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Istanbul Diaries:<br />

Part I teXt & PHotos BY: ALISTAIR SPEIRS<br />

“Madam, madam, come inside” cried the handsome smartly dressed<br />

shopkeeper in the Grand Bazaar, “Come inside, and let me sell you<br />

something you really don’t need”. And with these words the true<br />

enjoyment of our Istanbul adventure were sealed, says Alistair Speirs<br />

after four days in Turkey’s vibrant mega-city.<br />

“Let’s go to Istanbul! I said to my dear<br />

wife”. “Sure” she replied, not thinking<br />

I was serious, “Let’s go this weekend”.<br />

So we did. And with the combined<br />

assistance of Turkish Airlines and Renk<br />

United Travel we had four extraordinary<br />

days of constant fun and stimulation in<br />

one of the best cities in the world for<br />

tourism.<br />

Here are a few of the places we<br />

visited, on just the first two days. More<br />

to come in Part II!<br />

Hagia Sophia<br />

Everyone has heard of the massive<br />

Church-which-became-a-mosquewhich-became-a-museum<br />

but few are<br />

prepared for its astonishing age, its<br />

amazing size, its awesome decoration, its<br />

aura of mystery, its fascinating history<br />

and the thrill of entering for the first<br />

time. I certaintly wasn’t, but I came away<br />

impressed.<br />

The entrance is well organised, as<br />

are most attractions in Istanbul, with<br />

efficient ticketing and good security. The<br />

grounds are well kept and clean. But it’s<br />

inside this enormous structure that the<br />

excitement begins.<br />

I wasn’t anticipating the size of the<br />

main room, with its multitude of half<br />

domes and roof structures. I was amazed<br />

at the lights hanging low on forty metre<br />

cables. I was impressed by the mozaics<br />

which are still nearly intact after 1500<br />

years of history.<br />

First built by Constantine in 360 AD<br />

it was burnt down in 404 and rebuilt by<br />

Theodosius II starting in 405 but was<br />

destroyed again in 532 AD.<br />

The third construction was started<br />

immediately by Justinian and took<br />

10,000 people to build the incredible<br />

structure that still stands today. It was<br />

finished about 550, and was the centre<br />

of Orthodox Christianity for 900 years<br />

till 1453 when it fell into the ottoman<br />

empire’s hands and became the grand<br />

mosque; and remained an important<br />

centre of Islamic worship for 400 years.<br />

It officially became a UNESCO<br />

World Heritage site in 1985.<br />

Topakapi Palace<br />

Close by Hagia Sophia lies the<br />

sprawling complex called Topakapi.<br />

Overlooking the Bosphorus, this was<br />

the focal point of the Ottoman Empire<br />

for 4 centuries. This is where the Sultans<br />

and their many courtiers lived, worked,<br />

played and often died without leaving<br />

the grounds.<br />

There is an extensive series of rooms<br />

containing a mind-boggling array of<br />

jewelry, clothing, furniture and valuables<br />

collected by the Sultans, with the most<br />

amazing being original religious artifacts<br />

including the cloak of the Prophet<br />

Mohammed, his sword, his teeth and his<br />

beard! Sadly no photography is allowed<br />

in these rooms.<br />

120 | MAY 2011 www.nowjakarta.co.id www.nowjakarta.co.id MAY 2011 | 121

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