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36<br />

latin – on the traCk of the<br />

ClassiCs in the gUlf of naples<br />

The young couple se-<br />

parates to let the group<br />

pass, their eyes following<br />

the energetic backs as they<br />

clamber up the hillside. Winding<br />

steeply across stony,<br />

rock-strewn ground, the track<br />

narrows until it is almost lost<br />

in the towering scrub. But<br />

UW’s classicists press on<br />

undaunted to their goal, Capo<br />

Miseno. Their effort is well<br />

rewarded: beneath them lies<br />

the magnificent panorama of<br />

the Gulf of Naples, stretching<br />

from the metropolis at the<br />

foot of Vesuvius to the island<br />

of Capri. It must have been<br />

here – from here the Roman<br />

writer Pliny the Elder might<br />

well have watched the devastating<br />

eruption of Vesuvius in<br />

79 CE.<br />

Classical literature and culture<br />

Two letters of Pliny, in which<br />

he describes the event in im-<br />

pressive detail, have led the<br />

group to this spot. Two days<br />

by bus to experience Roman<br />

literature where it was written:<br />

that was the point of<br />

a two-week excursion that<br />

took 33 UW students of Latin,<br />

along with four of their<br />

teachers, from <strong>Wuppertal</strong> to<br />

the Gulf of Naples – a good<br />

third of UW’s Latinists eager<br />

to see the surroundings in<br />

which Vergil, Seneca, Tacitus<br />

and Propertius wrote, and the<br />

places they described.<br />

Since 2008 it has been possible<br />

to take a combined degree<br />

in Latin at UW. The subject<br />

enjoys a growing popularity<br />

especially in view of the acute<br />

shortage of Latin teachers.<br />

The Gulf of Naples seemed a<br />

particularly attractive destination<br />

for the first major departmental<br />

excursion: scarcely<br />

a writer of classical Roman<br />

literature who did not leave<br />

some memory of the region<br />

behind.<br />

FroM PeriLs oF LoVe to<br />

MAtriCide<br />

Ecquid tE mEdiis cEssan-<br />

tEm, cynthia, Baiis,<br />

qua iacEt hErculEs sE-<br />

mita litoriBus?<br />

do you tHinK oF Me, Cyn-<br />

tHiA, reLAxinG in bAiAe,<br />

WHere HerCuLes’ PAtH<br />

stretCHes ALonG tHe<br />

sHore?<br />

Propertius, Elegies<br />

Thus Pliny was on Cape Mise-<br />

num. Cicero and Caesar before<br />

him holidayed in the coastal<br />

resort of Baiae, the playground<br />

of the rich, criticized<br />

for its ostentatious luxury by<br />

the philosopher Seneca. Here<br />

the poet Propertius feared<br />

his beloved might fall prey<br />

to amorous adventure; here,<br />

too, Nero murdered his mo-<br />

ther, Agrippina – a story told<br />

by Tacitus who, along with his<br />

fellow historian Suetonius, also<br />

reports the bizarre goingson<br />

at the Emperor Tiberius’<br />

summer place on Capri. Virgil<br />

has his hero Aeneas land at<br />

Cumae where, after inquiring<br />

of the sibyl, he descended into<br />

the underworld. He himself<br />

lived many years in Naples<br />

and was buried there. Naples<br />

is also the birthplace of the<br />

poet Statius, who describes<br />

not only the new highway to<br />

the Gulf built by the Emperor<br />

Domitian, but also a villa near<br />

Sorrento whose remains are<br />

still visible today.<br />

mantua mE gEnuit, cala-<br />

Bri rapuErE, tEnEt nunc<br />

parthEnopE; cEcini pas-<br />

cua, rura, ducEs.<br />

MAntuA bore Me, CALA-<br />

briA tore Me AWAy, nAP-<br />

Les noW HoLds Me.<br />

i sAnG oF sHePHerds,<br />

Heroes, rurAL WAys.<br />

Inscription on Virgil’s grave<br />

But that is not all. The UW<br />

classicists saw again and<br />

again why classical philology<br />

comprises both Latin and<br />

Greek. Naples (nea polis =<br />

new town) was founded by<br />

the Greeks, and the Greek colonies<br />

in Ischia and Cumae are<br />

older still. From here the Romans<br />

drew their (and our) alphabet.<br />

Paestum, some three<br />

hours by bus from Naples,<br />

has impressive Greek temples,<br />

and a little further on lies<br />

Velia (the ancient Elea), where<br />

Parmenides laid the foundations<br />

of western metaphysics.<br />

What drew the wealthy<br />

Romans and their poets to<br />

the Gulf of Naples, therefore,<br />

was also the proximity<br />

of Greek culture. Right into<br />

the Common Era the region<br />

was bilingual, and here in<br />

Naples, Sorrentum and Baiae,<br />

in Capri and around Vesuvius,<br />

the tales of the great writers<br />

of antiquity are set.<br />

hic vEr adsiduum atquE<br />

aliEnis mEnsiBus aEs-<br />

tas, Bis gravidaE pEcu-<br />

dEs, Bis pomis utilis ar-<br />

Bos.<br />

Here sPrinG endures,<br />

suMMer is seVerAL<br />

MontHs LonG, tWiCe tHe<br />

CAttLe GiVe birtH And<br />

tWiCe tHe tree Fruits.<br />

Virgil, Georgics<br />

our last stop – and now we<br />

are on our way home – is the<br />

village of Andes on the River<br />

Mincio. Here, within sight of<br />

Mantua, the poet Virgil was<br />

born. A stone on which he is<br />

said to have sat has, we are<br />

told, been removed to the<br />

museum. But a man on horse-<br />

back shows us the exact<br />

place on the dike where it, he<br />

assures us, once stood – but<br />

what a long way to come, he<br />

observes in wonderment (or<br />

admiration), to see a stone!<br />

Yet to have experienced the<br />

broad and fruitful plains of<br />

Lombardy where the poet<br />

was born, and the Gulf of<br />

Naples, unique in geography<br />

and history, where he spent<br />

his creative life, will surely<br />

provide new insight into his<br />

work, as well as a rich background<br />

against which the future<br />

teacher will be able to<br />

communicate it.<br />

Prof. Dr. Stefan Freund<br />

Faculty of Humanities<br />

Department of Classical Philology<br />

– Latin<br />

Tel. +49 (0)202 439-3215,<br />

-3217<br />

E-mail freund@uni-wuppertal.de<br />

k www.fba.uni-wuppertal.<br />

de/latein/<br />

37

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