MASTER MECHANICS

22 MANUFACTURING europa star
role is to assemble the first ten pieces of a new
model. It is here that the protocols for assembly,
lubrication and other operations are precisely
defined.
From here, we pass to the ateliers for assembly
and encasing that employ nearly 40 people.
Divided into small islands dedicated to one
client or to a specific complication, each of
these watchmakers is in charge of the complete
realization of a watch.This task, on average,
takes a full month.
Next to these workshops are the ateliers for
decoration and finishing: chamfering, satining,
circular-graining, Côtes de Genève, polishing,
and skeletonizing. There are also units
devoted to after-sales service, to training and
one called the Office of Watch Concepts that,
until quite recently, was directed by Frédéric
Garinaud, the last on our list of having struck
out on his own.
Cardinal value: reliability
When asked what the specificities of Renaud
& Papi are, Giulio Papi responds:“…in no particular
order, being able to propose ideas and
then make them happen; being intransigent
when it comes to the quality of finishing and
decoration; and making reliable watches.” He
insists particularly on this point: “We aim for
zero returns, but let’s face it, to arrive at this
point would be like finding the Grail. That has
never happened to any watchmaker. In reality,
we have about 10 per cent of new pieces
come back and about 3 per cent returned after
the models are stabilized, a number that we
can still be very proud of.We make reliability a
point of honour. It is a cardinal value in watchmaking.
So, we never introduce a product that
is not 100 per cent ready. We never sell anything
based on images.”
What therefore does Renaud & Papi sell? “In
the realm of calibres,” explains Giulio Papi,
“we have three different regulating organs:
thus three escapements—one traditional
Swiss in-line palettes, a Swiss palettes for
tourbillon and one that needs no lubrication,
the famous Robin escapement reserved for
Audemars Piguet, that we currently produce
only in an artisanal manner. It is thus expensive
but we could produce it on an industrial
scale. These escapements are equipped with
three different balances, with two different
speeds, 21,600 vibrations/hour or 43,200
vibrations/hour. Moreover, we have two systems
for energy accumulation, with one or
two barrels, for power reserves of 48 hours, 72
hours, or ten days. We have a common winding
system and time correction in all our
watches, except for Chanel’s Rétrograde
Mystérieuse, but that is another story (for this
watch, see our Cover Story in this issue on
Chanel). In terms of complete movements, we
propose two different minute repeaters—one
small, one large—two different integrated
chronographs, a flyback, a grand sonnerie, and
three perpetual calendars. And, using these
bases, we offer all sorts of variants.”
We might add also that Renaud & Papi has
made a name for itself with Richard Mille in
the particular domain of ultra-light materials.
We think notably of the latest RM 027, the
‘Nadal’, a tourbillon watch realized in a very
special carbon and that weighs only about 20
grammes. “A victory”, in the words of Giulio
Papi, “because the perception of value had
been up to now always tied to weight—the
heavier it is, the more expensive the piece.
We have succeeded in reversing this axiom”.
This experience was acquired with Audemars
Piguet and its famous Royal Oak in forged carbon.
But Giulio Papi, as fascinated as he is
with new materials, remains very cautious,
however, when it comes to silicon. “I am not
criticizing the technology itself but all our escapements
are made in traditional materials.
Why? We know that in time silicon will no
longer be used in micro-processors and that
the equipment designed to work with this
material will disappear. These are the same
machines used in watchmaking. I am afraid
that in 50 to 100 years, we will no longer be
able to repair silicon escapements.”
How has the company weathered the economic
crisis? “Since 2008, which was a record
year, our turnover has varied only very little. For
2010, we expected a decrease of five per cent
but we ended the year even. For 2011, we are
also expecting a five per cent decline, but we
will see what happens… It is not so serious for
us since all our installations are financed and
we have no current leases.”
CHRISTOPHE CLARET’S, (NEARLY)
COMPLETE MANUFACTURE
The great strength of Christophe Claret is to
have succeeded, in 22 years of independent
activity, in constructing a very high-end integrated
production tool, worthy of the very
sophisticated products that the company creates
to the level of 90 per cent in-house. Of
the 115 people who work there, some 40 are
certified watchmakers who produce a very
small number of watches—around 420 to
450 per year.The simplest and least expensive
is CHF 35,000, while the most expensive
reaches around CHF 120,000 (ex-factory
price, so multiply that by four, five, six or even
seven, depending on the brand!). Besides his
undeniable talents as a watch designer, the
power of Christophe Claret is that he excels
as much in the design and production of his
own movements as he does in the cases.
Christophe Claret