Issue No. 23
Welcome to the summer! In this issue discover Dijon in Burgundy, sensational Strasbourg (and a secret speakeasy), and lovely Cognac. We'll tell you where the locals go on holiday, the secret places. Visit Versailles and the Paris Opera, Le Touquet - the "Monaco" of northern France and wild Provence. Guides, recipes and more - your trip to France without leaving home...
Welcome to the summer! In this issue discover Dijon in Burgundy, sensational Strasbourg (and a secret speakeasy), and lovely Cognac. We'll tell you where the locals go on holiday, the secret places. Visit Versailles and the Paris Opera, Le Touquet - the "Monaco" of northern France and wild Provence. Guides, recipes and more - your trip to France without leaving home...
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Fishing in France... with your feet!<br />
All over France, catching fish for a free meal is a popular activitiy. Mike Cranmer<br />
heads to the department of Finistere in Brittany to join in the fun...<br />
We’d been crouching on the sand for what<br />
seemed like hours. My knees were aching. I<br />
just had to shift position.<br />
“Tranquillement! Essayez de ne pas faire de<br />
bruit” Marie whispered (Quietly! Try not to<br />
make a noise). Our eyes were fixed on a<br />
tiny volcano-like mound of sand. Waiting.<br />
Watching. Waiting. Suddenly a squirt of<br />
water erupted from our target. Still Marie<br />
didn’t move.<br />
Perhaps I ought to explain at this point. I<br />
was doing what 3 million French people do<br />
every year, Pêche à Pieds, which translates,<br />
charmingly, as Walk Fishing, or, more<br />
literally, Foot Fishing. All you need is a pair<br />
of wellies, a bucket, and a hand rake. Oh,<br />
and local tide-tables. Very important that, if<br />
you want to avoid an unexpected dunking.<br />
The best tide for this activity is as low as<br />
possible, exposing fishy treasures normally<br />
underwater. One of the best places to do it<br />
is Brittany where tidal ranges of 10m occur.<br />
Marie has lived within a cockerel’s crow of<br />
Saint-Pol-de-Léon for all of her 82 years,<br />
wed to Yann, both steeped in Breton<br />
tradition, and speakers of that ancient, but<br />
still very much alive, language. More<br />
importantly to this tale, she is a Pêcheuse à<br />
Pied extraordinaire. She knows all the best,<br />
most secret places to seek out her quarry,<br />
and, how to cook it. She was to be my guide.<br />
We headed for our adventure in the<br />
secluded bay of Pointe Saint-Jean: Marie,<br />
Yann, teenage grand-daughter Léa, my wife<br />
and I, plus a carload of buckets and rakes.<br />
The first discovery of the day came when I<br />
put on my newly-acquired wellies to find<br />
they were both right feet causing me to<br />
walk in circles until I mastered the steering.<br />
The second was that the normally quiet bay<br />
was like Wembley on Cup Final Day, cars<br />
parked willy-nilly along the single-track<br />
approach. We were not alone.