From Slip Dress to Top - My Label 3D Fashion Pattern Software

From Slip Dress to Top
This top has:
Pleat effect over bodice and back
Satin straps
V-neck
Rolled-hem finish
Silk lining
Fit Information
- Form-fitting, tailored style
- Hem edge tapers to a point in centre-
front and -back
- Finished length approx. 85 cm
Fabric recommendations
- Silk crepe
- Silk satin
- Viscose
- Chiffon

Style variant
From Slip Dress to Top
Select model
Open My Label software and open or recreate the desired model in the models drawer.
Select style
In the styles drawer, under the heading ‘Dresses’, select the Slip Dress.
- Open style
- Open Slip Dress
- Reduce underbust circumference by 4cm
- Desired finished length approx. 85cm
Pattern alteration via stitch placement
Detailed instructions for this can be found in the Appendix.
Tip: Stitch lines cannot be placed over darts.
Bottom front
Drag the hemline 8cm below the hip marking diagonally up to the hemline of the centre
of the pattern piece.
Draw in new underbust line with a slightly rounded shape, beginning at the waist
marking and stopping 5cm short of the centre-front of the bodice section.
Mark in one vertical line per pattern-piece half (cutting line for additional width).
Copy and position the new markings on the opposite pattern-piece half.
Bodice section
Drag slightly rounded cutting line from side seam up to neckline.

Complete the new underbust line of the lower front section: beginning about 5cm before
the centre-front, mark up to 2cm below the V-neck point.
Back
Copy and position the hemline of the front section on the back. For the back yoke, draw
in a cross-line matching the front section in height, starting at the waist marking. Take
the height of the underbust line from the front section and mark it parallel over the back
section, in a slightly rounded shape.
Extend the dart ends up to the new hemline (cutting lines for additional widths).
Tip: If wished, strap markings can be drawn in as an aid. These generally need to be
corrected after trying on the garment.

Print pattern pieces
Position, save and print out pattern pieces.
Only the lower front and back sections as well as the bodice section are needed.
Cut out pattern pieces and make alterations by hand
Before cutting out, check fit and cutting lines of redesigned front and back sections, and
correct height and shape if necessary.
Bodice and front
Before cutting out the bodice, widen the shoulder seam towards the neckline by 5cm.
Mark in the new neckline and extend the bodice line to the newly defined neckline (Fig.
1).
Fig.1
Cut out front bodice section without seam allowances.
Cut out lower front section, then glue both pattern pieces together on the underbust line
of the front section (Fig. 2).
Fig. 2
Draw a vertical line from the bust-point marking up to the underbust line.
Place tissue paper underneath the bodice up to waist marking and cut bodice off from
lower section.

Correct underbust line (Fig. 3)
Fig.3
Slash the dart line on the bottom edge of the pattern piece up to the old underbust line.
This creates a gap corresponding to the dart depth.
Draw in the dart in the centre (Fig.4).
Fig. 4
Even out new underbust line; add on 1.6cm seam allowance all around and cut out
(Figs. 5 and 6).
Fig. 5 Fig.6

Lower-front section
Cut out front section without seam allowances. Cut apart along the vertical marking line
up to the underbust line.
Place paper underneath the pattern.
Insert 4cm additional width at each underbust line and 9cm additional width at each
hem edge (left and right part of front section). Glue pattern pieces.
Even out hem and side seams so as to yield a harmonious line.
Even out underbust line if necessary and draw in a crossways marking for the zip.
Add on 1.6cm seam allowance all around and cut out (Fig. 7).
Lower-back section
Cut out back yoke and lower-back section at forearm height and in the waist without
seam allowances.
Cut lengthways markings apart up to the waist.
An addition width of 4cm in each case (2.5cm dart depth plus 1.5cm additional width) is
added onto the lower section in the waist.
9cm are added at the hem in each case. The pattern pieces are then glued according to
the indicated additional width (Fig. 8).
Even out waist line and adjust hem curve to the front section. Add on 1.6cm seam
allowance all around.
Take the zip marking from the front section (Fig.9).
Fig.7 Fig.8 Fig.9
Back yoke
Slash the yoke on both sides along the darts up to the top edge.
Slide together and glue the pattern pieces in dart width (Fig.10).
Fig.10 Fig.11
Even out waist line and top edge. Add on 1.6cm seam allowance all around (Fig. 11).

