Issue No. 14

With the castle right at Tournon’s heart
(which dates back to the 10th and 14th
century and is next to the square) the town
is also overlooked by a steep hill and the
old fortifications and church. Vines thread
their way up the slopes like plaits on a
head to give a curious effect. There’s
occasional trompe d’oeil in the back streets
and you can feel the mix of southern
France and Alpine style. The bright orange
and yellow turret of the Caisse d’Epargne
in the old quarter even gives it an eastern
feel.
Hôtel de la Villeon
Tucked away a short distance behind the
very narrow main street, with its back
against the hills is a hidden gem. A large
old wooden door is the only clue to this
grand old 18th century mansion that used
to belong to one of the town’s long ago
successful merchants. Now a 4-star hotel,
it’s held on to all the integrity of its past.
Limestone floors greet you as you enter the
cool of the ground floor and the original
grand staircase takes you into the hotel’s
heart. It’s a listed building with many
original features like the exquisite parquet
flooring but still has a minimalist feel.
The terraced garden which leads off from
the restaurant, has an array of terracotta
pots and a magnificent wisteria, which you
climb up through to access the top terrace.
On a Sunday night the hotel restaurant is
closed so they bring your dinner from the
nearby gourmand restaurant Comako.
There’s a local trend in cuisine in the
Ardèche so I’m told, which means my entire
meal came condensed into 3 small glass
pots (one for each course)! But, whether it’s
hot coffee and some of the hotel’s fabulous
breakfast or a potted picnic, the top terrace
and its views, has to be a pretty fabulous
way to start or end any day.