, Belinda's love of the
outdoors has helped her create a
new line of merino clothing for the
adventurer in us all. (Page 64)
southernapproachnz
06//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#227

The
benefits
of being a
Multi-Trick
Pony
By Annabel Anderson
If I told you that my teenage years spent ski racing would be
one of the biggest contributing factors to my success as a
stand-up paddle athlete, I’m sure I would get many a blank
look.
If I told you that athletics was the foundation of my
preparation for skiing, I’d likely get an equally sideways
glance. You see, we live in a time that loves to get stuck in
the age-old conundrum of labels and pigeon holes.
“You’re the paddler”
“You’re the mountain biker”
“You’re the skier”
“You’re the climber” etc.
Ladies (and gentlemen) listen up. I’m here to tell you that
you are here to be all of these (possibly more) if we begin
to drop the labels and embrace the possibility of diversifying
the scope of the activities we do. The only caveat is that this
contemplation of possibility requires “embracing the suck of
learning new things” as well as “doing hard things”.
You’re right, all new things are hard at first. But so were
most of the things we have begun to master over time. With
the commitment to learning new skills, movements and
environments mastery comes as a convenient by product of
time spent learning the patterns that are the foundations of
these.
But people are a funny species and they will always label
you with the thing they associate most closely with you.
To many, I’m simply known at the ‘paddler’ or the ‘girl who
paddles’. Once upon a time I was the ‘triathlete’ and before
that I was the ‘skier’.
When I first started paddling in the UK back in 2010 I was
doing it all wrong (according to the early self-considered
experts at the time).
In the eyes of those ‘supposed experts’, I was doing it all
wrong, yet I continued to win, by increasingly large margins
and began to frequently beat all of the majority of the men’s
field in the process.
I was doing it so wrong that people started analysing what I
was doing to figure out why I was winning and by such large
margins. Frame by frame video footage was being analysed
as people tried to figure out what I was doing to propel
myself forward.
"A broad skill base and
how you can draw from
one platform to the next
– women often pigeon
hole themselves"
What the armchair experts and sideline pundits didn’t give
credence to the depth of my sporting background across
multiple codes. Athletics, triathlon, cycling, ski racing and
sailing to reel off a few.
Little did I know that it would be this multi-disciplinary
approach as a developing athlete that would be the
foundations of sustained sporting achievement in a sport
that hadn’t been thought of 20 years ago.
In sports like gymnastics, swimming, golf, tennis and
martial arts if you don’t start soon after you can walk, you’re
always going to be playing catch up. But this is not true
of a multitude of other sporting codes and is now being
supported by numerous volumes of research emerging
that support a multi-disciplinary approach to sporting
development, participation and achievement at elite levels
of competition.
For the vast majority of athletes and sports, earlier is
sometimes not better in the long term. One of the side
effects of early specialisation is that when athletes narrow
their focus onto one sport or activity too early they risk
burnout, over-use injuries and lessened motivation over
time meaning they fall short of realising their performance
potential at the highest levels of a particular sporting code.
It’s when you drill deeper into it what my formative
athletic development entailed, there were skills, aerobic
development and movement patterns that would play a
major role in my future successes, not to mention the skills
that these activities taught me around how to prepare, train
and compete.
Skiing taught me the laws of physics in relation to
biomechanics and power generation to propel myself
forward. It required an incredibly strong lower body to
generate power and absorb force, which is also what is also
critical paddling. It also required huge amounts dry land
based physical preparation and fine-tuning of equipment.
Athletics taught me how to hurt and how to rub elbows in
close quarters and to do drills every day.
Racing bikes taught me that race strategy and tactics are
king and that the fittest and fastest person doesn’t always
win.
RIGHT: In 2017, in lieu of a key sponsor, I wore 'Do Epic Shit' at every opportunity. It spoke to my 'why', my reason and my purpose.
08//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#227

"As a person who has always embraced
variety over monotony, the more I have
been forced to specialise in one thing, the
more I have craved the chance to do other
things and learn new things."
Triathlon was the school of hard knocks that input is directly
related to output and unless you do the work, you can rest
assured that your competition will be.
Sailing taught me to read and ‘feel’ the movement of
water and that the person who is most in tune with their
environment and makes the least mistakes most often comes
out on top if all other things are equal.
Paddling taught me how to make a slow craft go and fast as
possible while foiling has given me a whole new appreciation
for physics.
This past Southern Hemisphere winter thanks to Covid I went
back to my roots and made my way back up a mountain.
If there is one thing that a few years of ski racing in your
teens teaches you, it’s how to break down and analyse
highly technical movements. Skiing is a far from natural
movement, is highly reliant on biomechanics and a sequence
of movement patterns to be able to ski with fluidity and flow.
It starts with your legs and how you are able to stand in a
semi-squat position while executing dynamic movements for
periods at a time.
As I stood in my ski boots, I made the correlation that my
ability to flex my ankle was what allowed me to drive so much
power from my legs when stand up paddling versus other
people.
You see, my legs are in exactly the same position in ski boots
as they are standing on a board paddling forwards and played
a major role in why I have always been able to generate so
much power from my legs.
The slightest weighting of one foot makes my ski start to
turn just like a board starts to turn when you steer it with the
weighting and unweighting of one of your feet.
As a person who has always embraced variety over
monotony, the more I have been forced to specialise in one
thing, the more I have craved the chance to do other things
and learn new things.
In the past few months this has transitioned and diversified
once again, this time learning how to defy the laws of physics
and master this new fang-dangled ‘wingfoil’ malarkey as well
as upping my game on technical mountain bike front.
One thing that a deep and diverse background of movement
and technical skills across a range of environments have
given me is an ability to ‘hack the process’ by seeing
similarities across different pursuits and transfer these skills,
knowledge and learned movements to new things.
Top to bottom: The first female to repel 550ft off the biggest sea cliff in Europe in the Faroe Islands as part of a feature World Of
Adventure Sports. / Session 3 of the 'Learn to Fly Baptism of Fire' camp with Mat Fouliard in Tahiti / GoPro Mountain Games, Vail,
Co Enduro MTB race. Event 1 of 11 across bikes, white water and trail running in 2.5 days at 8,000'. / White on white. First turns of
Winter '21, The Remarkables NZ
Dredging through a sunset left on the Pass, Tahiti
10//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#227 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 11

"The more skills we have, the more we use
those skills, the more we learn new skills,
the more confidence we build."
The benefit? The learning curve becomes steeper the more
things you learn.
When I reflect on my journey with the foil, not only did I have
to figure it out and teach myself, but I was in a place of fickle
wind and cold waters doing something that was new and
unknown and simply had to do the time and figure it out on
the fly (literally).
There were moments of overwhelm, changes of wind
direction, the wind dying and having to paddle in and multiple
walks of shame. But each time there would be at least one
or two things that I’d take from the time spent doing that fed
into the bank of overall progress. Quite simply, I committed
to doing the time and progression naturally came with it and
now you’ll find me out in 40 knots finding the big rolling swells
in the middle of Lake Wanaka knowing I’m the only one out
there.
Likewise with getting my head around the more technical side
of mountain biking. If only I’d known years ago that dropper
posts were game changers in the confidence department and
that a combination of the addition of a bouncy bike, access to
progressive flow trails and riding (when possible) with a group
of others not only layered foundational skills but also layered
much needed confidence when it came to drops, jumps, rocky
terrain and more. The reminder of what I took from winter of
‘raising my gaze’ and ‘eyes up’ also made the transition from
snow to dirt.
Both of these recent examples have demonstrated how far
I have come not only in the skill department but also the
confidence and comfort in much more technical and critical
situations (weather, terrain and the likes).
The stimulation of learning and mastering new movements
keeps our mind in the game and our motivation levels higher.
It keeps us humble and heightens our awareness of the little
things that collectively make big differences.
The crux of it is this.
The more skills we have, the more we use those skills, the
more we learn new skills, the more confidence we build
allowing us to create more opportunities to enjoy more things.
In a way, it is self-perpetuating as well as keeping our minds
fresh and our hearts young.
And when we see embracing diversity of outdoor activity
as an opportunity and a gift, we might just have another
Covid-induced opportunity staring us in the face that we may
have overlooked otherwise if we choose to embrace a multidiscipline
approach to what we do.
Top to bottom: Taking the gym beneath the surface of Lake Wanaka / If in doubt, rock retro fluoro + lycra + lycra. Eagle, CO
The lure of back country turns is always worth the effort / Chasing my morning shadow along the shallows of Lake Wanaka
Did that just happen? Delayed flights, a broken board, lost luggage and borrowed gear resulted in total disbelief after
stomping the field to win the ISA World Championship race around the waters of Copenhagen Opera House, Denmark.
12//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#227 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 13

What defines you?
Words and Image by Lauren Murray
Being the only person in a place so powerful, so beautiful,
and so vast, is a humbling experience that reminds you
just how insignificant you are, and just how rewarding (and
sometimes necessary) it can be to be alone.
Then, to be a photographer in a place so powerful, beautiful
and vast, is an opportunity for magic.
That’s what solo overnight hiking trips are for me. They are
a way to recoup and restore my mental energy, as a vessel
in the continual spiritual awakening I found I had begun in
my late 20s, as well as being a space, my chosen space,
for which I can create more than I consume.
14//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#227 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 15

"A friend recently asked me “what defines you”
and my answer was “my experiences and beliefs
define me, but they are always happening and
evolving. So, my definition is never complete”.
The hike to Earnslaw Burn Glacier, what I
would pitch my tent under for the night, is
a 30km return, intermediate to advanced
level hike, starting within a short drive
from the Glenorchy township. Despite it
being easily accessible, it doesn’t have
as much attention or awareness around
it as some other well-known tracks, such
as the Routeburn, which starts/finishes
close to the Earnslaw Burn trail. However,
that suited me just fine, and I knew the
added (or subtracted) factor of having
to camp as opposed to having a hut up
there waiting for me, made it that little bit
more unique.
I had my mind set on this location several
months before, ever since first seeing
an image of it in a fellow photographers
portfolio. It was to be the first solo
overnight hike (although it can be done
as a long day in and out mission) I had
embarked on and after several weeks
of carefully researching and buying the
lightest (to compensate for my heavy
camera equipment) hiking gear I could
source, I was well prepared and excited
to go.
It was a day, placed somewhere between
Christmas and New Years Eve, of
absolutely optimal conditions for an alpine
hike, however, that’s not to say I didn’t
have several slips or mis-footings along
the way which left my legs pretty scraped
and bruised up for a while after. Battle
scars I am always at peace with, but also
notes for consideration that it would be a
different scene in winter or wet conditions.
The lightly trafficked, and marked track
consists of two sections. The first section,
which makes up the majority of the track,
is a steady climb through bush, with
washed out, overgrown, and fallen tree
segments that will see you go off route
if you’re not extra careful. I am a fairly
attentive hiker but on this section I still
went off track 2 or 3 times. Luckily, I was
quick to realise I had come off the trail,
and quick to find my bearings from there.
Any further engrossed in the podcast I
was listening to, and it could possibly
have turned into something a bit more
than a slight inconvenience!
This section took me 4 hours, and I felt
(and do, to be fair, think) I was flying
the whole way through. I was excited,
and I had started the ascent a little later
than you’d expect, so I was trying to
make sure I got there in time to set up
well before the sun went down. I also
struggled to enjoy this section of the
trail. 4 hours of native NZ bush which, is
beautiful no doubt, but something I am
very familiar with having grown up in New
Zealand, meant my appreciation for it was
a little light, and I wanted to get through
it as quickly as I could. That, or maybe I
am just conditioned for the extreme sights
that nature can give us, case of “the grass
is greener on the other side” perhaps,
and I knew my end location was going to
be breathtaking. However, as I write this,
the saying “it’s about the journey, not the
destination” also comes to mind, and I
make a mental note to be more conscious
of that on the next adventure.
The second section of this trail starts
once you finally exit the bush. Coming
out into quite a large valley opening was
a relief, and straight away you see camp
spots designated for those who do not
want to trek their gear a further 1-2 hours
up the valley, seeing as the track is a no
exit anyway. I, however, had other ideas,
and although I was starting to feel the
exhaustion setting in, I was determined to
set up camp right next to the giant glacier
and waterfall that make Earnslaw Burn so
special.
The final stretch isn’t marked so you have
to more or less guess what path to take.
You can’t get lost, it is all open and there
is only one way in and out, however, I
ended up taking 2 freezing cold river
crossings that I realised on the way back
were unnecessary, but that, plus a little
extra time that it should be, were the only
inconveniences. Nevertheless, after a
small time in the valley you start to see
the glacier up ahead and it fuels you even
more. Trudging on until finally, up above
one last hill that blocked the waterfall
from view, I had reached my destination.
A wide scale opening with waterfalls
falling all around the enclosure, off the
glacier and into the valley. I picked my
spot - as close to the feature waterfall as
I could get without getting wet and set up
for the night.
After I had prepared my accommodation
for the evening it was getting close to
sunset. I got my photography gear, which
consisted of a tripod, DSLR camera, two
lenses, and a drone in order, and started
wandering and shooting, and ultimately
capturing what you see here.
Unfathomable to me, looking at these
photos, that it wasn’t a dream. And
despite being there myself, waking up
at 5:30am the morning after to get more
golden light content, after a very cold
night that definitely reached freezing
temperatures even in the summer, in
that very tent next to the monster of
Earnslaw Burn, someone needs to pinch
me because, well, this place just can’t be
real! I remember staring at the landscape
and feeling overwhelmed by its scale and
its beauty and knowing that the images I
had captured showcased that, with a hint
of magic.
A friend recently asked me “what
defines you” and my answer was “my
experiences and beliefs define me, but
they are always happening and evolving.
So, my definition is never complete”. And
I think I’m okay with that. Okay with the
idea that I will never be defined or still or
complete because, it means I will always
have drive. And that drive will keep taking
me to place like this, capturing images
like these.
I go into the mountains and the bush
to escape. I battle the fatigue of the
hike to allow my energy and mind to
recuperate. Thoughts becomes decluttered
and clear, dreams vast, and
life is appreciated. In the mountains
I disconnect and disengage from
expectations, worries, and get to just be
insignificant, unimportant. I am reminded
that any struggle I might be facing at
any time is minuscule compared to the
expanse of my surroundings and that
allows me to just, be.
Follow Lauren's adventures:
@laurenkyliemurray
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Previous page: Lauren at the Earnslaw Burn Glacier
Right: If you look hard you can see Lauren's tiny little tent

