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82 Michigan<br />

<strong>airberlin</strong> <strong>magazin</strong> 3 / <strong>2015</strong><br />

climbing back up though the soft sand is a challenge<br />

even for hardy types. Our ranger tells us that a number of<br />

people have collapsed with exhaustion when attempting<br />

this feat and have had to be carted off by ambulance.<br />

Climbing the steps of the steep boardwalks that lead<br />

through the sandy paradise between the distinctive<br />

vantage points and the water is strenuous enough, as far<br />

as we’re concerned. Visitors without much time or energy<br />

to spare can gain an impression of the national park on<br />

the seven-mile Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive, with its<br />

wonderful views of the romantic shoreline.<br />

We aren’t in any hurry, though – and thus end up<br />

trudging through the sand after all as we embark on the<br />

Dune Climb. The dunes here aren’t as high and steep as<br />

on the shoreline, and John assures us that “nobody has<br />

failed to conquer them yet.” Despite this, it’s certainly<br />

pretty hard going.<br />

The Dune Climb is at Glen Lake, which is separated from<br />

Lake Michigan by a sand bar and surrounded by forests.<br />

The National Lakeshore is much more than just dunes and<br />

beach, however: it is also a 288-square-metre recreational<br />

area featuring lightly wooded areas and romantic villages<br />

such as Glen Haven, a restored former logging village with<br />

ancient farms, an historic blacksmith shop and old boats.<br />

On South Manitou Island there’s an ancient lighthouse that<br />

is also well worth a visit. The Sleeping Bear Heritage Trail<br />

connects Empire with Glen Arbor, passing a wealth of local<br />

flora and fauna en route. The area is home to white-tailed<br />

deer, foxes, raccoons and numerous species of bird, while<br />

on the shoreline the roots of the dune grass grow down<br />

into the water. Crystal River and Platte River are perfect<br />

locations for leisurely kayak trips. This is a recreational<br />

paradise, even outside the high season.<br />

In nearby Traverse City our route takes us along<br />

the crescent-shaped bay of Lake Michigan, where<br />

comfortable hotels and motels rub shoulders with<br />

attractive beachside restaurants and marinas. It’s a sunny<br />

day, and the lake is filled with the brightly coloured sails<br />

of bobbing yachts, above which the rigging of an ancient<br />

Pittoreske Fischerdörfer säumen<br />

das Ufer des Lake Michigan.<br />

Picturesque fishing villages dot<br />

the banks of Lake Michigan.<br />

sailing ship towers, its skull and crossbones fluttering<br />

in the breeze. We breathe in the heady air on the beach<br />

and enjoy the relaxed atmosphere that is somewhat<br />

reminiscent of New England. Time seems to pass more<br />

slowly in Traverse City than elsewhere: there’s no great<br />

hustle and bustle, just plenty of small-town charm in a<br />

romantic location.<br />

Outside the centre of town, hidden bays provide<br />

delightful settings for fishing or relaxation, while solitary<br />

log cabins and sparse forests stand high above the rugged<br />

shoreline of Lake Michigan. The villas of the first affluent<br />

settlers and tradesmen can be admired on Sixth Street,<br />

and numerous buildings in the Old Town hark back to<br />

the prosperous 19th century period. Built in 1891, the<br />

splendid City Opera House has been restored to its<br />

former glory in an extensive renovation project, and now<br />

stands just as proudly as in the golden age of the early<br />

20th century, when it was the first commercial building<br />

in town to use electric light.<br />

Michigan has a further surprise in store on nearby<br />

Old Mission Peninsula. A narrow country road passes<br />

numerous farms and plantations, quite atypical for this<br />

state which is known mainly for its wooded areas and<br />

harbour towns. Roadside stalls sell fresh apples, pears<br />

and cherries which gleam so enticingly in the sunshine<br />

that it’s hard to resist stopping off to buy a small basket<br />

of their produce. The apples and pears are juicy and the<br />

cherries deliciously sweet; what’s more, we have a bottle<br />

of wine on the back seat for this<br />

evening, purchased from one of the<br />

peninsula’s wine-growing estates.<br />

The drive ends at Old<br />

Mission, the former mission of<br />

Reverend Dougherty, where an<br />

ancient lighthouse stands at the<br />

northernmost point of the road. Its<br />

Aktive Erholung: Beim Paddeln ergeben<br />

sich ganz neue Perspektiven auf die<br />

herrliche Landschaft.<br />

Active recreation: the delightful scenery<br />

can be admired from an entirely new<br />

angle on the water.<br />

Weitere Photos: mauritius images/Alamy, Getty Images/Rudy Malmquist/Panoramic Images

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