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cutting diagram 3-ft bookcase

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Upper sash may be<br />

painted shut.<br />

Set all the strips,<br />

like this one at<br />

the bottom of the<br />

lower sash, with the<br />

open side of the "ll"<br />

poirting to the outside.<br />

Strips for the inner sash stop<br />

halfway up. To fit the upper<br />

sash, pull it down. Bend both<br />

strips open for a tigltt fit.<br />

Insld edge<br />

of upper<br />

Placing a strip along the inner<br />

edge of the base of the upper<br />

sash makes a big difference.<br />

This is a common leak location.<br />

Stop Dra<strong>ft</strong>s by Sealing<br />

Around Doors and Windows<br />

That cool breeze in the air is a sure sign winter's<br />

coming.And if your house is like most, some of<br />

that chill is making its way inside.That's because<br />

every house - old or new - h full ofnooks<br />

and crannies where air can leak in or out. So<br />

now's the time to seal up the leaks. But with all<br />

those nooks and crannies. where should you start?<br />

A 20% SOrtmoN<br />

Most experts agree that one of the most time- and<br />

cost-effective things a homeowner can do is<br />

weatherstrip around doors and windows. Gaps<br />

around them account for about 20o/o of atr leakage.<br />

Adhesive-backed foam and vinyl are tempting<br />

since they are cheap and quick to install,<br />

but they wear quickly. For a permanent fix, I<br />

prefer spring-metal "V" strips made of bronze.<br />

This stuff has been around for years, and it lasts<br />

for years, too. In my area, a I7-foot roll (easily<br />

enough for one window) costs less than $6.<br />

The way the strips work is sin-rple.They get<br />

nailed into the door or window frame, with the<br />

open edge of the "V" pointirrg toward the<br />

outside (see the drawings at le<strong>ft</strong>).The bronze is<br />

flexible, so when the window or door closes<br />

against it, the sides of the "V" push out to fill the<br />

gap, stopping air from coming through.<br />

Check for laps between<br />

_door and frame._<br />

FTN]<br />

|"llI'fl<br />

L_lll L-_lt<br />

F t,<br />

lt<br />

Replace the thrcshold<br />

seal if it's worn, or add<br />

a new threshold.<br />

Skipping hinges and strike<br />

plates lets some air in, but<br />

allows access for rcpairc.<br />

ll *.,.,,,"<br />

ffiIono'rtion of<br />

threshold<br />

Cut "V" strlp<br />

aroundoor<br />

hlnges.<br />

Mount door<br />

sweep on<br />

inslde face<br />

of door.<br />

The base of an exlerior door<br />

is a big source of air leakage.<br />

But a simple sweep (around<br />

$5-$101 will stop most of it.<br />

SEALIITG WINDOWS<br />

Before applying the strips, lightly sand dowr.r any<br />

bumps or rough spots in the window tracks.This<br />

helps the strips sit flat.<br />

As shown in the top drawing, the strips don't<br />

need to extend the full length of the frame.Just<br />

cut two strips the sar.ne length as the sash height.<br />

Then raise the lower sash as high as possible and<br />

push the strips into place. Now nail down the<br />

strips and gently pry the "V" open. Also place a<br />

strip on the bottom of the lower sash.<br />

Provided that the upper sash isn't painted<br />

closed, put strips along its sides as well. One strip<br />

between upper and lower sash completes the job.<br />

AROUND IHE INOR<br />

Adding "V" strip around a door is even easier.Just<br />

cut lengths to fit along the sides and top of the<br />

door, skipping over the hinges and strike plates.<br />

At the bottom of the door check the condition<br />

of the threshold seal (or,ver le<strong>ft</strong>).You can pick up a<br />

new seal for around $3, then just slip it in place. If<br />

your threshold doesnt have a seal, consider covering<br />

it with an adjustable replacement threshold. In<br />

either case, a sweep (near le<strong>ft</strong>) also helps.<br />

32<br />

woRKBENcH tr NovEMBEll I<br />

DECEMBER 2000

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