1917 Cadillac - GM Heritage Center

93 ADJUSTMENTS
If the average repairman undertakes to heat a piece and re-temper it,
he is quite apt to leave it in an annealed condition. This makes it soft and
weak. Or he gets it too hard. This makes it brittle, with the possibility of
its breaking very easily in service.
If a part is straightened without heating, it usually results in weakening
the part unless it was bent but very little from its original shape.
The Cadillac Motor Car Company cannot assume any responsibility for
the action of any part of its cars that may have been heated for straightening
or straightened cold after its cars have left the factory.
TO REMOVE SPEEDOMETER DRIVE IN RIGHT HAND
SPINDLE
The flexible shaft to the speedometer is driven from the hub on the
right hand front wheel through the driver "A," Fig. 52, the shaft "B" and the
gears "C" and "E."
Fig. 52. Front Right Spindle and
Speedometer Driving Gears.
To remove these parts from
the spindle, proceed as follows:
Remove hub cap from
wheel.
Pull out driver "A."
the_
Unscrew nut "D" and remove.
The gear "E" and the shaft
to which it is attached will come
out with the nut "D."
Remove the cotter pin "G."
Remove the cap "F."
The gear "C" may then be re-
moved.
The parts may be assembled
in the reverse order.
ALIGNMENT OF FRONT WHEELS
The ideal condition is to have the front wheels parallel to each other
on horizontal lines passing diametrically through their centers. Under no
condition should the wheels toe out. It is permissible to have them toe in,
providing they do not toe in more than Y% of an inch in the diameter of the
wheel. (See "Result of Faulty Alignment of Front Wheels," page 98.)
TO ALIGN FRONT WHEELS
Jack up the front axle until both wheels are clear of the floor and true
up the demountable rims. (See under "To Mount Rim," page 94.)
Move the steering wheel to bring the left front wheel "A," Fig. 53, parallel
with the frame "B." This may be determined by taking measurements "C"
from the rim of the wheel to the frame.
Tie a string to a rear spoke of each front wheel directly back of the
center of the wheel. Carry the strings inward between the spokes, back
around the tires and then forward to points "D" as shown. Use strings that
will extend exactly twelve feet in front of the tires. Bring the strings in
until they just touch the forward edges of the tires at "E." The strings must
be slightly above or below the hubs so as to clear them.
ADJUSTMENTS 93
If the wheels are parallel, the distances "F" and "G" between the strings
will be the same at points just ahead of the tires and at points at the ends
of the strings.
Under no condition should the wheels toe in more than enough to allow
the twelve foot strings to converge more than 1½ inches, that is, so that
dimension "G" is not more than 1½ inches less than dimension "F."
Fig. 53.
12 FT.
Diagram Showing Method for Aligning Front Wheels.
Adjustment is provided in the parallel rod for aligning the front wheels.
If adjustment is necessary and the left front wheel is disturbed, care_ should
be taken to have this wheel parallel with the frame before readjusting the
strings and taking measurements "F" and "G."
The front wheels camber about V/i inches, that is, the measurement between
the wheels at the top should be approximately V/2 inches greater than
the corresponding measurement diametrically opposite at the bottom of the
wheels.
DEMOUNTABLE RIMS
TO REMOVE AND REPLACE RIM WITH TIRE
TO DEMOUNT RIM
Jack up the axle until the wheel is free
from the ground. Then remove the valve
cap; loosen the eight clamp nuts, with
the brace wrench furnished with the tool
kit, and turn each clamp to the left until
it strikes the stop pin in the felloe band.
Turn the wheel so that the valve is at
the top and pull the bottom of the rim
towards you until it clears the wheel.
The rim with tire can then be removed
by lifting it straight up. (Figure 54.)
Demounting
Fig. 54.
Rim from Wheel,