22 MANUFACTURING europa star role is to assemble the first ten pieces of a new model. It is here that the protocols for assembly, lubrication and other operations are precisely defined. From here, we pass to the ateliers for assembly and encasing that employ nearly 40 people. Divided into small islands dedicated to one client or to a specific complication, each of these watchmakers is in charge of the complete realization of a watch.This task, on average, takes a full month. Next to these workshops are the ateliers for decoration and finishing: chamfering, satining, circular-graining, Côtes de Genève, polishing, and skeletonizing. There are also units devoted to after-sales service, to training and one called the Office of Watch Concepts that, until quite recently, was directed by Frédéric Garinaud, the last on our list of having struck out on his own. Cardinal value: reliability When asked what the specificities of Renaud & Papi are, Giulio Papi responds:“…in no particular order, being able to propose ideas and then make them happen; being intransigent when it comes to the quality of finishing and decoration; and making reliable watches.” He insists particularly on this point: “We aim for zero returns, but let’s face it, to arrive at this point would be like finding the Grail. That has never happened to any watchmaker. In reality, we have about 10 per cent of new pieces come back and about 3 per cent returned after the models are stabilized, a number that we can still be very proud of.We make reliability a point of honour. It is a cardinal value in watchmaking. So, we never introduce a product that is not 100 per cent ready. We never sell anything based on images.” What therefore does Renaud & Papi sell? “In the realm of calibres,” explains Giulio Papi, “we have three different regulating organs: thus three escapements—one traditional Swiss in-line palettes, a Swiss palettes for tourbillon and one that needs no lubrication, the famous Robin escapement reserved for Audemars Piguet, that we currently produce only in an artisanal manner. It is thus expensive but we could produce it on an industrial scale. These escapements are equipped with three different balances, with two different speeds, 21,600 vibrations/hour or 43,200 vibrations/hour. Moreover, we have two systems for energy accumulation, with one or two barrels, for power reserves of 48 hours, 72 hours, or ten days. We have a common winding system and time correction in all our watches, except for Chanel’s Rétrograde Mystérieuse, but that is another story (for this watch, see our Cover Story in this issue on Chanel). In terms of complete movements, we propose two different minute repeaters—one small, one large—two different integrated chronographs, a flyback, a grand sonnerie, and three perpetual calendars. And, using these bases, we offer all sorts of variants.” We might add also that Renaud & Papi has made a name for itself with Richard Mille in the particular domain of ultra-light materials. We think notably of the latest RM 027, the ‘Nadal’, a tourbillon watch realized in a very special carbon and that weighs only about 20 grammes. “A victory”, in the words of Giulio Papi, “because the perception of value had been up to now always tied to weight—the heavier it is, the more expensive the piece. We have succeeded in reversing this axiom”. This experience was acquired with Audemars Piguet and its famous Royal Oak in forged carbon. But Giulio Papi, as fascinated as he is with new materials, remains very cautious, however, when it comes to silicon. “I am not criticizing the technology itself but all our escapements are made in traditional materials. Why? We know that in time silicon will no longer be used in micro-processors and that the equipment designed to work with this material will disappear. These are the same machines used in watchmaking. I am afraid that in 50 to 100 years, we will no longer be able to repair silicon escapements.” How has the company weathered the economic crisis? “Since 2008, which was a record year, our turnover has varied only very little. For 2010, we expected a decrease of five per cent but we ended the year even. For 2011, we are also expecting a five per cent decline, but we will see what happens… It is not so serious for us since all our installations are financed and we have no current leases.” CHRISTOPHE CLARET’S, (NEARLY) COMPLETE MANUFACTURE The great strength of Christophe Claret is to have succeeded, in 22 years of independent activity, in constructing a very high-end integrated production tool, worthy of the very sophisticated products that the company creates to the level of 90 per cent in-house. Of the 115 people who work there, some 40 are certified watchmakers who produce a very small number of watches—around 420 to 450 per year.The simplest and least expensive is CHF 35,000, while the most expensive reaches around CHF 120,000 (ex-factory price, so multiply that by four, five, six or even seven, depending on the brand!). Besides his undeniable talents as a watch designer, the power of Christophe Claret is that he excels as much in the design and production of his own movements as he does in the cases. Christophe Claret
A RACING MACHINE ON THE WRIST www.richardmille.com RM 022 “AERODYNE” DUAL TIME ZONE Baseplate of honeycombed orthorhombic titanium aluminide / carbon nanofiber Power reserver : circa 70 hours dual time zone indicator Torque indicator Power reserve indicator Function selector Variable inertia, free sprung balance Fast rotating barrel (6 hours per revolution instead of 7,5 hours) Winding barrel teeth and third-wheel pinion with central involute profile Barrel pawl with progressive recoil Modular time setting mechanism fitted against the case back Free sprung balance with overcoil Wheel based time setting system (back of the movement) Closure of the barrel cover by excentric screws Ceramic endstone for the tourbillon cage Central bridge in rigidified ARCAP Spline screws in grade 5 titanium for the bridges and case From 368 000
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