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5<br />
It sounds like magic but when a wheel rolls these<br />
beads orient themselves inside the tire to counter<br />
imbalance. Unseat the bead and drop the beads into<br />
a tubeless tire or use supplied bottles to feed them<br />
into a tube’s valve-stem hole. Innovative Balancing’s<br />
ceramic Dynabeads may outlast the car they’re in.<br />
This type of balancing has<br />
shortcomings: it balances only<br />
statically so it’s most suitable for<br />
narrow wheels. And it requires<br />
that all parts index so they go<br />
back together the exact way every<br />
time. But the worst shortcoming is<br />
availability; the machines and their<br />
operators got rare a long time ago.<br />
But balancing beads eliminate<br />
all but one of those shortcomings.<br />
They’re just tiny balls (usually<br />
ceramic) that freely roll around<br />
inside the tire or, if equipped,<br />
tube. As the tire spins it generates<br />
centripetal force that holds the beads<br />
along the inside of the tire or tube.<br />
Ultimately the beads gather at the<br />
point opposite the imbalance until<br />
they amass enough weight to offset<br />
it. At that point the wheel rolls true<br />
and the spare beads just distribute<br />
themselves equally along the inside<br />
of the tire. When the vehicle comes<br />
to a stop they all come crashing back<br />
down to the bottom.<br />
Like on-car balancers they affect<br />
only a static balance; however, they’re<br />
available everywhere (mail order),<br />
don’t cost much, transfer to new tires,<br />
and constantly correct imbalances<br />
over the life of the tire.<br />
STRAIGHTNESS<br />
No amount of balancing will<br />
matter if a wheel rolls like an egg.<br />
Chris Sage at The Wheelsmith noted<br />
a few things that prevent a wheel<br />
from rolling true. “It’s a good idea<br />
to check all wheels, and especially<br />
old ones, for runout,” he begins. “I<br />
like to build wheels with no more<br />
6<br />
A dial indicator should be part of every<br />
enthusiast’s toolbox. Run it against the side of<br />
the bead to measure lateral runout and against<br />
the inside diameter of the bead to measure<br />
radial runout.<br />
7<br />
Because it’s so close to the centerline a hub or<br />
axle flange bent even a tiny bit will make a<br />
wheel wobble like mad. For this reason most<br />
vocational manuals recommend 0.005-inch<br />
maximum runout.<br />
than 0.015-inch radial and lateral<br />
runout but that’s so we know a<br />
wheel won’t ever be the cause of<br />
any problems.” He even noted that<br />
a wheel with 0.030-inch runout will<br />
likely work just fine. “Until the ’70s<br />
or ’80s the OEMs considered 0.055-<br />
inch runout acceptable.”<br />
Because most wheels center<br />
on the lug nuts on older cars he<br />
recommends seating nuts by hand<br />
before tightening them. “Tire<br />
stores have gotten really bad about<br />
this,” he cautions. “A kid with an<br />
impact can jam the lug nut on<br />
before the lug seats have a chance<br />
to line up.” The consequences<br />
should be obvious.<br />
And some of us are responsible<br />
for a potentially ill fit. It’s popular<br />
to mount Buick drums to old<br />
Fords. However, early Ford disc<br />
wheels with the 5.5-inch pattern<br />
(and some of their reproductions)<br />
mount over a larger diameter<br />
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