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Top 10 Madeira (Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guides)

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! Garajau<br />

A miniature version of Rio<br />

de Janeiro’s statue of<br />

Christ the Redeemer<br />

was erected on the<br />

wild and rocky headland<br />

at the southern end of<br />

the village in 1927. The<br />

terns (garajau in Portuguese)<br />

that gave their name to the<br />

village can still be seen from<br />

the zigzag path that winds<br />

down the cliff face to a<br />

pebble beach below the<br />

headland. Underwater<br />

caves and reefs rich in<br />

marine life extend for<br />

2 km (1 mile) to either<br />

side, and are protected<br />

as a marine reserve (see<br />

p90). d Map J6<br />

Caniço de Baixo @ Along Rua Baden Powell, the<br />

main street of this clifftop holiday<br />

village, you will find Inn and Art<br />

(see p115), a charming villa hotel<br />

that mounts exhibitions of modern<br />

art. The tiny Praia da Canavieira<br />

public beach is reached down an<br />

easily-missed alley near the junction<br />

with Rua da Falésia. For a<br />

small sum you can also use the<br />

Galomar Lido (open 9am–7pm<br />

summer, <strong>10</strong>am–5pm winter). The<br />

lido is the base for the Manta<br />

Diving Centre, which organizes<br />

trips to the Garajau Marine<br />

Reserve (see above). d Map J6<br />

Galomar Lido, Caniço de Baixo<br />

Satue of Christ the<br />

Redeemer, Garajau<br />

£ Santa Cruz<br />

Santa Cruz is a town of great<br />

character, and surprisingly peaceful,<br />

given that the airport runway<br />

is right next door. The focal<br />

point is the beach, lined with<br />

cafés and pastelarias (pastry<br />

shops), as well as the Art<br />

Deco-style Palm Beach<br />

Lido, painted azure and<br />

cream. Back from the<br />

coast and down winding<br />

alleys is a 15th-century Gothic<br />

church as splendid as the<br />

cathedral in Funchal, and<br />

perhaps designed by the<br />

same architect (see p8).<br />

d Map K5 • SAM bus 20, 23,<br />

53, 60, 70, 78, 113,156<br />

$ Machico<br />

Machico is where Captain<br />

Zarco and his crew first set foot<br />

on <strong>Madeira</strong> in 1420. The chapel<br />

they founded (see p40) is on the<br />

eastern side of the harbour,<br />

shaded by giant Indian fig trees.<br />

A statue of Machico’s first governor,<br />

Tristão Vaz Teixeira, stands in<br />

front of the fine 15th-century<br />

parish church on the main<br />

square. A grid of cobbled alleys<br />

leads from here down to the<br />

seafront fortress. d Map K4 • SAM<br />

bus 20, 23, 53, 78, 113,156<br />

% Caniçal<br />

Caniçal holds the dubious<br />

honour of being a former whaling<br />

port. In 1956, John Huston<br />

came here to shoot the<br />

opening scenes of Moby<br />

Dick, but its star, Gregory<br />

Peck, became so seasick<br />

that they had to shoot the<br />

rest in a studio. The<br />

Museu da Baleia (see p39)<br />

explains how conservation<br />

has replaced whaling. Tuna<br />

fishing now plays a vital<br />

role in the local economy.<br />

d Map L4 • SAM bus 113<br />

Around Eastern <strong>Madeira</strong> 87

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