Emilie’s
adventure to
Angelus Hut
Words and images by Victoria Bruce
"My stomach was a mixture
of nerves and excitement
as I surveyed the vast open
space around us. I had
watched the Mountain Safety
Council’s route video several
times, checked the latest
weather reports, spoken
to the DOC staff at the
Nelson Lakes Visitor Centre
and secured my personal
locator beacon, however I
knew nothing was certain
in this unpredictable alpine
environment."
“I want to be the leader!” Miss Six announced, pushing
TW past me in her determination to be in front. Momentarily
off balance with my heavy pack, I narrowly avoided
twisting an ankle on the sharp rocks and silently swore
while cracking a bright smile. “Good for you, sweetheart!” Better
to let her set the pace while the enthusiasm is still flowing
strong, I thought as I tightened the waist strap on my tramping
pack, pulled my neck warmer over my nose and followed her
along the ridgeline.
It was Boxing Day and we had just gained around 600 metres
elevation while slogging up the side of Pourangahau/Mount
Robert, on our way to Angelus Hut. Situated on the shores of a
small alpine tarn, the hut is perched some 1650 metres high on
the Travers Range between Lakes Rotoiti and Rotoroa in Nelson
Lakes National Park. Tramping blogs accurately describe the 3
km climb up the Pinchgut Track from the Mount Robert Carpark
as “unrelenting,” and I would wholeheartedly agree, however my
company was cheerful and the views were spectacular.
We stopped for a quick snack and to catch our breath at the
Relax Shelter, adding windproof layers and sun protection to
shield us against the harsh sun and wind that we knew we’d
encounter on the nine kilometres of exposed ridgeline before we
dropped down to Lake Rotomaninitua/Lake Angelus.
My stomach was a mixture of nerves and excitement as a
surveyed the vast open space around us. I had watched
the Mountain Safety Council’s video on the Robert Ridge
route several times, checked the latest weather reports, and
spoken to the DOC staff at the Nelson Lakes Visitor Centre,
however I knew nothing was certain in this unpredictable alpine
environment. The spring weather was restless and volatile and
I didn’t want to get caught out on the tops with a six year old,
on day one of a multi-day tramp in Nelson Lakes National Park.
I tried to swallow my nerves and remain calm and confident,
assessing the risks and telling myself, you got this.
I lengthened my stride to catch up to Miss Six, who was enjoying
rock-hopping along the track, the sunlight glinting off her caramel
and golden curls. The western side of Mount Robert sloped
away steeply on one side of us, while tiny alpine tarns sparkled
on the eastern side a few hundred metres below. “It looks like a
mermaid’s pool!” my daughter exclaimed, waving her tramping
pole. A tiny clump of bright green moss was a fairy’s carpet. I love
seeing the magic of the world through her eyes.
Ahead of us shone the sun-bleached white rocks of the
ridgeline, a stark contrast to the darkness of the valleys on
either side. We watched as a patch of rain swept up one side
and disappeared over the mountain ranges. While only the
occasional wisp of cirrus cloud obscured the mostly blue sky
overhead, I had my eye on an ominous clump of low cloud that
was slowly emerging over the horizon.
“We’re on top of the world now Mummy,” my daughter told
me, squeezing my hand. “We can float on the clouds!” When
I’d first showed her photos of the hut on the DOC website,
nestled on the shores of Lake Angelus and surrounded by
rugged mountains, she had agreed that she also wanted to
visit “Angela’s Hut”. And here we were, on our summer school
holidays, 1400 metres in the clouds, the only two little humans
as far as our eyes could see.
I’ve been taking my daughter on tramps since she was born,
graduating from forest rambles with her snoozing in the front
pack, to longer tramps with her chattering away in the baby
carrier. When she was four and a half, we did our first overnight
tramp to the big and beautiful Woolshed Creek hut in the
Canterbury foothills, bathing in the creek, snuggling in bulky
borrowed sleeping bags, and waking in the night at the noise of
the wind blowing through the tussock grass to stare, wide-eyed,
at the vast night sky peppered with stars.
The Mother/daughter duo pose for a photo on the snow-covered Mount Cedric ridgeline on their descent from Angelus Hut
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I spent my own early years in Australia, a child of the raucous
Australian bush with its bright colours, intense heat and noisy
inhabitants. I was used to being accompanied by the hum of
cicadas, the crackle of a dead leave popping in the heat, the
low chuckle of a kookaburra or screech of a galah. It took me a
while to understand and feel at home amongst the muted pastel
palette of the New Zealand backcountry, but I was hooked. I’ve
noticed, as I grow older and busier, juggling a fast-paced job
with full-time single parenting and the upkeep of an old house
in the suburbs, that I crave the peace and solitude of the bush
and want to go further and deeper every time. I plan and look
forward to our tramps with a refreshingly energising childlike
excitement, often finding it hard to sleep the night before an
adventure. I longed for the moment when my mind grew calm,
my thoughts floating away like the clouds, my focus only on the
here and now.
Miss Six wanted to chat. “Mummy, tell me a story,” she
demanded as we picked our way up a particularly rocky section
of ridgeline. I began a story about a family of rock goblins who
spent their days moving rocks around the mountaintops and
tidying up after storms. One day, Rosanna the rock goblin was
out with her brother and sister when a particularly nasty storm
swept over and blew them down the mountain. They sheltered
from the wind and snow in a kākāpō’s burrow, making friends
with the mother bird and her chick. In the morning, when all was
calm, they dug their way out of the burrow and skipped across
the snow, checking that all the birds and animals were safe,
and gathering berries for the mummy kākāpō to eat. I’m sure
anyone with a science background will pick me up on numerous
factual inaccuracies, but we liked these stories of adventure
and caring for the environment and I have a repertoire of
characters up my sleeve for long walks like these.
However, it appeared that a nasty storm was heading our way
as well, as the large clump of low cloud was closer and darker,
and an icy wind had picked up, sapping any heat from the
shafts of sunlight that still shone in places.
We were dallying and I needed us to pick up the pace. Our
visibility was still good, but we had another couple of kilometres
to go. “Sweetheart, we need to walk faster if we are to beat the
storm,” I told my daughter. “We can’t be like Rosanna and hide
in a kākāpō’s hole.”
“I AM walking fast,” she grumbled, a little purple and navy blue
poppet, 115 centimetres high, all rugged up in her cold weather
clothes. “You are doing a fabulous job, so keep it up,” I said,
“and when we get to the hut, we’ll put the fire on, have a hot
chocolate and play with your cards. Come on, let’s go.”
A speck of frozen water dusted my cheek and within minutes, a
tiny piece of snow fluttered onto the rocks around us. Sucking
on barley sugars, we looked behind to see the sun still shining
a few hundred metres down the track. The bulk of the cloud
seemed to be blowing to the west of us, deeper into the national
park and we were on its periphery, sprinkled with fluttering
hailstones as gentle as snow. At this stage, we just had to pull
the rain hoods over our beanies and hustle on, taking care to
navigate the rough terrain with our tired legs.
The Robert Ridge gradually climbs to the 1690m high Flagtop,
then dips, then climbs again to the Julius Summit at 1794m,
making you think that the end might be just over the next
peak. We’d experienced a few of these anti-climaxes before
the familiar dark green and yellow DOC sign appeared up
ahead, marking the junction of the Speargrass Creek Track and
informing us that it was only another 30 minutes to Angelus Hut.
Visibility was dropping and the snowflakes blew in with the
wind as we climbed down towards Lake Rotomaninitua/Lake
Angelus, our eyes fixed on the sturdy wooden hut with its twin
outhouses. Remarkably, we hadn’t seen another soul on our
entire trip, and it was very nice to unlace our boots, stagger
inside and meet the friendly hut warden.
By the time we’d brewed a pot of hot chocolate and set
ourselves up at a table by the window, the snow was swirling
thick and fast, hitting the glass and settling on the decks and
grounds around the hut.
Snow was still on the ground the next morning when we set off
along the Mount Cedric track, leaving crunchy white footprints
through the tussock grass, stopping frequently to make
snowmen and marvel at the expansive views all around us.
Many hours later, we finished sliding down the side of Mount
Cedric, staggering out of the beech forest and onto the shores
of Lake Rotoroa, arriving at the cosy Sabine Hut. Our time on
the tops was over, but we’d left a little bit of our souls up there,
and gained some wonderful memories.
E N G I N E E R E D I N
/
D O L O M I T E S
T H E
Emilie Bruce, six years old, about to tackle the mighty Robert Ridge on the way to Angelus Hut
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BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA

Keala
Kennelly
owns
Red Bull
Magnitude
By Jon Coen
The North Shore season of 1957 is recognized
in the surfing world as the start of an era.
When Greg Noll, a young Mickey Munoz
and company went out and rode Waimea for
the first time, it was a glimpse of what could
be in the world of big-wave surfing. More
than 60 years later, the winter of 2020-2021
will likely be looked at in the same manner
as that fateful season of ’57. Thanks to an
unlikely juxtaposition of health regulations that
made live events impossible, a raging North
Pacific and two dozen women who took part
in Red Bull Magnitude, barriers were kicked
down, and this winter changed the outlook of
women’s big-wave forever.
Keala Kennelly surfs during Red Bull Magnitude
on Outer Reef, Oahu, HI, USA
Image by Christa Funk / Red Bull Content Pool
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 23

"Magnitude was
a great concept
that gave women
a platform and
the much lacking
resources we
needed."
“This year was definitely a milestone,” stated Kennelly,
the 42-year-old pro-surfing veteran and winner of 2021
Red Bull Magnitude. The Kauai native surfed the World
Championship Tour for a decade, dominating the heavy
waves like Tahiti’s Teahupo’o, before leaving the tour to
chase giant swells.
Kennelly took home the Overall Winner and Biggest
Wave Awards (the latter for a bomb she caught on an
Oahu outer reef), while Makani Adric was awarded
Runner-Up and Emi Erickson was given the Best Ride
Award for one of her many daring drops at Waimea Bay.
“It wasn’t solely because you had one of the biggest
XXL swells of the decade [that made this year special],
but also because Red Bull put on a specialty female
big-wave event. Magnitude was a great concept that
gave women a platform and the much lacking resources
we needed,” Kennelly continued. “Having filmers and
a jet ski safety team dedicated to us every time the
contest would activate, gave women big-wave surfers
the opportunity to push their limits with more confidence
and then have video footage, not only to use to boost
our profiles but also to review and learn from.”
“Red Bull Queen of the Bay put together the first allwomen's
big-wave surf contest at Waimea Bay. That’s
where women supporting other women came into play,”
said the North Shore’s 24-year-old Makani Adric, who
took home the event Runner-Up Award for the first-ever
Red Bull Magnitude.
And, with the women charging in truly XXL conditions,
the event judges had to understand the consequences
of these waves. “Banzai” Betty Depolito, celebrated bigwave
surfer/spearfisherman Mark Healey, former tour
surfer/three-time Surfer Poll-winner Rochelle Ballard,
and superstar waterman/two-time Red Bull Big Wave
Awards Overall Performance Award winner, Kai Lenny
answered the call. The star-studded judges panel
studied each wave submitted and voted on the winners
of four event awards: the Overall Winner Award, the
Runner-Up Award, the Best Ride Award, and the
Biggest Wave Award.
“Women’s big-wave surfing has seen this slow growth,
but this year it was a huge jump,” observes Healey. “I
think this year was a catalyst—having safety crews and
filmers able to mobilize when those swells hit. It was
a breakthrough year, specifically with the amount of
different women at so many of these breaks.”
Adric, who is among the leaders of the new generation
of big-wave surfers, sees this as just the start of the
momentum swing.
“When it comes to surfing and women supporting each
other, it makes me happy seeing other girls rooting
for one another. When I see other girls out surfing or
trying their best doing what they love to do, it definitely
inspires me to keep pushing forward and paving the
way for the younger generations,” says Adric. “This year
has absolutely been a milestone.”
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Makani Adric surfs during Red Bull Magnitude at Waimea
Bay, Oahu, HI, USA.
Image by Christa Funk / Red Bull Content Pool

Caitlin Fielder
Ultra-marathon runner & artist
Caitlin Fielder has spent most of her life doing some form of activity.
She grew up in the mountain biking capital of New Zealand, Rotorua,
before moving to Mount Maunganui to completer her Bachelor of
Science, majoring in Biological sciences, drawn by the hands-on
approach and the chance to scuba dive as part of her degree.
Growing up she enjoyed playing soccer, netball, waterpolo and boxing.
By her own admission “I wouldn’t say I was particularly good at it,
in no way was I bad, I was fit, but probably never showed the 110%
commitment necessary to go the extra mile.” That was until she found
ultra-marathon running. After reading Lisa Tamati’s ultra-running book,
something seemed to resonate with Caitlin and in 2016 she entered
her first 50km ultra event, the Old Ghost Ultra. To say this was a
learning experience would be an understatement, but it’s also what got
her hooked into the sport.
The same year she met her partner, George, a cyclist, and they moved
to Spain for the season. Caitlin also always had a passion for art, so
she came up with the idea of painting George a shoe for his birthday,
which he wore during the Tour de France, and from there her shoe art
began. We caught up with Caitlin for a chat about her life…
I can’t say I enjoy even a 5km
run, so can’t imagine what
it’s like to run over 50km. Can
you tell us a little about ultrarunning;
what is it about it that
you enjoy? Is it the challenge?
The environment? The sense
of achievement? Or do you
get some super endorphin
rush? I mean I probably wouldn’t
recommend going straight from
a 5km run then heading into an
ultra! It’s definitely something you
work into and spend a lot of time
getting your body prepared and
ready for. But also just because
I spend a lot of time running it
doesn’t mean I don’t also get
those feelings during my trainings
where I want to stop and just
don’t feel great! I love that every
run is so different, both in terms
of the environment and also how
I’m feeling. Trail running means
it’s so hard to compare different
trails as well, it’s not like you
can become obsessed with your
average pace and splits because
it’s just not relevant between
different runs. Shorter races don’t
really suit me as much so I guess
that’s why I tend towards the
longer ones where you can warm
into them a bit. I think nowadays
we’re almost used to taking short
cuts with everything and I guess
a lot of things being easy, but it’s
the challenge of pushing yourself
further and harder that appeals to
me. It’s being uncomfortable and
being able to sit with that I guess.
How do you train/prepare for a
50km plus run and how does
your body react post run?
Yeah, a lot of work goes into it! It
depends a lot on what the race
is that youre preparing for. For
example the Tarawera ultra is a
relatively fast course that you can
hold quite a fast constant speed
for, so it’s more about being
comfortable at holding a speed
for a long amount of time. Other
european 50ks for example OCC
(which is a race at UTMB) has a
lot of climbing in it which means
it’s more important to train hills
and get that different strength
there. Post run depends as well,
I’ve had 50k races where I’ve
felt pretty good afterwards, and
I’ve also had 20km races where
I’ve been completely stuffed
afterwards. Depends on the effort
and what the course is like!
Caitlin running the Golden Trail World Series in Chamonix
Image by Martina Valmassoi
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" I think people really like the idea of having
something that no one else has in the world,
which I can understand. I guess its something
people are incredibly passionate about anyway,
and then they get artwork which they can wear
while they're doing something they love."
You obviously over-prepared for your
first ultra-run and have obviously cut
back on supplies since then. Can you
tell us about what you take with you
now and what you consider when
choosing what to take? I brought a lot of
stuff with me on that first ultra at the Old
Ghost road, I had packed a lot of food. I
think it helps a lot to go off what time you
expect to be finishing in, then the amount
of calories and carbs that you want to be
consuming for that time. So, in general I
like to have something every 30mins when
I’m racing, not including drinking mix. So
would calculate it from there! In general
on races around 4:30 or less I’d just have
gels and drink mix.
After the China ultra-marathon event
that saw 21 runners killed, China has
banned ultramarathon events. Is there
anything you think that could have
been done differently to have saved
the lives of the people running? Is
there anything they could have carried
that would have saved their lives or
is extreme weather something that
you just cannot prepare for? That
was a huge tragedy and it’s incredibly
sad to see how they have now cancelled
ultramarathons in China. I guess it
surprised me that some people were
racing the ultra in cotton t shirts and there
wasn’t a compulsory gear list that was
mandatory to take on the course. Every
ultra I have done has had mandatory gear
to take on the course, no gear means
no race which is something I completely
agree with. I live in Andorra so spend a
lot of time in the mountains at altitude
when training, and the weather can
change very quickly without warning. I
always take extra gear with me running
in the mountains and run with a PLB
28//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#227
(personal locator beacon) to be prepared
for the weather changing and worst case
scenarios. Organisers always need to be
prepared for the worst case scenarios
and plan accordingly. I think it would be
easy entering a race and seeing that there
wasn't any compulsory gear it could make
people complacent, with more trust in the
organisers and event management. You're
basically putting your life in someone
elses hands for an event like that. It's
not the first tragedy to occur during an
ultra marathon event and I hope its not
the last. There have been situations like
this but with bush fires etc. Just horrible
circumstances that need to be learnt from
and mitigated by preparing and planning
for worst case.
What have been your most interesting/
scenic/challenging/beautiful/rewarding/
memorable runs you have taken part in
and what is it that has made it so? I’ve
been lucky enough to have run and raced
all over the world. I think the Old Ghost
Road ultra on the west coast of NZ is still
one of the most spectacular races I’ve
done. Racing in Europe is very different as
well though, the mountains you encounter
over here are insane and along with them
comes the spectacular views. There are
also massive crowds and supporters over
here, it's a wicked environment to be in.
As well running ultramarathons, you
are also a talented artist. Art covers a
large array of mediums, can you tell us
a bit about your art passion? Thanks
haha! I always feel a bit awkward when
I say I'm an artist actually, feel a bit of
imposter syndrome! But it's a perfect job
for me and helps me balance work with
my running. It’s interesting when I say I’m
an artist a lot of people say they can’t do
art, but I think art covers so much more
than the detailed fine art paintings people
think of. For me I really love hyper-realistic
art work, for me it just shows so much skill
and attention to detail. I can't really create
stuff just from memory, or make stuff up.
Not at the moment anyway, I think I would
need to work on that. At the moment I'm
more of a paint off a picture type artist. I
initially started thinking I would be doing
animal portraits and then somehow
after painting some shoes for George it
morphed into a custom shoe business.
You have created quite a niche for
yourself with your shoe artwork. Why
do you think there is such a demand
for unique one-off shoe designs? I
honestly dont really know. I think people
really like the idea of having something
that no one else has in the world, which
I can understand. I guess its something
people are incredibly passionate about
anyway, and then they get artwork
which they can wear while they're doing
something they love.
Most of the shoes I have seen have
been bike shoes of some sort. Have
you thought of branching into other
areas of sports shoe or even street
shoe design? What’s the limitations?
Challenges? Yeah I've done over 400
pairs of road cycling shoes now which is
insane. I have also done a few running
shoes and street shoes. I think street
shoes are probably the best shoes
to paint, because you're not worried
someones going to go hurtling down a hill
and biff it wearing them haha. Most of the
challenge would be finding the time to do
all the work! At the moment I have a 4-5
month waiting list which is slowly getting
longer, I need more hands.
C
M
Y
CM
MY
CY
CMY
K
MEET THE
www.hokaoneone.co.nz
ZINAL
FLY ON THE TRAILS

