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Upper sash may be<br />
painted shut.<br />
Set all the strips,<br />
like this one at<br />
the bottom of the<br />
lower sash, with the<br />
open side of the "ll"<br />
poirting to the outside.<br />
Strips for the inner sash stop<br />
halfway up. To fit the upper<br />
sash, pull it down. Bend both<br />
strips open for a tigltt fit.<br />
Insld edge<br />
of upper<br />
Placing a strip along the inner<br />
edge of the base of the upper<br />
sash makes a big difference.<br />
This is a common leak location.<br />
Stop Dra<strong>ft</strong>s by Sealing<br />
Around Doors and Windows<br />
That cool breeze in the air is a sure sign winter's<br />
coming.And if your house is like most, some of<br />
that chill is making its way inside.That's because<br />
every house - old or new - h full ofnooks<br />
and crannies where air can leak in or out. So<br />
now's the time to seal up the leaks. But with all<br />
those nooks and crannies. where should you start?<br />
A 20% SOrtmoN<br />
Most experts agree that one of the most time- and<br />
cost-effective things a homeowner can do is<br />
weatherstrip around doors and windows. Gaps<br />
around them account for about 20o/o of atr leakage.<br />
Adhesive-backed foam and vinyl are tempting<br />
since they are cheap and quick to install,<br />
but they wear quickly. For a permanent fix, I<br />
prefer spring-metal "V" strips made of bronze.<br />
This stuff has been around for years, and it lasts<br />
for years, too. In my area, a I7-foot roll (easily<br />
enough for one window) costs less than $6.<br />
The way the strips work is sin-rple.They get<br />
nailed into the door or window frame, with the<br />
open edge of the "V" pointirrg toward the<br />
outside (see the drawings at le<strong>ft</strong>).The bronze is<br />
flexible, so when the window or door closes<br />
against it, the sides of the "V" push out to fill the<br />
gap, stopping air from coming through.<br />
Check for laps between<br />
_door and frame._<br />
FTN]<br />
|"llI'fl<br />
L_lll L-_lt<br />
F t,<br />
lt<br />
Replace the thrcshold<br />
seal if it's worn, or add<br />
a new threshold.<br />
Skipping hinges and strike<br />
plates lets some air in, but<br />
allows access for rcpairc.<br />
ll *.,.,,,"<br />
ffiIono'rtion of<br />
threshold<br />
Cut "V" strlp<br />
aroundoor<br />
hlnges.<br />
Mount door<br />
sweep on<br />
inslde face<br />
of door.<br />
The base of an exlerior door<br />
is a big source of air leakage.<br />
But a simple sweep (around<br />
$5-$101 will stop most of it.<br />
SEALIITG WINDOWS<br />
Before applying the strips, lightly sand dowr.r any<br />
bumps or rough spots in the window tracks.This<br />
helps the strips sit flat.<br />
As shown in the top drawing, the strips don't<br />
need to extend the full length of the frame.Just<br />
cut two strips the sar.ne length as the sash height.<br />
Then raise the lower sash as high as possible and<br />
push the strips into place. Now nail down the<br />
strips and gently pry the "V" open. Also place a<br />
strip on the bottom of the lower sash.<br />
Provided that the upper sash isn't painted<br />
closed, put strips along its sides as well. One strip<br />
between upper and lower sash completes the job.<br />
AROUND IHE INOR<br />
Adding "V" strip around a door is even easier.Just<br />
cut lengths to fit along the sides and top of the<br />
door, skipping over the hinges and strike plates.<br />
At the bottom of the door check the condition<br />
of the threshold seal (or,ver le<strong>ft</strong>).You can pick up a<br />
new seal for around $3, then just slip it in place. If<br />
your threshold doesnt have a seal, consider covering<br />
it with an adjustable replacement threshold. In<br />
either case, a sweep (near le<strong>ft</strong>) also helps.<br />
32<br />
woRKBENcH tr NovEMBEll I<br />
DECEMBER 2000