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cutting diagram 3-ft bookcase

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hold the base to the floor.You'll also<br />

have to extend a hole through the<br />

floor for the weight cord.<br />

GREATE IIIE OOtUiIl{S<br />

The columns (G) are cutfrorr,Za"-lD<br />

rigid copper plumbing pipe. I advise<br />

using a pipe cutter. It cuts square and<br />

smooth, meaning theret no need to<br />

sand or file the ends.<br />

'With the columns cut, it's time<br />

BAiE AiSEMBLY<br />

Note: Floor and roof<br />

banding are made<br />

from 2"-11;s1 r1o.*.<br />

Top<br />

Feeder top<br />

3/a" xl0"<br />

Carrlage<br />

bolt<br />

to assemble the base. First, slip four<br />

carriage bolts through the holes in<br />

the feeder top.Then place this setup<br />

upside down on your bench.<br />

Next, slide the copper columns<br />

on the bolts and seat them in the<br />

counterbores in the feeder top.Then<br />

slide the floor in place and slip a<br />

washer, lock washer, and nut on<br />

each bolt (detail a at right). As you<br />

tighten the nuts, make sure the<br />

assembly stays square.<br />

Floor<br />

BeYel edges<br />

Note: Use /z" exterlorgrade<br />

plywood for the<br />

feeder floor and top.<br />

lock<br />

ADD IHE BAI{DII{G<br />

Now that the main part of the<br />

feeder base is together, itt time to<br />

add some cedar edge banding (see<br />

b and c in the Base Assembly).The<br />

banding is made from rZ"-thick<br />

First, rip four 2"-wide x 30"-long<br />

strips from your t/:"-thick stock.<br />

Next, rik rhe saw blade to 23o<br />

and bevel both edges of two strips,<br />

leaving the pieces 1%"-wide. To<br />

make the top banding, bevel one<br />

edge of each of the two remaining<br />

cedar, which you can plane down or<br />

resaw from 1x or 2x stock.<br />

The floor banding (H) sticks up<br />

above the floor, preventing birdseed strips, so the pieces end up 1" wide.<br />

from spilling over the edges. It also Now miter each banding piece<br />

covers the pl1'wood edges and the to fit. When I do this, I miter each<br />

floor supports that get added later. piece to fit as I go around, as shown<br />

The top banding (I) simply hides in the drawing below.<br />

the plywood edges and echoes the Use the same process to add the<br />

look o<strong>ft</strong>he floor banding.<br />

top banding. But this rime, mount<br />

Making either the top or floor each piece so its square edge is flush<br />

banding starts off the same way. with the upper face of the Geder top.<br />

INSTATTING THE BANDING<br />

nall each plece<br />

Into place<br />

Start by mlterlng<br />

one end of an<br />

extr&long plece.<br />

Mark Inslde<br />

of mlter. then<br />

sneak up on<br />

the exact<br />

12"<br />

f__<br />

TIIP DETAIL<br />

@ . l"<br />

_+rA,_f;;;;|l<br />

7/s"4la. bore<br />

1/g" deep<br />

H.|nN DETAIT<br />

12',___l<br />

@ | i" @<br />

o4tt.lo<br />

I r_."_<br />

@ ,----7<br />

Drlll and countelslnk<br />

#8 x 17+" screws<br />

to attach roof.<br />

s/g"4la.<br />

through<br />

hole<br />

Drlll and<br />

counterslnk<br />

for #8<br />

\tf<br />

1/e"4la.)<br />

hofe s/s,,41a. hole<br />

o .tatng/<br />

@ norc/ @<br />

7/e"41a.borc<br />

1/a" ileep<br />

woRKBENcH tr NovEMBER I DEcEMBER 2000<br />

'i<br />

1;\ o I tube llo<br />

fi F -11<br />

'-T<br />

372"<br />

\-<br />

^ - in i"<br />

Ve"4la/<br />

I I Yent hole<br />

@<br />

3/e" througlh<br />

67

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