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22<br />

These days, the cities of San<br />

Fernando and <strong>Angel</strong>es are the citadels<br />

of economic progress in the province<br />

of Pampanga and even in the whole<br />

region. Being next-door neighbors,<br />

they resemble twin towers jutting out<br />

of a vast plain in the heartland of<br />

Luzon Island. Their proximity to each<br />

other, however, belies the differences:<br />

San Fernando as the provincial<br />

and regional capital is the political<br />

hub sitting right at the busy crossroads<br />

between the Central Luzon<br />

provinces, while <strong>Angel</strong>es, nestled quietly<br />

out of the way, is more conducive<br />

to education and business. Not<br />

too many people still remember the<br />

filial bond that once existed between<br />

the two cities.<br />

Two-and-a-half centuries ago, in<br />

1754, a new town called San Fernando,<br />

named after a canonized Spanish king,<br />

was carved out of two towns, Macasicu<br />

(the modern-day Mexico) and Bakulud<br />

(Bacolor today). In 1796, the new<br />

town pushed its northern frontier farther<br />

by clearing a forest teeming with<br />

culiat, a woody vine (Gnetum indicum,<br />

Lour) after which the barrio had been<br />

named. The event set into motion the<br />

long-running relationship between San<br />

Fernando and <strong>Angel</strong>es, which began as<br />

a mother-daughter or pueblo-visita<br />

set-up that eventually evolved into an<br />

aggressive rivalry.<br />

An 1818 account, prepared by the<br />

Ayuntamiento of Manila, presents a<br />

rare geographical description of the<br />

San Fernando-Culiat sphere. Done by<br />

Yldefonzo de Aragon, the El<br />

Comandante de Ingenieros (chief engineer)<br />

of the Ayuntamiento, the report<br />

mapped the roads and other<br />

means of transportation linking various<br />

settlements in the region, at that<br />

time largely hinterlands. Indeed, the<br />

colonial government then was seriously<br />

preparing an economic blueprint for<br />

the area, probably as an alternative to<br />

the Galleon Trade and the Tobacco Monopoly<br />

which the Spain was contemplating<br />

to abolish. In his Ytinerario for<br />

Pampanga, the chief engineer wrote:<br />

(The pueblo of San Fernando) is located<br />

in a vast plain and in the direction<br />

of a river by the same name, comprising<br />

in its jurisdiction the grand barrio named<br />

Culiat, situated 34º northwest and distanced<br />

by at least two leagues.<br />

He estimated that the town was<br />

around four miles away from the capital<br />

of Bacolor, while the two other boundaries,<br />

Sto. Tomas and Mexico, were a<br />

league and half-league away respectively.<br />

Even in those days, the chief engi-<br />

American Historical Collection<br />

The old road between San Fernando and <strong>Angel</strong>es<br />

The he Pue Pueblo Pue lo<br />

and and its its Visita isita isita, isita<br />

cir circa cir ca 1818<br />

1818<br />

A Spanish engineer considered<br />

the land between San Fernando<br />

and Culiat as “of excellent<br />

quality”<br />

By Lino L. Dizon<br />

neer already observed that “the said terrain<br />

between San Fernando and Culiat is<br />

quite elevated with some small hillocks,<br />

but the land is very fertile and of excellent<br />

quality,” which is why today it is considered<br />

the safest, most strategic and fastest<br />

developing area in the province.<br />

He attributed this to the preponderance<br />

of water sources and systems in the<br />

area. “A tributary of the Bacolor River,”<br />

he wrote, “stretches among those terrenes<br />

as it bifurcates north and south, collecting<br />

the waters of Arayat; and there are<br />

some rivulets found in the vicinity that proceed<br />

in the north by northwest direction<br />

from the mountains.”<br />

Jean Mallat, the French traveler who<br />

visited Pampanga in the 1840s and who used<br />

the Ayuntamineto report extensively<br />

in preparing his monumental<br />

book on the Philippines, mentioned<br />

that “courses of water descending<br />

from Mount Arayat are only streams<br />

during the dry season, but become<br />

impetuous torrents during the rainy<br />

period. It is also during this period<br />

that through the meeting of rains<br />

with the rivers, is formed the pinac<br />

of Candava, a great lake situated<br />

east of the pueblo of Bacolor and to<br />

the left of the great river (Rio<br />

Grande)….”<br />

It was common at that time to<br />

measure distances between settlements<br />

by the time spent in walking,<br />

but the engineer made an exception<br />

for the area because “even<br />

during the dry season, water communication<br />

between the towns of<br />

San Fernando and Bacolor remains,<br />

which is very deep, even today.”<br />

He probably knew of other waterways<br />

that had been silted or their<br />

courses altered, a phenomenon<br />

that would recur over and over,<br />

most spectacularly after the eruption<br />

of Mount Pinatubo.<br />

Mallat was also fascinated with the<br />

Gogo (Gugu) River, “which draws its<br />

sources from the mountains by the<br />

northeast.” Gogo (Entada<br />

phaseoloides), Aragon (the chief engineer)<br />

wrote in his report’s glossary, is a<br />

climbing shrub found in many parts of<br />

the Philippines whose bark is cut and<br />

crushed by the natives to make jabon<br />

(soap). Mallat, however, believed that<br />

the river had been named after a different<br />

kind of gogo, the kind “whose use<br />

facilitates the washing of gold sand (arenas<br />

del oro);” this plant, Mallat added,<br />

thrived in the area, but he stopped short<br />

of saying that the Kapampangans living<br />

around the river practiced gold panning.<br />

He did observe that the town benefited<br />

from the river through a small tributary that<br />

flowed far into the town’s territorial limits; this<br />

tributary had an uncharacteristically lengthy approach<br />

or embankment “where the natives fetch<br />

their drinking water.”<br />

Mallat had a high regard for the inhabitants<br />

who “have dedicated themselves<br />

to agriculture, raising large quantities<br />

of palay, sugar cane and also indigo<br />

(Indigofera tinctoria or añil) and corn.”<br />

He made special mention of the soil in<br />

Pampanga as very favorable in the cultivation<br />

of indigo.<br />

Yldefonzo de Aragon noted that there<br />

was already a liquor factory operating in<br />

Culiat at the time (1818). Even that early<br />

in history, the small barrio of San Fernando<br />

was well on its way to economic prosperity.

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