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Top 10 Madeira (Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guides)

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Around Central <strong>Madeira</strong><br />

76<br />

View of Curral das Freiras<br />

Curral das Freiras ^ A new road-tunnel now links<br />

the valley village of Curral das<br />

Freiras with the wider world, but<br />

for breathtaking views, travel<br />

along the old road via Eira do<br />

Serrado. By taking this route,<br />

you will also gain a sense of just<br />

how isolated this community<br />

once was (see pp30–31).<br />

Pico do Arieiro & In the colourful landscape of<br />

<strong>Madeira</strong>’s third highest peak you<br />

can read the story of the volcanic<br />

forces that created the island,<br />

and the elemental battles<br />

between wind, rock and rain that<br />

eroded it into jagged peaks and<br />

plunging ravines (see pp32–3).<br />

A-framed Houses<br />

The colourful A-framed houses of<br />

the Santana district were probably<br />

introduced by early settlers from<br />

the farming districts of central<br />

Portugal. Today they are used as<br />

houses, or as cattle byres. On an<br />

island of precipitous slopes, cattle<br />

can easily fall if left to graze freely,<br />

so they are kept in the cool<br />

shade of the thatched palheiros,<br />

to which their owners carry<br />

stacks of freshly cut grass and<br />

foliage at intervals during the day.<br />

* Ribeiro Frio<br />

The “Cold River” of this valley<br />

clearing tumbles down the<br />

mountainside to bring clear<br />

water to a trout farm set in a<br />

pretty garden planted with<br />

<strong>Madeira</strong>’s native flowers. Some<br />

of the trout inevitably end up on<br />

the menu of the Restaurante<br />

Ribeiro Frio opposite, a good<br />

place to begin or end a short<br />

walk along the dry levada to Balcões<br />

(see p51). A longer walk to<br />

Portela starts just below the restaurant;<br />

you need a map and<br />

guidebook to do the whole route,<br />

but you can enjoy splendid views<br />

of the dense green forest by<br />

sampling the first stretch. d Map<br />

H4 • São Roque de Faial bus 132<br />

( Santana<br />

Santana has <strong>Madeira</strong>’s best<br />

examples of the traditional tim-<br />

A-framed houses, Santana<br />

The weather on Pico do Arieiro is often clearest in the first part of<br />

the morning and in the evening, so plan your walk accordingly.

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