British Travel Journal | Autumn/Winter 2022

“
It was always my ambition that when I hang up my apron people might
turn around and say, ‘well, that guy really made a difference’.
”
which is situated in an 14th-century building beside the
River Eea in Cartmel and received a Michelin star in 2019.
Rogan also runs Aulis Cartmel, a development kitchen
and chef's table, and operates 16 bespoke bedrooms and
suites around the village. In 2019 Rogan branched out
further, opening Roganic Hong Kong, which received its
first Michelin star within ten months of opening.
In 2021, Simon's efforts towards sustainability were
recognised with the newly introduced Michelin Green Star,
awarded to both L'Enclume and Roganic Hong Kong.
Aulis London, his eight-seat chef’s table in Soho, offers
a dynamic, interactive dining experience with a 13-course
tasting experience cooked in front of the guests. “People
absolutely love it,” Rogan explains. "And it's probably
been the inspiration for a lot of other chef’s tables around
the UK, to be honest. If you're a foodie it's the greatest
table you can get because you're face to face with the guys
that know everything about the dish, its story, its execution
and the reason for its existence.”
Winning the coveted third Michelin star and passing
the 20th anniversary milestone has given the chef–owner
cause for reflection.
“When we set out, I was always clear on the accolades
I wanted to achieve but I also wanted to be someone that
sort of made a difference. During the '80s and the '90s
you had the Roux brothers, then Marco [Pierre White],
John Burton-Race and so on, and if I could achieve half of
what they did I’d be happy.
“It was always my ambition that when I hang up my
apron people might turn around and say, ‘well, that guy
really made a difference’. And I'm very humbled to see a
lot of guys that worked for me go out now and have their
own success – that's what I wanted to do – I wanted to
spawn a whole new generation of people that were going
to go off and do even greater things.
“That drives me as well, to get better and push
forward. Because when I see our guys have their own
success and I see things sprung from the L’Enclume
philosophy it motivates me to stay at the forefront. I kind
of think, ‘Ok, catch me again if you can’.”
And what of the next 20 years? “We carry on! I always
thought, come the third star I'd feel like I had had my
innings, but if anything, I feel invigorated. So, I guess
there’s still life in the old dog yet.”
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