23.02.2022 Views

Issue No. 23

Welcome to the summer! In this issue discover Dijon in Burgundy, sensational Strasbourg (and a secret speakeasy), and lovely Cognac. We'll tell you where the locals go on holiday, the secret places. Visit Versailles and the Paris Opera, Le Touquet - the "Monaco" of northern France and wild Provence. Guides, recipes and more - your trip to France without leaving home...

Welcome to the summer! In this issue discover Dijon in Burgundy, sensational Strasbourg (and a secret speakeasy), and lovely Cognac. We'll tell you where the locals go on holiday, the secret places. Visit Versailles and the Paris Opera, Le Touquet - the "Monaco" of northern France and wild Provence. Guides, recipes and more - your trip to France without leaving home...

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Life at Versailles<br />

When Louis XIV made Versailles his home,<br />

he wanted the aristocracy and nobles of<br />

France to join him there. It was a way to<br />

keep them from plotting against the royal<br />

family as much as anything. But it wasn’t a<br />

life of luxury. Rules for how to dress, where<br />

to sit, what to say and where to be at<br />

certain times were rigidly adhered to.<br />

Even with more than a thousand fireplaces,<br />

the castle was bitterly cold in winter. It was<br />

recorded in 1695, that the King’s glass of<br />

wine froze on the table as he sat dining<br />

alone, watched by hundreds of courtiers. I<br />

was amazed that the room where this<br />

dinner ritual took place was quite small,<br />

you can really imagine everyone squashed<br />

in, eyes on the king and his heavily laden<br />

table, stomachs rumbling, hot and bothered<br />

in summer, shivering in winter!<br />

We pretty much know what Louis XIV did<br />

every day of his life as courtiers kept<br />

copious records detailing the minutiae of<br />

life at court right up until the king’s death<br />

from gangrene.<br />

It was rare for courtiers to have their own<br />

kitchens so they would send their staff out<br />

for food. A sort of shanty town grew around<br />

the castle and there were food booths and<br />

tuck shops on site.<br />

The wings of the palace were essentially<br />

apartments. Lots of records have survived<br />

from the days when courtiers lived there,<br />

there are logs of repairs and renovations<br />

and plenty of complaints, a princess<br />

without a bathroom, moaning about the<br />

cold and the fact there was nowhere to<br />

cook.

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