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The Paris of the Pacific<br />
New Caledonia’s bustling capital, Nouméa, proudly flaunts<br />
its oh là là influence as a French overseas territory, where<br />
European chic mingles with laid-back Melanesian charm.<br />
WORDS MIKE YARDLEY | PHOTOS NEW CALEDONIA TOURISM<br />
If you want a tropical island getaway with a little<br />
Parisian panache and the best baguettes in the South<br />
Pacific, you’ve come to the right place. Nouméa is an<br />
instantly appealing city with its irrepressible botanical<br />
beauty. You won’t just be fanned by coconut palms, but<br />
banyans, breadfruit trees, and the ever-present column<br />
pines – so iconic of New Caledonia.<br />
I began my city exploratory in the heart of town,<br />
under lush palms and the radiant grace of those<br />
flamboyant trees that flank Place des Cocotiers (Coconut<br />
Square). Meticulously maintained, locals chatted and<br />
munched on lunch under the verdant canopy, while some<br />
played at the pétanque pitch or cooled themselves from<br />
the statuesque Celeste fountain.<br />
At the southern end of the square, two Kanak girls<br />
played at the foot of the Peacemakers Statue. Installed<br />
just two years ago, the statue represents the famous<br />
handshake between the anti-independence leader Jacques<br />
Lafleur and the independence leader, Jean-Marie Tjibaou,<br />
settling the troubles of the 1980s.<br />
From its hillside perch, grand old St Joseph’s<br />
Cathedral, built by convicts in 1888, casts a sentinel-like<br />
gaze over downtown Nouméa, seemingly visible all over<br />
town. There’s a generous sprinkling of colonial heritage<br />
and character villas peppering Nouméa. An evocative<br />
neighbourhood to stroll through is the Latin Quarter,<br />
where storied architecture abounds and the hilltop<br />
views are epic.
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