Fabric requirement
Fabric Key
Fabric, right Fabric, wrong
side
side
Symbols and Markings Key
CF
CB
Centre Front
Marking
points on
front sections
Centre Back
Marking points
on back
sections
B9
Lining, right
side
Sheet
numbering
Pleating in
direction of
arrow
Lining, wrong
side
Reference points – help
in combining the
individual sheets
Marking of dart ends
(1cm before the dart
point in each case)
Interfacing
Grain
Button
marking
The illustration shows one way the pattern pieces can be laid out on a folded length of
fabric. Since the pattern pieces are created according to your own personal
measurements and preferences, they may differ from the sizes and shapes of the
pattern layout.
Pattern-layout illustration
Outer fabric 140cm wide to fabric fold, approx. 2.5m
Lining fabric approx. 2.0m

Materials and miscellaneous
Zip, approx. 30cm
Satin ribbon, approx. 3.5m (max. 3cm wide) for edging
Stay tape, if wished
Tip: Use right half of pattern piece for outer fabric, left half for lining.
Cutting out
Outer fabric Lining
1 x bodice to fabric fold 1 x lower front section to fabric fold
1 x lower front section to fabric fold 1 x back yoke to fabric fold
1 x back yoke to fabric fold 1 x lower back section to fabric fold
1 x lower back section to fabric fold 1 x bodice to fabric fold
Preparation
Arrange the paper-pattern pieces on the fabric according to the pattern-layout
illustration. Cut out pieces, then transfer all markings to the fabric. Mark delicate fabrics
with darning thread.
Make irregular pleats in the bodice fabric; press, and staystitch the pleats from the
wrong side (Fig.12).
Fig.12
The pleats should run from the centre to the selvedge or to the side seam, as
applicable.
Depending on the size of the pattern pieces, you’ll need 30-40cm fabric for the pleats.
Pin or baste the pleats in place before pressing if necessary. After pressing, arrange
and cut out the pattern pieces.
Tip: Pin gently draping fabrics such as chiffon or silk onto paper, then cut out.
When cutting out, make sure that the pleats on the outer fabric run from the centre of
the fabric towards the side seams.
Ironing spray makes it easier to press the pleats.
Sewing instructions
Work outer fabric and lining in the same way
Back yoke and back section
Outer fabric
Sew back yoke and back section together with right sides facing, gathering the
additional width of the back section and adjusting it to the yoke width. Trim seam
allowance, neaten if necessary, and iron towards the yoke.
Sew together back sections of lining as for the outer fabric.

Sew together back lining and outer-fabric section along the top edge. Trim and neaten
seam allowance. Understitch the seam allowance towards the lining and press (Figs.13
and 14).
Fig.13 Fig.14
Join bodice with front section
Close darts on lining and on outer fabric (Fig.15). If necessary, topstitch the darts on the
outer fabric so that the pleats don’t stick out.
Mark the points of the bodice and lower-front section according to Fig. 16.
Sew together lower-front section and bodice such that the additional widths are
gathered, or adjusted to the underbust seam by means of gathering threads.
Fig.15 Fig.16 Fig.17
Tip: When sewing together the sections, begin at a side
seam and sew up to the point marking in the centre-front (Fig. 17).
Snip the point on the bodice up to 1mm short of the marking, then sew the second side.
Trim and neaten seam allowances and press to the lining or outer fabric.
Baste or understitch edges if necessary.
Sew lining- and outer-fabric sections together along the neckline edge.
Trim seam allowances; snip in the neckline point, neaten if necessary, and iron to the
bodice.
Side seam
Close left side of top in one go; trim and press seam allowance.
Tip: With very delicate fabrics, the seam can be sewn with an overlock rolled seam.
Alternatively, neaten the seam allowances individually.

Satin ribbon
Arrange the satin ribbon along the underbust edging and pin in place.
Beginning at the zip opening, stitch the satin ribbon onto the centre of the underbust
seam for about 10cm (to the outer fabric only). Make sure that the ribbon is cut
according to the strap length.
Stitch the satin ribbon to the front, again for 10cm, and only to the outer fabric (Fig.18).
Fig.18
Sew in zip
Neaten seam allowances individually. Sew zip into outer fabric.
With right lining side to wrong zip side, sew lining to zip.
Finish sewing on satin ribbon
Secure outer fabric and lining together along the underbust seam. Pin on and stitch
satin ribbon in centre, along the underbust seam up to the beginning of the strap.
Hem edges
For hemming the edges, a narrow strip of interfacing can be ironed on. This makes it
easier to iron a narrow-edge hem in and over.
Alternatively, hem with an overlocker.
Tip: Additional hem-treatment options:
- Secure hem edge 1cm in from the edge with just a straight-stitched seam and allow to
fray.
- Sew on cords, beads or sequins with the Bernina Bulky overlock foot no. 12.
- Hem the edge with the Bernina Roll and shell hemmer foot no. 68 / 69.
Further detailed information can be found in your My Label program at
Help> Sewing Techniques. This option offers detailed instructions on the proper way to
sew belt loops, collars, pockets, linings and much more. It also deals with basic sewing
techniques for newcomers.