Adversity
at Altitude
By Tselane Mead
The wind and snow is whipping at my face. I’ve
readjusted the stiff frozen fleece buff around my
neck and mouth, desperately trying to protect
myself from the -20 degree bitter wind. Adrenaline
is still pumping through my body but I know I’ll
start to get cold soon. As I strain my eyes a little,
I can barely make out the outline of the cable car
station about 200 meters away through the thick
snow storm.
I am at 3,900 metres on the mountain. The
weather set in quickly and it is the end of the ski
day at Saas Fee in Switzerland. Precisely the time
when most accidents in the mountains happen.
The last cable car to the bottom of the mountain is
in 10 minutes.
I trudge back up through the snow to the
casualty. Through the thick grey, I see a small,
crumpled figure being covered every second by
the relentless heavy downfall. The child’s leg is
broken. He is slipping into shock, growing pale,
cold, and unconscious.
My mind is fogged for a moment as I think back on
the unsettling comment from a skier that morning
as I was getting out of the cable car. “I love this
colour,” he said, while touching my cheek. “You’re
the only one of you out here”.
I probably was. The whole year I’d been living and
working in the French and Swiss Alps I’d seen one
other black person out ski mountaineering. It was
a hilarious moment in itself: me trudging uphill and
him whizzing downhill, both of us waving frantically
at each other, clearly ecstatic to see one another.
This moment in the cable car, when I was petted
like an exotic beast, felt patronising and threw me
off kilter, stealing my confidence.
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" In the last few years, I rediscovered the majesty of the
outdoors. Ironically, it was when I was living in a big city
when I began climbing. In the inner city bouldering gyms, I
developed a taste for bigger adventures and, spending every
penny I earnt from my wage as an emergency nurse, began
travelling to the Alps and finding new opportunities."
My teammate, Ed, has marked the
incident area with upright skis. The
injured boy is just 13-years-old. He’d
failed to spot a small hump of snow in
the whiteout and fallen awkwardly whilst
skiing, twisting his leg.
Having called SOS for a helicopter or
a sled to rescue the child, we are now
waiting for them to arrive. That was 25
minutes ago.
The terrifying thought of this child
freezing to death crosses my mind as I
plan what to do next. I wonder if I’m cut
out for this. Maybe there’s a reason why
there aren’t more black and minority
ethnic women working in environments
like this. I tighten my hood around my
ski goggles and try to quieten my mind.
I think about all the reasons that qualify
me to be more than capable in this
environment, and give myself a mental
slap around my face.
I am a nurse, trained in emergency and
mountain medicine. In my seasonal job,
I help run ski programmes in the Alps
for international schoolchildren. I take
groups out in the mountains, instructing
them along the way. I’m responsible for
their wellbeing back at the communal
chalet, and I run a clinic in the mornings
and evenings ensuring the children are
healthy and well. I also manage any
minor injuries and liaise with the local
doctor or worried parents back home.
And so when anyone is injured on the
mountain, I am often first on scene.
And whilst the Alps are my favourite
place in the world, the mountains can
also be terrifying when bad weather sets
in. Get complacent out here, and it can
kill you. But it’s rare that I experience
complacency out here.
That’s because, as a woman who is
mixed race, I have found many barriers
to overcome to truly feel a sense of
belonging to a particular country or
place. This is sometimes heightened
when I’m in the outdoor industry and
environments. The mountaineering
scene is very white male dominated.
Even more so within the mountain
medicine scene. These spaces can
be tough and competitive, and even
sometimes misogynistic.
Not everyone can be welcoming or
accepting. I’ve had unkind looks and
comments about my skin tone. I've
had people marvel at seeing a person
with ‘Afro’ hair on the ski slopes, or at
the climbing crag. Some even think it’s
alright to try and touch my face or hair
without asking.
Thanks to my upbringing, I am a
resilient person. Born of a black South
African father and a white British
mother, all my family that I know of,
except me, are white. Growing up in
close proximity to the Peak District, my
mum would always take me walking
on the moors, or bivvying in secret
valleys as a child. We would forage for
bilberries on warm summer evenings
and wild swim in quiet plunge pools.
So I grew up happy and confident in the
outdoors. My gender or race wasn’t ever
an issue when I was out in nature with
my mum. Mum’s resourcefulness and
passion in wild spaces is something I
would eventually inherit.
But it took a long time. As I grew older I
stopped enjoying being outdoors, I felt
disconnected with the environment. Hill
walking became boring, it lacked people
my age and culture. I got into a trap of
working long hours and partying long
nights. I was not living a life that made
me feel alive.
In the last few years, I rediscovered
the majesty of the outdoors. Ironically,
it was when I was living in a big city
when I began climbing. In the inner city
bouldering gyms, I developed a taste
for bigger adventures and, spending
every penny I earnt from my wage as an
emergency nurse, began travelling to
the Alps and finding new opportunities.
I learnt how to be playful in nature once
again. Within a year I’d learnt to climb
huge rock faces, and to ski. I even
gained an instructor qualification. It was
time to develop myself in the mountain
medicine field.
There are many challenges of
working autonomously in a mountain
environment when first on scene, such
as having to make a call on the best
course of action and being confident in
my own decision-making process. In
these instances I have to throw aside
any issues with confidence concerning
gender and race.
As vital minutes pass on the mountain, I
call SOS again. Due to the bad weather
they are struggling to get to us. The time
is ticking away. The child is becoming
drowsier by the second.
The most important thing right now is
to keep him warm and alert. Ed ends
up cuddling next to the child to protect
him from the elements, and we wrap
him in spare layers and an emergency
blanket. I use the hard backing from my
backpack to try my best to immobilise
the leg to create some comfort for the
boy.
We are so close to some shelter. But
the child is too heavy, the snow too
deep, and he’s in too much pain for us
to lift him. We devise a plan to use the
emergency blankets and ski poles to
build a makeshift sled to slide him to
safety.
I begin to open our bags and rifle
through items, trying to plan our escape.
At altitude, and stomping through thick
snow, I’m gasping for breath. But I’m
determined to get the three of us to
safety.
Being a rarity in these environments
is hard at times, but also a privilege.
I have been blessed having a mother
who instilled confidence in me, but
many women don't have this.
Therefore I feel a responsibility to be
prepared and welcoming, a role model
to those who can’t imagine themselves
in these spaces. I’m happy to open
up conversations with people who
Previous Page: Aiguille du Midi decent.
Right: Sport climbing in Vlychada, Greece. Photo: Nick Arthur
32//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#227

we ARE climbing
" Whilst the outdoor industry has a great role to play in
reaching minorities and being more inviting to a wider
audience, the mountaineering community also has a
responsibility to pick up the mantle, for the important work
of building women up."
are intrigued by me. But I can’t help
thinking about those in my community
who might find this behaviour off
putting, who perhaps have never
had hard weathering of the outdoors
or confidence passed down from
generation to generation. Who may
decide they feel too uncomfortable in
these environments to persevere.
Whilst the outdoor industry has
a great role to play in reaching
minorities and being more inviting to
a wider audience, the mountaineering
community also has a responsibility to
pick up the mantle, for the important
work of building women up.
My current projects are now with
women's clubs that do exactly
that. Such as the Black Girls Hike
organisation, which provides a safe
space for women exploring their first
entry point into the outdoors. This
in turn may springboard into bigger
adventures like with the Women’s
Alpine Adventure Club, where women
can share skills and gain confidence
in activities like climbing, skiing and
mountaineering, no matter what their
starting point.
Although I have been unable to get
to the Alps this winter due to travel
restrictions, I have had the privilege
of opening up conversations about
diversity and inclusion in mountain
environments. I have run talks and
provided resources for ski and
mountaineering club members and
guides.
When I’m asked about the topic of
race and equality, I am faced with a
deep questioning. It's a delicate topic.
Greater disparity can occur when
everyone is treated ‘equally’ so I have
opted to take the stance that we can
instead be equitable. As an outdoor
community we can foster an inclusive
environment by normalising equitable
practices.
Times are changing and I have hope
that with certain grassroots projects
women are given an opportunity to
share skills, lead each other, and thrive
in wild spaces. I wonder how long it will
take for the outdoor industry to catch
up. How long it will be until I encounter
another black woman in a critical role
like mine.
Gran Paradiso
I hear a muffled whirr of something
in the distance and my heart rises
with relief as we see a skidoo with a
sled arriving through the dense grey.
Thankful for backup and emergency
supplies, I shuffle through the kneedeep
snow to wave at the SOS team,
desperate that they don’t miss us.
They arrive, and I hurriedly help to
unpack the sled and shout through the
intense weather to tell the crew what’s
happened.
Within what feels like a few moments,
the child is assessed, wrapped up,
given pain relief and taken down the
mountain to hospital. We watch as he
is sped away into the thickening grey
of the mountain.
The biting cold has now numbed my
fingers as I prepare my skis for the
long cold journey back to the village.
As I make my descent, I consider the
next challenges that these mountains
will bring.
To read more about Tselane’s
experiences as a mountain nurse,
head to DiscoverInteresting.com
Karl Merry Schimanski
“Under Pressure” (M8)
Remarkables, Queenstown
Photo: Tom Hoyle
For over thirty years Bivouac Outdoor has been proudly 100% New Zealand owned and committed to providing
you with the best outdoor clothing and equipment available in the world. It is the same gear we literally stake our
lives on, because we are committed to adventure and we ARE climbing.
Supporting Aotearoa's Backcountry Heritage
STORES NATIONWIDE
www.bivouac.co.nz
34//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#227

Cloud Ladder
A few years ago, before Covid-19 put a hold to everyone’s
travel plans, we visited Estes Park in Colorado. It was here that
we experienced Via Ferrata for the first time. It allowed us to
experience the thirll and excitement that only a dedicated rock
climber, with years of experience, would feel.
So when legendary climber Harry Kent, announced the
completion of Cloud Ladder, the steepest and most vertical Via
Ferrata route in the US, we were pretty excited about the news.
Located less than hour and a half drive from Denver, at the
footstep of Rocky Mountain National Park, the new route is part
of The Alpine Jewel, a private adventure destination. The new
route compliments the highly-acclaimed, original Estes Park
Via Ferrata route called, Peregrine Ridge (est. 2017), which
appeals to beginner and intermediate climbers.
Cloud Ladder provides 625 ft. of vertical climbing, breathtaking
exposure, and two headwall sections that culminate in a summit
at 9,250 ft that boasts some of the most stunning panoramic
views of Rocky Mountain National Park in the region. The new
route also includes two new, 40-foot, custom-made, suspension
bridges, which span a 300 ft. deep ravine, opening on July 21st.
“This new Via Ferrata is the result of 40 years of climbing
passion and philosophy,” said Kent. “While there are many
incredible Via Ferratas in the US, I wanted to create an
experience that rivaled the thrill of actual rock climbing, but
without the need for extensive training and gear. With this route,
we’ve set a new bar for what’s possible on a Via Ferrata.”
Italian for “iron way,” Via Ferratas provide an accessible way
for people to ascend rock walls using fixed iron cables, steel
steps, bridges, and ladders. Via Ferratas were first utilized in
World War I and World War II as a tool to help troops traverse
the treacherous peaks of the Alps and Dolomites. In the 1970’s
and 80’s, local climbing clubs across Europe and America
began restoring original routes and constructing new routes as
an exciting new form of climbing recreation.
Fashioned on a ski resort rating scale, routes at The Alpine
Jewel range from green to double black diamond, offering
a variety of guided experiences that are ideal for beginners,
families, and corporate groups as well as seasoned climbers
and adventure seekers. The Cloud Ladder route is designed to
appeal to more advanced climbers, while beginners and firsttime
climbers can continue to enjoy the original Peregrine Ridge
route.
Harry Kent and his climbing partner of 50-years, Keith Lober,
lead the design and construction of the Via Ferratas. Together,
they were the first Americans to make a winter ascent of the
North Face of the Eiger, one of the most challenging climbs in
Europe. Their accomplishments also include some of the most
difficult routes in Yosemite, the Andes, the Alps, and Himalayas.
Kent has owned and operated Kent Mountain Adventure Center
in Estes Park for over three decades. Lober’s background
includes 25 years as Chief of Emergency Services in Yosemite
National Park, where he managed the famous Yosemite Search
and Rescue Technical Rescue team (YOSAR).
“The Via Ferrata design is as much an artform as it is a
technical achievement,” said Kent. “Each step, handhold,
ladder, and bridge has been placed with millimeter precision, to
create a unique choreographed dance across the rock face. We
can’t wait to share it with the world.”
The Alpine Jewel is a guided-only experience, exclusively
operated by Kent Mountain Adventure Center. Customers can
choose from a half day or full day price starting at $219 per
person for groups of two or more. Individuals can learn more
about Via Ferratas and sign-up for their adventure at
www.thealpinejewel.com.
36//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#227

generally craving a feeling of space and peace when it felt
the world was going mad. I think it also helped that I was
staying high on a hill with Taranaki Maunga at the end of
my road. It felt like I could literally walk up my road and
onto the mountain, and just keep going if I wanted to. As
my parents’ flight had been cancelled and they were stuck
here for a prolonged stay as I tried to work from home,
there may have been more behind that yearning than I
want to fully examine, but I digress.
I obviously didn’t go taking up a new hobby during
lockdown, because I wouldn’t want to disappoint Auntie
Cindy, but we did regular bushwalks on the property
we were at, and walked up the road spotting kingfisher,
fantails and yellow eyes, as well as Tui and Kereru. When
we were able to I went and invested in some hiking boots.
It’s amazing the spare money I had when I stopped having
takeaways and coffees on the regular.
The Meaning of Tramping
Words and images by Charlie Ellis (Charlotte)
TW
An early start and hard work made worth it for this beautiful frosty sunrise over the Pouakai tarns
What does tramping mean to you?
To me, tramping, walking,
hiking, rambling, ‘mum walks’,
whichever words you choose for a life
outdoors, they have not always been
comfortably in my lexicon. Probably
due in no small part to that last one –
‘mum walks’. Understandably that won’t
translate to many people, actually I’d be
very surprised if anyone outside of my
immediate family gets it and if they do, I’d
love to hear from them. ‘Mum walks’ are
the name given by me and my two siblings
to the seemingly endless and directionless
rambles (tramps) my Mum would take us
on as a family when we were younger. We
would be on a caravanning holiday on the
coast or somewhere in the countryside
near a campsite that offered electricity
and nightly bingo, and Mum would declare
we were going “On A Walk”. Just as a
side note, it is a regular form of hilarity
that my Mum has a Geography degree,
as she would sometimes struggle to find
the right side of a map. Consequently,
these walks often felt long, and not quite
circular enough, with a forced air of ‘we
are enjoying the outdoors’. Also, it was
England, in summer, so drizzle, mist, rain,
thunderstorms and a biting wind were a
regular feature.
So, although I have enjoyed exploring
various parts of the world, and would seek
out various walks, botanical gardens and
generally getting into nature whenever I
could, I never saw myself as a tramper or
hiker because I tended to associate that
with dreariness and aching legs.
This changed a lot on moving to
New Zealand and exploring what this
amazing country has to offer. I went to
Abel Tasman, spent a lot of time in the
Marlborough Sounds and got myself
invited to the HOT ladies group there
(Hiking on Tuesdays with a lovely group of
retired ladies, what were you thinking??). I
had explored some of the trails in my new
hometown and when my parents came to
visit last year I dragged them all over the
place. We did suspension bridges, goblin
forests, river (stream) crossings and some
rock hopping (gingerly stepping). It was a
sneaky exercise but my dad left here the
fittest he’s been in about a decade, if not
more.
The relief and joy of accomplishing a
mother/daughter tramp of the Pouakai
Crossing. Making cherished memories.
One of the best walks I have done,
however, was with my Mum. It was before
they were due to go home, and we had
decided to do the Pouakai Crossing
in Taranaki. It’s a day walk from North
Egmont Visitor Centre to Mangorei Road.
When I say we, I don’t include my dad.
Although he was now more fit than he had
been in a long time, he was definitely more
on the support crew side of this one and
would be dropping us off at North Egmont
and picking us up at Mangorei Road. He
was devastated to be left behind with
only a log fire, coffee and a good book
to entertain himself…It was quite simply
a brilliant experience. It took us 9 hours,
and my Mum never wanted to see another
step again, but it was an experience we
will both remember and cherish from that
trip. It was a challenge we were taking on
together, and we looked after each other
the whole way. I remember feeling so
proud of my Mum, scrambling up rocks,
facing the steps, realising it was tougher
than expected but we were 4 hours in
and 4 hours to go so we may as well
push on as go back. There was definitely
a mental strength needed that day that
neither of us expected. But the payoff was
worth it. Doing the top route across to the
Holly Hut, then across the Ahukawakawa
Swamp and up the Pouakais, meant we
could then track where we’d been as this
thin line all the way across the mountain
from the Tarns. To get that visual feedback
of what we’d achieved made it all the more
special and gave us the boost we needed
to face the long steps down to our lift
home and coffee. Ok, you got me, glass
of wine.
But it wasn’t until lockdown last year that
something lit the pilot light under the idea
of ‘getting outdoors’. It must have been
a combination of things – feeling a bit
trapped in the house initially, but which
incidentally I ended up loving; feeling there
should be this global awakening and we
needed to get back to basics (but you
know, still with smartphones), and just
Shortly after going back into work, I went with one of my
friends up to the Pouakai Tarns. The aim was to walk up
in the dark and get there for sunrise. I had a newly bought
headtorch, a heavy fleece and coat, and a distorted view
of my fitness. I didn’t want to be the reason we missed
the sunrise, as my friend was so much fitter than me, so
I pushed the pace way too hard in the first place, and
ended up feeling like I might actually throw up on the
track. Embarrassment is a strong motivator however, and
I managed to keep it under control. My friend encouraged
me all the way and I believe it made our friendship even
stronger. The pay off at the top was certainly incredible.
We made porridge, and had coffee, and watched the
sunlight hit the mountain and turn it purple, and gray and
green. It felt like an absolute privilege to be there.
After that trip I realised I needed to make sure I went at
a comfortable pace, and get rid of the heavy fleece. I
invested in a down jacket and it’s just the best thing in
my whole kit. From sitting with a G &T gazing at where
a mountain should be (damn your moods Taranaki), to
sleeping outdoors watching shooting stars, to being stood
at the bitingly cold and windy midpoint of the Tongoriro
Crossing waiting for the group to get back together, to
shedding a couple of relieved and happy tears at the
Summit of Taranaki, that jacket has kept this perpetually
cold urchin nice and toasty.
I’m part of a female tramping group where I think I’ve
managed only two walks with them, but the sense of
community and inclusion doesn’t waver. Where the ‘sorry,
count me in next time’s don’t get counted, and we share
photos and advice, and encouragement as everyone is at
different levels of experience.
I think perhaps that’s part of the feeling I am chasing
when I go tramping now. The sense of achievement, the
space and love of being in nature. I feel like you could
often imagine yourself in a whole other world. Somewhere
before time, or out of time, a mini escape route, or a
recharging station. There are tramps when I wander,
looking at almost every tree and mushroom. And tramps
where I push myself, feel my lungs burning and my legs
aching, rock hopping and taking an icy cold dip on a hot
sunny day.
For me, tramping is freedom, those sore legs and a full
soul. It’s the space to breathe, to rely on myself. To let
my mind slow down and do some processing, or to get
creative with only the distraction of stunning scenery and
finding the tui or kereru I can hear. It’s brought new friends
and people into my life I didn’t imagine I needed, and
experiences I will never forget.
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Nancy Jiang
Breaking stereotypes
I recently watched a youtube movie entitled, “Her Way”
(check it out on the Adventure Website) which introduced
a woman who had an overwhelming passion for running.
The preface at the bottom of the clip, read as follows:
"Chinese-born Nancy Jiang moved with her family from
Ma'an Shan to Auckland, New Zealand when she was
five. She studied structural engineering and today is the
only female engineer in her firm. Small in stature and
needing to prove herself in the workplace, she found her
release through a love of trail running in the mountains
above Queenstown, despite having been told as a kid that
“Chinese people do not run.”
Inspired by not only her passion for running but also her
determination to smash down stereotypes, we reached out
to Nancy and this was her reply…
Crown peak saddle - summer on one side, winter on the other. Autumn makes for spectacular views on the mountain hills. I used the climb
from bracken saddle up to crown peak for a lot of my hill workouts, almost 1000m of vertical gain over 5km, it’s a tough grind to the summit.
40//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#227 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 41

