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Rod & Custom

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5<br />

It sounds like magic but when a wheel rolls these<br />

beads orient themselves inside the tire to counter<br />

imbalance. Unseat the bead and drop the beads into<br />

a tubeless tire or use supplied bottles to feed them<br />

into a tube’s valve-stem hole. Innovative Balancing’s<br />

ceramic Dynabeads may outlast the car they’re in.<br />

This type of balancing has<br />

shortcomings: it balances only<br />

statically so it’s most suitable for<br />

narrow wheels. And it requires<br />

that all parts index so they go<br />

back together the exact way every<br />

time. But the worst shortcoming is<br />

availability; the machines and their<br />

operators got rare a long time ago.<br />

But balancing beads eliminate<br />

all but one of those shortcomings.<br />

They’re just tiny balls (usually<br />

ceramic) that freely roll around<br />

inside the tire or, if equipped,<br />

tube. As the tire spins it generates<br />

centripetal force that holds the beads<br />

along the inside of the tire or tube.<br />

Ultimately the beads gather at the<br />

point opposite the imbalance until<br />

they amass enough weight to offset<br />

it. At that point the wheel rolls true<br />

and the spare beads just distribute<br />

themselves equally along the inside<br />

of the tire. When the vehicle comes<br />

to a stop they all come crashing back<br />

down to the bottom.<br />

Like on-car balancers they affect<br />

only a static balance; however, they’re<br />

available everywhere (mail order),<br />

don’t cost much, transfer to new tires,<br />

and constantly correct imbalances<br />

over the life of the tire.<br />

STRAIGHTNESS<br />

No amount of balancing will<br />

matter if a wheel rolls like an egg.<br />

Chris Sage at The Wheelsmith noted<br />

a few things that prevent a wheel<br />

from rolling true. “It’s a good idea<br />

to check all wheels, and especially<br />

old ones, for runout,” he begins. “I<br />

like to build wheels with no more<br />

6<br />

A dial indicator should be part of every<br />

enthusiast’s toolbox. Run it against the side of<br />

the bead to measure lateral runout and against<br />

the inside diameter of the bead to measure<br />

radial runout.<br />

7<br />

Because it’s so close to the centerline a hub or<br />

axle flange bent even a tiny bit will make a<br />

wheel wobble like mad. For this reason most<br />

vocational manuals recommend 0.005-inch<br />

maximum runout.<br />

than 0.015-inch radial and lateral<br />

runout but that’s so we know a<br />

wheel won’t ever be the cause of<br />

any problems.” He even noted that<br />

a wheel with 0.030-inch runout will<br />

likely work just fine. “Until the ’70s<br />

or ’80s the OEMs considered 0.055-<br />

inch runout acceptable.”<br />

Because most wheels center<br />

on the lug nuts on older cars he<br />

recommends seating nuts by hand<br />

before tightening them. “Tire<br />

stores have gotten really bad about<br />

this,” he cautions. “A kid with an<br />

impact can jam the lug nut on<br />

before the lug seats have a chance<br />

to line up.” The consequences<br />

should be obvious.<br />

And some of us are responsible<br />

for a potentially ill fit. It’s popular<br />

to mount Buick drums to old<br />

Fords. However, early Ford disc<br />

wheels with the 5.5-inch pattern<br />

(and some of their reproductions)<br />

mount over a larger diameter<br />

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Dick Clemmer<br />

Dick’s Hot <strong>Rod</strong> Shop<br />

August 2014t30%$6450.55

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