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Issue No. 23

Welcome to the summer! In this issue discover Dijon in Burgundy, sensational Strasbourg (and a secret speakeasy), and lovely Cognac. We'll tell you where the locals go on holiday, the secret places. Visit Versailles and the Paris Opera, Le Touquet - the "Monaco" of northern France and wild Provence. Guides, recipes and more - your trip to France without leaving home...

Welcome to the summer! In this issue discover Dijon in Burgundy, sensational Strasbourg (and a secret speakeasy), and lovely Cognac. We'll tell you where the locals go on holiday, the secret places. Visit Versailles and the Paris Opera, Le Touquet - the "Monaco" of northern France and wild Provence. Guides, recipes and more - your trip to France without leaving home...

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Fishing in France... with your feet!<br />

All over France, catching fish for a free meal is a popular activitiy. Mike Cranmer<br />

heads to the department of Finistere in Brittany to join in the fun...<br />

We’d been crouching on the sand for what<br />

seemed like hours. My knees were aching. I<br />

just had to shift position.<br />

“Tranquillement! Essayez de ne pas faire de<br />

bruit” Marie whispered (Quietly! Try not to<br />

make a noise). Our eyes were fixed on a<br />

tiny volcano-like mound of sand. Waiting.<br />

Watching. Waiting. Suddenly a squirt of<br />

water erupted from our target. Still Marie<br />

didn’t move.<br />

Perhaps I ought to explain at this point. I<br />

was doing what 3 million French people do<br />

every year, Pêche à Pieds, which translates,<br />

charmingly, as Walk Fishing, or, more<br />

literally, Foot Fishing. All you need is a pair<br />

of wellies, a bucket, and a hand rake. Oh,<br />

and local tide-tables. Very important that, if<br />

you want to avoid an unexpected dunking.<br />

The best tide for this activity is as low as<br />

possible, exposing fishy treasures normally<br />

underwater. One of the best places to do it<br />

is Brittany where tidal ranges of 10m occur.<br />

Marie has lived within a cockerel’s crow of<br />

Saint-Pol-de-Léon for all of her 82 years,<br />

wed to Yann, both steeped in Breton<br />

tradition, and speakers of that ancient, but<br />

still very much alive, language. More<br />

importantly to this tale, she is a Pêcheuse à<br />

Pied extraordinaire. She knows all the best,<br />

most secret places to seek out her quarry,<br />

and, how to cook it. She was to be my guide.<br />

We headed for our adventure in the<br />

secluded bay of Pointe Saint-Jean: Marie,<br />

Yann, teenage grand-daughter Léa, my wife<br />

and I, plus a carload of buckets and rakes.<br />

The first discovery of the day came when I<br />

put on my newly-acquired wellies to find<br />

they were both right feet causing me to<br />

walk in circles until I mastered the steering.<br />

The second was that the normally quiet bay<br />

was like Wembley on Cup Final Day, cars<br />

parked willy-nilly along the single-track<br />

approach. We were not alone.

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