I immediately think back to my run into work this morning
when I read your email. It was pissing down with rain,
pitch black at 6am in the morning and probably around 3-4
degrees in Nelson (I have recently moved to Nelson) and I
had planned this new route the night before which will take
me to work via over the hills. And heck I was not going to let
a bit of rain stop me.
So I set off in the dark, excited to run this route for the first
time and also try out my new head torch. 5 mins in, my head
torch starts flashing - damit new electronic gear always
comes with almost empty batteries. Anyway I continue, I
figured I will deal with my torch on dim mode and if it dies,
I can use my phone and eventually the sun will come up. I
begin the climb up the 4wd forestry road and suddenly I hear
this great cracking crashing noise below me. A giant pine
tree had just fallen over, probably due to the crazy amount of
rain we have had. What are the chances of a tree falling on
me...? Anyway, 2 and a half hours later I make it into work
looking like a drowned rat but so stoked and satisfied that I
did the run I had planned.
I love taking a scenic route into work, I mean if I have to
sit at a desk and stare at a computer screen for 8 hours I
might as well get my nature outdoor fix in prior. I believe
that people are not born to stay
sedentary and I get fidgety if I
do not manage to fit in a run or
bike or strength conditioning
session in beforehand. Being
outside in nature calms my
mind and recharges me for the
hectic noisey lifestyle we live
in. I actually think I am more
efficient at work too afterwards
(not confirmed yet with the boss).
When I lived in Arthurs Point, I
would run the moonlight track
and over Ben Lomond Saddle
into work in town. Those sunrises
made my day and make me feel
alive.
"Being outside in
nature calms my
mind and recharges
me for the hectic
noisey lifestyle we
live in. I actually
think I am more
efficient at work
too afterwards (not
confirmed yet with
the boss).
Going back to my starting story, I have always been very
stubborn. Not on everything, just when I decide that I am
going to do something then I become super head strong
about following it through. I remember as a kid I really
struggled with being told no I am not allowed to do something
that I wanted to do. I did well at school, always completed
my homework, learnt long division and fractions by the time
I was 7 but could not understand why all my friends could
stay out late, go to the movies but I was not allowed. When I
was 14 I was selected to represent Auckland in the NZ road
champs, My parents would not let me go. OMG the fight that
I put up for the whole week. Eventually they let me and we
podiumed. But I remember the girls on the team looking at
me judgeling. Maybe it was because I was the only non-white
person out of the entire Auckland team, or because I was the
only Asian at Nationals, or because the clothing I wore was a
little poor. Which it was.
My parents did not migrate to NZ because they were sitting
on a pot of money in China. They sold everything to be able
to come to NZ. We lived in a state house in Glen Innes for
the first year with another family. I remember playing with the
neighbours kids, they followed me home at dinner time. Stood
waiting for us to finish our meal then picked at the leftovers off
the table. In hindsight I understand my parents actions were to
protect me. I get they were scared because we were in a new
country and everything was foreign. And I always had food,
warmth and shelter.
My head strong-ness has led me on some pretty epic
adventures. I was told by my university lecturer that I would
not be able to get into engineering because I did not take
physics or calculus in High School. I taught myself the entire
NCEA syllabus over a summer and proved him wrong. Fast
forward a uni degree and 5+ years later, during my first time
to the French Alps I jumped into my first ever mountain race,
it went over 6 passes, 3000+ metres of elevation gain and
running over glaciers. Was pretty full on for someone whom
spent the last 4 years living in Hamilton. The race broke me
but opened my world up to trail and mountain running.
Later that year I was in Chamonix for UTMB week and
decided that I was going to do one of the races next year.
One year later I toed the line for OCC. On one occasion
while running in the alps, I met a swiss farmer who used to
race with my coach Jonathan Wyatt. He invited me over for
a lunch pit stop and two years later still sends me videos
of his farm. On another occasion, on a whim I sent out an
invitation on facebook to anyone who wanted to join me on a
fast packing adventure of the Richmonds Ranges. One lady
joined me and that turned out to be an adventure and a half!
In summary I am proud to say I have a passion for mountain/
trail running, mountain bikes in my spare time, tried skiing for
the first time last winter and loved it and showed my old uni
lecturer with his outdated opinions that he was wrong.
Top left: grinning from ear to ear in Advance Peak saddle, because I know a veeery long downhill is next.
Top right: Taken just after the mountain running world champs in Andorra 2018. My first time representing NZ and what a proud
moment it was. Finished 15th / Bottom: Heading up Big Hill - straight up. Because when training for Highland Events famous Mt
Difficulty Ascent, you got to take the steep way up the mountain.
After a solid hike a bike from Arrow River up to Mt Saint, we were rewarded with views of ridgelines as far as the eyes could
see and an epic ride off the beaten track down into deep skippers canyon country. Sometimes I imagine what life was like for
the hardy miners who came here in the in the early 1900’s lured by the prospect of gold and fortune.
42//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#227 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 43

Solo
Strength
by Erin Lockhart
The word 'alone' often comes with negative
TW connotations; for many, to be alone is to be lonely. But
alone is not a feeling or a consequence, it is simply a
reality. You can tramp with Tami and Jerry and Lee, or you can
tramp alone. For me, tramping alone didn't come as a natural
evolution in my outdoor experience; it was born of necessity.
On a post high-school OE in 2018, I wound up working at a
café in the Canadian Rockies. Quite the backyard for outdoor
adventure, where learning to snowboard kept me entertained
(and in pain) while I settled into mountain life. As the snow
melted though, I learned that tramping wasn't a common
priority for the hundreds of young people I had the pleasure of
living with. I was eager to get out and explore the diverse trails
in the National Parks around me so I tried to rally friends to
hike with. Week after week though, my schemes fell flat.
Granted, that is not entirely due to disinterest. Being a bunch
of backpackers working in a busy tourist town meant we all
had different schedules, few people had tramping gear, and car
owners for transport to trailheads were few and far between.
My mates just weren't as keen as I was, so organizing
adventures was always left to me. Tramping logistics, as
anyone who has organized a group tramp will know, seem a
complex hassle, when you just want to get out there.
I ended up feeling like a mother trying to entice her kids off
the PlayStation and into the backyard - though my 'kids' were
mostly older than me, and the 'PlayStation' was the infamous
party scene of the Rockies. Getting a group out on any trail
for the day, let alone a whole weekend, became an impossible
chore. You'd think to just head off solo would have been a
simple solution, but the concept hadn't even entered my mind.
I grew up doing the odd bit of tramping with my family, and
through school, as kiwi kids are privileged to do. To me,
tramping was a group activity, a team sport. I was taught to
respect the outdoors, and to never underestimate the dangers
of mother nature. 2018 was my first time in another country, I
felt young, inexperienced, and absolutely terrified of a grizzly
bear encounter. Besides, would I even still enjoy tramping sans
company?
Well, I found out mid-summer when the five mates I had
planned to climb Mt Whistlers with, successively bailed the
morning of said hike. It wasn't the first time they had done
so and I was, quite simply, fed up. Fueled by disappointment
at my flakey friends, and determined to have a good time
(if only to prove a point), I caught the last town-bus of the
day, persuading the driver to make a special drop off at the
trailhead. I climbed the damn mountain alone: it was awesome.
Tramping to Camp Stream Hut in 30 degree heat. Feb 2020
" Fueled by disappointment
at my flakey friends, and
determined to have a good
time (if only to prove a point),
I caught the last town-bus of
the day, persuading the driver
to make a special drop off at
the trailhead. I climbed the
damn mountain alone: it was
awesome."
Actually, the first hour I questioned my decision (and my fitness
level, because wow, it was steep), though once I broke treeline
and could somewhat leave my fear of a vicious bear attack
behind, I was in my element. In awe not only of the surrounding
snow-capped peaks and chubby marmots scuttering around at
my feet, but also of my 19 year old self, for her confidence (and
stubbornness) to go it alone.
Whistlers was my first lesson in what I could achieve solo. A
couple of weeks later, on a Tuesday afternoon in my dorm,
I booked a campground on the famous Skyline Trail for that
Thursday night, then caught the shuttle into town to buy a cheap,
one-woman tent. My first overnight tramp alone: 55kms, a 1500m
vertical ascent over a snowy mountain pass, a campground 4km
off the marked trail (the only one available) and a few hitchhikes
to get back home: baptism by fire. Over the following months,
through trial, some questionable decision making, fearful tears,
and indescribable feelings of achievement and pride, I found my
confidence to be alone on the trail, and as they say, the rest is
history.
Solo tramping is now the central aspect of my life. It's the thing I
enjoy the most, the thing that challenges me and that makes me
feel utterly whole. Every completion of a slightly more difficult trail
broadens both my ability, and my confidence to take on the next
one. A year on from the Skyline trail saw me return to Aotearoa,
a pack full of solo tramping experience on my back, and ready to
take on all my home country had to offer.
I now work as an Astronomy Guide in Tekapō, where outdoor
inspiration is never too hard to come by. Weekend adventures
have taken me over Stag Saddle and into the Two Thumb Range,
up to peaks in Peel Forest and Mt Somers, and over Lindis Pass
to explore Fiordland and Mt Aspiring National Parks. Or when
Aoraki lives up to his cloud piercing name, I just head down the
road, where a couple of hours of climbing will see you sunbathing
on the deck of Mueller Hut, watching dozens of Kea soar by.
A significant benefit of being able to tramp solo is the lack of
forward planning required. With a good weather forecast and a
spontaneous day off work, all I need to do is grab my pack and
go (first, letting someone know of my plans, of course). Wherever
I choose to go I can walk, rest and eat at my own pace, no
compromise, no logistical hassles.
On occasion though I do love to head into the hills with mates,
and it is always a good time. To laugh at weka together, share a
pot of Mi Goreng delicacy, and discuss those real and important
topics, the ones that only come up in the mountains - like the
future implications of cyborg on the human race, and whether
cheese should go on first or last when making pizza.
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"Those moments, the
ones that make you
feel so small in size,
but so massive in life,
that have you smiling
wide without even
meaning to, those are
the moments I hike for,
the moments I live for."
It is a great reprieve to have other ears around to listen to my
complaints about mud and speargrass, to have moments of
shared wonder, and be able to take non-selfie photos for a
change. I must admit though to pondering rather too often what
those trail experiences would be like if I were hiking alone.
Maybe I feel challenges are more rewarding when taken on
solo? Or maybe I just like my own company a bit too much.
But it is when I reach a summit and stare upon boundless
layers of jagged mountain peaks, or crest a ridge to wander
across a plateau of alpine meadow, that I am truly grateful to
be alone. Those moments, the ones that make you feel so
small in size, but so massive in life, that have you smiling wide
without even meaning to, those are the moments I hike for, the
moments I live for. Sometimes I even laugh out loud, how can
I not? The beauty and wonder of nature is incomprehensible to
my little human brain.
I am infinitely grateful to have the confidence to be able to
tramp and explore in the way that I do. Solo hiking seems,
and is, misunderstood and inaccessible to many people,
particularly to women. I have had dozens of encounters where
the first topic of conversation when I come across fellow hikers
is my lack of tramping buddies. Perhaps these people are in
the same frame of mind I was just a few years ago - unable to
understand how anyone could feel comfortable alone in such
an environment.
Though nine times out of ten, if it were a solo man they came
across, they'd simply comment on the nice weather or trail
quality, and move right along. Yet there I am, with suitable
gear, a PLB strapped around my neck, a smile on my face,
in the middle of the trail (having evidently made it that far
just fine) and somehow I am always a cause for strangers'
concern.
Social media has been an incredible platform for me to
discover the truth about solo female hikers. We are not lonely
or lost, incapable or odd, and we are not exceptionally brave.
We are many, and we love what we do - we have just been
hidden for far too long. So let the next generations of girls
grow up seeing and understanding the trails are theirs too.
No need to wait for your mates to join you ladies: get a can
of bear spray and climb the damn mountain yourself. Or
more New Zealand specific, check the river level, hide your
belongings from the possums, and start slogging through the
mud yourself.
If you love hiking then just pack a bag and head off on a trail
alone, the more you do it, the more comfortable (and addicted)
you will get. The many hours or days, and physical exertion
spent to reach those hidden, beauty filled places is always
replenished, the mountains give more than they take. When
alone on the trail it is not lonely, it is entirely the opposite. It fills
you to the brim with joy, cunning and strength, with purpose,
accomplishment and exhaustion. You become capable and
powerful, and you can do it all solo. Easy as.
In the Two Thumb Range on a 30+ degree day, February, 2020

Jenna Hastings
17 year old Jenna Hastings fell in love with bikes when she was
just 6 years old when she first started BMX racing. One of her
earliest memories is sitting in the grandstands at the North Island
Championships, held in her hometown of Rotorua, and the awe she
felt as a 6 year old watching the championships. Since then Jenna
has gone on to make a name for herself in the sport of mountain
biking and we got to chat recently about her passion…
Can you tell us a little about yourself? I am 17, I'm year 12 at school,
and I live at home with both my parents and my younger brother and sister.
As you know, I started BMX racing when I was 6 years old, and instantly
fell in love with the sport, before I even started it I knew I would love it,
sitting in the grandstands at North Island Champs 2010, which was held in
Rotorua, little 6 year old me was in awe. I have always ridden a mountain
bike, I still remember my first proper mountain bike, the girl's version of the
GT Stomper - it was pink, and my brother got a blue one to match.
I see you grew up in Rotorua, the mountain bike capital of New
Zealand, so it’s no surprise that you have found a love of biking.
What made you transition from BMX to Mountain Biking? BMX was
my passion for a good five/six years. My goal was always to make the
Mighty 11 test team twice, which is a team of eight, four boys and four
girls, which race against the Aussies for the title. I achieved my goal, being
captain of the team once, and rider number two the second time. After
Mighty 11's, my passion for continuing BMX started to dwindle, as I have
discovered my love for mountain biking. I think I just needed a change, and
mountain biking made me feel so much freer than BMX, as I can go into
the forest for hours and come in contact with nothing other than myself, my
bike, and the nature surrounding me, whereas BMX was a lot more full-on,
intense, environment.
For our readers who may not follow mountain biking as a sport, can
you tell us a little about the type of biking you enjoy and what it is
you compete in. I see you were the fastest woman on day one at the
Giant 2W Gravity Enduro. Can you tell us a little about the various
type of mountain biking you take part in and what you enjoy? I
compete in Downhill (DH) and Enduro mountain biking, both of which
I adore and enjoy so much. I have dabbled in Cross Country (XC) but
decided it wasn't for me, way too intense. Downhill is the technical stuff,
you get one run, one shot to win it or lose it, and you can lose it in a split
second, one wrong line and it can throw your whole race off. With downhill,
you get shuttled or uplifted to the top of the track, and you race down.
It can be anywhere between three and five minutes long. The bikes are
different, with more suspension, different geometry, all designed for hitting
the biggest jumps, steepest chutes, and gnarliest rock gardens. Enduro on
the other hand, is multiple stages, anywhere between five and eight, and
they all vary in length. You ride up to every stage (called a transition) and
then you race down. The down is the only part that is timed, and then the
times from all of your stages are combined to one final time. The bike you
race for enduro is also different from that in downhill, it's better equipped
to ride up the hills, more gears, smaller suspension, a steeper head angle,
although still being able to tackle the gnarliest riding.
48//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#227 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 49

Unlike some sports, when things go wrong
mountain biking, it can be quite painful
and have serious consequences. Do you
feel the fear? And if so how do you deal
with it? Fear is a very real thing for me. I find
myself constantly battling the little voice in my
head saying "what if this happens?", "what if
you crash?", "what if you lose?", "what if what
you do isn't good enough?". Riding tracks I
have never ridden before is when the fear
really kicks in because I have no idea how
fast I have to go into this jump, or how slow
to go so I make it round the corner and don't
crash. Dealing with this kind of fear is hard
sometimes, it just depends on the size of the
jump, or how steep a track is, but usually, I
find a sort of, "just send it" attitude does the
trick. On the other hand, pressure and fearing
that I won't be good enough, or people will be
disappointed with my result is a completely
different thing. Pressure is always going to be
a thing, it's probably never going to go away,
and I'm learning ways to deal with that at the
moment, but for the most part, it's knowing
that the people who really matter will be
proud no matter what my result is, and that
the most important thing is to have fun, and
the result will take care of itself.
Have you had any major injuries? If so
how have these effected your confidence?
I have had a few big crashes, a few broken
bones and some head injuries, although
not all from mountain biking, they have still
affected my confidence. Having to take time
off the bike in order to heal really sets you
back and makes you feel slow and a terrible
rider when you get back on the bike. It takes
a while to build that strength and fitness back
up so for the time being my confidence has
taken a hit. One crash in particular, back
in 2019 when I rode the Pakahi track with
a bunch of ladies called the Mud Maidens,
I managed to ride off a cliff, which really
knocked my confidence, as being in the air
terrified me because I did not want to be in a
position where I could fall from a height again.
In a perfect world, where would you see
yourself in five years time? In a perfect
world, in five years, I would be 22, coming
home for the summer, racing the NZ season,
then going back overseas to race in Europe
through their summer, our winter, both Enduro
World Series and Downhill World Cups.
That's my dream. Travelling with friends
and teammates, making new friends and
memories along the way, all while doing what
I love, which is riding my bike.
Outside of mountain biking, what do you
do for fun? I love to do anything that involves
the outdoors really. I am part of an adventure
racing team for my school, I love to go
tramping, swim, wakeboard, waterski, snow
skiing are some things I also love to do.
Previous page: Jenna Hastings, showing the downhill determination she is renowned for.
Above: Jenna in action at 3 Peaks Enduro - Image by Jemma Wells
"Pressure is always going
to be a thing, it's probably
never going to go away,
and I'm learning ways
to deal with that at the
moment, but for the most
part, it's knowing that the
people who really matter
will be proud no matter
what my result is, and
that the most important
thing is to have fun, and
the result will take care of
itself."
ALL MOUNTAIN RIDING,
UNRIVALED VERSATILITY.
RIDER | KELSEY TIMPANY
BIKE | SWITCHBLADE
50//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#227
WWW.PIVOTCYCLES.CO.NZ

