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BURGUNDY
– VINEYARDS –
Jean-Christophe Perraud
shippers to use wines from several villages. The use of village names
is concurrent with the advent of bottling by the growers themselves.
Perraud bottles almost everything on his farm, but Mâcon-Villages
is more renowned among his trade-only clientele than Mâcon-La
Roche Vineuse. Conversely, he also has vines in Fuissé, which is
better known and he thus produces a Mâcon-Fuissé.
Perraud uses new barrels to mature some of his wines for 12 to
24 months. However, the aim is not to produce heavily oaked
wines, as the format is the 600-litre demi-muid JP3 which provides
less wine-wood contact surface. “Tastes are changing”, he says.
“Gone are the days when there was high demand for very oaky
wines among the English-speaking world”. Neither does he stir his
wines to develop fat. Quite the opposite, in fact. Leaving them to
rest guarantees that their acidity will be preserved. “You have to be
able to smell the wine”, he says with disarming simplicity.
The estate is being converted to organic. In 2021, despite very
challenging conditions, with rain and often cold weather, they
managed to cope and forego the use of chemicals. And that was no
mean feat.
VIGNERONS DES TERRES SECRÈTES:
120 FAMILIES UNITED IN PRISSÉ
Charles Lambolley is the marketing director of this co-operative
whose membership embraces 120 families. The winery is based
in Prissé, in the northern part of the Saint-Véran appellation.
AUTUMN 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 51