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The Chaliphate - Muir - The Search For Mecca

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;<br />

92 'OMAR [cirAP. XIII.<br />

A.H. 13-14.<br />

privileges and aped the luxurious habits, without the chivalry<br />

or manliness, of the Roman citizen. It was altogether a<br />

civilisation of forced, and of exotic, growth. No sooner was<br />

the western prop removed than the people returned to their<br />

Bedawi life, true sons of the desert ; the chariot and waggon<br />

were banished for the camel ; and nothing left of Roman<br />

rule but columns and peristyles, causeways and aqueducts,<br />

great masses of ruined masonry,—which still startle the<br />

traveller as if belonging to another world. But, at the time<br />

we write of, the age of so-called civilisation was still dominant<br />

there. Such was the beautiful country, strange to the<br />

southern Arab both in natural feature and busy urban life,<br />

which was now traversed by the invading armies, and soon<br />

became the beaten highway between Syria and the Muslim<br />

shrines.<br />

Byzantine <strong>The</strong> course of MusHm victory in Syria advanced with<br />

faint'in Syria<br />

^^^tlc let or hindrance. Persia's struggle was not for a limb,<br />

but for life itself. Here it was otherwise. Syria, indeed,<br />

contained the Holy Places, and what was dear to the Greeks<br />

as the cradle of their faith. But after all, it was, though fair<br />

and sacred, but an outlying province of which a supine and<br />

selfish Court could without vital injury afford the loss.<br />

<strong>The</strong>re were no such mortal throes in Syria as on the plains<br />

of Chaldeea.<br />

Damascus. Damascus, the most ancient city in the world, has, ever<br />

since the days of Abraham, survived through all vicissitudes,<br />

the Capital of Syria. <strong>The</strong> great plain on which it stands<br />

is watered by streams issuing from adjoining mountain<br />

ranges ; and the beautiful groves and rich meadows around<br />

have named it (with more reason than the Chaldsean delta)<br />

the "Garden of the world." An entrepot of commerce<br />

between the east and west, it has been from age to age with<br />

varying fortune, ever rich and populous. <strong>The</strong> city wall,<br />

twenty feet high and fifteen broad, still contains stones of<br />

Cyclopean size that must have been builded in ages before<br />

our era. Over the gates and elsewhere there are turrets<br />

for defence, all of venerable structure. <strong>The</strong> traveller entering<br />

at the eastern gate may even in the present day pass through<br />

the narrow "street which is called Straight," as did St Paul<br />

1800 years ago. <strong>The</strong> Cathedral of St John the Baptist still<br />

rears its great Dome, towering above all other buildings

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