From
Michigan to
Mountains
A womens journey
By Katarina Renaldi
I grew up in a part of the US where you could
TW drive for miles on a straight, wide road and
the most interesting thing to see were funny
billboards on the side of the highway. The Great
Lakes State of Michigan is in a unique place which
experiences extremely cold temperatures and plenty of
snow. With a max altitude of 600 metres, it’s not exactly
the endless landscape filled with glacial rivers and
mountains that New Zealand is.
I had always been up for a challenge, and learning to
hike and find my "zen" in the mountains brought me to
a place of new opportunity and pure bliss. I spent a lot
of my travels in New Zealand building my skill set and
exposing myself to increasingly difficult and challenging
situations.
I started by figuring out which resources worked for me
in this new realm of discovery. I used the AllTrails app
and did some of the more challenging tracks that were
still cut but may include a good amount of altitude or
distance. This app was the start of the pushing of my
abilities since I was able to keep track of completed
tracks and make lists for future endeavors, especially
helpful considering I do many of
my tramps solo.
I also started taking advantage
of the hut system in New
Zealand and learned a love for
stewardship of resources and our
environment. I've been lucky to
visit over 50 of New Zealand's
huts since I've been here and
many of those were on solo
missions.
"I've been
lucky to visit
over 50 of
New Zealand's
huts since I've
been here and
many of those
were on solo
missions."
Growing up comfortably around
snow, I leapt at the chance to be
among the beautiful mountains of Aoraki/Mt. Cook. I
took a mountaineering course in November 2020 which
bumped my skills up to the next level and gave me
confidence to walk in the snow among the mountains,
especially as a frequent solo tramper.
After this course I started moving toward more challenging
terrain and learned that the NZ TopoMaps were extremely
useful for route planning. I was taking notice of the less
accessed places and started looking toward backcountry
huts and how I could volunteer to help maintain the access
we had to these stunning places. I would walk tracks and
move large branches/logs that blocked the track, I'd cut
away bush lawyer that would grab at faces and clothing,
I'd make cairns to indicate where the route went when old
52//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#227
markers had long fell away, and I would remove excess
rubbish from hut facilities when I walked out. It was such
an enriching experience for me that I began to apply for
positions within the Department of Conservation even
though I knew these were hard to come by. I wanted to
make a difference and help support the access we had to
these locations.
I've recently made the move to the Wild West Coast and
found an opportunity to work with DOC through Kaimahi
for Nature, supporting local Kiwi businesses that were
struggling during the aftermath of the pandemic. I
started doing invasive species control and have had the
opportunity to work on the Alex Knob track, upgrading it
to allow for safer walking along the track.
Among other amazing locations, the West Coast has
access to a lot of remote huts (remotehuts.co.nz) and
I've started to visit some of them, including a recent solo
mission to Butler Junction Hut and Ice Lake which put
my night navigation skills to the test after accidentally
following a flagged trail that seemed like it would lead
me around treefall, but actually just wasted a lot of time
and precious daylight. I'm happy to carry a GPS/PLB
which allows me to check in with loved ones on my
solo missions. Since I've built my time in New Zealand
around hiking, I'm hoping that this brief article can give
you an idea of how to scale up your skills and learn
to confidently tramp solo as well as be a steward of
the environment. Below I will list the resources I use
frequently and ways I've found inspiration for trips,
essential gear I take, as well as some of my favorite
tramps to date.
Resources to use
• AllTrails: great beginner app when you don't have a
clear idea of what you'd like to do
• NZ Topo50/New Zealand Maps: good for contour
lines and getting an idea of terrain before you head
out. You can also plan routes and save them as
well as follow your location on a track
• Instagram hashtags: look up the hashing for
where you want to go to see if you can find some
additional inspiration!
• Remotehuts.co.nz: for when you're ready to get a
bit more rugged and into challenging terrain
• Climbnz.org.nz: great for grading routes, I usually
stick to 1+/2 grade routes for my current abilities
when solo
• Yr.no: great for rainfall
• Windy.com: gives an idea of wind in the area,
especially useful if you can read weather patterns
and want to hike/camp in alpine areas
• Southernalpsphotography.com: great photo
inspiration with detailed route maps included
Essential gear
• PLB/GPS
• NZ TopoMaps: download and pay for them, its worth it to be
able to save your own routes and to use the maps offline! The
location works without phone reception.
• Compass
• Emergency warmers
• Strong head torch for night walking with a red light function
• Emergency bivy
• Extra warmth: buffs, hat, 2-3 pair gloves, extra thick socks
• Power bank/battery pack: 10,000 or more maH (enough to
charge your most essential device(s) at least once)
Favorite tramps
• Rees-Dart track with a side trip to Cascade Saddle: 4-5 days
• Esquilant Biv/Mt. Earnslaw: 2-3 days
• Welcome Flat Hut via Copland track: overnight or 2 days
• Mt. Brown: day trip or overnight
• Mueller Hut and Mt. Olivier: day trip or overnight
• Barker Hut/White Col/Mt. Murchison: 2-4 days
• Tongariro crossing: day trip or do the Northern circuit in 2-4 days
• Mt. Burns tarns: ~2 hours or continue on to find a camp
overnight
• Gillespie Pass circuit and Lake Crucible: 2-3 days
• Dore Pass route: 8 hours or overnight camp
• Gertrude Saddle: 4-6 hours or overnight camp
Barker Hut in Arthur's Pass National Park. I took my new mountaineering gear out for a test ride and headed up toward White Col to attempt
Mt. Murchison. When I got there, I mistakenly took the winter route instead of the summer

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ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 55

North West Circuit
Stewart Island
Words by Cristina Barraclough
I found myself in limbo during the winter of 2020, inbetween
jobs in a strained covid economy. And so, I did
TW
what any outdoors person would do with a large amount
of free time on their hands. It was time to pack-up my
belongings and hit the road. It was time to leave behind home
comforts and go adventure-seeking. A long and ambling winter
road trip finally took us down to the bottom of the South Island.
And by us, I mean myself and my friend Emma, who luck would
have it was just as into the outdoors, and launching themselves
into any opportune adventure, as I was. Sometimes even more
so than me. We had spent the road trip encouraging each other
to go surfing in the brisk winter seas with no hot shower awaiting
us; hiking for several days even in the rain when no-one else
would and taking icy dips in glaciated lakes to the bemused
stares of onlookers.
By the time we had made it the bottom of the South Island,
we had perfected our routine of living out of a car, adding in
adventures and making hearty meals out the back of the boot in
the cold, dark early evenings. So far, we had learnt a lot, it was
time to test ourselves and our friendship with a big mission.
There were two obvious options to satisfy our desire for
adventure down at the tip of the South Island – head to Stewart
Island: 1. The Rakiura Track. 2. The North-West Circuit. Option
1 was too short to feel like we would have fully submerged
ourselves into the wilderness of Stewart Island. And it was ruled
out. That left us with ambitious Option 2. Part of an adventure
for me is challenging yourself, going beyond your comfort zone
without being rash.
The North-West Circuit is a 9-11 day tramp covering 125km in
the remote wilderness, with no opportunity to resupply nor much
likelihood of meeting many other people. There is only one town
on the whole of Stewart Island – Oban. In hiking terms, 125km is
not often that far to achieve over this period of time, but the time
and distance indicated how rough the terrain would be in relation
to other hikes.
Arriving in Invercargill we were still uncommitted to a decision.
We found ourselves semi-committed traipsing round on a grey
day buying additional gear: gaiters, pack-liners and the likes.
The array of gear needed for an infamously muddy and wet
tramp. Next, most importantly, we picked up a personal locator
beacon with a registered time we were due out. I guess we were
committed now.
The decision felt daunting as we both weighed up our tramping
experience (combined we had a lot). However, usually for 5 days
or longer we were with someone more experienced than us.
That night as we sat eating a carb-loaded meal in a bare hostel
kitchen, we rationalised our thoughts and logically addressed
any issues we may encounter and how to prevent and overcome
them. This gave us more certainty and eased any qualms we
had.
The boat bumped along over the yawning swell of the Forveaux
Strait. An albatross swooped. And coffee sloshed. No-one else
was clad in hiking gear except for two other females who sat
a few rows behind; but they were fast asleep oblivious to the
Forveaux.
Bag after bag unloaded at the dock. We were behind schedule
as the boat had arrived late, which was kind of amusing,
especially as we needed to purchase a map which had been
nowhere to be found in Invercargil. So, with a smile and a grunt
I ended up hauling our two backpacks onto my shoulders as
Emma ran ahead to source us a map. Under their hefty weight
I struggled to walk swiftly, we urgently needed to get over
to another bay for the next leg of our journey. The only boat
departure to our starting point was leaving in 15 minutes. With
the first hurdle already upon us, the buzz of an adventure set in.
The black smooth waters of Patterson Inlet swooshed under
the plaining boat. Deeper and deeper we went into the swampy
maze and closer and closer the bush crept in.
“So how long are you out for?” asked the remaining passengers:
an older American couple.
“8 days - if all goes to plan” I added carefully. The boat ride cut
one day off the itinerary; enabling us an extra day in case of
emergencies.
“Wow, good luck, that beer will be calling by the end!”
And with that the boat belted off leaving only silence. No going
back now.
Slap bang in the middle of the swampy plain, day one saw us travel
clockwise from the east side to the west as the board walk cut
directly through the island’s heart. Either side of the valley the ferns
and beeches rose, and nothing else. That night we witnessed our
first kiwi. Seeing the rare native bird was a treasured moment and a
welcome start to our first night on the trail.
Dawn broke as we broke free from the sand dunes. The longest
beach on the island lay before us running for over 7km. Our
footprints lay crisp in the sand at Mason Bay and the pinks
peered out across the sea. The early start ensured the low tide
route was accessible as we were keen to avoid unnecessary
travel up and down sand dunes with laden packs.
These two first days were our biggest; an estimated 7 hour
tramp each of the days with over 8 days worth of gear on our
backs. The thick bush greeted us sharply at the end of the long
stretch of smooth sand. It was time to embrace the island mud
and bush.
Looking back after a short sharp incline, Emma’s head bobbed
up every now and then between abundant ferns and grasses.
Not yet accustomed to such awkward terrain, she trudged along
- “Howa’ you finding it?” I called out.
“This is full on” her voice travelled faintly through the thick
foliage. There was no arguing that. We had agreed to be honest
with how we were feeling being in such close, intense conditions
for over a week in the wilderness. Early on we had to agree
to go at our own pace occasionally, taking it in turns to stop
and watch as the other caught up offering up necessary food,
motivation or distracting conversation. Slowly over the next
few days our pace quickened and our minds eased as we let
ourselves follow the rhythm of our footsteps.
Atop a rocky pinnacle the South Pacific Sea winked below
as glorious sun caught its calm turquoise surface. The sharp,
weather-beaten Ruggedy Islands pierced out of the blueness;
a stark reminder of the harsh conditions this island bore. To the
east the swathes of greens swept across vast hills. It was well
over an hour before we drew our eyes away from this panoramic
view of raw wilderness and continued on our descent into the
forest. Muddy trails would give way to open beaches, which
was always a welcome relief. They made for scenic lunch spots
if you could stand the swarm of sand-flies. Our rhythm often
changed pace, beaches would give way to boulder fields and
dunes would drown our boots.
But you can’t forget the mud for long. Three nights in and there
had still been no encounters with people in the huts. However,
in one of the logbooks a previous hiker had left a haiku poem in
solidarity. Eloquently, it read:
"muddy muddy mud
muddy muddy muddy mud
muddy muddy mud"
Bursting out laughing Emma and I almost spurted out our
mochaccinos, a luxury item we had afforded ourselves, as we
sat by the dim candle musing over these old trail notes. Each
night a large meal was prepped over a small stove. On the
menu was either $1 dehydrated pasta sachets, couscous or
backcountry cuisine meals bulked out with indulgent toppings
such as cheese and a fresh vegetable here and there. Either
made for a mouth-watering meal that satisfied our growling
stomachs. The evening routine was topped off with a game of
cards with our feet up by the fire, tucked away in the remote,
far-flung huts. And so, each new day setting out on the muddy
trail the poem’s lines would reel around in my head, syncing with
each squelching footstep. Yet, the blessings must have been
with us because with our newly experienced steps the mud
barely ever came above our gaiters. It felt as though we had
been granted a relatively easy passage.
The good omens kept on coming. Day Four saw soft Manuka
forests which were a treat for our feet. The cool shade of the
forest offered an idyllic lunch spot sunbathing above a steep
cliff overlooking the still-turquoise sea. Although there had been
interludes of rain which seemed to bring the kiwis out roaming
and rooting; Stewart Island was uncharacteristically sunny.
Long-Harry’s Hut sat proudly atop a grand sea cliff in the sun
Breaking out of the bush and mud and soaking up panoramic views
The North West Circuit rewards you with many stunning, remote beaches
56//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#227 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 57

surrounded by the forgiving Manuka forest. As we drew closer
the clues we were not alone became apparent: the stiff drying
socks, the strewn hiking poles.
“Hi there! Where have you come from?” Out bound a hiker,
greeting us. It was the woman we had seen napping on the ferry.
Quickly, as often happens in remote huts, each of us exchanged
our short stories from the hike and from our lives. It just so
happened we had run into Tara Mulvany and her Canadian-Kiwi
friend Kim. I knew the day had a good feel to it and meeting one
of adventure heroes on our very own mission confirmed that.
The next few days flew by in green and brown blurs interjected
with the blues of brisk ocean dips. The shorter hiking days,
which were only a few hours between huts as our pace
quickened, saw us with ample time to soak up hut life. Hut
afternoons were idled away at the private beaches, for as long
as we could bear the sandflies, coming up with child-like games
and even indulging in darts at one hut. Laughter filled the musty
air as one of my darts ricocheted off the dart board, “maybe
it’s a sign I should go to… Indonesia” I giggled as I read which
country the dart had pinned on the laid out world map.
Another evening we exchanged more short life stories with a
solo female hiker who was on her holidays from medic school
and had turned to aspirations of hiking the Te Araroa trail after
her plans to travel Europe had to be postponed. It is always
interesting to see what has spurred people on to take on remote
wilderness adventures.
Even when the days were long, the mud seemed endless
and legs began to tire, Emma and I knew how fortunate we
were to do this trip. When the hours seemed to drag on before
the hut appeared I would stop, reassess, and savour each
footstep, relishing the fresh air and luscious green nature I was
submerged in.
As civilisation drew closer, that familiar bitter sweet feeling
arose. The trail turned to the Great Walk gravel. No more mud –
each mud pool had been categorised by our ‘new encyclopaedia
of mud’: the kind you could confidently stride through, the gooey
kind, the kind that would suck you in one shoe at a time, the list
goes on. Many moments were spent documenting this diversity
in mud. It was hilarious entertainment at the time, however rewatching
the videos of two wild women delirious over mud we
determined the footage was only for our eyes.
Emma and I looked at each other knowingly. The wilderness
was at our backs. The friendship I formed with Emma bonding
over these adventures made for an empowering experience
and an enduring friendship like that of a close childhood friend.
Reflecting, it was also funny that is was solely women on the
tramp during that time and it really spoke to me.
“Should we stay one more night?”
Emma and I lingered in that last hut. But our rations were low,
our time was over and the cool beer was calling. Loudly. As we
strode on and hit the road the remaining 5km to town felt like 50.
A few cars slowed a kilometre or so from Oban as if to offer us
a lift, but we waved our weathered hands and lightly shook our
heads. Determined to hike each of those steps back to the start;
we had come too far not to complete the circuit.
Soon we were rejoicing and sipping away at a chilled lager in
the local pub surrounded by skippers, Stewart Island’s main
inhabitants, relaxing back into civilisation. Several jugs down
and no pizza crumbs left, our bellies were as content as we
were. The hum of human chatter filled our ears after a long
absence. Showers and soap were reintroduced into our lives,
but not yet fresh clothes – we would have to wait until the
mainland for that.
The touting sound rose in the crisp morning air as the ship left
the small harbour of Oban. The deep blue swell was back and
ocean spray washed onto our faces and down onto the deck as
we stood at the rails smiling, satisfied; watching the deep greens
and purple of Stewart Island slip into the distance.
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The non-muddy side of Stewart Island: the welcome breaks from the mud
58//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#227

