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8. Organic Food<br />

Fortnum & Mason has never overtly promoted our involvement with organic food. However, we carry many organic<br />

products in our departments, most notably our fresh food areas where we stock many organic raw protein products,<br />

charcuterie products and cheeses.<br />

We generally work with small scale producers where time and tradition are respected and even where products are not<br />

certified as organic, the production ethos is in line with organic production.<br />

We do, however, recognise that we have a number of gaps in our assortment for organic options and we are excited about<br />

the work we are doing with an organic food brand to introduce a new range of organic products to sit alongside our own<br />

label assortment.<br />

9. GMOs<br />

We have been GM free since 2002 and do not stock products which contain hydrogenated fats. The palm oil which we<br />

use is sustainably sourced. We are scrupulous in our insistence that as far as possible our goods are free of chemicals and<br />

we are working toward being NAFNAC in our confectionery department.<br />

Case study – product<br />

Fortnum & Mason Honey<br />

A plan to put beehives on top of a building in the<br />

middle of Piccadilly might seem like a flight of fancy.<br />

But ever since a colony of bees took up residence on<br />

Fortnum & Mason’s rooftop, they have been happily<br />

producing a truly delicious honey – so good that these<br />

rather exclusive bees have created a waiting list for<br />

their produce.<br />

Fortnum’s Sweet Grocery Buyer Jonathan Miller<br />

designed the extravagant beehives himself, giving each<br />

a distinct architectural style – Roman, Mughal, Chinese<br />

and Gothic – as well as a coat of eau de nil paint and<br />

some rather elegant gold details. ‘I knew that if we were<br />

going to produce our own honey, the hives just had<br />

to be something special,’ explains Jonathan. ‘I wanted<br />

something distinct and fun but utterly in keeping with<br />

Fortnum’s. I decided to use different styles, but all<br />

classical ones, the sort that a good Georgian architect<br />

would have understood. One result is that the bees<br />

have got plenty of space. By bee standards, these are<br />

palatial residences.’<br />

It had long been Jonathan’s goal to have bees producing<br />

honey on the spot, as it were, rather than brought in<br />

from the countryside, and the plan finally took shape<br />

in the summer of 2008 when the bees produced their<br />

first crop.<br />

The honey, called simply Fortnum’s Bees, was a<br />

lovely pale, toffee colour with a soft consistency, a<br />

light and delicate flavour and a pleasing finish. That<br />

first crop tasted of the Oxfordshire countryside,<br />

where the bees had been staying before they were<br />

transported to London. The second crop, the result<br />

16<br />

of their forays into London’s parks and gardens, had<br />

subtle traces of chestnut and lime, giving it depth and<br />

freshness. The bees have a radius of around three miles,<br />

which encompasses St James’s Park, Green Park and<br />

Buckingham Palace, as well as any number of private<br />

gardens. Gardens in London are often planted with a<br />

dazzling array of exotic flowers, which means that the<br />

honey’s flavour is quite unpredictable, and changes with<br />

every crop.<br />

The bees should produce two crops a year, but are<br />

very sensitive to the weather; in 2009 a spell of wet<br />

weather discouraged their efforts and a second batch<br />

never appeared. So Jonathan is eagerly awaiting this<br />

year’s late crop, as it will have an entirely different<br />

flavour, infused with late summer blooms rather than<br />

the tree blossoms of spring.<br />

Not every honey lover can get on to Fortnum’s<br />

rooftops to see the hives for themselves, so on their<br />

behalf, Jonathan installed a beecam, which has attracted<br />

a considerable following. One camera is positioned<br />

to track the bees as they fly in and out of their hives;<br />

the other captures the view from the hive across the<br />

City to the iconic Gherkin, whose shape is remarkably<br />

similar to the finials decorating the hive roof. This<br />

particular view rather nicely contrasts the simplicity of<br />

a hive full of bees, doing what they have always done,<br />

with the steel and glass of a brand new building – a<br />

human hive, if you like. Jonathan admits that it is rather<br />

pleasant to go up on to the roof and see the bees at<br />

work – it gives one a sense of equilibrium, amongst the<br />

disorder and noise of the city.

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