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A Cellarful of Nose - Future Shoes

A Cellarful of Nose - Future Shoes

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Grave Possibility, then you're the silly one, and your silly<br />

contempt.<br />

The sun bore down on us as we stood in line and one by one<br />

surrendered our papers. My Spaniard architect friend seemed to<br />

have a problem. Guatemala has broken <strong>of</strong>f relations with Spain, I<br />

thought. I considered coming to his assistance, then fantasized<br />

myself saying the wrong thing:<br />

"Listen here, soldier. I'm an American journalist, and<br />

everything you do here will wind up in a major publication back<br />

in the United States, so I advise you..."<br />

Blam. Thud. Fantasy concluded.<br />

*<br />

We reboarded. Exhausted, we jolted along another sixty<br />

miles, another three hours.<br />

By now the lime dust was everywhere on us, our hair was<br />

stiff with it. Children were bawling inconsolably. The English<br />

leaned glumly into one another. The grandmother had emptied<br />

two coconuts in two strong draughts and slept now, head<br />

slamming unmercifully, rhythmically – and strangely peacefully –<br />

against the bus window.<br />

We came to a river. We were asked to get <strong>of</strong>f the bus, take all<br />

our luggage, cross a rickety plank-bridge as best we could, and<br />

reboard another bus – whose passengers had been waiting for us<br />

for over three hours – on the other side!<br />

But the long day, the long road was almost behind us. It was<br />

56

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