STANDARD - Survey Instrument Antique Center!
STANDARD - Survey Instrument Antique Center!
STANDARD - Survey Instrument Antique Center!
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16<br />
owing to the difference existing in the expansion and contraction of glass and brass<br />
at diiferent temperatures, a spirit level so mounted may sometimes become loose, involving<br />
inaccuracy and unreliability of adjustment. Upon finding that the adjustment<br />
of a spirit level in an even temperature is not as stable as desirable, the level<br />
fastenings, tube, screws, etc. should be examined, to see if any of them are loose. If<br />
the trouble is in the screws, tighten them up; but if the spirit level can be shifted in<br />
its tube by a touch of the finger, take it apart ; soften the plaster of paris in water,<br />
and remove it with a sharp pointed stick of wood. Cautiously move the spirit level<br />
with your finger, at first only a trifle to and fro, increasing the length of stroke little<br />
by little, until it can be safely taken out without breaking; clean thoroughly. Cut<br />
pieces of white paper, of the width of the radius of the tube, and somewhat shorter<br />
than the length of the spirit level, but longer than the opening in the brass tube, and<br />
insert these of sufficient quantity at the bottom of the brass tube, to fill up the space<br />
intervening between the glass and the brass tube. The uppermost layer of paper<br />
should, however, be so wide, as to envelope the spirit level up to the opening in the<br />
brass tube. Now insert the spirit level, taking care not to touch the glass ends that<br />
are sealed up, and place the division or other marks, indicating wh ire the level has<br />
been ground to a true curvature, uppermost in the brass tube. The level must be<br />
pushed in with sufficient friction to prevent slipping in the tube, yet not so tight as<br />
to cause a crack at a subsequent low temperature, as brass will contract more than<br />
glass. No part of the spirit level should touch any part of the metal tube. Now<br />
prepare some plaster of paris with water, of the consistency of paste, and pour in at<br />
each end enough to fill up the space between the end-pieces and the glass, stirring<br />
it sufficiently to make a perfect contact by it and the glass and the brass, but leaving<br />
the spirit level ends exposed. Now put the level together, and adjust as described<br />
elsewhere.<br />
There are other causes, such as centers and flanges that have been bent by falls,<br />
etc., or that have been worn out unequal expansion or contraction in different tem-<br />
peratures of the metals employed in the construction of an instrument, or a nonsymmetrical<br />
lenghtening or shortening of the air-bubble at different temperatures all<br />
of which, singly or combined, tend to impair the adjustment of spirit levels on<br />
<strong>Instrument</strong>s. Of these we will not speak here, as it requires a most thorough mechanician<br />
and instrument-maker to trace the cause to its proper source.<br />
Being assured that the level is mounted as explained above, our advice is, not to<br />
meddle too frequently with the adjustment of a spirit level. Though it may appear<br />
to be out one day. it may be in perfect adjustment other days. It is the function of<br />
a spirit level to indicate the changes taking place in an instrument, so that the<br />
engineer may make proper allowance and apply his corrections, as the character of<br />
his work may require. The finer an instrument, the more sensitive the spirit levels<br />
must be, in order to admit of corrections to arrive at closer results. As a rule, a<br />
spirit level that does not indicate changes taking place in an instrument, is too insensitive<br />
for the character of the instrument, and in many cases entirely unfit fof<br />
reasonably good work.<br />
Replacing Broken Cross-Wires.<br />
The cross-lines in our telescopes are bonajtde spider webs (except where plati<br />
num wires have been specially ordered). In case they should be broken, they may<br />
be restored in the following manner : clean the reticule frame of all foreign matter ;<br />
put it on a sheet of white paper with the cuts on its surface uppermost. Prepare a<br />
little shellac by dissolving it in the best alcohol and waiting until it is of the consistency<br />
of oil. From the spider's cocoon, (those from a small black wood-spider<br />
preferred), which the engineer has prudently secured at some previous time, select<br />
two or three webs, each about two inches long and of the same appearance. Attach<br />
each end of these webs to a bit of paper or wood to act as weights, and immerse<br />
them in water for five or ten minutes. Remove one web from the water, and very<br />
gently pass it between the fore-finger and thumb nails, holding it vertically to remove<br />
any particles of moisture or dirt. Stretch the web carefully over two of the<br />
opposite cuts in the reticule frame. Fasten one end by a drop of the shellac, let<br />
fall gently from a bit of pointed wood or the blade of a penknife. Wait a moment<br />
lor this drop of shellac to harden. See that the web is stretched tight across the