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A Cellarful of Nose - Future Shoes

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In the 1960s the government finally saw that Antigua with its<br />

colonial architecture had major tourism potential, and went to<br />

work reconstructing the fallen walls. The restoration was the pride<br />

<strong>of</strong> the entire country until 1976 when an earthquake – worse than<br />

any other, and centered almost precisely at Antigua – flattened the<br />

work <strong>of</strong> men again.<br />

The quake, in one anecdote, flattened a convent while the<br />

sisters were at prayer. Rescue teams, in the face <strong>of</strong> the<br />

catastrophe, decided to leave them where they lay, under the<br />

massive slabs.<br />

(Claustrophobia in Spanish means, literally, fear <strong>of</strong> the<br />

cloister. The old tales <strong>of</strong> Antigua were rife with the sufferings <strong>of</strong><br />

young girls behind the convent walls. The terramoto gives the<br />

pun a third, insidious interpretation.)<br />

The quake was not merely a setback for tourism, however; it<br />

demolished the country's frail economy as well. Inflation<br />

skyrocketed. There was not enough money to get the country<br />

back on its feet. Guatemala turned, as it always must, to another<br />

strongman.<br />

*<br />

At the Cathedral <strong>of</strong> San Francisco in Antigua, besides an<br />

interesting crucified Christ made <strong>of</strong> plaster <strong>of</strong> ground corn cob, is<br />

the tomb <strong>of</strong> Father Pedro de Bethancourt.<br />

(Also, the grave <strong>of</strong> the wife <strong>of</strong> the man who discovered<br />

California, but she has been punished enough.)<br />

Plastered all around the tomb, higher up along the stone<br />

18

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