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A Cellarful of Nose - Future Shoes

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city <strong>of</strong> Worthington.<br />

Like our city, San Benito is located alongside a lake, about<br />

150 miles from a major city. Population: roughly 10,000.<br />

The problem is that it is situated on the vast limestone shelf<br />

<strong>of</strong> the Guatemalan lowlands, making an effective sewer system<br />

impossible.<br />

Accordingly, waste <strong>of</strong> every kind is piling up in San Benito,<br />

and has been for decades. The city smells. Its market, unlike the<br />

typical Guatemalan market – attractive and not entirely without<br />

order – is like one great indiscriminate heap <strong>of</strong> produce and flesh,<br />

with the freshest on top and the most fetid trampled underfoot.<br />

In the back bins, children and the elderly sort through the<br />

rotting vegetables for parts still edible.<br />

Guatemala is a poor country, but seldom squalid. San Benito<br />

is squalid. We were eager to leave, but dismayed when,<br />

approaching the bus that we had heard such nightmarish tales<br />

about, it was already full to the exploding point.<br />

I counted 93 bodies on board, not counting two turkeys and<br />

an undisclosed number <strong>of</strong> chickens issuing complaints from a<br />

burlap sack. This was on a bus whose maximum capacity in the<br />

United States would be 54 or 60.<br />

Happily, a Spaniard architect preferred to be smashed up<br />

against us than against any alternatives on board and <strong>of</strong>fered to<br />

share his seat.<br />

Less happy were a group <strong>of</strong> British tourists with pigtails (the<br />

51

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