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How the Sazerac Came to be the Only Offi cial Cocktail of a City { } Th e Sazerac cocktail is essentially an Old Fashioned but with an absinthe rinse of the glass and the nonappearance of ice. New Orleans is the only city with an offi cial drink, and that drink is the Sazerac. With changing liquor, from Cognac to Rye Whiskey or Bourbon, the cocktail has become a loaded representation of the culturally shifting New Orleans. As a simple drink, there is not much to argue regarding the Sazerac, but the history is what sets it apart from other cocktails. 62 WHISKY EDITION November 2011
Antoine Amedee Paychaud was the son of French plantation owners who fled what is now Haiti. He grew up to be an apothecary in New Orleans with a storefront on Royal Street. He opened his store in 1834 and quickly realized that a dose of liquor might make his tonics easier to ingest. History says that Peychaud added small amounts of his own recipe for bitters and served his tonic-bitters mixture in eggcups called “coquetiers” filled with cognac or other French brandy. The word “coquetiers” was anglicized to bring “cocktail” into modern vocabulary. The eggcups were also thought to mark the introduction of a shot or the precursor to a jigger, now used for alcohol measurements in most drinks. The Sazerac Company of New Orleans says that by 1850, the Sazerac cocktail, made with Sazerac French brandy and Peychaud’s Bitters was already popular and quickly becoming the first “branded” cocktail. In 1873, the recipe for the Sazerac cocktail was altered to replace the French brandy with American Rye whiskey, and a dash of absinthe was added. The first printed recipe for the Sazerac Cocktail was in the 1908 edition of (former California Assemblyman) William Boothby’s The World’s Drinks and How to Mix Them. Shortly after the printed recipe, in 1912, absinthe was banned in the United States. Sazerac lovers were not lost for long. Herbsaint was created to fill the void. ‘Herb Sainte” is the New Orleanian term for wormwood, which was the ingredient in absinthe that gave it the mystique and negative reputation. Wormwood was also the ingredient absent in herbsaint that made the substitution legal. Even today, with the legalization of absinthe, many bartenders continue to use herbsaint in the production of Sazeracs. Sazeracs are important to New Orleans because they represent the city in many ways. Bitters are an acquired taste that make the drink feel exclusive, absinthe culture in New Orleans has a windy and proud history which gives the drink some of that absinthe mystery, and the evolving liquor base (brandy to whiskey to occasionally bourbon) is a reflection of changing cultures and history in New Orleans. Sara Rohen, in Gumbo Tales described her feeling of loss and disconnect during Hurricane Katrina. Stranded in New York, she looked for Red Beans and Rice on Mondays and did not find it, she sought out Sazeracs to connect her to home, but found that the time and place factor left her still feeling lost. A perfect Sazerac is such a part of New Orleans that you have to be there to truly appreciate and taste it. Finally, the question of which came first, the Sazerac or the Old Fashioned is up for dispute. Many sources begin their Sazerac descriptions heralding it as the first cocktail. But if Pechaud created the cocktail in the 1830’s, and the oldest printed mention of a “cocktail” with a recipe was in 1806 (for an Old Fashioned in The Balance and Columbia Repository in Hudson, New York), then the Old Fashioned must have come first. On the other hand, how could anything be listed as a “cocktail” before the alleged invention of the word adapted from Pechaud’s eggcup or “coquetier?” The evidence leans toward the Old Fashioned as the basic recipe the Sazerac is a mimic with added ingredients. No matter which came first or what brandy was used, Sazeracs are part of the New Orleans story. There are companies that specialize in bitters for Sazeracs, an entire Sazerac brand that sells all liquors including vodka and gin, and at least one Sazerac bar in New Orleans. Regardless of whether a person is a New Orleans resident or an admirer, the cocktail helps them connect to the layered history and mystique of the great city. November 2011 WHISKY EDITION 63
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Very few make it to blue - Makro

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