Vicky with her
family and her
completion
medal
A Mt Oxford Odyssey Mum
by Vicky Havill
When it comes to discussions
TW around adventure not many
people attach the word mum
in the description. To be fair
many mums wouldn’t put their name
and adventure in the same sentence
either. In 2019 a survey conducted by
Sport England revealed that 61% of
women feel guilty about taking time to
exercise. Women are literally putting
the importance of their own health below
that of their families. It's no wonder
when we live with this kind of guilt that
somewhere along the road we can lose
ourselves. We lose our confidence, our
sense of self-worth and our resilience.
We spend time helping our children
create resilience and build confidence.
Encouraging them to become strong
and brave, ready to face the world. But
what about us? Personally I can’t think
of a better way to help them become a
strong and brave adult than to be one
ourselves.
This was very much my story, parenting
had become my life. To love another
human as much as a mother loves their
child is a powerful force. But we have to
put on our own oxygen masks first. To
become our own best selves.
Seven years ago I was unfit and
unmotivated, my children were young at
five and three and I decided I wanted to
get fit. I had to make a conscious effort
to put aside my guilt which wasn’t easy.
But it started me on a journey full of
challenge and adventure that made me
fitter and stronger than I had ever been
in my life.
Those first few years of getting fit saw
me running trails all over the South
Island and helped me rediscover myself.
I kept my training varied whilst I worked
out what really made me tick. As well
as trail running, I tried strength training,
open water swimming, rock climbing,
hiking and even took part in a triathlon
just to see what it was like. I had my
fair share of niggly injuries crop up as
my mind and body fought against each
other. My mind often wanted to push my
body further than it was ready to go. ‘A’
for effort, not always execution. Despite
this I did make progress and finally,
this year, having already completed
numerous half mountain marathons
I felt confident and strong enough to
"My mind often wanted
to push my body further
than it was ready to go.
‘A’ for effort, not always
execution."
give my local mountain marathon a go.
The Mt Oxford Odyssey. Advertised as
New Zealand’s toughest marathon it
would push my body further than it had
ever been, across 42kms of mountains
which included 3500m of brutal elevation
gain. Luckily I love a challenge. Each
one I conquer helps me grow a little
bit stronger mentally and physically. I
decided I would rather get to the start
line and not finish than not start at all.
The week preceding the event I found
myself swinging unpredictably and
erratically between excitement and
absolute abject fear. Two days before
the event I made the mistake of looking
at the athlete line up. To discover that
only 10 women were entered; this
sent my mind spinning into all kinds of
destructive self-talk.
“They must all know something I don’t.
I’m just an average runner. I’m kidding
myself if I think I can do this. My body
will give up and I’m going to have to
be helicoptered out, it's going to be
mortifying. I am so out of my league.”
These irrational thoughts seemed all too
real in those moments of doubt.
I worked hard to turn my own rhetoric
round and tell myself it would be an
adventure that I was strong and fit
enough to overcome. Easier said than
done, but somehow I found myself on
the morning of the event inside a tent
with all the other competitors sheltering
from the pouring rain. I felt like an
imposter.
The race organisers ran us through the
race brief and we left the comfort of the
tent and headed out into the rain, turning
on our head torches as we went. We left
the start line and the race was on. I very
quickly settled in as a back of the pack
runner. This was OK with me but to be
fair, I had no choice. There were some
incredible athletes in the event and I
had only decided to enter 6 weeks prior.
I hadn’t trained long enough or hard
enough to deserve to be anywhere close
to the front. The point of me being there
was to overcome a fear and have an
adventure which would take me further
over my home mountains than I had
been before.
The dark start meant that the gradient
in front of me couldn’t become
overwhelming. It broke down the course
into sections only as large as my head
torch would allow. I powered on upwards
for the first 5km until I popped out of the
bush line where my protection from the
weather rudely disappeared. The wind
was cold, the rain wet and as I made my
way higher and closer to the summit it
got worse and the rain turned to snow.
The ground went from wet to white.
My hands grew ridiculously cold and I
watched my legs turn purple. My gloves
which were already wet now started to
freeze and I lost feeling in my hands. I
pushed on and finally arrived at the top
to be greeted by the smiling race officials
and LandSAR team. They cheered me
on and we shared some banter as I
shuffled past them. By this time my legs
had gone numb and foot placement
became tricky.
I carried on along the ridge line and
started down the first 1000m descent,
enjoying the respite from the cold biting
wind. It was slow going and probably
the hardest section of the race for me.
What was already a very long, technical
section of track had been turned into
a mudslide from all the rain. I did a
mixture of slow sliding and controlled
ungraceful falling from tree to tree. My
shoes became heavy and caked in mud
negating all of the grip on the undersole.
I couldn’t imagine how I was going to get
back up this track.
At the bottom I reached the Wharfedale
hut, the first of 3 hut visits for the day.
I was greeted by the most cheerful of
ladies wearing tutu’s ready to tick my
#16 off the list. They offered all manner
of food, drink and encouragement. After
a quick selfie with them, because well,
priorities, I headed off. I still had a long
way to go. The gradient gave only brief
respite before the next climb began and
I cannot explain how relentless this felt.
I could see no competitors either in front
or behind me and I felt a strange sense
of isolation. I’m no stranger to being in
the bush alone and normally love it but
today wasn’t like other days. Every now
and again panic would rise as I thought
about how much more of the course
there was to go and this time the daylight
allowed me to see the track in all its
disgustingly steep glory. One foot in front
of the other is all I could keep telling
myself.
A passing runner said it was only 20
minutes to Black hill hut where I would
do another check in. Thank goodness, I
was just about losing the will to live with
this ever continuing hill. I tried to listen to
an audio book, my normal go to when I
am in the hills, but unable to concentrate
I turned on some music instead. This
was good, this was getting me back into
the rhythm.
On the next descent my knees started
to hurt. They are a work in progress and
I hadn’t had enough time to strengthen
them as much as I would have liked
in preparation. This slowed me down
considerably but I kept on plowing on
trying to ignore the pain and accept
it as a partner that would accompany
me on and off for the next few hours.
Fortunately it was only the steep
downhill sections that caused me pain,
unfortunately the steep sections in this
marathon are plentiful.
I reached the Wharfedale hut for the
second time and ran through as quickly
as I could saying a farewell to my tutu
adorned friend’s and set off to tackle the
last climb of the day. It was that blasted
mudslide again. I dug my poles in time
after time and hauled myself up that
section, it was utterly exhausting.
Once at the top of Mt Oxford for the
second and final time I knew that short
of some catastrophe I was actually going
to cross the finish line and earn my
completion medal. Phew!
I began my final descent and hello knee
pain, you’re back again! Thankfully by
the last gently descending 4kms it all
but disappeared and I was able to get
into a lovely pace on tracks that felt
comfortingly familiar. I smiled to myself
and suddenly felt disappointed that the
race was almost over.
Finally I could see the finish line. The
crowds had long gone home by this point
so there weren't many people around
it. Slow and steady clearly doesn’t win
the race but it does complete it. As I
ran across the line to the cheers of
my children, husband and friends and
accepted my completion medal I knew I
would do it all again one day.
Out of 45 people who completed the
marathon course this year, only 7 of
those were women. I challenge you
mums out there to change this. We
deserve to be out there too, we deserve
to take the time to make our mind and
bodies fit, strong and healthy. We owe it
to ourselves to find and overcome new
challenges and we owe it to our children
too. Your best self will also make you the
best mother and role model you can be.
So shed that guilt and don’t do it despite
your children, do it because of your
children.
Follow vicky on Instagram
@wild_vs-mumma
The Top of Mt Oxford gave harsh weather conditions on the day. Snow and ice on the ground, falling snow, freezing temperatures
and limited visibility.
60//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#227 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 61

The pure joy
of Adventure racing
I was first introduced to Adventure racing back in 2008 when
a friend stumbled across an advertisement for the Autumn
Challenge. It was a women’s only event, organised by 5x
Adventure Racing World Champion, Nathan Fa’avae. What
appealed to us back then, was the idea of challenging ourselves
across a range of activities, but unlike other multi sports,
adventure racing was all about teamwork, and that struck a
chord.
Our team of three were from different parts to the country and
we followed a training programme laid on by Nathan and his
team and caught up once a month to train together. Another
appeal of the race was the fact that it was held in remote parts of
the country and racing was done in the “real” outdoors; rafting,
navigating and mountain biking through some rugged terrain.
I remember one of my first surprises turning up on race day
being the variety of women that had chosen to take part. I had
wrongly assumed that this type of adventure would be for the
hard core mountain women, how wrong I was. Adventure racing
had attracted women of all ages, shapes and sizes, and from all
over the country.
And to answer any niggling questions, no, you
don’t have to be a fitness freak to take part.
There are a range of length of races to choose
from, that cater from everything to the novice to
the pros, the only difference between them being
the length it takes to finish. That means that
no matter what your ability level, you all get to
experience the same challenges.
"Adventure
racing had
attracted
women of all
ages, shapes
and sizes, and
from all over
the country."
Roll on to 2021 and adventure racing is the new
trend… In the 70’s it was running, in the 80’s
it was triathlon and in the 90’s mountain biking
ploughed on to the scene. But if popularity
is measured by the number of races and the
number of participants, adventuring racing it the ‘big’ new thing.
Bigger still is women specific adventure races.
Women specific races sell out within minutes of opening. So
what is it that keeps everyone coming back? As I was putting this
article together and collecting photos from past events, the thing
that really stood out to me was the pure joy on people’s faces.
From having since competed in numerous races myself, I can tell
you that these images are truly a reflection of the feelings while
competing. Sure there are moments when you are wishing there
were no more hills to climb, but 90% of the time, it’s a blast.
Since my first adventure race back in 2008, I’ve taken part in
quite a few and loved every one of them. We have rafted, paddle
boarded, kayaked, hiked, biked, clay bird shot, abseiled, swam,
solved riddles, the list goes on. Each event has a different flavour
but each focuses on teamwork and challenging yourself, rather
than where you are placed in the race. We have got to immerse
ourselves in some of the most beautiful parts of our country and
meet some incredible people along the way.
Since Nathan opened adventure racing up to the masses with his
Autumn Challenges, there are now a plethora of races to choose
from around the country. Each year Nathan and his wife, Jodie,
run the Spring Challenge, both in the North and the South Island,
each year at a different location. This year the Spring
Challenge North will be held in the Hawkes Bay and
the Spring Challenge South in Greymouth.
Another event we are looking forward to competing
in is the Wander Women race held in Russell later
this year. It will be the first time we’ve done this
event, but going on the other events run by Soaked in
Adventure, which we took part in earlier this year, I am
sure this will be just as awesome.
It would be impossible to list every adventure event
available, so let your fingers do the walking and
google search adventure races in your area and I am
sure you will find something to suit. So get out there,
get involved, and we’ll see you there...
EVENTS NOT TO BE MISSED!
Spring Challenge South - Greymouth:
October 1st-3rd 2021
Spring Challenge North - Hawkes Bay:
October 15th-18th 2021
www.springchallenge.co.nz
Wander Women Adventure Race - Russell:
13th November 2021
www.soakedinadventure.co.nz
Spirited Women’s North - Hawkes Bay:
25th - 27th February 2022
Spirited Women’s South - Wanaka:
1st - 3rd April 2022
www.spiritedwomen.co.nz
Top to bottom: Spring Challenge / Spirited Women's / Soaked in Adventure / Wander Women Adventure Race
The rafting section of the Spring Challenge
62//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#227 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 63

Belinda Stuart
Making colourful merino in NZ
Belinda Stuart grew up in a small
town in Indiana known for its flat
expansive horizon, sprawling
corn fields, and extreme seasons.
“Keeping fit was character building,”
she recalls, “Running at 5am to
avoid the summer heat, or having ice
covered eyelashes running through
the snowy winters.
Around the age of 19 Belinda started
traveling. University included a term
of study in Europe and later a brief
trip to a glass studio in New Zealand
pursuing a working apprenticeship.
After discovering the rich creative
culture and easy climate of Nelson,
on her return to Indiana Belinda wrote
letters every week until finally being
offered a job. In 1997 almost 8 weeks
after finishing her degree, Belinda
left her family and home in Indiana
to start an adventure unaware that it
would last for so long.
Belinda's apprenticeship at the
Höglund's glassblowing studio lasted
4 years. In that time she joined a local
running club to meet new faces and
learn the area. Nelson is a magical
place surrounded by trail covered
hills. "I felt spoiled being able to wear
shorts while running outside every
day of the year!" In 2001 Belinda left
glassblowing and picked up a less
physical part time job working in a
graphic design office which allowed
more time to focus on training. In
2003 she was selected to travel with
the New Zealand Mountain Running
Team to the world trophy event, then
again in 2004. By her last season
of racing Belinda was a consistent
podium finisher at a national level and
had set a few course records each
lasting for nearly 10 years.
When Belinda retired from chasing
races, it was really only the racing
that stopped. “A number of my friends
were active in the local multi-sport
adventure racing scene and I started
spending my weekends with them
running, mountain bike, and learning
how to keep a down river kayak
upright out in the sea. It was a lot of
fun.”
“It wasn’t until travelling
to visit New Zealand, she
realised that there was a
place in this world where
she finally made sense.
Nelson, New Zealand was
that first port of call. The
rich creative culture, and
very easy climate was a
huge draw card.”
"I saw a huge need
for someone to make
garments that had
all of the practical
requirements for hitting
the trails but were much
more about having fun in
their appearances. Sturdy
enough to hit the ground
at speed, but nice enough
to head out to a cafe."
At that time there was little sportswear
available that was not heavily branded
polyester or drab solid coloured merino.
Having spent years being a billboard for
the shops and brands that supported my
racing, I saw a need for someone to make
a garment designed to go out and play.
Sturdy and comfortable, yet suitable for a
coffee date."
Yank was set up as a company in 2012
and research commenced, working
out how to turn an idea into a garment.
Everything had to be put aside for a few
years while navigating the challenges
of early motherhood. When family life
finally settled into a manageable rhythm,
Belinda’s vision was rekindled and she
started drawing ideas through the wee
hours of the night after her family had gone
to bed. “Yank was literally started from a
tiny office under the staircase in my home.”
By March 2019 the first collection of shirts
were made and the website went live. Yank
merino was born.
Yank merino clothing features Belinda’s own
original designs which are printed directly
onto the fabric. Garments designed to be
comfortable and fun. “It sounds selfish when I
admit that my target market has always been
me. The first time a returning customer put
into words my reasoning to start Yank I was
blown away. That was only the beginning.
Since then I have received many messages
of appreciation and relish in stories about
friendships that have started because of
something as simple as a colourful merino
shirt that was made in New Zealand.”
Still being fairly new to the market Yank is
technically a one woman band. "I have a
small network of amazing skilled hands who
I contract certain parts of the making process
to. All of them also small independent New
Zealand businesses."
“Yank merino clothing features
Belinda’s own original designs which
are printed directly onto the fabric.”
Last year Covid was the source of huge
uncertainty not knowing what the roll on
effects would be like for such a small startup
business. "In all honesty I believe Covid
helped solidify the relationships that I have
with my printing and sewing team. It was
really incredible to be able to keep a slow
but steady stream of work contracted out to
them, making it possible for their businesses
to also keep moving forward."
All images by Virginia Woolf
It was during the First Nation wide lock down
when Yank experienced the first big surge
in sales due to people looking specifically
for goods being made here in New Zealand.
Business has been relatively steady every
since.
64//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#227 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 65

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HOKA Speedgoat 4 $299.95
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Merrell Alpine Sneaker $199.00
Let the retro vibe take over in sneakers so
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SALEWA MOUNTAIN TRAINER 2 GORE-TEX® $399.90
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SALEWA WILDFIRE EDGE GORE-TEX® $399.90
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Merrell Bravada $229.00
This female focused hiker features the fit and feel
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scarpa ribelle Hd $599.99
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SALEWA WOMENS ALPENROSE 2 MID GTX $389.90
Our Alpenrose 2 Mid GORE-TEX® is a dedicated
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68//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#227
SALEWA MOUNTAIN TRAINER LITE MID GORE-TEX® $399.90
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SALEWA MOUNTAIN TRAINER MID GORE-TEX® $499.90
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Comfort lining. At the ankle, the Flex Collar allows
natural movement and the 3F System provides
flexibility, support and a blister-free fit. Underfoot we
feature a dual-density Bilight TPU midsole and a
Vibram® WTC outsole.
WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA
Merrell Tremblant Polar Waterproof $349.00
Designed for frozen winters. This mid-cut boot
takes on cold conditions with super-comfortable,
200 grams of low bulk insulation and a waterproof
lining. Stay warm and dry.
WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ
La Sportiva TX5 GTX - Ladies $399.95
High-cut protective comfortable tramping shoe
designed for hikers and backpackers with
heavy loads. Gore-Tex allows waterproofness
& breathablility. 3D Flex system for freedom of
movement.
WWW.MOUNTAINADVENTURE.CO.NZ
Meindl Island Lady Rock $699.00
The Island Lady Rock is purpose built for hardcore
multi-terrain tramping. Shock absorbent PU
and Carbon Fibre sole unit, BC Category injury
prevention and ankle support, DiGA-Fix lacing,
Goretex, memory foam padding, and excellent
protective randing. Fit Slim. Weight 720gm.
WWW.MEINDL.CO.NZ

KEEPING OUT THE COLD
Rab Amy Hoodie $199.95
Casual and comfortable, our Amy Hoody is
perfect for crisp autumn walks and summer
evenings around the campsite. Easy to wear,
you'll instantly notice the Amy Hoody's soft
texture and reassuring warmth.
WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ
Outdoor Research Archangel GORE-TEX® Jacket $999.99
Built for and by alpine climbers for protection from the
elements with 3-layer GORE-TEX® Pro and full mobility
with a 3-layer GORE-TEX® Pro Stretch panel along the
upper back. Features a trim fit, a helmet-compatible hood
with a wire brim, Dynamic Reach underarm panels for
reach without riding up, pit zips for ventilation and packand
harness-compatible pockets. Men’s version also
available.
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ/CLOTHING
Outdoor Research Vigor Full Zip Hoodie $199.99
Layer up on your cold-weather adventures. Grid
fleece fabric for warmth combines with thermoregulating
ActiveTemp technology to wick sweat
and manage your body temperature in quickly
changing conditions. Ideal as a midlayer for really
cold days or as an outer layer on cool days. Men’s
version also available.
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ/CLOTHING
Rab Vapour-Rise Alpine Light Jacket $299.95
As part of our highly technical Ascent range,
the Women’s VR Alpine Light Jacket comes
with a double-ended YKK VISLON® front
zip, plus a lightweight elasticated hood with
windproof peak. It also features large venting
chest pockets for extra airflow, as well as
elasticated cuffs and an adjustable hem for a
tailored fit.
WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ
macpac Women's Névé Three-In-One Reflex
Jacket $599.99
Warm and dry just about anywhere, the Névé’s
inner down jacket and external shell can be
worn separately or simultaneously. Great for
wearing on the snow at resorts, it’s a jacket you
can adjust to every winter adventure.
WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ
Merrell Ridgevent Hybrid Jacket $399.00
Stay warm, dry, and responsible. With DownPlus+
insulation made up of 65% responsibly sourced
waterproof goose down and 35% ultra-fine
Primaloft synthetic fibres, it’s your go-to layer of
warmth when you're on the move.
WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ
Patagonia Bivy Jacket $459.99
This iconic jacket has some
improvements: The Westernstyle
yoke is still made with
100% recycled nylon fabric, but
the body is now 100% recycled
polyester ripstop insulated with
600-fill-power 100% Recycled
Down. It’s also Fair Trade
Certified sewn.
WWW.PATAGONIA.CO.NZ
Macpac Women's Jupiter Hooded
Down Jacket $319.99
Cosy, light, and uncomplicated,
the Jupiter works by using 650
loft RDS duck down to trap your
body’s heat and keep you toasty.
It’s packable, warm and equally
ideal on crisp mornings, cold days
and chilly nights.
WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ
Rab Nexus Pull-on $139.95
The Nexus Pull-On is a midlayer
made with stretch fleece for
mobility and comfort - it will
quickly become your go-to
lightweight technical fleece. The
Nexus Pull-On is made with
Thermicstretch fleece, a soft
comfortable fabric in a regular fit.
WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ
Rab Kaon Jacket $399.95
Conceived as the next step in
insulated layers, the Women’s Kaon
Jacket employs a combination of
high-loft hydrophobic down, quickdrying
synthetic fill and insulationfree
underarm sections for the ideal
balance of warmth, protection and
movement. Its intelligent zoning
of materials uses 800 fill power
European goose down in the body,
quick-drying Stratus insulation in
the cuffs, shoulders and hips and
Pertex Quantum Air panels under
the arms.
WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ
Outdoor Research Archangel
GORE-TEX® Bibs $999.99
Extreme protection from the elements
with 3-layer GORE-TEX® Pro and
full mobility with 3-layer GORE-TEX®
Pro Stretch panels where you need
them - on the knees, lower back
and crotch gusset. Other features
include top to bottom zips, adjustable
venting and cuff size adjustments to
fit climbing or ski touring boots. Men’s
version also available.
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ/CLOTHING
macpac Women's Chord Softshell
Hooded Coat $299.99
A combination of urban style and
outdoor functionality, the Chord’s
breathable three-layer fabric is warm
and water-resistant. The coat has a
flattering fit, two-way front zip and a
warm fleece lining.
WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ
Outdoor Research Blackpowder II
Pants $439.99
Slimmed-down and streamlined ski
pant: Pertex® Shield for waterproof,
windproof performance, a polyester
tricot upper leg lining is soft and
warm against your thighs, a taffeta
lower leg lining adds durability and
comfort to your calves and a heavyduty
scuff guard protects your ankles
for abrasion. Features avalanche
beacon pocket and internal gaiters.
Men’s version also available.
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ/CLOTHING
macpac Women's Accelerate PrimaLoft®
Fleece Vest $199.99
Lightweight, warm, and water resistant,
Accelerates are ideal for exercise and
adventure. They’re body mapped for free
movement, filled with PrimaLoft® Silver
Hi Loft Ultra synthetic insulation for core
warmth, and they remain toasty and
packable.
WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ
Rab Kinetic Alpine Jacket $499.95
Constructed from recycled Stretch
Knit Proflex fabric with exceptional
breathability of 35,000g MVTR. That is
bolstered with woven reinforcements at
the lower arm for walking; at the cuff for
climbing; and at the shoulder and hip for
backpack straps and harnesses.
WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ
Rab Cirrus Flex Jacket $299.95
With its hybrid construction, comprising
micro-baffles, synthetic insulation and
stretch fleece side panels, it can be used
as a soft, breathable midlayer for cold
winter days or it can be thrown over a
t-shirt for a lightweight warmth boost on
chilly summer evenings at the crag.
WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ
moa Pania Jacket $199.95
Women’s waterproof jacket – durable,
breathable & windproof. A hiking jacket
to keep you drier for longer! Zip off hood,
seam-sealed, extra high chin guard for
weather protection.
WWW.MOUNTAINADVENTURE.CO.NZ
OR WWW.KIWISTUFF.NET.NZ
70//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#227

