GREY GARDENS // REMEMBERING A COUPLE OF CHARACTERS // In its glory days, Grey Gardens, a graceful 14-room estate in East Hampton, was home to the pedigreed Bouvier Beale clan (cousins of Jackie Kennedy). When Jackie’s aunt Edie Beale divorced in 1946, the mansion began its descent into disrepair. Together, bohemian “Big Edie” and her eccentric daughter “Little Edie” lived a secluded life among 52 cats and the remnants of their once-grand life. In 1975, the women became the subject of the Maysles brothers’ haunting documentary Grey Gardens (later a Broadway show). Today, the estate is owned by Ben Bradlee and Sally Quinn. Wrangling an invite can be tough, but if you want to drive past for a peek, ask a local nicely where it is. 3PD LONG ISLAND you’ve ever tasted: thick slabs of warm Eli’s Tuscan bread, rashers of smoky bacon and a generous slathering of mayo. Your cardiologist might be alarmed, but not to worry: You’re about to off set the meal with a hearty walk. Hop in your Jaguar XK convertible and drive through the village’s Estate Section (privet hedge–lined streets packed with nine-bedroom “cottages”) before you fi nd Gin Lane and the beach. Park near St. Andrew’s Dune Church (7), an old life-saving station turned seaside chapel, and doff your shoes before climbing up the slope to Cooper’s Beach (8). Walk east until the sunbathers thin out and it’s just you and the locals in their rolled-up khakis, letting their Labradors stretch their legs. Then fi nd a spot in the dunes to take in the gnashing Atlantic. After walking until your calves begin to protest, you drive around Lake Agawam to Meadow Lane, top down, listening to the fi rm pop of the tennis balls at the prestigious Meadow Club (9) and peeking at the slivers of vast houses down ominously long private driveways. Then it’s back to your lodgings for a quick snooze before you freshen up for dinner at Red/Bar Brasserie (10), a Mediterranean eatery in a sprawling farmhouse that served as a speakeasy during Prohibition. In honor of the repeal, sidle up to the bar before positioning yourself at a corner table to watch the jovial crowd while you dine on Malpeque oysters and black truffl e–stuff ed chicken breast. It’s good to be king. DAY TWO Stretch your limbs and begin packing your bag. Before checking out, 2 ask for a voucher for breakfast across the street at The Golden Pear Cafe (1), where you’ll order a bagel and coff ee and check your portfolio in the New York papers. Back in the Jag, you turn up Hampton Road to Route 27 and head farther out on the South Fork, wending your way through the villages of Water Mill and Bridgehampton, where you follow in the footsteps of Truman Capote and Jackie Kennedy and stop for a caff eine top-up at the Bridgehampton Candy Kitchen (2). This is the Hamptons institution where CEOs connect with their inner fi ve-year-olds, indulging in burgers and fries followed by double cones packed with mint chocolate chip ice cream. Arriving in East Hampton, you check into The Hedges Inn (3), a polished inn GRASS IS ALWAYS GREENER A croquet tournament in Southampton; above, Nick & Toni’s CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: PHOTOGRAPHS BY STUART CONWAY, AUGUSTUS BUTERA/MARGE CASEY + ASSOCIATES, BY ANDRE JENNY/ALAMY, BY GORDON GRANT (3), BY EVERETT COLLECTION
CHASING WINDMILLS Clockwise, a cyclist in Southampton; a Bridgehampton windmill; East Hampton Main Street; Job’s Lane in Southampton
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