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Top 10 Madeira (Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guides)

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Wind-eroded cliffs, Fonte da Areia<br />

The path to the cove starts at the<br />

end of the road that leads to the<br />

Centro Hipico, at the western<br />

end of the island. d Map K2<br />

( Fonte da Areia<br />

Water once bubbled straight<br />

out of the sandstone cliffs at<br />

Fonte da Areia (“Fountain of<br />

Sand”), but in 1843 the spring<br />

was tamed, and you can now<br />

taste the natural, rock-filtered<br />

mineral water by simply turning a<br />

tap. The path to the spring leads<br />

down a wind-eroded gully, where<br />

the cliffs have been sculpted into<br />

laminated sheets of harder and<br />

softer rock. Lovers have carved<br />

their names on the rock face, but<br />

so ferocious is the scouring wind<br />

that declarations of perpetual<br />

love inscribed <strong>10</strong> years ago are<br />

now growing faint. d Map L1<br />

) Pico do Castelo<br />

The high peak to the east of<br />

Vila Baleira is called Castle Peak,<br />

though despite its name, it was<br />

never fortified. From the 15th<br />

century on it was used as a<br />

place of refuge whenever pirates<br />

threatened to attack. It was<br />

equipped with a cannon, which<br />

still survives at the lookout point<br />

near the summit. A cobbled road<br />

takes you all the way to the lookout,<br />

past the cypress, cedar and<br />

pine trees that have been planted<br />

to turn the slopes from sandy<br />

to green. d Map L1<br />

A Day on Porto Santo<br />

Morning<br />

You should ideally hire a<br />

car (see p98) for this tour,<br />

though you could do it by<br />

taxi. Start by driving northeast<br />

out of Vila Baleira<br />

(see p95), up to the viewing<br />

point at Portela. Nearby,<br />

you will see three<br />

windmills of a type once<br />

common on Porto Santo.<br />

Carry on around the eastern<br />

end of the island, until<br />

a turning to the right takes<br />

you down to Serra de Fora<br />

beach. Some 2 km (1 mile)<br />

further north are traditional<br />

stone houses at Serra de<br />

Dentro and fine views<br />

from Pico Branco.<br />

At the Camacha crossroads,<br />

a drivable track to the left<br />

leads up Pico do Castelo,<br />

soon turning into a stonepaved<br />

road. The viewing<br />

point at the top has great<br />

views over central Porto<br />

Santo. Back down at<br />

Camacha, there is a choice<br />

of cafés and bars for lunch.<br />

Afternoon<br />

First stop after lunch is<br />

Fonte da Areia. Despite<br />

looking arid, Porto Santo<br />

has several natural springs<br />

like this one. Next, head<br />

on toward Campo de Cima.<br />

As you drive alongside the<br />

airport runway, you will<br />

see some of the few vineyards<br />

left on the island<br />

that still produce wine.<br />

Take the road up Pico de<br />

Ana Ferreira, then continue<br />

on foot to see its<br />

extraordinary-looking<br />

basalt columns. Afterwards,<br />

drive on to the stunning<br />

westernmost tip of the<br />

island, Ponta da Calheta.<br />

You should have plenty of<br />

time for relaxing on the<br />

sand, a swim, or a drink at<br />

the beach bar, before<br />

returning to Vila Baleira.<br />

Around Porto Santo 97

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