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SOUTH AFRICA
– SPIRITS –
While Cape Brandy mirrors Cognac in its production
techniques, however, it is proudly unique. ‘The difference
lies in the base wines,’ says Danie Pretorius, master
distiller at Oude Molen. ‘Cape Brandies are predominantly
Colombard- and Chenin Blanc-based, while the main
varietal in Cognac is Ugni Blanc, which yields a very
neutral wine. Cognac generally gains its complexity from
maturation, which is why they tend to use more new
wood than we do in SA. Cape Brandies tend to be distilled
and matured to preserve and enhance the complex fruit
characteristics present in the base varieties. I believe that
the sweet spot for a Cape Brandy is achieved at the point
where these fresh fruit characteristics are complemented
by maturation-derived aromas and flavours. This is usually
achieved after 8-12 years of maturation.’
The generally warmer and drier SA climate plays a role,
too, resulting in base wines with slightly more alcohol than
in Cognac (10 to 12% versus about 8%). ‘We use fuller,
fruitier base wines in the production of our brandies,’ says
Marlene Bester, distillery manager at Van Ryn’s, which
is Distell’s flagship and another consistent winner of
prestigious international awards. ‘As a result, our brandies
are much more fruity and complex in character, and this
you find on the nose as well as on the palate.’
Lower humidity than in France can cause the alcoholic
strength of the spirit to rise further during barrel maturation
due to higher evaporation. ‘Maturation of the distillate is
sped up, thus giving us a smooth, well-balanced product,’
says De Bod. ‘We get the aged character a bit faster than
producers in France or even Stellenbosch,’ says Andre
Landman, winemaker at Die Mas van Kakamas, located in
the hot, dry Northern Cape.
Van Ryn’s distillery manager Marlene Bester
MAJOR PLAYERS
Just as Cognac is dominated by the likes of Martell,
Hennessy, Rémy Martin and Courvoisier, SA brandy
production is dominated by two companies: Distell (which
produces several brands of blended brandies in addition to
its flagship Van Ryn’s range of 10, 12, 15 and 20 Year Single
Potstill Brandies) and KWV (whose core range consists of
the 3 and 5 Year blended brandies and 10, 12, 15 and XXO
20 Year Potstill Brandies, in addition to Imoya VSOP).
However, Oude Molen has emerged as a third major player,
Distell’s Van Ryn’s distillery is housed in a chateau-like complex in
Vlottenburg, Stellenbosch
AUTUMN 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 107