MASTER MECHANICS

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14 MANUFACTURING europa star THE SWISS WATCH PLANET IN MOVEMENT – PART 3 The Master Mechanics For the third and last segment of our major inquiry into the ‘boom’ of Swiss mechanical movements, we have taken a look at the ‘watchmaking specialties’. This is a large term, but it covers a wide range of complications where we can find everything and anything, from special displays, among them the retrograde indications, to tourbillons and other mechanical follies. RPierre Maillard W Whether they are affiliated with a brand such as Renaud & Papi, of which 78.4 per cent is owned by Audemars Piguet, or are independent such as Les Artisans Horlogers, whether they are a true verticalized manufacture such as Christophe Claret or a fiercely independent artist-constructor such as Agenhor, or whether they also master virtual imaging and micro-mechanics such as Magma Concept, all these companies have something in common. They are all part of a new generation of ‘suppliers’ that we would do better to call ‘partners in creation’. Those that we have just cited—but the list is far from being complete so for anyone that we have not included, please forgive us—have become indispensable for many brands that are caught up in the necessity of having to offer mechanical innovation (sometimes at the risk of mechanical inflation). This mechanical innovation allows brands to reap a lot of media coverage even if not a lot of economic benefits. The designers, constructors, inventors of unusual functions, the mechanical aces and the magicians of the cams often all play a pivotal strategic role. And from these highly specialized enterprises come a great many watches with high-end labels and brand names. The fact that these timepieces were not made by the brands in question is not always known to the general public. And speaking of brands, there are many different types that turn to the specialty companies. There are those that don’t hesitate to declare their collaboration, and then there are those who will go to any lengths to hide it. Some of the former are cited below, but be assured that the list is much longer especially since the latter, those brands that do not promote transparency and those adepts at having so-called ‘in-house’ movements, are much greater in numbers. A strategic yet exposed position By occupying this central strategic position, the ‘Master Mechanics’ are exposed to all the air currents that agitate watchmaking’s economic sphere. When watchmaking catches a cold, they start to cough. Caught up in the race for mechanical added-value that preceded the financial crisis, they are today faced with clients many of whom don’t really know where to go next. Some of these ‘Master Mechanics’ have admitted this fact to us quite openly: the brands are equivocating;
THE SIMPLICITY OF INNOVATION. LUMINOR MARINA 1950 3 DAYS AUTOMATIC Automatic mechanical movement P.9000 calibre, two spring barrels, 3-day power reserve. Water-resistance 300 metres. Steel case 44 mm Ø. Steel buckle. Available exclusively at Panerai boutiques and select authorized watch specialists. www.panerai.com
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MASTER MECHANICS

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