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Top 10 Madeira (Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guides)

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Around Western <strong>Madeira</strong><br />

84<br />

Left Ribeira da Janela Right Ponta do Sol<br />

Best of the Rest<br />

! Ribeira da Janela<br />

This wild, uninhabited valley<br />

18 km (11 miles) long, joins the<br />

sea beside a rocky islet with a<br />

window-like hole (hence the<br />

name, “Window Valley”). The road<br />

descends through a misty world<br />

of ancient trees kept moist by the<br />

condensation of clouds. d Map C1<br />

@ Fanal<br />

This forest house halfway up<br />

the Ribeira de Janela is the starting<br />

point for walks that lead<br />

through an alpine landscape of<br />

herb-rich meadows, filled with<br />

ancient laurel trees. d Map C2<br />

£ Ponta do Sol<br />

The American novelist John<br />

dos Passos (1896–1970) visited<br />

this sun-trap village in 1960 to<br />

see his grandparents’ house –<br />

now being turned into a cultural<br />

centre. d Map D5<br />

$ Lombada<br />

On a ridge above Ponta do<br />

Sol is one of <strong>Madeira</strong>’s oldest<br />

houses – the 15th-century mansion<br />

of Columbus’s friend João<br />

Esmeraldo (see p65). The watermill<br />

opposite is fed by one of the<br />

island’s oldest levadas. A pretty<br />

church of 1722 is lined with tile<br />

pictures of the Virtues. d Map D5<br />

% Arco da Calheta<br />

Another early church survives<br />

at the heart of this sprawling village<br />

– the mid-15th-century<br />

Capela do Loreto, founded by the<br />

wife of Zarco’s grandson. d Map C4<br />

Lombo dos Reis ^ The “Ridge of the Kings” is<br />

named after the tiny, rustic Capela<br />

dos Reis Magos (“Chapel of the<br />

Three Kings”), which has a rare<br />

early 16th-century Flemish altar<br />

carving of the Nativity. d Map B4<br />

Lugar de Baixo & Above the tiny freshwater<br />

lagoon at Lugar de Baixo is a visitor<br />

centre with pictures of the<br />

wild birds that frequent this<br />

rocky shore, though you are<br />

more likely to see domesticated<br />

ducks and moorhens. d Map D5<br />

* Prazeres<br />

The priest at Prazeres has<br />

established a small children’s<br />

farm opposite the church, but<br />

the main attraction is the flowerlined<br />

path along the Levada Nova<br />

(“New Levada”), which can be<br />

followed east or west. d Map B3<br />

( Paúl do Mar<br />

The best approach to this<br />

fishing (and surfing) village is<br />

down the twisting road from Fajã<br />

de Orvela. On the way, look out<br />

for a glimpse of the stunning<br />

Galinas Gorge. d Map A3<br />

) Cristo Rei<br />

This statue of Christ (on the<br />

ER209 road to Paúl da Serra) is<br />

reminiscent of the famous one in<br />

Rio de Janeiro. It is also the<br />

starting point for easy levada<br />

walks – west to the Paúl da<br />

Serra, east to the waterfalls at<br />

Cascalho. d Map D4

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