TECHNICAL GEAR
Edelrid Jayne Harness $139.95
An all-round harness specially tailored to the
female anatomy with adjustable leg loops and an
easy-to-center tie-in point.
WWW.MOUNTAINADVENTURE.CO.NZ
CamelBak Octane 9 Vest $179.99
The best-in-class Crux reservoir holds 2 litres of
water, but if you need to carry more, stash a Quick
Stow flask in one of the specifically sized harness
pockets. Designed just for women, the harness
allows your gear placement to be customized
with the use of upper and lower pockets so you
can carry your water and fuel where it's most
comfortable.
WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ
CamelBak Zephyr Vest 1L $249.99
A dream for ultra-long distance runners
and fast-packers, Zephyr Vest is
engineered with body mapping for optimal
ventilation and designed to perform for
your specific pursuit.
WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ
Pivot Switchblade Carbon From $10,495
Beyond All Mountain.
The sequel to the Switchblade story heralds a
new era of all mountain riding, with more travel,
unrivaled versatility and progressive geometry.
It unleashes dominance over enduro inspired
descents, generates speed, and delivers the
finesse needed for power moves on technical
climbs. With a masterfully designed new
dw-link shock layout, riders can optimize
suspension performance like never before. The
all-new Switchblade cleans the impossible,
threads the needle, and delivers the freedom
to explore. From bike park flow trails to raw
backcountry routes, the Switchblade amplifies
every rider's skills and excels on any trail.
WWW.PIVOTCYCLES.CO.NZ
Macpac Voyager 35L Backpack
$279.99
Sturdy and supportive, the
versatile Voyager is made with
an AirFlo harness inspired by
our larger hiking packs. Its main
compartment can be divided into
two and its straps are shorter to
fit petite frames. The hip belt can
removed if preferred.
WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ
Osprey Tempest Pro 28 $349.99
Whether you're heading out for a
demanding day hike or light and fast
overnighter, reach for the women'sspecific
Tempest Pro 28. A lightweight
pack series designed with optimal stability
for dynamic movement even on the most
technical terrain.
WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ
Pivot Shuttle e-MTB From $19,995
Potential, Realized.
The Shuttle redefined electric assist mountain
biking. Sleek, lightweight, capable, beautifully
crafted, with the motor and battery seamlessly
integrated into its design, the Shuttle ushered in
a whole new way of riding. Now, the redesigned
Shuttle has the juice to take your riding even
further. A sophisticated carbon fiber chassis
houses an equally sophisticated Shimano
EP8 drive unit and a massive 726 Wh battery.
Progressive geometry, highly evolved dw-link
suspension and a brawny Fox 38 fork offer
unmatched suspension performance and
handling. The Shuttle has the power to take you
where you dream of going, and give you the ride
of your life getting there and back.
WWW.PIVOTCYCLES.CO.NZ
Patagonia Pack Out Hike Tights $229.99
New versatile, lightweight-yet-durable tights for
all-around wear. Moisture-wicking with 4-way
stretch and a PFC-free DWR finish, they feature
side drop-in pockets, zippered security pocket,
flat-seamed chafe-free construction, and are Fair
Trade Certified sewn.
WWW.PATAGONIA.CO.NZ
zeena clothing Infinidade Capri $89.90
Designed for comfort and performance
our core range will take you from coffee
to nature, gym to the couch. Proudly
made in New Zealand.
WWW.ZEENYACLOTHING.COM
zeena clothing Ilimitada Running
Legging $134.90
Share your inner brightness on
the inside. Running leggings with
pockets for your phone, card +
keys. Insanely comfortable and
ready to go
WWW.ZEENYACLOTHING.COM
yank snazzy rock star short
sleeve tee $140.00
Merino like you haven't seen
before. 125gsm NuYarn©
Merino with full colour print.
Designed, printed, cut and sewn
in New Zealand
WWW.YANK.NZ
Pivot Trail 429 From $10,795
All-Mountain Attitude, Race Bike Reflexes
The Trail 429 might well be the perfect categorydefying
trail bike. Progressive geometry and
super capable suspension give hard-charging
riders the tools they need to thrive in jumpy and
steep terrain. 120mm of travel has never felt
this plush or this composed. This very same
super-refined dw-link suspension also delivers
whip-crack pedal response and acceleration,
aided and abetted by the strongest, lightest
carbon fibre chassis we’ve ever developed. The
sharp-end of the stick XC capability of this bike
is eye-opening, on par with dedicated flyweight
race bikes. This is a bike that you can shred
with confidence everywhere from 24-hour race
courses to untamed high alpine singletrack.
The Trail 429 is no slouch. But don't just take our
word for it. Geoff Wright from SPOKE magazine
put it to the test and has shared his thoughts in
this Oprah worthy "nothing is off-limits" exposé
into the ins and outs of this versatile All-Mountain
one bike wonder.
WWW.PIVOTCYCLES.CO.NZ
72//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#227 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 73

Rab Alpine 600 Womens Sleeping Bag $699.95
The Alpine Pro range is for those looking to
balance warmth, weight and comfort. Designed
for year-round mountain use, the Women’s
Alpine Pro 600 is versatile offering protection
and warmth in cold conditions. Its mummy taper
shape is roomy and comfortable with an angled
footbox that keeps your feet warm but still allows
for movement.
WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ
Rab Ascent 700 Womens Sleeping Bag $699.95
The Ascent 700 is a versatile mid-weight,
down-filled sleeping bag that provides reliable
protection over three seasons. Its a hard-wearing
high performing sleeping bag you can depend on
for comfort and protection over three seasons.
WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ
equip
yourself!
kiwi camping Tuatara SSC Rooftop Tent $1,999.99
Compact and lightweight, the Tuatara Softshell Compact pops
up and folds away in just 2 minutes. Includes telescopic ladder,
200kg weight rating and a blackout PU fly.
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ
kiwi camping Tuatara HS Rooftop Tent $4,999.00
Hard-wearing and spacious, the Tuatara Hardshell is one of the
lowest profile rooftop tents on the market. Includes heavy-duty
frame, 7cm mat and 316 marine-grade stainless steel.
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ
kiwi camping Tuatara 2.5 x 2.5 Awning $399.00
Offers 6.25m² of covered area for sun or rain protection. 200g polycotton canvas awning,
twist-lock design, adjustable height and mounts directly to existing roof rack.
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ
kiwi camping Tuatara Side Wall for 2.5 x 2.5 Awning $119.00
The Tuatara Side wall attaches to our 2.5 x 2.5 awning with hook and loop
tabs for added privacy and protection. 200g polycotton canvas, 2000m aqua
rating and SPF50 UV coating.
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ
NEUTRON COMPONENTS ULTRALIGHT FIRST AID KIT $35.00
Designed to get you home, this kit is all about
convenience – it includes all of the essentials, and
weighs less than a mars bar!
WWW.NEUTRONCOMPONENTS.COM
Sea to Summit Flame II Sleeping Bag $649.99
Engineered for women to provide extra warmth
where needed, our Flame is what you reach for
when you need a high performance sleeping bag
but don’t want to be weighed down by one.
WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ
Low Prices Everyday
Free NZ Shipping on
orders over $150 for
members
Members Earn Equip+
Loyalty Points
shop online or instore
Gasmate Ducted Camping Heater $549.00
Compact in design, the Gasmate Ducted Camping
Heater allows you to efficiently heat your tent through
the ducted heating system. Features a carry bag for
easy portability.
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ
Kiwi camping Rover Lite 3cm Self-Inflating Mat $99.99
Compact to pack and carry, the Rover Lite self-inflates
in minutes. The tapered design can fit in a sleeping bag,
1830mm long and 550mm wide.
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ
Sea to Summit Ether Light XT Insulated Mat $349.99
Featuring a women’s specific shape that is wider
at the hip and narrower at the shoulder, Exkin
Platinum® and a thicker THERMOLITE® insulative
layer are combined with a loop baffle Air Sprung
Cell construction to create a 10cm thick mat with
an incredibly low weight.
WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ
equipoutdoors.co.nz
62 Killarney Road,
Frankton, Hamilton,
New Zealand
P: 0800 22 67 68
E: sales@equipoutdoors.co.nz
74//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#227

ack country cuisine $9.29 - $13.89
CHICKEN CARBONARA: A freeze dried chicken
and pasta dish, served in a creamy italian style
sauce. Available small serve (90g) or regular (175g)
MUSHROOM BOLOGNAISE (Vegan) Mushrooms
with tomato in a savoury sauce, served with noodles.
Available small serve (90g) or regular (175g)
WWW.BACKCOUNTRYCUISINE.CO.NZ
back country cuisine
CHOCOLATE BROWNIE PUDDING $12.89: Our take
on chocolate self-saucing pudding, with chocolate
brownie, boysenberries and chocolate sauce. Gluten
Free. Available in regular serve (150g)
ICED MOCHA $4.09: Our mocha is made with
chocolate and coffee combined with soft serve to give
you a tasty drink on the run. Gluten Free. 85g.
WWW.BACKCOUNTRYCUISINE.CO.NZ
POUCHES
SOFT - PLASTIC
RECYCLABLE
Deep Creek Brewing- Sentinel $8.99
STYLE: Hazy IPA AVB: 6.5%
This White Tiger Sentinel is inspired by one
of the four guardians of Chinese mythology,
which represents the autumn season. Enjoy the
beautiful passionfruit and a sprinkling of guava
taste!
WWW.DCBREWING.CO.NZ
Deep Creek Brewing- Sentinel $9.99
STYLE: Sour -Ginger and Peach AVB: 4.5%
Fresh New Zealand peaches combined with the
perfect amount of ginger bring to life this playful,
delicious and refreshing latest addition to our sour
family. Tune in with the Ukulele!
WWW.DCBREWING.CO.NZ
NZ’S NO.1 MEALS
FOR HIKING
ADVENTURES
Find out
more
backcountrycuisine.co.nz/pouches
sunsaver classic 16,000 mah solar power bank
$119.00
Built tough for the outdoors and with a massive
battery capacity you can keep all your devices
charged no matter where your adventure takes you.
WWW.SUNSAVER.CO.NZ
Adventure magazine yearly subscription $80.00
Get your favourite magazine delivered directly to
your door. Six issues per year.
WWW.PACIFICMEDIA-SHOP.CO.NZ

FEED YOUR ADDICTION
Like a ‘perfect storm’, we have seen a dramatic growth and
development in online stores over the past 5 years. Now as we are
made to keep our ‘distance’, online, ecommerce takes on a whole
new meaning and value. We are dedicating these pages to our client’s
online stores; some you will be able to buy from, some you will be able
drool over. Buy, compare, research and prepare, these online stores are
a great way to feed your adventure addiction while you are still at home.
Ultra lightweight running shoes, made by runners. No
matter where the trail takes you, Hoka One One will
have you covered.
www.hokaoneone.co.nz
New Zealands largest independent Outdoor and
Paddle store.
www.furtherfaster.co.nz
Never have a dead phone
again! Because now you can
charge straight from the Sun
with SunSaver. Perfect for
that week-long hike, day at
the beach, or back-up for any
emergency. Check us out at:
www.sunsaver.co.nz
www.packraftingqueenstown.com
Specialising in
small group guided
packrafting trips and
courses from our base
in Queenstown New
Zealand.
Bivouac Outdoor stock the latest in quality outdoor
clothing, footwear and equipment from the best
brands across New Zealand & the globe.
www.bivouac.co.nz
Shop for the widest range of Merrell footwear, apparel
& accessories across hiking, trail running, sandals &
casual styles. Free shipping for a limited time.
www.merrell.co.nz
www.adventuresouth.co.nz
Whether you enjoy
cycle trails, road
cycling, mountain
biking or walking,
Adventure South NZ
can help you to explore
New Zealand at
your own pace.
Full-service outfitter selling hiking
and mountaineering gear and
apparel, plus equipment rentals.
Specialising in ski & snowboard
touring equipment new & used;
skis, boards, bindings, skins,
probs, shovels,transceivers &
avalanche packs.
www.smallplanetsports.com
Whether you’re climbing mountains, hiking in the hills
or travelling the globe, Macpac gear is made to last
and engineered to perform — proudly designed and
tested in New Zealand since 1973.
www.macpac.co.nz
Living Simply is an outdoor clothing and equipment
specialty store in Newmarket, Auckland. Your go-to place
for quality footwear, packs, sleeping bags, tents, outdoor
clothing and more.
www.livingsimply.co.nz
Our motto is “Going the
distance” and we pride
ourselves on providing top
quality outdoor and travel
equipment and service
that will go the distance
with you, wherever that
may be.
www.trekntravel.co.nz
Gear up in a wide selection of durable, multifunctional
outdoor clothing & gear. Free Returns. Free Shipping.
www.patagonia.co.nz
Offering the widest variety,
best tasting, and most
nutrient rich hydration,
energy, and recovery
products on the market.
www.guenergy.co.nz
Fast nourishing freeze dried food for adventurers.
www.backcountrycuisine.co.nz
Stocking an extensive range
of global outdoor adventure
brands for your next big
adventure. See them for travel,
tramping, trekking, alpine and
lifestyle clothing and gear.
www.outfittersstore.nz
Specialists in the sale of Outdoor Camping Equipment, RV,
Tramping & Travel Gear. Camping Tents, Adventure Tents,
Packs, Sleeping Bags and more.
www.equipoutdoors.co.nz
Jetboil builds super-dependable
backpacking stoves and camping
systems that pack light,
set up quick, and achieve
rapid boils in minutes.
www.jetboilnz.co.nz
Supplying tents and
camping gear to Kiwis
for over 30 years, Kiwi
Camping are proud to
be recognised as one of
the most trusted outdoor
brands in New Zealand.
www.kiwicamping.co.nz
Reusable, BPA free water bottles containing a unique 3-in-
1 filtration technology providing clean safe drinking water
from any non-salt water source anywhere in the world.
www.watertogo.co.nz
Our very own online store where
you will find hard goods to keep you
equipped for any adventure.
www.pacificmedia-shop.co.nz
Radix provides freeze dried
meals and smoothies made
with all natural ingredients.
These are perfect for
athletes and adventures
who care about their health
and performance. Gluten
free, Plant-based and Keto
www.radixnutrition.com
options are available.
Get 10% off your first order online.
Excellent quality Outdoor
Gear at prices that can't
be beaten. End of lines.
Ex Demos. Samples. Last
season. Bearpaw. Garneau.
Ahnu. Superfeet.
www.adventureoutlet.co.nz
78//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#227

The
RELUCTANT
adventurer
Words by Teva
Images compliments of the rest of the squad
'reluctant'
adjective
unwilling and hesitant; disinclined.
An eighteen-year-old princess, who paints his (yes, his) nails
and dyes his hair bleach blonde, embarking on an adventure trip
with his family, sounds like a plot for a bad 80s movie.
After being homebound by Covid-19 for the last year and a
half, most people would love the idea of an adventure in the
deep South, campervanning from Christchurch to Queenstown,
stopping along the way to soak in the incredible outdoors that
New Zealand has to offer; unfortunately, I am not most people.
My past record indicates I would rather be at home in my warm
bed doing next to nothing for days on end, rather than throwing
myself into -5 degree weather and 6am alarms. I have always
been a ‘reluctant’ adventurer, scared of most of what the world
has to offer and fairly snug in the comfort of my own home; so
when I found out that my family and I were making a trip down to
the South Island, I was not so keen. My reluctance was slightly
diminished by the fact that my best friend (and his family) would
be joining me for the ride.
The 4am wakeup time for the 5am flight was the first punch in
the gut, honestly, we were not off to a great start. After being
dragged out of the shower and into the car we made our way
to the airport. I am also not a massive fan of airports; the lines,
the people, the touchy-feely guys who make sure you do not
have a bomb, the list goes on. But finally, we boarded the
plane, this is where my reluctance began to ease. The flight
into Christchurch was like something out of a movie, with snowcapped
mountains ranging as far as the eye can see as the
stunning sunrise kissed the mountain tops. We often forget how
much beauty is in our backyard; people travel the world to see
places equally extraordinary as what can be found with a $39
flight to Christchurch. We landed and the door opened as an icy
gust of South Island wind slapped me across the face with some
serious attitude, while my fingers almost immediately forgot how
to move. Opening my phone to see the weather was at a bitter
-5 degrees, this was my wake-up call, we were not in Auckland
anymore.
The RV Supercentre, where you pick up the Maui, Britz and
Mighty campervans, is only a short distance from the airport,
thank goodness. The process of being assigned our campers
and getting on the road went smoothly and as the 6 camper
convoy pulled out onto the main road you could hear a collective
sigh from all the other road users at the thought of getting stuck
behind our group.
Kale, Jarrah, Teva and Cian in wonder at the frozen rivers running
alongside the Hooker Valley Track, Aoraki Mt Cook
80//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#227 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 81

