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Fibres / Textiles Textile yarns from biopolyesters KORTEKS (Bursa/Türkiye) is one of the largest suppliers of polyester yarn. In addition, a new plant for processing recycled polymer has been commissioned with a daily capacity of 20 tonnes. Korteks is also active in the development of yarns from various biopolymers. The experimental design of all yarn developments is carried out on a pilot scale melt spinning machine with a 5-zone extruder, spinnerets, quenching line, drawing godets and winder. In 2017 and 2020, respectively, Korteks started to develop filament yarns from PLA, PHA, and PBS. After the first results and observations, industrial trials were carried out for the three biopolymers. PLA PLA has inherent properties such as flame retardancy, UV resistance, low density, and low-emperature dyeability. However, the production of PLA fibre/yarn is challenging due to its hydrolytic degradation and brittle structure. In an initial research programme, PLA Pre Oriented Yarn (POY) was spun and then texturised to give volume, elasticity, and crimp properties like natural fibres. 100, 150, 300 denier PLA filament yarns have been developed on an industrial scale. In addition, dope dyed coloured texturised PLA yarns could be produced. PLA filament yarns have sufficient strength and elongation properties for weaving and knitting processes. As PLA is sensitive to alkaline conditions and high temperatures, PLA yarns and fabrics require some modifications in dyeing. In addition, finishing processes of PLA fabrics show close processes with PET fabrics, but considering the chemical properties of PLA, some modifications should be made with R&D studies. PBS Polybutylene succinate (PBS) is an aliphatic polyester that can be synthesised from both fossil fuels and monomers derived from biobased feedstocks. Biodegradability and excellent melt processability make PBS suitable for sustainable textiles [1]. The fact that its production costs are lower than PHAs and that it is more ductile than PLA puts PBS at the forefront. In addition, PBS has a wide processing temperature range and good thermal stability compared to other biopolymers. Due to the high elongation properties of PBS, the problem of tight winding is often encountered during the process. Furthermore, in order to eliminate the melt flow problems, PBS trials are carried out with different ranges of melt flow rate polymers. PHA The production of biodegradable fibres from P3HB has been investigated by previous researchers on a laboratory or pilot scale. The common problem was the formation of irregular, large crystallites with low density, resulting in inadequate mechanical properties. Various solutions have been proposed to improve the structure development. However, none of these studies were suitable for largescale production. In studies investigating the thermal behaviour of PHB, it was found that the molecular weight starts to decrease just above the melting point around 185°C, and weight loss and chain breaks occur in the polymer above 200°C. Initial experiments conducted above 180°C resulted in degraded, discontinuous melt flow. Extruder temperatures, residence time, and spinneret exit pressure Figure 1. Samples of PHA and PBS filament yarns (from left to right respectively, raw POY, air texturized PHB, and raw POY and texturized PBS) Figure 2. Samples of PLA filament yarns (from left to right respectively, raw white POY, FDY, and dope dyed green POY and DTY bobbins) 28 bioplastics MAGAZINE | Renewable Carbon Plastics [05/23] Vol. 18
By: H. Aybige Akdag Ozkan, R&D Center/Chief of Int.Projects and Fundings Onur Celen, R&D Center deputy manager Cansu Uludogan, R&D Center/ Chief of Project and Test Analysis Korteks Mensucat Bursa/Türkiye Category should be investigated and the quenching line modified to prevent thermal degradation and the formation of heterogeneous large crystallites prior to drawing to provide chain orientation. On the other hand, the biodegradability of PHAs is much more advanced. The reasons for this are the influence of crystallinity, crystal structure, molecular orientation, melting temperature (Tm) and glass transition temperature (Tg), as well as the percentage of degrading microorganisms for each polyester [2]. Despite the fact that PLA and PBS are texturised on an industrial scale, the PHA yarn experiment is still at the melt-spinning stage and only a few air texturisation trials have been carried out. The results showed that the mechanical properties (tensile strength, elongation) of PHB yarns can be improved by high draw rates rather than by increasing the speed. Therefore, the stressstrain relationship should be investigated. Conclusions To conclude, biopolyesters have a tolerable and improvable processability for making textiles. Thermal degradation is an important parameter that needs to be carefully controlled during the process. The development of PLA and PBS products is moving faster than PHB due to their relatively coherent thermal properties with PET. Considering that synthetic fibres have the highest market share with 64 %, of which 54 % is fossil-derived PET, switching to biopolymers from conventional thermoplastics and using them in the textile industry can be an alternative to reduce the processing of fossil fuels. However, materials and designed products should be well assessed for environmental impact. Government regulations and changes in consumer behaviour will also be very important to enable this change. REGISTER NOW! For your registration scan this QR code or go to www.european-bioplastics.org/ events/ebc/registration 12 – 13 Dec 2023 Titanic Hotel, Berlin, Germany www.korteks.com.tr References [1] Rudnik, E. (2013). Plastic films in food packaging (pp. 217-248). William Andrew Publishing. [2] Tokiwa, Y., & Calabia, B. P. (2007) Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 15, 259-267. bioplastics MAGAZINE | Renewable Carbon Plastics [05/23] Vol. 18 29
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