03 Magazine: April 05, 2024

Travel | Magazine 57
“What really stands out about these glossy beachside
neighbourhoods is they’re so integrated with the
local community, not just tourist confections.”
The buzzing Port Moselle Markets are well worth a
morning visit for the chance to mingle with the purveyors
of the fresh produce on display, from the ocean and the
land. The earlier you get here, the busier it will be as locals
hustle for the catch of the day. Mangrove crab, coconut
crab, lobster and blue prawns are always hot sellers.
The craft stalls are equally enticing, with an enterprising
array of Kanak handicrafts and souvenirs for sale – many
of which are produced in nearby villages. The stylised
and glazed coconut shells, artfully crafted into serving
dishes, are particularly good. Then there’s the profusion
of artisan goods, whether you’re eager to try some local
liqueurs or New Caledonian-grown vanilla beans.
Pull up a stool at the unpretentious central cafe, La
Buvette du Marché, whistle up a croque madame and
café au lait, and soak up the Franco-Pacific vibes. I was
intrigued to discover how incredibly cosmopolitan
Nouméa is, with strong populations of Middle Eastern,
African and Caribbean French nationals all adding to
her melting pot.
There’s no denying a deliciously persuasive reward
for visiting Nouméa is the fact that it boasts some
of the best boulangeries, fromageries, patisseries and
chocolatiers this side of the Arc de Triomphe. Péché
Mignon on Rue Jules Garnier is the fan-favourite
for art-gallery-worthy cakes and pastries, while for
handmade soft and hard centres, the locals swear by
Chocolats Morand in the Latin Quarter. The flavour
range is astounding.
I also took quite a liking to the irresistible range of
macarons at Passion Macaron at the Promenade Complex
in Anse Vata Bay. The macaron masters of Ladurée would
be suitably impressed. Truth be told, they became my
recidivist guilty pleasure while staying at Anse Vata.
Nouméa is blessed with two glittery beach strips,
Anse Vata and Baie des Citrons. They’re like slices of
the French Riviera in miniature, with sweeping crescentshaped
promenades, white-blonde sands and velvety
lawn frontages. Unlike a lot of South Pacific destinations,
what really stands out about these glossy beachside
neighbourhoods is they’re so integrated with the local
community, not just tourist confections.
Fancy a wine and cheese tasting? I highly recommend
popping in to Chai de l’Hippodrome, next door to
my hotel in Anse Vata. Romain Brousseau opened this
convivial wine bar several years ago and as I watched the
friendly locals drift in and out, this place pulses with an
unmistakable feel-good neighbourhood vibe.