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cutting diagram 3-ft bookcase

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7/g"41a.<br />

Forstner<br />

bit.<br />

Size opening so feed tube<br />

fits with about %0" play<br />

Mark feed tube<br />

outllne on cap.<br />

-5<br />

-\ \r -\-<br />

@<br />

\<br />

GAPPING IT OFF<br />

Making the feed tube cap (M) is one<br />

of the easiest parts of this project. It's<br />

just a cap for a 4x4 post.<br />

The one I bought from a local<br />

home center is 5"-square, with a<br />

pyramid-shaped copper cap.The flat<br />

bottom on the cap means it has to<br />

be hollowed out to fit over the feed<br />

tube, as you can see above.<br />

The home center I visited also<br />

had post caps with moldings applied<br />

around the bottom. These create a<br />

recess so the cap will slip over a 4x4<br />

post. But the mitered corners on<br />

these moldings were pretry lousy. If<br />

this is the only rype caP You can<br />

find, simply remove the moldings<br />

and recess the underside o<strong>ft</strong>he cap.<br />

Making the recess isn't tough.To<br />

start, slip the feed tube into the<br />

feeder and measure how far it sticks<br />

above the roof. [n my case, this was<br />

about /2".<br />

\ Depth equals distance.-<br />

J; tube sticks<br />

abovg roof.<br />

- ----<br />

Now<br />

you can lnark the recess<br />

area on the bottorl underside of the<br />

cap.The cap's copper pyranrid should<br />

come o{1, allowing you to lay the cap<br />

upside down on your bench. Place<br />

the feed tube on the cap to make sure<br />

the cap overhangs the tube evenly on<br />

all sides.Then trace the tube'.s outline.<br />

Now drill out the bulk of the<br />

area inside the layout lines trsing e<br />

Forstner btt (Fig. 9). This lets you<br />

drill overlapping holes. Then clean<br />

up the edges with a chisel (Fig. 10).<br />

To complete the feed tube caP,<br />

mount a small screw eye in the<br />

recess.This will hold a string tied to<br />

a weight that rides inside the<br />

mounting post. See the photo and<br />

margin drawing on the next page.<br />

SUPPORT THE FLOOR<br />

To hold the Geder in place on the<br />

mounting post, there are four suPports<br />

under the floor.You can t]lake<br />

them from lx stock, or again plar-re or<br />

resaw stock frorn a piece of2x cedar.<br />

Once you've got stock that's t/0"<br />

thick, go ahead and cut four floor<br />

supports (N) to size as shown in<br />

Use a chisel to<br />

waste and square up ed$es.<br />

Figure 11. Using a jigsaw nakes<br />

quick work of the angled cuts.<br />

The four supports need to fit<br />

tight around the mounting post. To<br />

determine tl-reir positions, start with<br />

a short (3") length of the coPPer<br />

pipe. Then position the suPPorts<br />

snug against the short post sectiolt<br />

(Fig 12). Putting double-sided carpet<br />

tape on the suPPorts holds them<br />

in place while you flip the feeder<br />

over arrd drive in the rrrotrnting<br />

screws, as shown in Fi,4trc 13.<br />

ADD THE FINISH<br />

llefore doir-rg the final assenrbly, it's a<br />

good idea to protect all the wood<br />

surfaces with a few coats of finish. I<br />

used an exterior varnish made bY<br />

Olympic. Spar varnish would be a<br />

good choice, too.Just be sure to use<br />

a finish with ultraviolet inhibitors to<br />

keep the cedar looking its best.<br />

And I mean cort all the wood<br />

surfaces.That includes the underside<br />

of both the floor and roof. These<br />

surfaces wort't cvcr see rrin, but<br />

they'll still be affected by changes in<br />

moisture and temperature.<br />

,r""-7-1tr<br />

#8 x l1/2" Fh screws<br />

70<br />

woRKBENCH tr NovEMBER I DEcEMBER 2000

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