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82 Michigan<br />
<strong>airberlin</strong> <strong>magazin</strong> 3 / <strong>2015</strong><br />
climbing back up though the soft sand is a challenge<br />
even for hardy types. Our ranger tells us that a number of<br />
people have collapsed with exhaustion when attempting<br />
this feat and have had to be carted off by ambulance.<br />
Climbing the steps of the steep boardwalks that lead<br />
through the sandy paradise between the distinctive<br />
vantage points and the water is strenuous enough, as far<br />
as we’re concerned. Visitors without much time or energy<br />
to spare can gain an impression of the national park on<br />
the seven-mile Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive, with its<br />
wonderful views of the romantic shoreline.<br />
We aren’t in any hurry, though – and thus end up<br />
trudging through the sand after all as we embark on the<br />
Dune Climb. The dunes here aren’t as high and steep as<br />
on the shoreline, and John assures us that “nobody has<br />
failed to conquer them yet.” Despite this, it’s certainly<br />
pretty hard going.<br />
The Dune Climb is at Glen Lake, which is separated from<br />
Lake Michigan by a sand bar and surrounded by forests.<br />
The National Lakeshore is much more than just dunes and<br />
beach, however: it is also a 288-square-metre recreational<br />
area featuring lightly wooded areas and romantic villages<br />
such as Glen Haven, a restored former logging village with<br />
ancient farms, an historic blacksmith shop and old boats.<br />
On South Manitou Island there’s an ancient lighthouse that<br />
is also well worth a visit. The Sleeping Bear Heritage Trail<br />
connects Empire with Glen Arbor, passing a wealth of local<br />
flora and fauna en route. The area is home to white-tailed<br />
deer, foxes, raccoons and numerous species of bird, while<br />
on the shoreline the roots of the dune grass grow down<br />
into the water. Crystal River and Platte River are perfect<br />
locations for leisurely kayak trips. This is a recreational<br />
paradise, even outside the high season.<br />
In nearby Traverse City our route takes us along<br />
the crescent-shaped bay of Lake Michigan, where<br />
comfortable hotels and motels rub shoulders with<br />
attractive beachside restaurants and marinas. It’s a sunny<br />
day, and the lake is filled with the brightly coloured sails<br />
of bobbing yachts, above which the rigging of an ancient<br />
Pittoreske Fischerdörfer säumen<br />
das Ufer des Lake Michigan.<br />
Picturesque fishing villages dot<br />
the banks of Lake Michigan.<br />
sailing ship towers, its skull and crossbones fluttering<br />
in the breeze. We breathe in the heady air on the beach<br />
and enjoy the relaxed atmosphere that is somewhat<br />
reminiscent of New England. Time seems to pass more<br />
slowly in Traverse City than elsewhere: there’s no great<br />
hustle and bustle, just plenty of small-town charm in a<br />
romantic location.<br />
Outside the centre of town, hidden bays provide<br />
delightful settings for fishing or relaxation, while solitary<br />
log cabins and sparse forests stand high above the rugged<br />
shoreline of Lake Michigan. The villas of the first affluent<br />
settlers and tradesmen can be admired on Sixth Street,<br />
and numerous buildings in the Old Town hark back to<br />
the prosperous 19th century period. Built in 1891, the<br />
splendid City Opera House has been restored to its<br />
former glory in an extensive renovation project, and now<br />
stands just as proudly as in the golden age of the early<br />
20th century, when it was the first commercial building<br />
in town to use electric light.<br />
Michigan has a further surprise in store on nearby<br />
Old Mission Peninsula. A narrow country road passes<br />
numerous farms and plantations, quite atypical for this<br />
state which is known mainly for its wooded areas and<br />
harbour towns. Roadside stalls sell fresh apples, pears<br />
and cherries which gleam so enticingly in the sunshine<br />
that it’s hard to resist stopping off to buy a small basket<br />
of their produce. The apples and pears are juicy and the<br />
cherries deliciously sweet; what’s more, we have a bottle<br />
of wine on the back seat for this<br />
evening, purchased from one of the<br />
peninsula’s wine-growing estates.<br />
The drive ends at Old<br />
Mission, the former mission of<br />
Reverend Dougherty, where an<br />
ancient lighthouse stands at the<br />
northernmost point of the road. Its<br />
Aktive Erholung: Beim Paddeln ergeben<br />
sich ganz neue Perspektiven auf die<br />
herrliche Landschaft.<br />
Active recreation: the delightful scenery<br />
can be admired from an entirely new<br />
angle on the water.<br />
Weitere Photos: mauritius images/Alamy, Getty Images/Rudy Malmquist/Panoramic Images