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56 SIHH europa star Montblanc honours the chronograph RKeith W. Strandberg F For this year’s SIHH, Montblanc is celebrating the invention of the chronograph, 190 years ago this year. Montblanc considers itself a chronograph specialist, so this year at SIHH, the brand is introducing three special chronographs, as well as an affordably-priced GMT timepiece. “The biggest challenge we face is to communicate our deep know-how in two areas: state of the art high horology with Montblanc and artisanal watchmaking in Villeret,” says Alexander Schmiedt of Montblanc. “People don’t necessarily think of watches when they hear Montblanc and we are out to change that.” Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph To commemorate the invention of the chronograph by Nicolas Rieussec in 1821, Montblanc Villeret is bringing out a new sober interpretation of the brand’s iconic Nicolas Rieussec monopusher, column-wheel chronograph. This timepiece comes in two versions, an automatic in a regular series, while the manual winding watch is available in a limited series (25 in platinum, 90 in white gold and 190 in red gold). Collection Villeret 1858 Vintage Pulsograph Based on the famous Pulsograph chronograph, a monopusher with a scale for determined pulse rates, Montblanc Villeret is introducing a new smaller size (39.5mm) chronograph, with 58 watches in white gold and 58 in rose gold. Finished by hand, this piece is something truly special. TimeWalker Twin Fly Chronograph Next is the TimeWalker Twin Fly Chronograph, a new calibre that Montblanc developed in collaboration with movement manufacturer NICOLAS RIEUSSEC CHRONOGRAPH COLLECTION VILLERET 1858 VINTAGE PULSOGRAPH TIMEWALKER TWIN FLY CHRONOGRAPH STAR WORLDTIMER AND RETROGRADE Val Fleurier - a monopusher flyback chronograph with the seconds and the minutes on the central axis. This watch is available in a 300 piece limited edition in Titanium DLC and a non-limited steel version. Star WorldTimer and Retrograde To introduce real watchmaking at an affordable price, Montblanc has developed the Star WorldTimer. Using an ETA movement with a Montblanc patent on the world timer system, the WorldTimer is a GMT with world time, with all functions controlled by the crown. Also in this range is the new Star Retrograde, which has an annual calendar, a retrograde date, a day of the week subdial and a power reserve indication. “We want to play with small complications in our classic Star range,” says Schmidt. Montblanc’s slate of new chronographs is designed to cement its status as the chronograph specialists across the board, from volume manufacturing in Montblanc to the artisanal, handmade timepieces from Villeret. O For more information about Montblanc click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com
Richard Mille – the man, the brand The image Richard Mille the man and Richard Mille the brand are nigh on indistinguishable, because, unlike many other brands, all the ideas and creations start in the mind of Richard Mille, then make their way into the brand’s production. For 2011, Richard Mille’s mind is set on North and South America. Richard Mille, in partnership with John Simonian, President of Ildico, the United States distributor of Richard Mille, opened the first boutique in Beverly Hills in November of 2010. “My objective is to have a presence in terms of image - I am not obsessed with opening up boutiques, I think of it as more of a showroom for the brand,” Mille explains. “My ladies watches are less successful, because most of the retailers are watch technical people, they are sharp and very macho, and 90 per cent of their clientele are men. The boutique is to enhance and promote the ladies versions, to spread the word. My boutiques are not macho temples. I have seen that the sales of the ladies models are really booming in the boutiques, and I like that. My objective was to launch a ladies model without losing my soul and without losing the technical image I have. I wanted to combine both worlds in harmony.The watch is feminine, but it still very mechanical.” The Richard Mille boutique in Beverly Hills will share the same DNA as other Mille boutiques around the world, but with a distinctive American feeling. The current situation Business is coming back after the downturn of the worldwide economic crisis.“So far we have nothing to complain about, despite the problems one hears discussed daily,” says Mille. “Sales this year have been higher than last year, and even last year’s turnover was much higher than the year before...so we are really pleased. Nonetheless, we will not sit back and relax because of that, we will work even harder to keep this upward trend going strong.” Mille sees the watch industry breaking up into niches, with each niche existing on its own and not necessarily impacting the others. “The market is ‘splitting up’ into segments, separate areas,” he details. “It used to be that a general trend, like hemlines, caught on and went worldwide. Now, you have to have smaller, flatter watches, large watches, simple watches, complicated watches … there are no really general, broad trends anymore and everyone follows their own taste, and as a watch brand you have to offer everything to the public. “We are watching a few trends,” he continues. “It is interesting to see that since I introduced my RM 020 tourbillon pocket watch a few years ago, pocket watches are getting more attention from several brands than was previously the case.Also, we are seeing more ultra flat models being introduced, after we had launched the RM 016, a few years ago.” europa star SIHH 57 The Richard Mille brand has gone through some interesting transitions since its introduction in 2001. Then, it was a boutique brand with severely limited production. As the years went on, Mille upped the production numbers slightly and expanded his offering, while still focusing on his unique style and real watchmaking values. Last year, Richard Mille debuted at the SIHH and took its place in the watchmaking pantheon, having accomplished a great deal in the short nine years since its inception. RKeith W. Strandberg Richard Mille The strongest markets for Richard Mille timepieces are Asia, followed by the European Union and then the United States, and Mille is optimistic about the coming year.“We are feeling totally confident about 2011,” he says.“We believe it could even become better than expected with the general market mood becoming even more positive.” SIHH For SIHH, the Richard Mille booth has been expanded to make more space available, and the method of presentation has been tweaked and improved. “It’s hard to choose just one new product to talk about for 2011, but for me, the most exciting product would have to be the new RM 017 Tourbillon with its titanium base plate,” Mille says. “I really love rectangular forms, and I have always wanted to produce a tourbillon in a similar case to the RM 016, keeping the look of depth of the movement design despite the fact that this watch is very thin. It was hard to achieve, but now I’ve achieved the look I want and it will be fantastic.” “I am having fun because what I love is to work on new developments,” Mille continues. “It’s fun all the time, and for me it’s only pleasure. I develop new models, I have fun, though sometimes there are headaches with problems and issues to figure out, but in the end, it all works out. My only problem is to define the proper planning for each model. You always know when you start, but you never know when it will end.” A key case in point is the Richard Mille numbering system which, believe it or not, was supposed to be logical and in order. However, once some watches were delayed, things got out of hand. “It’s a mess,” Mille admits. “I put
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MASTER MECHANICS

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