"The worst thing about tramping is
what you have to wear; thermals and
boots, layers on layers, gloves you
have to take off for every photo and
the ugliest woolly hats. I can tell you,
no matter how hard you try, you can't
make that shit look good."
Glentanner Campground in Aoraki, Mt Cook, was our first
destination and we broke up the 304km drive by taking
the scenic route past Rakaia Gorge where we stopped to
explore. The powdered hilltops rising into the clouds made
for a picturesque view that our cameras struggled to capture.
My reluctance was slowly fading as I was more distracted
by the beauty around us. Our day ended at Glentanner
Campground, a site surrounded by Aoraki’s picturesque
mountains and lakes. It sounds cliched but it was as if we
bathed in the beauty of Aoraki, while sitting around the fire
playing board games. The day was long and tiring so the
warmth of the fire and being surrounded by my friends and
family was a great reward, at this point I should mention
Fireballs, which can put a warm glow on any ‘reluctancy’. It is
a beverage we picked up in Canada on a previous trip, where
it is super cheap (not so much here). It is a mixture of whiskey
and cinnamon and the perfect finish to a perfect day.
Aoraki, as impressive as its views are alone, is most known
for its walking tracks through Mt Cook and the surrounding
areas. As I said before, I am not much of an adventurer,
I am a terrible swimmer and can hardly ride a bike, so to
wake up at 6am for a tramp was not my idea of a fun time.
In all honesty, from the comfort of my campervan, Aoraki, at
a glance, was looking fine to me. It looked majestic in the
morning sun, and I was toasty warm on my second cup of hot
chocolate. I am more of a looker than a doer, but my family
and friends are not. We (meaning they) decided we were
walking the Hooker Trail, 3+ hours of it.
The worst thing about tramping is what you have to wear;
thermals and boots, layers on layers, gloves you have to take
off for every photo and the ugliest woolly hats. I can tell you,
no matter how hard you try, you cannot make that shit look
good. I added some new nail polish and my favourite rings but
still looked like one of the kids from the Sound of Music.
Our walk began around 10am (getting that many people
ready takes a while) and luckily, we were blessed with some
of the bluest skies and calm days of 2021. As we ventured
out, we were greeted with waterfalls, glaciers, and the
haunting sounds of avalanches from the mountains around
us. The 3 hours turned into 5 as we stopped to take photos,
play in the rivers, climb little hills, and skim rocks across the
frozen lakes. Around every corner there was something new
and interesting to look at; day two and I am just a little less
reluctant, on a scale of one to ten I’m now about a six.
The day came to an end, and we drove back to Tekapo where
we soaked in the hot pools under clear black star filled skies
that Tekapo is renowned for, a great end to a genuinely great
day.
Day three; involved a slightly slower start (possibly the
Fireballs) as we made our way south towards Omarama
Clay Cliffs. As we drove, we passed Tasman Lake where we
stopped and tasted some of the freshly caught salmon and
looked back at the views over the lake towards Aoraki Mt
Cook, for the first time I felt a reluctance to leave.
We drove through wind and fog and freezing landscapes
which seemed like scenes from Narnia with snow covered
trees and thick blinding fog. Thankfully, my best friend was
driving so I got the chance to really take in and soak up the
views. Once we regained vision after getting through the fog,
we made our way towards the Clay Cliffs. The cliffs towered
over us as we walked through what looked like a part of
Bryce Canyon (minus the snakes) in America, which I had
reluctantly been to before. It catches you off guard, especially
for someone who has travelled a lot, how much New Zealand
has so many snippets of other places. If you were to see a
photo of the Clay Cliffs you would think it was somewhere
straight out of Colorado.
Top row: Skimming stones at Rakaia Gorge / The flight to Christchurch / It's always better with a mate, Cian Emery and Teva
showing a little man love, Rakaia Gorge
Middle: The whole squad (minus one) on the first of three swing bridges on the Hooker Valley Track, Aoraki, Mt Cook
Bottom: Rakaia Gorge / Jarrah and Julian / The whole squad at Aoraki, Mt Cook
Our campervan convoy, on the road with the whole crew
82//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#227 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 83

"Keep in mind, as a reluctant
adventurer, and someone who failed
their restricted license test 4 times,
driving an ATV where your life is
in your hands was not on the top of
my to-do list."
The final part of the drive took us over Lindis Pass, the
highest point in the South Island’s main road system, thus
subject to some heavy snow falls and a history of some
serious crashes. Fortunately the previous weeks snow had
cleared and we experienced a clean ride through into Central
Otago. From the carpark at the top of the pass there are two
short trails taking in great viewpoints of the surrounding area.
Our arrival in Wanaka saw the arrival of rain, the first we had
seen on our trip. Cold and wet, actually lots of wet, meant
outdoor activities were on hold so we decided to drive to the
iconic Cardrona pub. With tales of juicy steaks and mulled
wine around a roaring fire the half our trip passed quickly.
What was also passing quickly were the raging rivers on
either side of the road, which I am sure a day before had
been little more than creeks. We were a little concerned about
the rising rivers but and promised ourselves not to stay too
long. However it turned out our trip would be shorter than we
hoped as the Cardrona Hotel was closed due to flooding. So
back to Wanaka it was and found our new favourite hang out,
Amigos Mexican restaurant, where we replaced mulled wine
with the Mojitos and juicy steaks with equally delicious tacos
and crispy chicken.
Our final day was a whole different story; waking up at
5.30am to be in Queenstown by 8am was indeed a mission,
but a worthy one. The constant rainfall of the previous day
had eased and as the sun began to rise, the rain stopped,
and the skies cleared.
We arrived in Queenstown to begin our quad bike tour, with
“Nomad Safaris”. After wrapping up warm and learning the
ropes we began our adventure up the mountains behind
Queenstown. Keep in mind, as a reluctant adventurer, and
someone who failed their restricted license test 4 times,
driving a quad bike on mountainous terrain in the slippery
snow and mud was not on the top of my to-do list.
After venturing up the mountain to the snowy hilltops of
Queenstown, we looked down upon remarkable views. Sitting
at one of the highest points in Queenstown I began to think
about how lucky we are as Kiwis that we have these amazing
places so close and so accessible.
Once back from our tour, we had time to check out the local
wineries before heading back to the airport, now reluctantly.
This time not because I hated the idea of the airport but more
because I did not want our adventure to finish. I do not know
whether that was because I was away with my best friend or if
the adventures and travels we had been on were begging me
to stay, but all I knew was I was not ready to go just yet. This
trip taught me that New Zealand has a lot more to offer if you
look in the right spots and that no matter how reluctant you
might be to go outside your comfort zone, give it a go, you
might be surprised.
thl is the perfect road trip partner, working to make sure you
have an unforgettable holiday by heading off the beaten
track to explore new and unique adventures. With a number
of centrally located branches in Australia and New Zealand,
thl provides you with the means to get off the grid. Their
campervans come fully equipped with everything you need
to travel in comfort and style and provide all the space
you need to bring along everything for an epic adventure.
With a focus on a continual quest for design enhancement
and innovation to ensure you have the best campervan
experience, thl is there to bring you closer to nature with
its range of motorhomes, suited to all kinds of styles and
budgets. For more info go to: www.maui-rentals.com
Top row: Sunrise at Lake Tekapo / The winter wonderland just north of Twizel
Second Row: The squad at Tekapo / Omarama Clay Cliffs / Quad biking with Nomad Safaris
Third Row: The sun came out and the rain stopped to show Wanaka in all her beauty / The squad at the Cardrona Hotel
Bottom: The scenery in the South Island is simply spectacular
84//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#227 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 85

Papua New Guinea
Four reasons to add Papua New Guinea to your bucket list
As the world starts to slowly reopen, and as travellers
start deciding where that first trip back out in this big
beautiful world is, it’s time to consider Papua New
Guinea. One of the most culturally rich countries in
the world, it is home to over 8 million people who
speak more than 800 different languages. It’s hard
to believe that all of this rich culture is right on our
doorstep. Add to that an incredibly untouched natural
paradise, paired with adventures that could even
challenge your wildest dreams.
It’s a place that is so raw and real, that it’s the kind
of country that travellers spend their lifetime trying to
find and hold onto. To give you just a taste of what
you can find in PNG, here are four bucket list items
for the adventurous soul.
1. CATCH AN ILLUSIVE BLACK BASS OR DOGTOOTH TUNA
Papua New Guinea’s untouched rivers and lakes, and isolated
coastal waters, offer some of the best lures in the world. From the
challenge of catching a ‘lure shy’ Papua New Guinea Black Bass
in remote rainforest-lined rivers, to showing off a prized Dogtooth
Tuna or Marlin catch out at sea, Papua New Guinea is a fishing
enthusiast's dream. With the past 18 months being a write-off, the
fishing stocks have had time to fully replenish - 2022 is set to be
the biggest and best year for fishing.
Papua New Guinea is one of the most culturally rich
countries in the world
2. DISCOVER PNG’S COLOURFUL COASTAL CULTURE
Divers and snorkellers have been coming to Milne Bay
and the Tufi Fjords (yes Papua New Guinea has its own
fjords!) for decades, but culture-seekers have only recently
cottoned on to this unique part of the world. Alotau is the
capital of the Milne Bay region, and plays host to the annual
Kenu and Kundu Festival each November - a lively and
colourful cultural display of war canoe racing and ‘singsings’
(traditional dances).
Year-round you can discover harrowing skull caves,
and can also learn to cook (and enjoy) a Mumu feast (a
traditional meal of local produce cooked in the earth). Up
the coast in Oro Province are the Tufi Fjords, home to the
world’s largest butterfly (the Queen Alexandra Bird Wing;
with wingspans of up to 28cm). Visitor participation in
traditional daily life is welcomed by the local villagers, who
will happily show travellers how to build traditional homes
and canoes from sago palms, and how to hunt and gather
for food.
Fishing on Lake Murray
86//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#227
Diving off
Walindi
Plantation
Resort

REACH FOR
THE REMOTE
3. GO ON A SURFING PILGRIMAGE
Another perfect wave
Thanks to Papua New Guinea’s world-renowned Surf
Management Plan, the number of surfers on any one
break is capped, so you’ll never be stuck waiting to catch
the perfect wave - plus locals are still able to surf their
own breaks. Surfing is idolised in Papua New Guinea, as
are visiting pro surfers. You’ll be just as likely to see locals
surfing on hand-carved planks of timber, as you will Taylor
Jensen (who won the 2017 Men’s Kumul PNG World
Longboard Championships), or even have the waves all to
yourself!
Walindi, Kimbe Bay
There’s plenty of islands, waterfalls, caves and volcanoes
to explore. The north coast of Papua New Guinea is our
pick for keen surfers, also a renowned fishing, diving /
snorkelling paradise too. Stretching for over 500km, the
northern coastline of Papua New Guinea’s mainland is
as chilled-out as it comes. Here you’ll find sleepy port
towns and seaside villages (like Vanimo, Wewak and
Madang), that offer the perfect respite for those who’ve just
adventured to the nearby highlands or Sepik River. Spend
the day paddling across aqua-clear waters to nearby
deserted islands, explore local caves and waterfalls, or
tuck into some fresh locally-caught seafood.
4. ADVENTURE ACROSS REMOTE ISLANDS
New Britain and New Ireland islands in the Bismarck
Sea are popular with divers, surfers, history buffs and
adventure seekers alike. These two easy-to-get-to islands
are perfect for first-time visitors to Papua New Guinea. In
West New Britain Province (accessible by flight to Kimbe),
you can hike to the top of the active Gabuna Volcano
crater, relax in a natural spa-like thermal hot river, or visit
the local firefly trees at night and see the rainforest light up.
At the other end of the island in East New Britain Province
(accessible by flight to Rabaul), a world of history awaits;
from hidden Japanese WWII war tunnels and Admiral
Yamamoto’s famed buker, to the ash-covered remains
of old Rabaul town (destroyed by the nearby Mount
Tavurvur volcanic eruption of 1937). And over on New
Ireland (accessible for flight to Kavieng) you can go on a
5-day cycling adventure, travelling down the length of the
260km mostly-flat Bulominski Highway, stopping to rest at
traditional village homestays along the way.
West New Britain's hot thermal river
As the world starts to slowly reopen, and as travellers we
make more conscious decisions about where we want to
travel to next, we pose the following question – how
about travelling to Australia’s closest neighbour?
Remote natural beauty and rich diverse culture abounds
right on your doorstep.
Find your remote at www.papuanewguinea.travel

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Meet Mayumi Green
Avid Adventure Seeker, Lover of Nature and Community Leader
Founder of Vanuatu inbound adventure
tour operator, Wrecks to Rainforest,
Mayumi Green is a trailblazer in
adventure tourism in Vanuatu, and an
avid adventurer in her own right. She
founded Wrecks to Rainforest to create
tailor-made packages for adventurous
travellers seeking unique and exciting
adventure experiences in remote parts of
Vanuatu.
Mayumi’s knowledge of Vanuatu and its
people stems from her travels all over
Vanuatu’s islands, including Tanna, Efate,
Malekula, Pentecost, Ambrym, Mota Lava,
Rah, Vanua Lava, Gaua, Torres islands,
and in Espiritu Santo where she resides.
Aside from helping visitors to have
adventures in wild Vanuatu, Mayumi’s
business has helped many small
businesses and communities in remote
parts of the country to earn income and
get valuable experience hosting adventure
tourists from all over the world.
Mayumi Green first arrived in Vanuatu
in 1988 from Tokyo for what was meant to be a two
day holiday. Her then boyfriend, Kevin, had just arrived
from Australia to set up his Bokissa Island resort dive
business. The pair had met in Brisbane and Mayumi
The editor of Adventure's first
encounter with Mayumi was when
she featured on the cover of
Ocean Action
Image by Andy Belcher
(the groper was called Boris)
had subsequently returned to Japan. In
Port Vila, Mayumi was introduced to the
owners of Bokissa Island Private Resort
and received an on-the-spot job offer. She
was asked to co-manage the resort with
Kevin, and they flew to Espiritu Santo the
next day to find the resort hosting just the
staff and two guests.
Coming from fast-paced Japan, Mayumi
didn’t quite know how she would cope
living on a small island where the pace
of life is glacial by comparison. However,
as years went by, she quickly fell in love
with Vanuatu’s way of life, its cultures,
its nature and the timelessness of the
landscape.
After managing Bokissa Island Private
Resort for just over two years, the pair
decided to run their diving business on
the island full-time as their business grew.
Mayumi and Kevin married and lived on
Bokissa for six years before moving to
mainland Santo in 1994.
In 2005, inspired by explorer Glen Russel’s story about the
Lisepsep, tiny, mischievious and mythical spirit beings who
supposedly live in the jungles of northern Vanuatu, Mayumi
started trekking into the jungle, fascinated.
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 93

Rom dance in Ambrym
"Currently, Mayumi is focused on her Big Heart Island
Vanuatu charity project with an aim to rebuild 40
kindergartens that were destroyed last year by severe
tropical cyclone Harold which tore through southern
Espiritu Santo and nearby islands."
Having worked as an inbound tour operator for divers,
she saw a gap in Vanuatu’s market for adventurous
travellers looking to get off the beaten track, and so she
started her tour business, Wrecks to Rainforest, in 2008,
based out of Luganville, Espiritu Santo Island.
Since then, Mayumi has helped countless guests to
experience the best adventures Vanuatu has on offer,
centred around nature, culture or people. She has
escorted visitors to places few local people have seen, let
alone any overseas visitors.
Places on Wrecks to Rainforest’s adventure itineraries
include the rugged interior of Espiritu Santo, home
to Vanuatu’s tallest mountain, the 1879m-high
Tabwemasana and its surrounding cloud montane
forest; the Dog’s Head Trail and the Man Bush Trail on
Malekula Island, the last home of Vanuatu’s cannibals;
the strenuous trek across the ash plain of Ambrym Island
to its twin active volcanoes, Benbow and Marum; Gaua
island and its active volcano, Mt Garet, surrounded by a
deep crater lake and Siri Waterfall, the highest waterfall
in the Pacific Islands; and the living, breathing customs
and traditions of the people of Tanna Island.
Wrecks to Rainforests specializes in customised
packages and can organize different tours to suit different
tastes, including soft adventure. Wrecks to Rainforests
offeres its South Santo Adventure, which is a full day
tour that starts with a pick up right from your Luganville
accommodation. You will then be taken on a sightseeing
adventure across the Navara River to the Sefnanarae
waterfall. At the Navaka river mouth, you will be treated
to a picnic lunch on Ipayato beach before a cool off at
the Taffuntari waterfall. The price for the full day including
transfers, entrance fees and lunch is Vt50,600 (NZD650)
for a whole 4WD with driver for up to eight people. Other
tours that can be organized around Espiritu Santo include
the Millenium Cave Tour, a half-day tour to the Tuffuntari
Waterfall, Narango view, Tangoa Blacksand Beach and
other sites, and a half-day tour to the Loru Protected Area
in East Santo.
Currently, Mayumi is focused on her Big Heart
Island Vanuatu charity project with an aim to rebuild
40 kindergartens that were destroyed last year by
severe tropical cyclone Harold which tore through
southern Espiritu Santo and nearby islands. Each new
kindergarten building is designed to be cyclone-proof and
will cost two million vatu each (NZ$26,000). Mayumi’s
friends in various countries and here in Vanuatu have
helped to raise Vt700,000 (NZD9,000) so far. To donate,
please visit the Big Heart Island Vanuatu on Facebook
www.facebook.com/bigheartislandvanuatu
vanuatu.travel
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 95

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