74 BEHIND THE SCENES europa star previously in real trouble, however the ranching of the Nile crocodile is of great importance, especially in places like Zimbabwe and is the origin of many skins or products coming into Switzerland. The skin is also considered extremely valuable. The GTE and the FH take a stand Following the broadcast of the Rundschau film, the Geneva Time Exhibition (GTE - show of 60 watch brands held from January 16th to 21st in Geneva) and the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry (FH) have been encouraging their respective members to acknowledge the situation and check the sources of their straps.“We sent a press release to all our partners and received positive echoes from the brands in return,” shares Florence Noël, Director of the GTE show. “Brands such as Pierre DeRoche only use Mississippi alligator, but shared with me that they would consider not using exotic animal skins if they couldn’t verify their source,” she continues. Some brands, such as Tempvs Compvtare, also exhibiting at the GTE show, have made a point from their inception never to use any animal products in their collections. Food for thought For those who saw the Swiss German television report (available on the Europa Star website), it is difficult not to be shocked by the sensational images that were broadcast. However, we must remain attentive to certain elements of the report. Firstly, the film switched back and forth from the Indonesian rural outlet to the shop windows of luxury watch brands without any proof that they were linked in any way. Secondly, the film shows the CITES permits for the skins as if to accuse the treaty of not controlling the animals’ wellbeing, without any apparent understanding that the CITES treaty is designed to ensure the sustainability of the species, being exported, and has no control over what happens within the borders of any country. Thirdly, each country, each nation, each culture, has a different relationship to animals. The rural relationship to animals is very different from that of many urban people – why else would Indonesians have been happy to let a film crew in if they were ashamed of what they were doing? Certain images showed animals moving after they had supposedly been killed. Many animals continue to move minutes after they are clinically dead (think of the chicken that continues running after it has had its head chopped off). And lastly, images showed snakes being hit over the head, which obviously appears barbaric on screen, but is actually one of the most humane ways to kill a snake rapidly. These are all facts that watch brands and their retailers should know, facts that they need to communicate to their customers correctly, facts that should make them proud of contributing to biodiversity conservation, but encourage them to be more attentive to a part of their business that could change the way we protect nature. “‘Business as usual’ won’t work anymore; the planet cannot support it and the people won’t allow it. I hope that good things will come out of this report and businesses will stand up and take action,” concludes Vasquez. What the watch industry can do to help The watch industry needs to inform itself about the provenance of its straps and the ways in which the animals were killed. If the watch brands take action and become more demanding, this will put pressure on those working in the skin trade, farms, ranches and governments to take initiatives to better protect animal wellbeing and the environment, like the great programmes that have been set up in Louisiana and Zimbabwe. There is no need for watch brands to stop using exotic animal skins, on the contrary, but if they do not start to pay attention to this important part of their business, there is a risk that it could turn around and bite them. For more information including the Swiss television report (in German and French) press releases from The Swatch Group, The FH, The GTE and The State of Louisiana (the world’s largest alligator farming/ranching industry) click on www.europastar.com. O
CONTACTS PROMOTE SUCCESS. MUNICH, 25 – 28 FEBRUARY 2011 Messe München GmbH Tel: (+49 89) 9 49 -1 13 98 info@inhorgenta.de www.inhorgenta.com For trade visitors only 38th International trade fair for jewellery, watches, design, gemstones and technology