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Jeweller - November 2021

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Business Strategy<br />

radical level of integration into the lives of<br />

its customers, offering brands access to the<br />

world’s largest single market of shoppers.<br />

In order to survive, all retailers must create<br />

similarly radical levels of value.<br />

It starts with creating radical value for<br />

customers. Retailers can and must create<br />

radical value in one or more of four areas:<br />

• Cultural value – Outdoor clothing<br />

retailer Patagonia creates radical cultural<br />

value through its single-minded focus on<br />

environmental stewardship, placing this<br />

imperative at the core of everything the<br />

business does including its financial model.<br />

This makes Patagonia as much a social<br />

movement as a retailer; the commitment to<br />

the environment acts as a lightning rod for<br />

like-minded customers and staff.<br />

All organisational objectives,<br />

communications and initiatives ‘ladder’<br />

back up to environmental protection,<br />

making Patagonia a ‘tribal ‘outpost for<br />

customers who share its values.<br />

• Entertainment value – Retailers can also<br />

create customer value with entertainment;<br />

UK department store Selfridges creates<br />

radical entertainment value through an<br />

intense focus on experience.<br />

From streetwear departments with skate<br />

bowls to creative pop-ups and unique food<br />

and beverage installations, the experience<br />

at Selfridges has, to a great extent, become<br />

the product itself.<br />

The years leading up to the pandemic saw<br />

the retailer make huge investments in what<br />

managing director Andrew Keith recently<br />

called “all the magic that goes on in the<br />

store”.<br />

• Expertise value – New York’s Allure Store,<br />

a partnership between Allure magazine<br />

publisher Condé Nast and retail platform<br />

Stour, delivers radical expertise value in<br />

its category – beauty products – through<br />

authority. This authority is established via<br />

the staff.<br />

The Allure beauty store – to which I am an<br />

advisor – does not hire retail workers but<br />

instead beauty influencers.<br />

The result is a dynamic team of influential<br />

beauty experts, all of whom speak with<br />

authority from personal and professional<br />

experience. They do so both in-store and<br />

through social media content shared to the<br />

retailer’s growing legion of followers.<br />

• Product/channel value – Finally, there are<br />

retailers that bring radical levels of product<br />

design, channel control or consolidation to<br />

the table.<br />

Luxottica, for example, is estimated to<br />

control 40–60 percent of the global eyewear<br />

market, making it almost impossible to do<br />

business in the optical category without<br />

doing business with Luxottica.<br />

Retailers that so thoroughly control access<br />

and distribution within a category carry<br />

obvious value to consumers as a go-to<br />

destination.<br />

Other retailers create products that become<br />

so dominant in their categories that they<br />

become a magnet for associated products.<br />

Apple is an obvious example; if you<br />

manufacture iPhone cases or any other<br />

tech accessory, chances are you’d clamour<br />

to obtain space in an Apple store because<br />

Apple contributes radical levels of design to<br />

both its products and its stores.<br />

Value creation for retailers<br />

What’s particularly interesting is that, in<br />

most cases, the same retailers that create<br />

radical value for consumers also tend to<br />

create equally radical levels of value for the<br />

brands they stock.<br />

In becoming a cultural flagbearer for<br />

the environment, Patagonia brings to<br />

its ‘brand partners’ an army of loyal and<br />

highly-engaged customers to whom they<br />

otherwise wouldn’t have such easy access.<br />

Another example is the US retailer Camp,<br />

which sells children’s toys, activity sets,<br />

books, and more.<br />

Camp creates in-store theatre and events<br />

for parents and children, marketing itself as<br />

a ‘family experience company’.<br />

In doing so, the business provides handson<br />

and contextual opportunities for<br />

children to engage with brands’ products;<br />

opportunities that simply can’t be delivered<br />

online or in other more conventional toy<br />

stores.<br />

ADDED<br />

VALUE<br />

Understand<br />

your offer<br />

It is imperative<br />

that retailers<br />

understand their<br />

role in the 'value<br />

equation'<br />

Delight your<br />

customers<br />

Develop<br />

new ways of<br />

attracting and<br />

fascinating<br />

shoppers<br />

Boost your<br />

brands<br />

Strategise how<br />

to make the<br />

most of branded<br />

products and<br />

develop close<br />

relationships<br />

with suppliers<br />

The retail technology start-up B8TA is<br />

another intriguing example. Not only<br />

does the business attract a particularly<br />

passionate segment of the market, but<br />

its model is based on in-store product<br />

demonstrations and presentations.<br />

Manufacturers pay to rent out space for<br />

their product to be displayed inside B8TA’s<br />

retail locations, along with a tablet that each<br />

brand customises with software.<br />

This model offers the manufacturers<br />

access to robust data, providing them with<br />

consumer intelligence and insights they<br />

wouldn’t otherwise access.<br />

Similarly, the Allure Store, mentioned<br />

previously, also acts as a marketing ‘flywheel’<br />

for brands, producing compelling<br />

product content and in-store activations,<br />

all of which would carry significant cost if<br />

brands were to produce it themselves.<br />

The common thread here is that these<br />

retailers are fundamentally changing the<br />

conversation they’re having with brands.<br />

For too long, we’ve assumed the<br />

retailer-brand relationship to be<br />

transactional – purely based on volume,<br />

margin, and incentives.<br />

But brands today are asking for more; they<br />

want market intelligence, they want – at the<br />

very least – ‘co-ownership’ of the customer<br />

relationship where loyalty is shared, they<br />

want their unique ‘brand story’ articulated<br />

and animated with excellence, and they want<br />

their prices treated with integrity.<br />

Retailers that appreciate this shift and<br />

deliver radical value back to brands will<br />

perform better in the long-term than those<br />

retailers who do nothing but extract value<br />

from the relationship.<br />

Because, in the end, retailers that do not<br />

become a source of radical value for brands<br />

will awaken one day to find their sales floors<br />

empty of branded goods.<br />

DOUG STEPHENS is founder and CEO<br />

of Retail Prophet and the author of three<br />

books on the future of retail, including<br />

the recently released ‘Resurrecting<br />

Retail: The Future of Business in a Post-<br />

Pandemic World.’ Visit: retailprophet.com<br />

<strong>November</strong> <strong>2021</strong> | 75

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